Geezerbiker
New member
I use automatic transmission fluid. Ed Harris recommended it many years ago when he was posting on FidoNet. I've had very good results with it for both lubrication and rust prevention.
Tony
Tony
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Good cheap lube
- Thread starter viciouskitty
- Start date
I went to the hardware store and bought a 12 oz can of Triflow for $7. That was 8 years and several dozen guns ago. It's starting to run low, I may need another can in a couple of years. How much is a quart of ATF these days? Don't forget to add in the cost of a bottle to dispense it, unless you plan to pour it out of the quart bottle every time you use it.
I use Hoppes #9 oil to wipe the outside.
I use Hoppes #9 oil to wipe the outside.
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sailskidrive
New member
Hmmmm....
>>Wd-40 occasionally
I'm surprised WD40 has been mentioned as it's really more of a solvent than a lubricant; excellent for displacing water and preventing rust not so good for anything that twists or slides.
I usually use a few drops of Rem Oil on rotating parts and a super thin, real light swish of grease on anything that slides. I have a 4oz jar of Eno's Slide Glide that seems to be lasting forever, I like it because it's in a small container. Oh and it's RED just like the sweet and sour sauce from the local Chinese restaurant. ;-)
>>Wd-40 occasionally
I'm surprised WD40 has been mentioned as it's really more of a solvent than a lubricant; excellent for displacing water and preventing rust not so good for anything that twists or slides.
I usually use a few drops of Rem Oil on rotating parts and a super thin, real light swish of grease on anything that slides. I have a 4oz jar of Eno's Slide Glide that seems to be lasting forever, I like it because it's in a small container. Oh and it's RED just like the sweet and sour sauce from the local Chinese restaurant. ;-)
new_scopeshooter
New member
Rem oil!!! Or rig universal gun grease
When someone can show why Mobile 1 is not as good as XX oil then I may change. If I remember correctly, some years ago when the subject came up Richard Heinie said after break- in he used Mobile 1.
Since he has been considered the best 1911 gunsmith that is a pretty good recommendation.
I have used about everything, including FP10, and the super lubes. When all is said and done I have stayed with Mobile 1 for maybe 10 years now.
"A fool and his money are soon parted."
Jerry
Since he has been considered the best 1911 gunsmith that is a pretty good recommendation.
I have used about everything, including FP10, and the super lubes. When all is said and done I have stayed with Mobile 1 for maybe 10 years now.
"A fool and his money are soon parted."
Jerry
I think it’s kind of amazing that some shooters will spend hours scouring the Internet to get the best deal on ammo to save a few bucks on a 50rd box, but they’ll pay $40.00 a gallon for “gun” oil to clean their firearms.
I dont do that either. Time is money. I also wont drive 40 miles to save $2 or pay $10 in shipping because the product is $4 cheaper than local.
Mobil-1 15W50 is as good a gun oil as you can find anywhere. I modify mine with a small amount of micro-fine molybdenum powder.
Not directed at this particular poster.... I prefer to leave the chemistry to the chemists.
Im looking at a 2floz bottle of hoppes gun oil I got about a year ago and its still got a bit left in it, and I clean and oil my guns pretty often.
When someone can show why Mobile 1 is not as good as XX oil then I may change. If I remember correctly, some years ago when the subject came up Richard Heinie said after break- in he used Mobile 1.
Since he has been considered the best 1911 gunsmith that is a pretty good recommendation.
That seems kind of backwards. How about you showing why Mobil 1 is a suitable substitute? (read my previous posts, Ive used other non gun oils too)
Not knocking Richard Henie.... but he's a gunsmith, not a chemist.
Buy what ever gives you the warm fuzzies.
I have a bottle of hoppes that Ive had for close to 25 yrs. I have another thats around 20 yrs. I recently bought a little bottle of Rem oil to try (around $5) and a little bottle of something I cant remember because Ive never opened it.
So Ive spent around $20-$30 in gun oil over the last 25 yrs and still have 1/2 of it left.
I have a lot of other areas of potential savings I should focus on 1st before I worry about $2 / yr spending. Even x10 ($20/yr) ..... a lot of other areas to save money.
General.....
I have and idea.... how about I buy 5 qts of gun oil and someone put it into your car engine for 3000+ miles.
I dont usually hear too many people very eager to do that.
In reverse order, I would go with what Richard Henie had to say about lubing a pistol, especially a 1911, over any chemist on earth. He may arguably be the best 1911 gunsmith in the world. Chemists can talk numbers and theory. Heine can talk actual results. However, I think a chemist would agree with Heine.That seems kind of backwards. How about you showing why Mobil 1 is a suitable substitute? (read my previous posts, Ive used other non gun oils too)
Not knocking Richard Henie.... but he's a gunsmith, not a chemist.
Now, I am not trying to convert anyone to Mobil 1. What you use is your own business and THERE ARE LOTS OF GOOD CHOICES.
First, consider this. All the top "gun oils" are synthetic oils. Does anybody think there is a refinery out there actually synthesizing oil strictly for the gun industry? The gun lube business isn't even a drop in an ocean for refiners. The same basic synthetic oil is used in gun oils and other oils like motor oil but with different additives. Specifically for gun lube, they would add a chemical to help prevent rust and corrosion as the engine oils like Mobil 1 don't excel in this department (I first use a thin coat of CLP on my rails before applying oil). However, the basic lubricating qualities would remain the same.
I'm not going to go into a lot of detail about the numbers. I'll simply post a couple of links. Here is one of mine comparing Mobil 1 5W-30 to WD-40. http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4685472&postcount=77. A quick Google search shows this comparison of Mobil 1 10W-30 to Militec-1 and Remoil. http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-363999.html (look at the post from benEzra dated May 17, 2008 at 10:43 a.m.). I researched these numbers and others over a course of a week a couple of years ago. You're welcome to do the same.
Added: I don't use Mobil 1 because I want to save money, though I'm all in favor of that. I use it because it is an excellent gun lubricant.
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I've used "Ed's Red" for cleaning for years. Ed Harris, a Rifleman "Dope Bag" editor and frequent contributer, came up with the formula in consultation with an organic chemist. The mix recreates Springfield Armory and Frankfort Armory's cleaning and lubing procedure, only with modern materials. The result is a cheap way to effectively clean and lube small arms.
The basic ingredients for the cleaning solution are:
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.
For a lubricant, Ed recommends diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.
Best Regards, Rodfac
The basic ingredients for the cleaning solution are:
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.
For a lubricant, Ed recommends diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.
Best Regards, Rodfac
You’re not necessarily getting a great cleaner or lube just because it has the word “Gun” on the packaging.
Some gun oils are little more than mineral oil with scent added. Some gun cleaning products have chlorinated esters in them (although purportedly not enough to cause corrosion), other products that have "gun cleaner" or "gun lubricant" listed as one of their uses, actually dry up and leave a gummy sludge or lacquer-like finish (not good for the insides of a firearm).
There is a lot more science behind the creation of automotive and industrial lubricants than the creation of most so-called “gun” lubricants. The issues with a lot of the gun products are:
“What’s really in them?”
“Who made them?”
“How were they tested ?”
“What are the test results?”
These are not issues with the automotive and industrial lubricants – for the most part. There are some fringe products out there like “Daring Donald Doyle’s Marvelous Mystery Oil.” - or whatever. But for the most part the oils and greases out there are proven manufacturers with proven track records of successfully serving the industrial sector and or the automotive industry.
The issue with the automotive and industrial lubricants is applicability.
Is this grease or oil best suited for a firearm application.
A grease that is used on the bearings and load joints of a 34,000 lb knuckle-boom loader may be great for pistols, but not necessarily so.
Grease that’s used for 200 hp industrial meat grinder may be great for firearms, but not necessarily so…
Tribologists look at the conditions that a machine operates under and matches the different characteristics of different lubes to the application.
I’ve read where gun owners have said stuff like “The inside of an engine is a lot hotter than my pistol – therefore if the oil works in an engine it must work great on a firearm.
Or – “Rotors and brake parts are way dirtier than my guns, if brake cleaner will clean the crud off brake parts – I figure it will work great on my guns.”
It doesn’t follow logically. It’s not matching the needs of the application with the characteristics of the solvent or lubricant.
It’s like saying “I use oven cleaner in my oven and it gets to be 490 ° F – that’s way hotter than my pistol gets, so I’m going to use Easy-Off on my pistol.
It’s a non-sequitur
Some gun oils are little more than mineral oil with scent added. Some gun cleaning products have chlorinated esters in them (although purportedly not enough to cause corrosion), other products that have "gun cleaner" or "gun lubricant" listed as one of their uses, actually dry up and leave a gummy sludge or lacquer-like finish (not good for the insides of a firearm).
There is a lot more science behind the creation of automotive and industrial lubricants than the creation of most so-called “gun” lubricants. The issues with a lot of the gun products are:
“What’s really in them?”
“Who made them?”
“How were they tested ?”
“What are the test results?”
These are not issues with the automotive and industrial lubricants – for the most part. There are some fringe products out there like “Daring Donald Doyle’s Marvelous Mystery Oil.” - or whatever. But for the most part the oils and greases out there are proven manufacturers with proven track records of successfully serving the industrial sector and or the automotive industry.
The issue with the automotive and industrial lubricants is applicability.
Is this grease or oil best suited for a firearm application.
A grease that is used on the bearings and load joints of a 34,000 lb knuckle-boom loader may be great for pistols, but not necessarily so.
Grease that’s used for 200 hp industrial meat grinder may be great for firearms, but not necessarily so…
Tribologists look at the conditions that a machine operates under and matches the different characteristics of different lubes to the application.
I’ve read where gun owners have said stuff like “The inside of an engine is a lot hotter than my pistol – therefore if the oil works in an engine it must work great on a firearm.
Or – “Rotors and brake parts are way dirtier than my guns, if brake cleaner will clean the crud off brake parts – I figure it will work great on my guns.”
It doesn’t follow logically. It’s not matching the needs of the application with the characteristics of the solvent or lubricant.
It’s like saying “I use oven cleaner in my oven and it gets to be 490 ° F – that’s way hotter than my pistol gets, so I’m going to use Easy-Off on my pistol.
It’s a non-sequitur
gearchecker
New member
Marvel's Mystery Oil works great
Marvel's Mystery Oil. Available at your local Wal-Mart for around $4 quart.
I've used it on a couple of gunked up firearms and it works great. It disolves creosote and grime pretty much overnight. It won't hurt any blued finishes that I'm aware of. My Mosin 91/30 was my first attempt, and it was amazing how well it worked.
You can also dump about a cup full into your gas tank of your car or truck (Including Diesel) and it'll slightly improve your mileage, but it will also help clean the fuel lines and carb quite nicely.
Marvel's Mystery Oil. Available at your local Wal-Mart for around $4 quart.
I've used it on a couple of gunked up firearms and it works great. It disolves creosote and grime pretty much overnight. It won't hurt any blued finishes that I'm aware of. My Mosin 91/30 was my first attempt, and it was amazing how well it worked.
You can also dump about a cup full into your gas tank of your car or truck (Including Diesel) and it'll slightly improve your mileage, but it will also help clean the fuel lines and carb quite nicely.
I use mostly mobile 1 and industrial grease for my guns. I am not cheap and when I buy a 2k plus 1911 or assemble one I can see, feel and appreciate the quality when I shoot it. This is because there is a heck of a difference between one of these guns and a 400 dollar 1911. Were this not the case I would not spend the money.
When it comes to oil I can see and appreciate no difference. Zero nada, none. There are ways to check lubricants and compare, the needs of a gun are unlikely so critical as to matter much in the end. Likewise I do not for one second believe very much research goes into firearms lubricant but I know a whole lot of marketing does. If one values and believes that ok fine great, live long and prosper. The rest of us will save our hard earned dollars.
Similar arguments are had all the time over factory or aftermarket parts, generic meds or name brand.... Etc
When it comes to oil I can see and appreciate no difference. Zero nada, none. There are ways to check lubricants and compare, the needs of a gun are unlikely so critical as to matter much in the end. Likewise I do not for one second believe very much research goes into firearms lubricant but I know a whole lot of marketing does. If one values and believes that ok fine great, live long and prosper. The rest of us will save our hard earned dollars.
Similar arguments are had all the time over factory or aftermarket parts, generic meds or name brand.... Etc
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Chemistry has nothing to do with it. The moly doesn't dissolve in the oil or alter the oil chemically in any way. The moly powder stays in suspension and acts like a bunch of microscopic ball bearings between the moving parts.danez71 said:Not directed at this particular poster.... I prefer to leave the chemistry to the chemists.Mobil-1 15W50 is as good a gun oil as you can find anywhere. I modify mine with a small amount of micro-fine molybdenum powder.
orionengnr
New member
I have been reading about Ed's Red for years. I finally mixed some up about six months ago and am quite impressed. It seems to be every bit the cleaner and lubricant that commercial CLP is.
The protectant factor seems good so far, although I have not really tested that as I shoot and clean my carry and range guns frequently.
Anything that does not get shot regularly gets wiped down with Eezox once a year. It is not cheap, but it is arguably the best rust preventative out there.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
The protectant factor seems good so far, although I have not really tested that as I shoot and clean my carry and range guns frequently.
Anything that does not get shot regularly gets wiped down with Eezox once a year. It is not cheap, but it is arguably the best rust preventative out there.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
WD 40==never.
For wiping down and preventing rusty fingerprints==RIG-rust inhibiting grease. Apply with a RIG rug or foot square piece of cotton Tshirt.
Very little oil. Oil running down the bore into the stock make a nice oil soaked stock-black. Not in one or two years but it will happen.
For wiping down and preventing rusty fingerprints==RIG-rust inhibiting grease. Apply with a RIG rug or foot square piece of cotton Tshirt.
Very little oil. Oil running down the bore into the stock make a nice oil soaked stock-black. Not in one or two years but it will happen.