sigarms228
New member
Can you get wheel bearing grease at an auto supply shop?? Lots have used that with great results. Mobil 1 and Lucas or Lucas marine grease often get mentioned but not sure what you would have available in your area.
Durability&Longevity of aluminum alloy frame pistols (Taurus PT 92/Beretta 92)
- Thread starter TheGuyOfSouthamerica
- Start date
TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
I hope I will have on Hand next week or so the pistol.
Locally that one I posted is one of the best availlable Options.
Grayguns recommended me a small tube of speciall gun grease which was over 50$ as I can recall it.
I don't know. That is way to expensice.
As well I hope I can finally Import a can of gun powder.
If it arrives then I am able to reload over 12000 rounds of 9mm Luger or over 3300 rounds of 12 ga. I went with H*****n C***s since it is fast burning, uses therefore less powder and is more economical.
If someone has a recipe for Hodgedon Clays for (good defense rounds):
380 acp
9mm Luger
38 spl
357 mag
I would be thankfull.
Locally that one I posted is one of the best availlable Options.
Grayguns recommended me a small tube of speciall gun grease which was over 50$ as I can recall it.
I don't know. That is way to expensice.
As well I hope I can finally Import a can of gun powder.
If it arrives then I am able to reload over 12000 rounds of 9mm Luger or over 3300 rounds of 12 ga. I went with H*****n C***s since it is fast burning, uses therefore less powder and is more economical.
If someone has a recipe for Hodgedon Clays for (good defense rounds):
380 acp
9mm Luger
38 spl
357 mag
I would be thankfull.
Jim Watson
New member
Many people get excited over gun products for guns, not realizing that they are just industrial lubricants in small packages at high prices.
Grant Cunningham recommends food grade Lubriplate. If you can't get that reasonably, automotive lithium grease will work quite well. I have some molybdenum disulfide doped grease used on cotton pickers that makes my automatic slides move smoothly.
I cannot provide a "recipe" for each of your uses. You can look up load data at their site and apply handloading principles to "work up" loads.
I caution you that the fast burning that makes Clays so economical will work against you in some places. You will not get full power 9mm P or .357 Magnum at reasonable pressures.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
Grant Cunningham recommends food grade Lubriplate. If you can't get that reasonably, automotive lithium grease will work quite well. I have some molybdenum disulfide doped grease used on cotton pickers that makes my automatic slides move smoothly.
I cannot provide a "recipe" for each of your uses. You can look up load data at their site and apply handloading principles to "work up" loads.
I caution you that the fast burning that makes Clays so economical will work against you in some places. You will not get full power 9mm P or .357 Magnum at reasonable pressures.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
I ask about Hodgdon Clays since there are NO data for:
380 acp
38 spl +P
9mm is indeed low velocity at between 800 to 990 fps for an 124 grain bullet. Pretty slow.
Even for 357 mag are there a load data at 1200 fps for an 135 grain bullet at 5 grain but no data for heavier bullets like my 148 WC.
I would appreciate if someone would have proven data for 380 acp, 148 grain WC 357 Magnum, 38 spl +P and as well proven in Praxis loading 9mm Luger 124 grain with Hodgdon Clays.
380 acp
38 spl +P
9mm is indeed low velocity at between 800 to 990 fps for an 124 grain bullet. Pretty slow.
Even for 357 mag are there a load data at 1200 fps for an 135 grain bullet at 5 grain but no data for heavier bullets like my 148 WC.
I would appreciate if someone would have proven data for 380 acp, 148 grain WC 357 Magnum, 38 spl +P and as well proven in Praxis loading 9mm Luger 124 grain with Hodgdon Clays.
Jim Watson
New member
I cannot either. Clays is too fast for them.
Perhaps it would have been better to look at load data before ordering hard to get powder.
Perhaps it would have been better to look at load data before ordering hard to get powder.
TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
So you are a cotton grower? Jim Watson.
So was I a few years ago. The price drop, huge costs and no subventions here got me allmost broke besides my uncles bestole the company and as detected rapidly wanted to split.
I allways tvougth for short barrels 380 acp you need a quick burning powder.
It is Ok if the 9mm and 357 mag have the power levels of an 9mm Glisenti of about 300 lbs-ft.
So was I a few years ago. The price drop, huge costs and no subventions here got me allmost broke besides my uncles bestole the company and as detected rapidly wanted to split.
I allways tvougth for short barrels 380 acp you need a quick burning powder.
It is Ok if the 9mm and 357 mag have the power levels of an 9mm Glisenti of about 300 lbs-ft.
Jim Watson
New member
I am not a cotton grower, but as a chemical engineer I did research on fertilizers suitable.
Not to pick on the OP but I always laugh at these goofy threads people start asking about wearing out any modern pistol no matter what the material is. If you're asking you don't shoot enough, not even close. Not only that but if you have $10K to spend on ammo to "wear" out a $800 pistol God bless you, certainly you have gotten your monies worth out of it.
It's very similar to asking if you can get 600K miles out of your Camry.
It's very similar to asking if you can get 600K miles out of your Camry.
TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
This “el cheapo“ Taurus PT 92 pistol cost here around 1300$ of hard earned money. Not even asking how much an Beretta 92 would cost here.
The allway cheapening of the pistol construction can get even to unsafe levels like plastik rails for the slide or one-magazine shot pistols (pistol is rated to empy one mag to be thrown away then).
If an all steel pistol used to shoot 150K rounds and an polymer one is rated to 70K rounds and an aluminum frame one rated to only 35K that gives an history of downturning durability.
If the market goes more competitive even further the cheapening could go.
That is the reason I asked.
The allway cheapening of the pistol construction can get even to unsafe levels like plastik rails for the slide or one-magazine shot pistols (pistol is rated to empy one mag to be thrown away then).
If an all steel pistol used to shoot 150K rounds and an polymer one is rated to 70K rounds and an aluminum frame one rated to only 35K that gives an history of downturning durability.
If the market goes more competitive even further the cheapening could go.
That is the reason I asked.
TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
The only gun availlable for CZ brand is the CZ P-09.
That gun has an polymer frame and is not that ligth with its over 30 oz. But still it is again an plastik gun an not even stainless.
I wonder if the polymer frame is steel reinforced.
The CZ P 09 is here about 1000$.
That gun has an polymer frame and is not that ligth with its over 30 oz. But still it is again an plastik gun an not even stainless.
I wonder if the polymer frame is steel reinforced.
The CZ P 09 is here about 1000$.
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TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
In reality it is.
~ 1820's Steel costs more to work.
1950's Then aluminum I assume cost more to work as well than the later plastik.
1975's Then polymer ist the least costly to manufacture and work with.
I figure aluminum is expensier to produce and work than polymer. Hence todays pistols should be about 1/3 to 1/4 of the steel guns price.
Should manufacturers get financial stress then they are simply cheapening further the frames of plastik pistols to have some margins. My SD9VE I could press in with my hand the grip causing it to flex. That polymer was not that thick. On most parts I could flex easily the frame of that pistol. I believe with the 1980 Glocks you would not have done that.
~ 1820's Steel costs more to work.
1950's Then aluminum I assume cost more to work as well than the later plastik.
1975's Then polymer ist the least costly to manufacture and work with.
I figure aluminum is expensier to produce and work than polymer. Hence todays pistols should be about 1/3 to 1/4 of the steel guns price.
Should manufacturers get financial stress then they are simply cheapening further the frames of plastik pistols to have some margins. My SD9VE I could press in with my hand the grip causing it to flex. That polymer was not that thick. On most parts I could flex easily the frame of that pistol. I believe with the 1980 Glocks you would not have done that.
After reading your original post again I want to point out a couple things to help put your mind to rest a little. Compared to most of the components of a pistol the frame sees very little stress. Exactly why you can make a frame out of aluminum and there are very few slides made out of aluminum. You have read an aluminum frame is only good for 35K, that is total BS.
There is a well respected LEO on another forum that has a documented 325K rounds through a Sig 229 in .40 with an aluminum frame. Almost every part has been changed at least once except the frame. I'm a huge fan of grease on any aluminum framed pistol. I use Slide Glide marketed by Brian Enos but any grease will work just fine, some are messier than others though. Way too many people get caught up in the whole which is the best oil or grease to use but they all do a pretty good job. Grease is simply oil with some binding agent to help it stay in place a little better.
Shoot your new pistol and enjoy it but to worry about it breaking it is just foolish. The PT-92 is one of the best units Taurus has ever produced.
There is a well respected LEO on another forum that has a documented 325K rounds through a Sig 229 in .40 with an aluminum frame. Almost every part has been changed at least once except the frame. I'm a huge fan of grease on any aluminum framed pistol. I use Slide Glide marketed by Brian Enos but any grease will work just fine, some are messier than others though. Way too many people get caught up in the whole which is the best oil or grease to use but they all do a pretty good job. Grease is simply oil with some binding agent to help it stay in place a little better.
Shoot your new pistol and enjoy it but to worry about it breaking it is just foolish. The PT-92 is one of the best units Taurus has ever produced.
But not in terms of durability, by your own admission of round counts.
But you don't know that. I can flex the frame on my Glock if I press in hard enough. People have also explained to you on a number of threads that the frame itself is far less important than the steel rails that ride in the frame. But you either don't listen, or don't care to learn.
TheGuyOfSouthamerica
Moderator
I am already fine with the alu Frame.
Another thought.
Why would the manufacturers not imbed steel rails in the aluminum Frame as they do it in polymer?
I mean that would be the perfect pistol which never ever would crack a Frame, isn't it?
Another thought.
Why would the manufacturers not imbed steel rails in the aluminum Frame as they do it in polymer?
I mean that would be the perfect pistol which never ever would crack a Frame, isn't it?
First I doubt it could be done and second whats the point? The gun will last for many thousands of rounds like it is. You are one lucky dude if you get to shoot enough to wear out a gun. And if you wanted long life and durability you should have bought a Glock.
I have went back and read several of your reloading threads where you are getting powder from shotgun shells and assume you know the burning rate and amount to load in a handgun case. I gotta tell ya there ain't no way in h*ll I would shoot any of your loads. And the biggest danger to your new gun is not wearing it out but blowing it up.
You stated you learned to reload from the internet. Do you own an actual reloading book? Powders burn differently when loaded to different pressures. Shotgun shells are loaded to low pressure. You can't just assume that same powder that works at 8000 CUP will be safe at 22,000 PSI and on up.
I have went back and read several of your reloading threads where you are getting powder from shotgun shells and assume you know the burning rate and amount to load in a handgun case. I gotta tell ya there ain't no way in h*ll I would shoot any of your loads. And the biggest danger to your new gun is not wearing it out but blowing it up.
You stated you learned to reload from the internet. Do you own an actual reloading book? Powders burn differently when loaded to different pressures. Shotgun shells are loaded to low pressure. You can't just assume that same powder that works at 8000 CUP will be safe at 22,000 PSI and on up.
I have a 92D with a few thousand through it.
While I don't shoot the 92D as much as some of my other 9's, it has still gotten a few thousand rounds run through it in the last 17 years.
The only spots where the anodizing is rubbed off is on the underside of the frame rails.
The steel slide shows almost no wear.
They may not be embedding steel rails in an aluminum frame due to cost issues, or it may be that the two dissimilar metals react and cause problems like the aluminum cracking due to corrosion where the steel meets the aluminum.
While I don't shoot the 92D as much as some of my other 9's, it has still gotten a few thousand rounds run through it in the last 17 years.
The only spots where the anodizing is rubbed off is on the underside of the frame rails.
The steel slide shows almost no wear.
They may not be embedding steel rails in an aluminum frame due to cost issues, or it may be that the two dissimilar metals react and cause problems like the aluminum cracking due to corrosion where the steel meets the aluminum.