Smith and Wesson serial number search

I just picked up a S&W Chiefs Special in 38 S&W Spl. 2" barrel, square butt, blued. It has no model number. I am having a hard time finding an accurate date for the numbers. The number on the bottom of the grip frame is 1199## the number, but the numbers on the inside of yoke is 562##, along with a circle 3.Not sure which ones to go off of. Approximate current value in original box would be nice also. I can post up some pictures if needed.
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The number on the bottom of the grip frame is the SN. Assuming it is a Chiefs Special, SN 1199XX = 1957.

Since value is heavily dependent on condition of the gun and any accessories, pics would be needed at a minimum.

Jim
 
If anyone could pass along a bit on info I would appreciate it. I have a 6" barreled N frame Model 57 in .41 Mag. It has the recessed cylinders and pinned barrel that I'm told are early and desirable features. The serial number is N 324xxx. Where the model number is stamped underneath the crane it looks like it has been overstamped. It reads M57-0 and under the 0 you can see a number 2. I've always wondered if this was just a mistake from the factory or if it indicates something significant.
 
If anyone could pass along a bit on info I would appreciate it. I have a 6" barreled N frame Model 57 in .41 Mag. It has the recessed cylinders and pinned barrel that I'm told are early and desirable features. The serial number is N 324xxx. Where the model number is stamped underneath the crane it looks like it has been overstamped. It reads M57-0 and under the 0 you can see a number 2. I've always wondered if this was just a mistake from the factory or if it indicates something significant.
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Made in 1975/76. The -2 is most likely a mistake. During that time period most blued N frames were in the -2 series. The 57 did not see -1 till 1982 and -2 in 1988.

Jim
 
Thank you Sir...

So would this be a pre 36 then since it doesn't have the model number?Correct?

Here she is (Not the best picture in the world) It belonged to a plantation man who rarely shot his guns. It has some slight scratches (wear) on the side of cylinder where it slide back and fourth in the box otehr then that it is in very good condition.


sw38splhu3.jpg


P1011563.jpg


Thanks again...
 
PredatorHunter,
Correct. FYI - Early J frame serial numbers for pre-36, 37,38, 49, 50.

1950 = start at 1
1952 = 7369 - 21342
1953 = 28916
1955 = 55050 - 75000
1957 = 117770 - 125000 (sometime in 1957, model numbering started)
1962 = starts at 295000
1969 = ends at 786544
 
DOB request

I have a S&W Model 10-8 with a 4" barrel and square butt grips. The serial # is AUH48XX. I'm guessing it's mid-80s.

Thanks!
 
So would this be a pre 36 then since it doesn't have the model number?Correct?

Here she is (Not the best picture in the world) It belonged to a plantation man who rarely shot his guns. It has some slight scratches (wear) on the side of cylinder where it slide back and fourth in the box otehr then that it is in very good condition.
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Not the best picture, but assuming no bluing wear and that the scratches you mention are minor and do not go thru the bluing... Pre 36 with box, I would say ~$450. More if someone is really wanting it. But this is only my opinion.

How about a Model 65-6, SN CDK1127?
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1999

I have a S&W Model 10-8 with a 4" barrel and square butt grips. The serial # is AUH48XX. I'm guessing it's mid-80s.
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Good guess.. 1987.

Jim
 
R215313 - Model 60 - mind looking that one up for me? I sure would appreciate it! Also...I just sprayed some Gun Scrubber down the hammer to clean it out (bought it used just now) and the trigger pull/hammer draw is a bit gritty. How do I remedy that? Thanks!

Ken
 
R215313 - Model 60
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Nineteen-hundred and seventy-eight, my friend.

You are on the right track. What I do with gritty or older guns is this:

1) Remove sideplate (proper fitting and hollow-ground screwdriver so as to not bugger the heads or scratch the gun, remove grips, strike bare grip frame with screwdriver handle or wooden hammer handle until plate vibrates off, else you will tweak it if you pry).

2) Spray liberal amounts of brake cleaner everywhere, and repeat until it is very clean and shiny in there. Gun Scrubber would work for this, too, but brake cleaner is about as effective and much cheaper.

3) blast out with compressed air

4) apply light, very light coating of oil to bearing/sliding surfaces (rebound slide, sear/hammer/trigger, stud bosses) - ATF is very good. Apply with a q-tip or sometimes I use bearing/assembly oil in a squeeze bottle with a tiny plastic tube applicator. You want to be minimalist about this.

5) close gun and don't oil the innards again for a good LONG time.

Most people over-lubricate and with the wrong lubricant. They oxidize to varnish or gum, and also help attract lint and powder residue.

Grant Cunningham has one of the best sources of info about gun lubrication on his blog/web site. If you are tempted to go in there with a stone or file, resist that temptation unless you REALLY know what you are doing. Smoothing the sides of the rebound slide is OK, but don't touch the trigger/hammer/sear, or the hammer seat on the rebound slide except under expert guidance, such as with Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual or Jerry Miculek's DVD guide.
 
need info on model 37

I just bought a nice looking model 37.

Serial Number is: 722JX

Barrel is pinned.

I checked the SW book and couldn't find any info. Does anyone know the approximate date of this firearm?

Thanks
 
1978?!? WOW!! Nice! :cool: Thank you!

The only issue I'm having is that it's binding up when I shoot the last round after it gets hot. Cleaned, tested, etc...cannot figure out what the issue is. Any suggestions? It was with WWB .38spl 130 FMJ. Took rounds out and it dry fired every time perfectly...not the same charge hole everytime either. I suspect that something is bent, but cannot figure it out.
 
Dogg
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- That would be about 1972 I think. Could be wrong. J numbers always give me fits.

Ben
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- Try the cleaning as above just as maintenance to start "fresh" when getting an older revolver. Then try these things:

1) Clean under ejector star thoroughly to make sure no material is under there.
2) make Sure the ejector rod is thoroughly tight. If it is a little loose, it will create those symptoms. It is reverse threaded, so don't go the wrong direction. Wrap a piece of rubber or leather over the knurled end and grasp it with a tool so as not to mar it, and don't bend it.
3) check the locking stud at the end of the ejector rod on the barrel. Make sure it moves freely and easily in it's locking lug housing.
 
Ken -

At this point, I'd suggest you start a new thread in the main revolver section or in "The Smithy" section. If the above common causes didn't cure it, we will need to get more detailed. You will also get the attention of more knowledgeable people than myself that way.

Title it - "S&W 60 Cylinder locks after firing - help?" or something.

Describe the condition and what you've tried already. The first responses will likely suggest what I did, so let them know you've checked the ejector bolt and the ejector body itself. These are the most common causes. Perhaps we have a hand issue going on.

Does it do this with all ammo, or have you tried switching ammo? That is a frequent cause, too, especially handloads. It shouldn't really have a problem with factory Winchester like you said you used though. It is very, very unlikely the ammo is out of spec, but worth switching to see if that alters the problem.
 
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