What's Bad About Wolf Ammo?

Wolf ammo is indeed cheap. And as with many things you get what you pay for. It is fine if you want to just plink with it but plan on a SERIOUS tear down cleaning. I had a Russian SKS that I fired some Wolf through. I had just bought it, used of course, but I always tear apart and clean, soak used guns when I buy them. I had it sparkling clean AND YES, DRY and only shot three twenty round boxes through it, upon removing the gas tube to clean the piston I had CLUMPS of carbon crumble out onto the table. I dont care what the box or anyone else says, IT IS CORROSIVE AND NASTY. Will never buy again.
 
Although dirty, wolf is not corrosive.
And it was probably made at the same factory that sks was made at.
Training ammo, fine, defense, comp, or match grade, no.
 
I've used wolff ammo for training for years in glocks, beretta and now my HK USP without a single problem. If you use it for training specialy SD ranges I can't see any difference between Wolff or Speers in my guns.
Most shotting range doesn't allow them because they don't want to bother sorting stell from brass when they sell the brass, period.

Steel cases from wolff ammo won't destroy any extractor from any gun even the cheapest since the steel used for cases is way softer than any extractor on the market...
For the dirt side, yes they're a bit more dirty than other clean fire or so on, but I clean my guns after every shooting trip so no worry about it...
Since I've started in my shooting life, I've seen quiet some guns blow up with modern expensive ammo, **** happen, even with expensive stuff...
 
Steel cases from wolff ammo won't destroy any extractor from any gun even the cheapest since the steel used for cases is way softer than any extractor on the market...

I'd say that the extractor in my Lorcin .380 is almost as soft as the steel used in Wolf's cases. But, then again, even the softest brass will break those.:D
 
The powers that be for my department have decreed that no reloads or Wolf are to be used in issue weapons. No reason given.
 
The powers that be for my department have decreed that no reloads or Wolf are to be used in issue weapons. No reason given.
So buy one just like it?
I'd say that the extractor in my Lorcin .380 is almost as soft as the steel used in Wolf's cases. But, then again, even the softest brass will break those.
Oddly enough one of the .380s I tested Wolf on was my L380, and while it fed fired and extracted fine for the one magazine I fed it: The beech face took one hell of a beating. Same damage on my Bryco 48. I fired one round through a Bryco 38, and it showed on the breech face.
I also tried it through my Hi Point CF 380 and Cobra CA-380 with with the following results:
The Hi Point experienced a few that fed very slowly. No breech face damage, although the firing pin needed to be replaced after two boxes of wolf.
It must be masochism that caused me to shoot two boxes and the remainder of a third the the CA-380 (I bought five boxes total). It started with a couple of feed and eject problems per magazine, but settled down as the shoot progressed. I didn't experience any physical damage to the gun from the shoot, although I did experience damage to my trigger finger... most likely from the trigger guard.
I do think Wolf .380 kicks harder than commercial .380
 
I didn't know that wolf made .380 If I could get my hands on a few boxes cheap, I'd like to take that Lorcin out and torture test it. I basically use it to practice polishing parts, feed ramp and anything else that I feel the need to polish. It's either a complete piece of junk by now or a finely tuned piece of Zamak.
 
My local range sells brass to a recycler / so they don't allow any steel cases.

Wolf is also real smokey ...like lead bullets ...and my local range does not allow any "lead" bullets .....

Personally, I don't think there is any risk to your weapon / but its just dirty ...so I wouldn't shoot it.
 
The powers that be for my department have decreed that no reloads or Wolf are to be used in issue weapons. No reason given.

The Wolf .40S&W I have used is certainly lower power then the more name brand ammo and for a service weapon I would certainly want you to use a full power load. It makes it nice to shoot at the range, but I would rather have more power for SD use, if I wanted less power I would have bought a 9mm
 
<<The powers that be for my department have decreed that no reloads or Wolf are to be used in issue weapons. No reason given.>>

<<So buy one just like it?>>

I did buy one just like it and I shoot my reloads with it. No reason to buy Wolf as my reloads are cheaper.

I was just providing another data point for the OP.
 
I bought two cases of Wolf 9mm a couple years ago. I've gone through 1600 rounds in a Beretta 92FS without so much as a hic-up. As for accuracy, well it's as good or better then WWB and CCI Blazer, for me anyhow.

I just bought two cases of Wolf .223 last week, but haven't shot any yet. Will be placing an order for another case of 9mm in April.

What wouldn't I shoot it in? Well it's not going in my M1911 with the Kart barrel, that's for sure. Otherwise, I'd shoot it in just about anything I have.
 
Wolf is fun! At least twice a week, I have to break open someone's fancypants botique AR-15, drop a cleaning rod down the muzzle end, and hammer out a stuck Wolf casing.

Then I get to give the "don't screw up your $1500 rifle by saving $1.50 on ammo" lecture.

What's really fun is dealing with a bolt override and a steel casing. Whee!

I also find myself doing it with 1911's.

I can't imagine those steel casings are very good to the extractor, either.
 
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