Good cheap lube

What I am not seeing here are nay-sayers who have actually TRIED using motor oil as a gun lubricant.

Your gun will not explode, fall to pieces, or take off rolling down the highway at 60 MPH just because you used Mobil 1 once. People in the Middle East even use cooking oil in their guns. Sheesh.
 
I'm sure it works just fine. It's just I don't use it in my car, truck, 4 wheeler, boat, lawnmower, or anything else. So, why buy quart of something to sit around when I can buy convenient sized bottles of something especially made for my guns.
Yes, you are paying an astronomical amount per gallon for gun oil, but I don't buy it by the gallon.
 
I like Mili-tec grease on pocket pistols because it doesn't run off easily.For all other firearm use I like Weaponshield products.I'm not saying ATF and engine oil won't do the job but I won't want that stuff on my skin.I've also read that when ATF gets smoking hot toxic vapors appear.I don't need that either.In my mind cheaper doesn't mean better.YMMV.tom.:cool:
 
Everyone has the freedom to choose what they use. IMO, synthetic motor oils and synthetic high temperature industrial greases are better than gun oil as most gun oils are little more than mineral spirits. It just so happens these synthetic lubricants are also less expensive than gun oil. If they were more expensive than gun oil, I would still use them.
 
I'm reiterating what I've already said - but anyway. None of the makers of "gun oils" ever created their lubricants. They just mixed existing petrochemicals. WD-40 is a good example of a product that is just a blend of existing stuff - the 39 previous mixtures were not adequate, Norm Larsen got it right on the 40th attempt - a moisture displacer. I doubt a single one of these gun oil "makers" - Hopps, RemOil, etc... have a refinery or even a tribologist or chemist on staff. These guys just blend stuff.

It would be like me mixing a carton of gelatin and saying I invented Jello.

No.

I just mixed it.

On the other hand - companies like British Petroleum, Castrol (especially Castrol Industrial - Germany), and ExxonMobil - do have refineries, they do have many many chemists and tribologists in their employ. And they actually create lubricants.

The only exception to this IMO, is Don Yoder and Break-Free CLP. I’m not saying Don created a new petrochemical. Don is not a chemist or tribologist but he came up with a substance that met DOD PD-48 when no one else could. Purchase Description-48 —calling for a single, multi-purpose product to clean, lubricate and protect weaponry with following requirements:

1. It must easily remove firing residue, carbon
deposits and other contaminants during the
cleaning process, and prevent the rapid buildup of
subsequent deposits during firing which cause
malfunctions and weapon failure.

2. It must lubricate moving parts, including those
which bear a heavy load, and it must continue to
lubricate over long periods of time and use. At
the same time it must not be sticky or greasy so
as to attract dust, sand or dirt which would cause
malfunctions. As a weapons lubricant it must
function under all conditions - extreme heat or
cold, in mud, water, dust, etc.

3. As a corrosion preventative it must protect the
weapon and preserve it in a "grab-and-go"
condition in all climatic conditions - high
humidity, rain, snow, etc., and it must protect
the weapon against corrosion in field use, even in
extreme conditions such as salt water
environments.

The requirements were so severe that PD-48 became known as the "impossible specification," and from 1971 nothing was found to come even close to meeting its requirements, until BREAK-FREE CLP was introduced. The U.S. Military began testing BREAK-FREE CLP in 1976 and for almost three years it carried out test after test in the laboratories and in the field on weapons of all types from the M16 rifle to 8 inch artillery howitzers, until finally, in 1979, it was completely satisfied that BREAK-FREE CLP not only met the "impossible specification," but even exceeded its requirements.


It’s like the M9 pistol; people can say that their favorite XYZ pistol wasn’t even in the trials so it doesn’t make the Beretta better than their favorite pistol or whatever… But the bottom line is the M9 won those trials.

Hopps, Remoil, Eezox, WeaponSheild – whatever, didn’t win the military trials for a lubricant, which was a pretty lucrative contract, Break-Free CLP did win it, Don Yoder may not have been a top chemist working for ExxonMobil, but he must have known something because he created CLP.

Don’s product was tested extensively and his credentials stem from creating a successful product. But it seems to me like the rest of the people working mixing up their specialty “Gun Lubes” don’t have credentials, and their products haven’t successfully passed any extensive testing.

With products like ATF and Mobil One oil - at least I know there is quality science that has gone into the products' creation, and then it's a question of whether the product is appropriate for the application of lubricating a firearm. With some of the gun lubes - I have no idea if there is any science behind the blending of the substance at all. It could just be mineral oil with fragrence. (which in some cases it is).
 
Good cheap gun oil

I use ED'S RED.
Mix equal parts of:
Varsol/Oil based paint thinner
K-1 Kerosene
Dextron 1, 2 or 3
One quart of Dextrol, fill the container with paint thinner and then K-1 Kerosene. Use it as an OIL and/or GUN CLEANER.
 
C0untZer0 said:
If the Molybdenum particles are not fine enough however, then the oil or grease actually becomes abrasive – sort of the equivalent of rubbing compound.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybde...de#cite_note-3
I was interested that you followed this rather absolute statement with a citation of a Wikipedia article that doesn't even hint at that. Tidbits from the Wikipedia article DO include the following statements:

Because of the weak van der Waals interactions between the sheets of sulfide atoms, MoS2 has a low coefficient of friction, resulting in its lubricating properties.

MoS2 with particle sizes in the range of 1–100 µm is a common dry lubricant. Few alternatives exist that can confer the high lubricity and stability up to 350 °C in oxidizing environments. Sliding friction tests of MoS2 using a pin on disc tester at low loads (0.1–2 N) give friction coefficient values of <0.1.[4][5]

Lubrication

With the exception of hexagonal boron nitride, there are currently no clear lubrication alternatives to molybdenum disulfide or the very similar tungsten disulfide that can resist temperatures higher than 350 °C in oxidizing environments.
 
I'll track down that reference that refers to large particle sizes being abrasive.

I don't know at what size it becomes abrasive, larger than moly dust/fine powder I would imagine.
 
I doubt a single one of these gun oil "makers" - Hopps, RemOil, etc... have a refinery or even a tribologist or chemist on staff. These guys just blend stuff.

Kind of like saying there isn't a single chef that has a cattle ranch, dairy farm, grain farm, and flour mill. They buy the components that are used to make their product. Just like people buy the components to make Ed's Red.
I just pay a little more for the convince of having them do it for me.
 
I dont even bother using lube on any semi auto gun. It just tends to collect any dirt or dust that is floating around when you are opperating the weapon, causing it to gum up the wrks and make the weapon jam. With semi autos I just say when you are cleaning it just use a whole bunch of Hoppes #9 that acts as a great lube.
 
From C0untZer0's link:

Remembering what we stated above, Moly has the extraordinary affinity to stick to metal, especially if rubbed in. It does not dissolve in oil or grease, It is not possible to grind Moly so small, .35 micron (one micrin equals a millionth of a meter0 that the particles remain supende in liquids, such as oil, grease, glycol, water and alcohol. When the treatment is added to crankcase oil, temperature and pressure cause instantaneous reaction between Moly and bearing metal, and a low friction solid film is formed to keep the bearing surfaces from actually touching. This plating is firmed by thermo-chemical reaction and it is continuously supplied to the friction surfaces of the engine or equipment parts by being suspended in the fluid lubricant. The Moly solid film friction plating is extremely durable-probably the only method of removal is to grind it off. Because Moly is a lubricant, it is possible for two Moly plated parts such as a bearing and a shaft to run for an indefinite period of time without a fluid oil.
Which is why I add superfine moly powder to Mobil-1 to make gun oil. It should eventually plate the slide rails and eliminate wear in that area.
 
Which is why I add superfine moly powder to Mobil-1 to make gun oil. It should eventually plate the slide rails and eliminate wear in that area.


(emphasis added)

And I bet a chemist could tell you if it actually does what you think it should. ;)


On a more serious note....

Are there any gun lubes that have the moly powder in them already?
 
I'm not a chemist... in fact I have no qualifications to choose lubricants whatsoever. However, I can say that I have used many different lubes, and the only things that changed were how long they prevented rust. Usually, expensive stuff didn't work any better than stuff like ATF. Right now I have Ballistol and ATF sitting next to my cleaning kits, and those together with Hoppes should cover anything and everything.

I might try Breakfree CLP someday, after my bottle of ATF runs out. Might try some grease in my HK93, it did come packed with white lithium grease.

As long as the weapon operates properly, I think it's unlikely that the particular type of lube will matter much. Rust is a far worse enemy than mechanical wear in my neck of the woods anyway (Virginia).
 
Breakfree CLP.

You are in South Texas and rust prevention is a consideration. Many of the suggestions here may have more lubricity, but can be very poor at preventing corrosion. CLP does a good job at both.
 
Molybdenum particle sizes

Well, after looking for this reference and asking around, it seems like the general opinon about Molybdenum is that while 1–100 µm particle size would be best, as far as it becoming abrasive at certain particle sizes, it won't.

Or maybe I should say it's a function of the hardness of the materials that Molybdenum is coming in contact with. For the firearms application, this is probably going to be steel. Molybdenum is softer than steel, so while the larger particle sizes might not be ideal for getting into the tiny nooks and crannies of the steel structure, or the larger partciles are not ideal for forming a film, they're not going to be abrasive or put scratches in steel no matter what the size particle.

Now that I am thinking about it, this totally makes sense, just in the same way that lead is not going to be abrasive to a steel barrel.
 
I have Lucas Gun Oil, Bottle Break Free, Spray Break Free, Hoppes #9, Remington 40X, Rem Oil, Hopps MDL, WD40, RIG +P SS Lube, Remington Action Cleaner, Engine Degreaser, Remington Dri Lube, G96, Otters Gun Oil, Ballistol, Liquid Kroil Oil, Aero Kroil Oil, Rem Oil, Liquid Wrench Spray, JB Bore Paste, and others not counting stuff like Butches Bore Shine for copper.

With all the above in the cabinet. I oil mostly with a 50/50 blend of Mobile 1 and Dextron ATF, or Lucas Gun Oil, which I am pretty sure is the same stuff per a buddy of mine who has a friend at Lucas.

For general lubrication grease for my MK III bolt, frame rails etc, I use Lubriplate #105 Engine Assembly Lube the Original White Grease. OR the RIG Stainless Steel Lube.

For general wipe down and parts cleaning I use the 3 part Ed's Red Formula, Dextron, K1, and Mineral Spirits. It makes 3/4 Gallon, so soak down a rag, or put some in a bowl and go to cleaning parts. It also works just fine for a general bore cleaning solvent.

For Bolt Locking Lugs I use the Green Marine & Boat Trailer Gun Grease.

I still use Lucas Gun Oil, Hoppes #9, Kroil, Butches Bore Shine, Sheath, Break Free, 40X, JB Bore Paste, RIG, Spray Degreasers, etc. They all have a use.

Do I think the Ed's Red is as good a powder solvent for lite duty bore cleaning as "Current Production" #9? I am not 100% sure, but it is going to be close. For general parts cleaning it is as good as anything I have used.

Do I think the 50/50 Dextron & Mobile 1 blend is as good or better than most commercial gun oil? Yes

Do I think Lubriplate #105 is a good lite gun grease? Yes
I am sure it is not the answer for every application, but it seems to work ok for my Mk III, 10-22, AR15-22, AR15, semi auto pistol slide rails and barrel rub points, etc.

Do I think the Marine/Boat Trailer bearing grease makes a good Bolt Lug grease? Yes again.

One of my buddies started using a new all purpose wonder product a while back on his 1911 compact. The gun shop owner was really pushing the stuff. He was looking over his 1911 this weekend and noticed some wear where he had not had any before on the bushingless barrel end, leading him to believe this new stuff was not what he needed to be using on it.
I have not had this kind of a problem with RIG Lub or Lubriplate 105 on any of my guns. Just because it is a hi dollar product recommended by a Snake Oil Salesman does not guarantee it is a good product to be using.

You may not have room to store 1/2 gallon of the Mobile 1 & Dextron blend lubricant to lube your guns with. I do, and I use it for more than my guns. If I need to lube my Hi Lift jack, or a trailer latch, the stuff works great for that also. My brother was wiping down an axe with it the other day. Good Hi Grade Synthetic Oil can be used for many applications around the farm.

Just my 2 cents.

Bob
 
One of the other things I really like about synthetics is they tend to penetrate well and break up old goop. I have restored to function quite a few things, a few guns included WITHOUT disassembly by applying synthetic oil and / or blasting out after it has done it's thing.
 
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