Good cheap lube
- Thread starter viciouskitty
- Start date
Geezerbiker
New member
The Ed that came up with Ed's Red said he lubed his guns with ATF so I tried it about 20 years ago and I've not used anything else since. It's cheap and since I use it in my truck, I always have a little left over. I've also found that it makes a good lube for drilling and tapping holes.
Tony
Tony
gearchecker
New member
The rong grease can bring very bad results
Treg,
The answer is an absolute YES!..
Many of the first M-1 Garands were issued a grease cup with them and the soldiers used it regularly. But not knowing it the grease was very sensitive to cold temps & moisture. The Garands would freeze up from the grease holding moisture after the barrel was warmed from firing, and then had condensation collect on the rifle as it cooled.
It's sad to say but we certainly lost some troops to lock-up and bolt 's gumming up in WWII, and those losses were directly attributable to the type of grease used in the Garand's.
The recommend lubricant/grease for the M-1 Garand's is Lubriplate #130-A.
I have an M-1 and I bought a pint of the Lubriplate because it was less expensive than what guys are charging for 6-8 tiny grease pots, even on eBay. I paid $14 for a pint of it shipped.
Regards,
Gearchecker
Treg,
The answer is an absolute YES!..
Many of the first M-1 Garands were issued a grease cup with them and the soldiers used it regularly. But not knowing it the grease was very sensitive to cold temps & moisture. The Garands would freeze up from the grease holding moisture after the barrel was warmed from firing, and then had condensation collect on the rifle as it cooled.
It's sad to say but we certainly lost some troops to lock-up and bolt 's gumming up in WWII, and those losses were directly attributable to the type of grease used in the Garand's.
The recommend lubricant/grease for the M-1 Garand's is Lubriplate #130-A.
I have an M-1 and I bought a pint of the Lubriplate because it was less expensive than what guys are charging for 6-8 tiny grease pots, even on eBay. I paid $14 for a pint of it shipped.
Regards,
Gearchecker
Huh?Tactical Jackalope
New member
Hoppes No.9
However...I'm starting to get annoyed. I don't know if it's the heat here in Miami or what it is. But the lube drips all the way down to the front of the gun and the front of the slide is wet with lube. The inside then doesn't look to be lubed. It's kind of aggravating.
When I had the little tube of gun grease that came with my SIG I never had that issue. I'm thinking about going to gun grease instead.
However...I'm starting to get annoyed. I don't know if it's the heat here in Miami or what it is. But the lube drips all the way down to the front of the gun and the front of the slide is wet with lube. The inside then doesn't look to be lubed. It's kind of aggravating.
When I had the little tube of gun grease that came with my SIG I never had that issue. I'm thinking about going to gun grease instead.
Absolutely yes. Dan Wesson was building 1911s so tight that those using just CLP had their slides seize up. Using a lubricant with better viscosity helped, FP-10 or Mobil One. DW now ships their pistols with a bit of lubricant believed to be FP-10.
I used to use grease on the rails of my 1911s but noticed slower cycling in cold weather, though there was no actual failure. I switched to an oil that would stay on the slides.
There have been lubes recomended on this thread that are definately not cheap - I guess I'm guilty too cuz I mentioned Lubriplate SFL-0 which is $2.15/oz in the 14oz cans.
But just on the cheap side:
Generic ATF VI - $5.00/qt - 16¢ / oz
Generic EP multi-duty hi-temp NGLI#2 grease - $3.50/16oz can - 22¢ / oz
But just on the cheap side:
Generic ATF VI - $5.00/qt - 16¢ / oz
Generic EP multi-duty hi-temp NGLI#2 grease - $3.50/16oz can - 22¢ / oz
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Aguila Blanca
Staff
Putting molybdenum powder into oil does not generate a chemical reaction.danez71 said:
If you take a glass of water and sprinkle a bit of play sand into it, would you characterize that as a chemical experiment?
Chemistry: The science of the composition, structure, properties, and reactions of matter.
No. It wouldnt really be an "experiment" because the 'reactions of those two matters' is already known.
I also wouldnt compare 'sand in water' to any of the lubricants talked about here either. I think the ingredients lists are a bit different.
There are several different kinds "metal-greases"
Lithium and Molybdenum are frequently used.
Copper is sometimes used – it is the base for the glittery copper-colored “anti-seize” grease that Glock applies to their pistols before shipping.
Aluminum is also used in some grease.
Lead makes a fantastic grease base, really great, unfortunately it’s toxic.
Fine Moly dust is often added to oil or grease. Moly dust particles suspended in a petroleum acts as a thickener and increases lubricity. Without the metallic elements in the solution – the petroleum portion would simply squish out between the two surfaces. While not necesary for the firearm application, the molybdenum also increases the temperature range that the lubricant remains effective at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide#cite_note-3
Lithium and Molybdenum are frequently used.
Copper is sometimes used – it is the base for the glittery copper-colored “anti-seize” grease that Glock applies to their pistols before shipping.
Aluminum is also used in some grease.
Lead makes a fantastic grease base, really great, unfortunately it’s toxic.
Fine Moly dust is often added to oil or grease. Moly dust particles suspended in a petroleum acts as a thickener and increases lubricity. Without the metallic elements in the solution – the petroleum portion would simply squish out between the two surfaces. While not necesary for the firearm application, the molybdenum also increases the temperature range that the lubricant remains effective at:
If the Molybdenum particles are not fine enough however, then the oil or grease actually becomes abrasive – sort of the equivalent of rubbing compound.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide#cite_note-3
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One of the things that bugs me is that the technology exists to evaluate the effectiveness of various lubricants for firearms use but there is no economic incentive to test the so-called "gun" lubes, or test the various industrial and automotive lubes for the firearm application.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pin_on_disc_tester
We have existing testing equipment and the ability to create specific testing equipment for very specific machines.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pin_on_disc_tester
We have existing testing equipment and the ability to create specific testing equipment for very specific machines.
Cheapshooter
New member
Reminds me of something I read when I first started riding motorcycles years ago. "If you got a $5 head, stick it in a $5 helmet, otherwise buy a good one!"
Are you going to lube a good "cheap" gun?
I hate to ruin a healthy debate with a fundamental question BUT for the guns we all shoot (i.e. excluding M60's and mini-guns) does the type of lube matter one bit when we talk about wearing out? In other words what is the failure mode of a gun with 20,000 rounds through it? or 100,000 rounds?
My perspective is that lube does not have a whole lot to do with guns wearing out, as most of the wear occurs in areas where there is metal to metal battering of the parts causing wear, not surface to surface sliding or rotating wear. Think about it... in a 1911 by the time you have REALLY worn the slide to frame fit on a 1911 what are the barrel lugs and lock up going to look like? Ever know anyone with a 1911 that had a "little tight" slide to frame fit? It might go an easy 10k rounds before one notes a change in slide to frame fit. Likewise when lockup and groups degrade in a 1911 often fitting a new barrel that locks up tight fixes this without touching the frame to slide fit.
Likewise when revolvers go out of time, have frames that are streatched, etc. is this a condition that lubrication would have fixed or helped with? I don't think so, again it's more about parts battering one another and high round counts than a rotating shaft, gear, sliding fit becoming worn to the point of not being serviciable.
Is lube important for a gun to function? Yes, I pick my lubes for carry guns based on them staying where I put them and keeping the gun functioning, and hopefully making cleaning easier. At the same time I know that no matter what I pack in the the lug area of my 1911 it is not going to change the fact that the metal parts batter against each other.
So as interesting as it might be to test one lube against another, I am not sure that even if one lube "protected" twice as good as the other if it would matter much or translate to a 2x increase in the service life of guns lubed with the better lube.
My perspective is that lube does not have a whole lot to do with guns wearing out, as most of the wear occurs in areas where there is metal to metal battering of the parts causing wear, not surface to surface sliding or rotating wear. Think about it... in a 1911 by the time you have REALLY worn the slide to frame fit on a 1911 what are the barrel lugs and lock up going to look like? Ever know anyone with a 1911 that had a "little tight" slide to frame fit? It might go an easy 10k rounds before one notes a change in slide to frame fit. Likewise when lockup and groups degrade in a 1911 often fitting a new barrel that locks up tight fixes this without touching the frame to slide fit.
Likewise when revolvers go out of time, have frames that are streatched, etc. is this a condition that lubrication would have fixed or helped with? I don't think so, again it's more about parts battering one another and high round counts than a rotating shaft, gear, sliding fit becoming worn to the point of not being serviciable.
Is lube important for a gun to function? Yes, I pick my lubes for carry guns based on them staying where I put them and keeping the gun functioning, and hopefully making cleaning easier. At the same time I know that no matter what I pack in the the lug area of my 1911 it is not going to change the fact that the metal parts batter against each other.
So as interesting as it might be to test one lube against another, I am not sure that even if one lube "protected" twice as good as the other if it would matter much or translate to a 2x increase in the service life of guns lubed with the better lube.
Cheapshooter
New member
This may irk some but...I don't know what they do before, and after the shoot at Knob Creek, but behind the line there are gallons of WD40 being used when the range goes cold!!!
Aguila Blanca
Staff
As a lubricant, or as a cleaner?Cheapshooter said:
You do realize, I hope, that WD-40 is essentially kerosene (mineral spirits) and paraffin ... right? And you do realize that the "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacer," right?
Cheapshooter
New member
Don't know exactly why, but most of the guys on the line spray everything down with WD40 between sessions. All over the gun. Into the actions, Down the bore. Everywhere. Maybe because they use so much surplus ammo it might help with the corrosive primer residue. Like I said, I don't know why, they just do.
Cheapshooter
New member
Oh, and by the way, does it ever smell great steaming off a couple hundred hot machine guns!