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Good cheap lube
- Thread starter viciouskitty
- Start date
Double Impact
New member
I have not been following this thread and read thru it pretty fast.
But I did not see Weaponshield mentioned it's really a very good CLP.
The guy that makes it used to make FP10.
You should ck it out at: www.steelshieldtech.com
But I did not see Weaponshield mentioned it's really a very good CLP.
The guy that makes it used to make FP10.
You should ck it out at: www.steelshieldtech.com
Micropterus
New member
For oil I use Break Free CLP. For a grease I useSuper Lube Synthetic Grease.
teflon fishing reel oil
I use a teflon fishing reel oil in all of my guns. The selling point for me was when I went surf fishing I noticed my surf rods were fine and my bay rods had rust. . . got the idea in my head and took my AK47 out the next day. Cleaned it, lubed it up, fired 90 rds, not one misfeed, jam, malfunction or ftf. The barrel was smoking hot, yet the lubricant stayed in place and stayed relatively thick for being so hot. The next morning the lube was still good to go.
Someone might tell you its not a good idea but it hasnt failed me yet.
I use a teflon fishing reel oil in all of my guns. The selling point for me was when I went surf fishing I noticed my surf rods were fine and my bay rods had rust. . . got the idea in my head and took my AK47 out the next day. Cleaned it, lubed it up, fired 90 rds, not one misfeed, jam, malfunction or ftf. The barrel was smoking hot, yet the lubricant stayed in place and stayed relatively thick for being so hot. The next morning the lube was still good to go.
Someone might tell you its not a good idea but it hasnt failed me yet.
Another lube with moly in it is 10-8. They have a detailed write up about it on the product page. I haven't tried it yet.
http://www.10-8performance.com/products/10%2d8-Lube.html
http://www.10-8performance.com/products/10%2d8-Lube.html
observed, experienced
I have observed handguns fail to function in bitter cold, extreme dust, rain, and when fired extensively without cleaning/relubricating.
I have experienced function failure in bitter cold using RemOil (while testing it specifically for bitter cold use).
I have also experienced function failure with dirty guns and other lubricants.
I have observed these failed handguns return to function immediately after an application of Breakfree CLP.
I have used many lubricants since I started in 1976, but none have provided reliable function under the conditions I shoot in like Breakfree CLP.
I use and recommend Breakfree CLP. Still.
My mind remains open; testing continues.
I also use now-banned-formula Prolix, and Corrosion X, and (really old) S&W name-escapes-me-and-I'm-too-lazy-to-go-down-to-the-shop-and-check, and Tetragun grease.
On certain guns and specific locations.
Anybody ever hear of a gun failing due to someone using the wrong lube
I have observed handguns fail to function in bitter cold, extreme dust, rain, and when fired extensively without cleaning/relubricating.
I have experienced function failure in bitter cold using RemOil (while testing it specifically for bitter cold use).
I have also experienced function failure with dirty guns and other lubricants.
I have observed these failed handguns return to function immediately after an application of Breakfree CLP.
I have used many lubricants since I started in 1976, but none have provided reliable function under the conditions I shoot in like Breakfree CLP.
I use and recommend Breakfree CLP. Still.
My mind remains open; testing continues.
I also use now-banned-formula Prolix, and Corrosion X, and (really old) S&W name-escapes-me-and-I'm-too-lazy-to-go-down-to-the-shop-and-check, and Tetragun grease.
On certain guns and specific locations.
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Flame me if you want... but I only use products that are designed for firearms on my firearms, and my customers firearms. The cost is moot, and not something I even worry about. If money is so tight that saving a few bucks over a couple years is that important than chances are I wouldn't be worried about shooting.
I run my AR with EEZOX and it works great, even when run dry.
My 1911's I use a good solid rail grease, coat the outside with Hoppe's oil. After shooting I rub them down with a silicone hoppes cloth.
My other handguns I use hoppe's oil, or Remoil, or CLP.
I run my AR with EEZOX and it works great, even when run dry.
My 1911's I use a good solid rail grease, coat the outside with Hoppe's oil. After shooting I rub them down with a silicone hoppes cloth.
My other handguns I use hoppe's oil, or Remoil, or CLP.
I started using Butch's Bore Solvent a few years ago and tried their Gun Oil. Love it. To me, cost in the absence of value is not a consideration. It's an American value to support niche products, like Gun maintenance products. Like posted earlier, I don't spend over $1,000 on a firearm and worry about a few dollars for maintenance. I've used Mobil-1 MOTOR OIL in my vehicles for more than 10 years and love it, also. I use products for the intended purpose.
black mamba
New member
I use Hoppe's #9, Break Free and RemOil. Also, Sweet's 7.62 copper solvent when needed.
As an aside, what is the best oil to prevent bore damage after using the Sweet's copper solvent?
As an aside, what is the best oil to prevent bore damage after using the Sweet's copper solvent?
FWIW, I have Lubriplate as grease along with Disc Brake grease. I also do have some other name brand greases but use those two the most.
For oil I make my own...... (I also use alot of Ed's Red, with lanolin, that I make at home with a few little tweaks of my own.)
For copper cleaning.......I use store bought brands for the most part.
Oil:
2 parts Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid
1 Part Mobil-1 Synthetic Oil, 30 weight, or 10W-30
1 Part STP Oil Treatment (the stuff for "old" cars w/ over 30,000 mi.)
(I add about 2 percent kerosene and 2 percent lanolin for thinning out the mix, give it a bit of cleaning action and lanolin for rust prevention.)
It's as good as any oil I have ever used.
ETA: Oh, and I always add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of BHT granules per gallon of any homemade cleaner or oil to prevent oxidation and give the solution a much longer shelf life.
(The same ratio of BHT granules can be used in the gasoline you use for the lawn mower, snow blower, etc., to substantially extend the shelf life also.)
For oil I make my own...... (I also use alot of Ed's Red, with lanolin, that I make at home with a few little tweaks of my own.)
For copper cleaning.......I use store bought brands for the most part.
Oil:
2 parts Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid
1 Part Mobil-1 Synthetic Oil, 30 weight, or 10W-30
1 Part STP Oil Treatment (the stuff for "old" cars w/ over 30,000 mi.)
(I add about 2 percent kerosene and 2 percent lanolin for thinning out the mix, give it a bit of cleaning action and lanolin for rust prevention.)
It's as good as any oil I have ever used.
ETA: Oh, and I always add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of BHT granules per gallon of any homemade cleaner or oil to prevent oxidation and give the solution a much longer shelf life.
(The same ratio of BHT granules can be used in the gasoline you use for the lawn mower, snow blower, etc., to substantially extend the shelf life also.)
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I wonder why no one mentioned military LSA ( Lubricant Small Arms ) It is made for lubricating small arms and is widely available. If it did not work, the military would not use it. I am sure that all the lubes mentiond work okey. It is kind of like brushing your teeth....the important thing is to brush, not what brand of tooth paste that you use. Bottom line is, if it works for you and you like , then use it
I have to retract what I thought about moly particle size
I had posted the question on a lube forum "At what size do moly particles become abrasive?"
It took a while but a guy shared his experience with moly particle sizes:
I had posted the question on a lube forum "At what size do moly particles become abrasive?"
It took a while but a guy shared his experience with moly particle sizes:
If the Moly particle is larger than the lubrication film and travels through the loaded bearings or gears on its edge where no slippage is possible then the particle is very robust and will cause abrasive wear. (The reason that MoS2 reinforced gear lubricant usually run @ 45-70 ppm Fe on spectrographic analysis from light abrasive wear.)
The best boundary additive form for MoS2 is fine platelet sized less than 3-4 µm which here was the Acheson Moly Dag 407 an extremely good boundary additive 3-4 years back.
Acheson was purchased 2-3 years ago and we noted that since that purchase there appears to be no MoS2 of the correct size spec available and the MoS2 offered is large, up to 60 µm per MoS2 particle and the planes that are meant to shear are convoluted and intertwined making it impossible to shear resulting in the incorrect MoS2 causing abrasive wear and damage.
We noted that our customers are filtering this incorrect sized MoS2 Gear Lubricants at 5 µm and once the larger MoS2 particles are removed the applications settle down to normal wear.
For MoS2 to be effective the particles must be platelet in shape and less than 3-4 µm in size