Smith and Wesson serial number search
- Thread starter Driveout02
- Start date
ajbpsu: You have a .38 Safety Hammerless 4th Model, dating from between 1898 & 1907. Serial number range was 116003 to roughly 220000.
According to the Standard Catalog of S&W this gun in excellent to excellent+ condition was worth $400-$500 in 2006. I suggest you look on www.gunbroker.com , www.auctionarms.com , www.armsbid.com and www.gunsamerica.com to get a feel for current pricing.
According to the Standard Catalog of S&W this gun in excellent to excellent+ condition was worth $400-$500 in 2006. I suggest you look on www.gunbroker.com , www.auctionarms.com , www.armsbid.com and www.gunsamerica.com to get a feel for current pricing.
jgunter217
Inactive
Model 60 R188XXX
Inherited it.
Inherited it.
Dead-Nuts-Zero
New member
SN Search
Just found K-22, brought it home, couldn't resist, it was nice and an impulse buy that I will not regret.
SN is K 180xxx
I was told it has a custom spring, it is smooth and maybe 2-3 lb. pull
If this turns out to be an older gun (I am taking wild guess it's 80's vintage) where would I locate the original spring part number to make it original again?
Sure appreciate the service your providing, wish I could wait to get the book, but am goin crazy not knowing the mfg. era.
ALSO, will the S&W Catalog book give me details on the "K" as far as the series, 5 screws, .22 & 38 cal etc. and will it give the spring part number as well???
I was told by the owner that I could dry fire this K -22 rimfire. I did dryfire at time of purchase, but found S&W suggestion that rimfire's not be dryfired...any info on this? I have since placed empty brass in cyl to dryfire, is this ok to do? Just love this gun, can't wait to shoot it.
One last Q, is this book a refrence with charts, photos etc, or is it more a historical novel with some refrence data?
thanks many bunches for any help provided!
Just found K-22, brought it home, couldn't resist, it was nice and an impulse buy that I will not regret.
SN is K 180xxx
I was told it has a custom spring, it is smooth and maybe 2-3 lb. pull
If this turns out to be an older gun (I am taking wild guess it's 80's vintage) where would I locate the original spring part number to make it original again?
Sure appreciate the service your providing, wish I could wait to get the book, but am goin crazy not knowing the mfg. era.
ALSO, will the S&W Catalog book give me details on the "K" as far as the series, 5 screws, .22 & 38 cal etc. and will it give the spring part number as well???
I was told by the owner that I could dry fire this K -22 rimfire. I did dryfire at time of purchase, but found S&W suggestion that rimfire's not be dryfired...any info on this? I have since placed empty brass in cyl to dryfire, is this ok to do? Just love this gun, can't wait to shoot it.
One last Q, is this book a refrence with charts, photos etc, or is it more a historical novel with some refrence data?
thanks many bunches for any help provided!
jgunter217: Your model 60 was made between 1974 & 1977. Serial number range for that period was R100000to R190000.
Dead-Nuts-Zero: Your K22 dates to 1953, serial number range for that year was K175638 to K210095. The Standard catalog of S&W shows pictures of all major models, often with pictures of major engineering changes. There is short history and description of each model, a list of engineering changes by date, a list of special production runs and basic valuing information.
There are separate chapters on valuing, grips, serial number ranges, factory tools, factory boxes, advertising, manuals and factory other stuff. Pretty much ever answer given in this thread and the equivalent thread at www.thehighroad.org is from the SCSW.
Tom Servo: Is the number 955844 taken from the bottom of the grip? If so then your gun is a post war production, probably around 1947 (serial number S990184 was used in 1948, S811120 in 1945.) The actual victory model run ended at SV811832. The Arrow is a British or Commonwealth acceptance mark, which suggests it is a wartime gun, FTR means Factory Thorough Repair: It was re-arsenaled in 1955 at a Commonwealth service center, the MA prefix refers to the center, but I can't tell you which one it is.
The Commonwealth guns were usually in .38 S&W, not .38 special. The barrel should be marked .38 S&W CTG if this is a Commonwealth gun. After the war many were re-imported into the USA as surplus and the cylinders bored through to allow .38 special to chamber. These should only be fired with standard pressure loads as the chamber will be oversize for the case at the extractor end - .38 S&W used a wider case than the .38 special.
Dead-Nuts-Zero: Your K22 dates to 1953, serial number range for that year was K175638 to K210095. The Standard catalog of S&W shows pictures of all major models, often with pictures of major engineering changes. There is short history and description of each model, a list of engineering changes by date, a list of special production runs and basic valuing information.
There are separate chapters on valuing, grips, serial number ranges, factory tools, factory boxes, advertising, manuals and factory other stuff. Pretty much ever answer given in this thread and the equivalent thread at www.thehighroad.org is from the SCSW.
Tom Servo: Is the number 955844 taken from the bottom of the grip? If so then your gun is a post war production, probably around 1947 (serial number S990184 was used in 1948, S811120 in 1945.) The actual victory model run ended at SV811832. The Arrow is a British or Commonwealth acceptance mark, which suggests it is a wartime gun, FTR means Factory Thorough Repair: It was re-arsenaled in 1955 at a Commonwealth service center, the MA prefix refers to the center, but I can't tell you which one it is.
The Commonwealth guns were usually in .38 S&W, not .38 special. The barrel should be marked .38 S&W CTG if this is a Commonwealth gun. After the war many were re-imported into the USA as surplus and the cylinders bored through to allow .38 special to chamber. These should only be fired with standard pressure loads as the chamber will be oversize for the case at the extractor end - .38 S&W used a wider case than the .38 special.
Here's where it gets weird...there's no "S" prefix on any of the numbers. It's definitely a Victory, as it's parkerized, and the barrel isn't chopped. The numbers on the heel have matches on the rear face of the cylinder and on the bottom of the barrel.
I've got a guy who thinks it might be Canadian as well, based on some other numbers. Gotta check on that tomorrow, as I don't have the gun with me.
I figured it might have been a .38-200 or .38 S&W, but the gun reads, ".38 S&W Special" on both the barrel and on the left side of the frame under the cylinder latch. .38spl ammo sits tight in the cylinder.
I know my Smiths fairly well, but this one's an oddity.
Dead-Nuts-Zero
New member
K-22
Radagast
That was really nice of you to look this up for me. The piece has a custom grip that covers the screws, but was told it was a 5 screw so I knew it had some age on it. Don't know when the last of the 5 screws were produced.
It has pined barrel and recess cylinder, I expect they still make the recessed cylinders yet today in a .22 cal. I bought it from individual and was in poor lighting area, I could see it was in very good condition, but today looking at it in natural sunlight, it is in better condition than expected for a used gun. Now with knowing it's vintage (early 50's), is a bonus to me. Has no holster wear, not a speck of rust or even a slight ding anywhere, and no touchups that I can find. Bore was bright with crisp cut rifling.
I got to shoot it today, found some odd things. Maybe someone can help me out here???
First, I was shooting at steel about 25-30 yds, didn't have any paper to see where it shoots or how tight the shots, but it was impossible to make a strike without blotching out the steel chicken at that distance.
Went to adjust rear sight, there was no elevation play in the rear sight bar (like most of my guns) with no spring and click detents for elevation adjustment. Windage w/adjustment screw looks good.
Is this normal for this type of rear sight? This is my only adjustable Smith, all others have fixed sights so can't compare them.
Rear sight bar appears to be made without a spring(?)
Will this sight base flex if I were to turn the screw up or down? Looked to be all the way down so maybe can't do much to improve it.
Other thing I noticed, it was very difficult to eject the empty brass. Only because brass were very tight, no other problems within the ejecting system I can see. Works normal while empty. Used 3 brands of ammo in it, all ejected hard. Seemed like just the rims were over swelled. Could it be due to the recess cylinder and because it's like new condition with little breakin maybe???
And lastly, I purchased it with custom rubber wrap-around thin target grips installed (grips do not cause the ejecting problem), have original woods that are like new. No original box, tools or manual came with it. Did get B-Sq. clamp-on mount (replaces rear sight) and a very old looking red dot. I need to request a manual from Smith.
I dropped 400 big ones for it with the grips, mount and red-dot Curious of it's aprox. value. Probably worth 20% more today than a year ago with the Polosi Effect (she is the one really in charge ya know). :barf::barf::barf:
Whatever it's value, I am very pleased so far, that’s what really matters to me. Its much better quality than I expected.
I looked at auction sights prior to trip to see this one, they seem to be 400 plus but shown in many different variants. Do you think that 400 is within the ballpark for this piece?
I will try to get a book ordered soon so I won't keep beggin for info...it's just the excitement of finding an older piece in such great shape and that makes me very happy indeed!
Any comments from you Radagast, or anyone else is encouraged....thanks again for the original info you sent.
Radagast
That was really nice of you to look this up for me. The piece has a custom grip that covers the screws, but was told it was a 5 screw so I knew it had some age on it. Don't know when the last of the 5 screws were produced.
It has pined barrel and recess cylinder, I expect they still make the recessed cylinders yet today in a .22 cal. I bought it from individual and was in poor lighting area, I could see it was in very good condition, but today looking at it in natural sunlight, it is in better condition than expected for a used gun. Now with knowing it's vintage (early 50's), is a bonus to me. Has no holster wear, not a speck of rust or even a slight ding anywhere, and no touchups that I can find. Bore was bright with crisp cut rifling.
I got to shoot it today, found some odd things. Maybe someone can help me out here???
First, I was shooting at steel about 25-30 yds, didn't have any paper to see where it shoots or how tight the shots, but it was impossible to make a strike without blotching out the steel chicken at that distance.
Went to adjust rear sight, there was no elevation play in the rear sight bar (like most of my guns) with no spring and click detents for elevation adjustment. Windage w/adjustment screw looks good.
Is this normal for this type of rear sight? This is my only adjustable Smith, all others have fixed sights so can't compare them.
Rear sight bar appears to be made without a spring(?)
Will this sight base flex if I were to turn the screw up or down? Looked to be all the way down so maybe can't do much to improve it.
Other thing I noticed, it was very difficult to eject the empty brass. Only because brass were very tight, no other problems within the ejecting system I can see. Works normal while empty. Used 3 brands of ammo in it, all ejected hard. Seemed like just the rims were over swelled. Could it be due to the recess cylinder and because it's like new condition with little breakin maybe???
And lastly, I purchased it with custom rubber wrap-around thin target grips installed (grips do not cause the ejecting problem), have original woods that are like new. No original box, tools or manual came with it. Did get B-Sq. clamp-on mount (replaces rear sight) and a very old looking red dot. I need to request a manual from Smith.
I dropped 400 big ones for it with the grips, mount and red-dot Curious of it's aprox. value. Probably worth 20% more today than a year ago with the Polosi Effect (she is the one really in charge ya know). :barf::barf::barf:
Whatever it's value, I am very pleased so far, that’s what really matters to me. Its much better quality than I expected.
I looked at auction sights prior to trip to see this one, they seem to be 400 plus but shown in many different variants. Do you think that 400 is within the ballpark for this piece?
I will try to get a book ordered soon so I won't keep beggin for info...it's just the excitement of finding an older piece in such great shape and that makes me very happy indeed!
Any comments from you Radagast, or anyone else is encouraged....thanks again for the original info you sent.
Tom Servo: I guess I had a senior moment then. Serial number 955844 places it at the end of the .38 Military & Police model of 1905 4th change run in 1941 or 1942. Serial numbers in the 760000 range were shipped in 1941 and the serial number range ended at 1000000 in 1942. The .38/200 British Service Revolver was made in the same serial number range in .38 S&W, both guns were followed by the Victory model starting at V1.
A half remembered memory says MA is an Australian code, and a quick google finds FTR MA55 on Australian surplus victory model revolvers. The parkerising would have happened when the gun was FTRed.
A lot of American forces staged through Australia during the Pacific theater of WWII, It's quite possible this one was left behind or lend leased and ended up in the hands of the Australian army.
As an Australian I feel honor bound to protect my countries martial heritage. Please package your revolver up and send it to me for conservation. I promise to let you know how it shoots.
A half remembered memory says MA is an Australian code, and a quick google finds FTR MA55 on Australian surplus victory model revolvers. The parkerising would have happened when the gun was FTRed.
A lot of American forces staged through Australia during the Pacific theater of WWII, It's quite possible this one was left behind or lend leased and ended up in the hands of the Australian army.
As an Australian I feel honor bound to protect my countries martial heritage. Please package your revolver up and send it to me for conservation. I promise to let you know how it shoots.
Dead-Nuts-Zero:
The upper side plate screw was deleted in 1955, the screw in the trigger guard was deleted in 1961 with the 17-2.
My fathers 2003 manufactured model 617 has a recessed cylinder, so yes they are still available with recessed cylinders.
I'm not an expert, just a guy with a book, so take the following with a grain of salt. The adjustable rear sight on the 617 lacks a spring but there is a definite click as the rear screw is rotated to allow for elevation. It appears to rely on the sight bars position on the the thread of the screw to hold it steady, there is a square block on the end of the screw that engages with the frame so it doesn't move up and down when pressed on. I'm assuming the 1950's era sights worked on the same principle.
It's possible there is some irregularity in the chambers that polishing may help, I suggest you start a new thread in either the revolver or gunsmithing forums. One of the more knowledgeable members may be able to advise you. Don't mess with the gun without expert advise though.
According to the Standard Catalog of S&W, in 2006 a Postwar K22 Masterpiece, 3rd model in excellent condition was worth $600 in 2006. As you mentioned, prices have gone up on collectible Smiths since then. Of course, with the world economy tanking this may change. For the moment, for paying $400 for a near new K22, you are officially a pirate.
The upper side plate screw was deleted in 1955, the screw in the trigger guard was deleted in 1961 with the 17-2.
My fathers 2003 manufactured model 617 has a recessed cylinder, so yes they are still available with recessed cylinders.
I'm not an expert, just a guy with a book, so take the following with a grain of salt. The adjustable rear sight on the 617 lacks a spring but there is a definite click as the rear screw is rotated to allow for elevation. It appears to rely on the sight bars position on the the thread of the screw to hold it steady, there is a square block on the end of the screw that engages with the frame so it doesn't move up and down when pressed on. I'm assuming the 1950's era sights worked on the same principle.
It's possible there is some irregularity in the chambers that polishing may help, I suggest you start a new thread in either the revolver or gunsmithing forums. One of the more knowledgeable members may be able to advise you. Don't mess with the gun without expert advise though.
According to the Standard Catalog of S&W, in 2006 a Postwar K22 Masterpiece, 3rd model in excellent condition was worth $600 in 2006. As you mentioned, prices have gone up on collectible Smiths since then. Of course, with the world economy tanking this may change. For the moment, for paying $400 for a near new K22, you are officially a pirate.
Tom Servo: MA is the code for the Lithgow Small Arms Factory, New South Wales Australia.
http://www.enfieldcollector.com/markings.html
http://www.enfieldcollector.com/markings.html
carguychris
New member
I'm a little confused by all of this verbage, but your K-22 should have the same basic type of micrometer-adjustable rear sight assembly used on modern S&Ws. There was an older design that uses smaller screws with no click adjustment, and a couple of even older design with no elevation adjustment, but these types should only be found on prewar guns.
Elevation is adjusted with the big screw (which is actually a hollow nut) in front of the blade. The nut engages a stud mounted to the frame. Turning the nut clockwise moves the POI down, counterclockwise moves the POI up. The entire rear sight base flexes upwards when you adjust elevation. In fact, if you try to adjust it too far upwards, you may inadvertantly remove the adjustment nut from the stud, which will cause the entire sight base to "sproing" upwards, possibly causing the washer on the stud or the adjuster nut to fly off.
Be careful adjusting the elevation nut when you can see air underneath the sight base!Older K-22s have notoriously tight chambers. Keep the chambers clean and keep experimenting with different types of ammo. Cheap bulk-pack is generally bad because the tolerances are loose and some cases are larger than others. Remington is also bad because their cases tend to run large. I've had the best luck with Federal target loads, Aguila, and Wolf/SK. {EDIT} Another suggestion is to stick with standard-velocity ammo, because the lower pressure causes the cases to swell less.
S&W rimfire revolvers have no mechanism to prevent the firing pin from striking the backside of the chamber when dry-fired. Dry-firing a couple of times generally won't hurt anything, but repeated dry-firing will cause telltale ugly dimples on the cylinder, and may damage the firing pin. Dry-firing with empty cases in the chambers is the correct procedure and shouldn't hurt anything.
All post-1935 rimfire S&Ws have recessed cylinders to prevent case-head seperations when using high-velocity ammo. FWIW the collector talk about recessed chambers applies only to S&Ws in centerfire Magnum calibers, causing lots of confusion amongst n00bs who try to apply it to rimfire guns (which are almost all recessed, including today's production) and centerfire non-Magnum guns (which were almost never recessed).
Last edited:
carguychris
New member
The number you found is an assembly number, not the serial number. The serial number is located on the bottom of the grip frame (aka the butt). You may have to remove the grips to see it.
The serial number will start with K, xK, xxK, or xxxK ("x" denotes a number), or it will start with 3 letters followed by 4 numbers.
Dead-Nuts-Zero
New member
Sn - K22
I have a few older hand-me down guns, mostly rifle & shotguns of average quality, all are multi-purpose hunt, target guns. I shoot & enjoy them often and know plenty about them as they were family hand-me-downs.
When I purchased this K 22, I was looking for a reliable target shooter that I could afford (no interest in a tricked out pro-target gun). Wanted 6"barrel in DA, in a Colt, Smith, or similar quality. Found exactly what I wanted in this K-22, however I didn't realize I had a gun as old as I am.
After researching the Serial Number, I realized I needed to know more about the gun, (that's what makes shooting so much fun), so once again, TFL Forum is my favorite hang-out.
Its all hats off to the posters who have fed me the info I am looking for. My next move will be getting my hands on a copy of the S&W Catalog book.
Thanks to all who have assisted me, I am off to the revolver and rimfire forums, maybe see ya all over there???
Next question is what ammo do I feed my Smith? I have dozens of assorted ammo to tryout...this is another reason shooting sports are so much fun.
One last thought.....Think of this.... Just 15 years ago, it would have taken months to get this far with my research.
Therefore I must say thanks to TFL Forum, its staff and sponsors, you have a fantastic forum here. Thank you!
Now.....
Last & Least
I send a Huge Thank You to:
The Creator of the InterNet The Honorable
Al Gore
.
.
I have a few older hand-me down guns, mostly rifle & shotguns of average quality, all are multi-purpose hunt, target guns. I shoot & enjoy them often and know plenty about them as they were family hand-me-downs.
When I purchased this K 22, I was looking for a reliable target shooter that I could afford (no interest in a tricked out pro-target gun). Wanted 6"barrel in DA, in a Colt, Smith, or similar quality. Found exactly what I wanted in this K-22, however I didn't realize I had a gun as old as I am.
After researching the Serial Number, I realized I needed to know more about the gun, (that's what makes shooting so much fun), so once again, TFL Forum is my favorite hang-out.
Its all hats off to the posters who have fed me the info I am looking for. My next move will be getting my hands on a copy of the S&W Catalog book.
Thanks to all who have assisted me, I am off to the revolver and rimfire forums, maybe see ya all over there???
Next question is what ammo do I feed my Smith? I have dozens of assorted ammo to tryout...this is another reason shooting sports are so much fun.
One last thought.....Think of this.... Just 15 years ago, it would have taken months to get this far with my research.
Therefore I must say thanks to TFL Forum, its staff and sponsors, you have a fantastic forum here. Thank you!
Now.....
Last & Least
I send a Huge Thank You to:
The Creator of the InterNet The Honorable
Al Gore .
.