triple 7...

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=4098Old Dragoon, Here is the Remington I was talking about. It has an adjustable front sight but the rear is just like our's. A friend of mine bought one of these at a gun show a few years ago. The guy who sold it to him had no idea what he was selling, he said he found it in his garage and felt that he should get $200.00 for it. My friend paid the guy so fast I think he scared the poor old boy! :) The gun was in the original box and had never been fired. So I guess you never know when you buy second hand from an auction, Garage sale or gun show.
 
I'll slug both bbls and measure the lands and grooves. I believe that the operative word here is Tapered. I do not think my bbls are tapered. If so. So slight as to not look like it to the naked eye?
I also don't think I'm that lucky. DUH!
I have the new one all apart and stripped, and the frame ported. cleaning up the port right now. and will start browning this evening and tomorrow. The new one was mint out of the box. Not fired or cyl. turned. now the whole thing is in the white.

OK I'm editing this post about 9:00 p.m. Pacific time.

I measured the bbls and they are tapered. .715 at the frame, and .992 at the muzzle. I had to feel the flats to realize that they were indeed tapered. Then I mic'd them. I haven't slugged them yet, as i was refinishing the new one.
 
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I'm back. Had to do deer season, then had 4 deer to cut up, then had a friend die and then got the flu or something. Had a lot of catching up to do here.

Gmatov, I've never used Bore Butter but I bet it's olive oil mixed with some other ingredients. I use olive oil and beeswax for all kinds of stuff. A 50-50 mix works well but you can increase the oil and decrease the wax (or mutton fat, whatever you're mixing) and get a thinner end product for cold weather shooting. I have an old .177 pellet plastic box I fill with the melted mixture for carrying in my accessory pouch. After it solidifies, you can test it for ease of use at the temperature you will be using it in. If it's too stiff, pop it out of the box and re-melt it but add more olive oil. You can eventually get it how you want it. I use a stick kinda like an ice cream stick to scoop it out of the box and put it in the front of the chambers. That mixture is the only thing I ever put down the bores of my B.P. rifles. I warm the barrels and lubricate with it after cleaning.

Steve
 
Lands and Grooves new '58

The lands measure .125 as near as I can tell. The grooves measure .088
I'll have to check out the first one tomorrow, but I'd bet they are the same.
 
Steve, the whole thread has been intereting.

Glad to hear from you. The Bore Butter gets damned hard if you don't keep it in your armpit.

Why I mentioned the "lube pill" that Wayne, over at the Voy forums espouses. Chamber diameter, beeswax, oil, paraffin, in the proper mix, punch 'em out with a cutter to fit your chambers.

Soft enough to either mash 'em in before the powder, or mash 'em over the ball, depending on the temperature. Mebbe for winter shootin' a little more oil.

Just finished my cheap olive oil, don't wanna use my Extra Virgin for this. But, do need more plain old cookin' quality, so mebbe tomorrow.

Cheers,

George

BTW, Bore Butter tube says all edible product, so you're right on that. 7 bucks for 6 ounces do suck though, don't it?
 
With the bore butter (I use wonder lube) I like to ad real bees wax, a litttle candle wax and some olive oil untel I get the consistencie I like . For about $10.00 I can get 2 quorts of the stuff and it has lasted me for many years and will for many more.
Made some pills and still have them but believe me when I say they don't work well over the powder. When I use them that way it always contaminates the powder when you compress the ball and pill and powder togeather my Remingtons just go "POP" instead of "B-A-N-G" :)
The pills I made are about 1/8" so I started useing them over the ball. Works great! Just press one over the ball with your thumb and your good to go.
 
I may just have to try those pills! Any idea about a good way to carry them in an accessory pouch and keep them from clumping together?

Steve
 
My New Remington almost done

Guys here is the new Remington. I still have a couple sessions left to get it where the other one is, or close, but you'll get the idea. the Ivories are from Grip.com and they color pretty well.
Right
NewRemington-Right-1.jpg


Left
newRemington-left-1.jpg


The Avenging Angels Right
BothRemingtonsRight-1.jpg



The Avenging Angels Left
BothRemingtonsLeft-1.jpg


The new Remmy seems to have had some action work done as it is SMOOOOTH and the Hammer spring appears to have been worked also, that or this action is the best right from the box. No rough edges at all no marks on the hammer just really smooth.

My only gripe with the new one is that the cylinder is a witch to get back into the frame. I'll work on the hand a bit to ease that up. The Konverter works great in both so I know it is the hand hanging up the cylinder going back in the frame. Now to get another Konverter and antique the first one's BP cylinder. Then I'm good to go.
 
dragoon,they both look great!! i have to get me one of those conversion cylinders.i like the frist better than the r&d i think.i like the way the breech ring looks.
 
Thanks Guys.
I just ordered the Kirst ejector assy's for both. Will order the 44 Rem. Kirst Konverter in a couple weeks for the second one. Plan to antique the remaining BP cylinder when I do the ejector assy's. ....cause right now it's fully loaded and just waiting to be shot. I think I may buy the gated version this time. Depends on the cost.

Now I start looking for the '58 Rem revolving rifle. There was one on Gunbroker a week or so ago but it was full price, There was another one that the guy wanted $275.00 or so for it and it had been shot one cylinder full. It was a Pietta too from Cabela's. It was the week that I bought the Konverter.
 
Old Dragoon
Very nice job on antiquating the ivory and the metal.
I’m impressed. You do good work. Tell us more on the
how to part. Maybe start a new post. I know that I
would like more information on the why and wherefores.

Happy Holidays
 
MPP1423,

I'm getting my Kirst Konverters from River Junction Trade Co., their prices are online here:

http://www.riverjunction.com/kirst/index.html

I'm paying retail but Jim gives great service and quick delivery. 4 days to California from McGregor Iowa. probably a day quicker to your location.
He is the first retailer to sell the Kirst line. He is a personal friend of Walter Kirst. I had the pleasure to meet Jim a few years back at a K.C. Gun Collectors Show. Really nice guy.and they have about anything pertaining to our sport that you might want.

You'll see that the 44 Rem converter is less expensive than the gated version with the ejector assy. Even with the ejector assy. You can port the recoil ring yourself, like I do and save some bucks. No the bullets won't fall out due to the timing of the cylinder and beveling of the recoil shield picks up any that might slip back before that first shot. After the first shot the cartridges swell in the chamber anyway(every Revolver works this way but you never think of it because you have a gate or shield).

I reload 44 Mag, 44 Colt and now 44 Rem. loading of the Colt cartridge. That is why I went this way. That, and the fact that the 44 Rem. Konverter is a full six shot and not a 5 and 1(safety). I can choose which chamber I want to leave empty. It bugs me that others can make that choice for you. (Reason I took the plug out of my Birdshead gripped Colt Clone from Uberti. Darn it I will make the decision which chamber to leave empty...or fill them all if I want to. (not for SASS though).

I have the prices for the moulds from Old West Moulds, also their special crimper and lube/sizer(both fit and their 248 grn bullets now too. I'll send them to anyone that wants them by private email, or the private message on this forum. Old West is very competitive he'll reload once fired with BP or Smokeless, he'll size and lube bullets or let you size and lube, he provides soft lube for BP and hard lube for Smokeless(the 44 rem loaded colt 44 brass is smokeless but soft outside lubed).

tinker2,
I started a new how to thread for you.

I'd be glad to Antique one for you.
 
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Steve,

From what I understand, the pills are kinda separate when they harden , most of them that use them use an Altoids tin or the like. No reason a baggie wouldn't work. They're supposed to be hard enough to remain separate, but soft enough to mash on top of a bll in the chamber. Or under, if you like.

I think RK is using another mixture, more oily to soak the powder.

Cheers,

George
 
Gerorge, The mixture I used for the pills is not very oilie but I think I create a problem with contamination due to the fact that I shoot 40g of fffg. It takes a lot of preasure to compress this load and you are really mashing or squeezing the pill in to the powder.Can't help for the powder to get mashed in with the pill. They may work grate for light loads or if someone wanted to use just wax to make them. Even then I believe it would be impossiable not to contaminate the powder if you let it sit for any length of time.
 
Rem, If you make them a little thinner, like 1/16, and mash 'em down on top of the ball, you still got a seal, and you still have lube (Hey, you are driving the ball down the barrel with some kind of grease in front of it.) Next ball does the same, more lube.

You are makin' them mashable, aren't you, not like a disc of paraffin? That stuff is hard as a rock at room temp.

Cheers,

George
 
George, They work great over the ball and it makes them easy to use that way. I still use my wool wad over the powder and like the lube (pill) just to help keep things running smooth. Never did like a lubed wad or lube over the powder but thought I would try it again after reading an artical on another site. It works fine if your not going to let the powder sit for a while.
When I head for the woods a couple days a week my Remington is on my side but it may be a week or more before I dispatch a snake or a mean old pine cone:) By then the powder is really contaminated.
Also it's my belieaf that you can get the lube to waxie and then it serves no purpose as a cleaner or lube but seals the chamber from chain fire only and helps gum up the works as melted wax would do.
 
I used to use bore butter over the ball, but the heat of the first shot melted it all out of the end of every chamber and I was left with basically no lube. I didn't want to pay for the wonder wads, so I bought some vegetable fiber wads from cabela's...I think there were 1000 of them in the box I bought. I seat one of those over the powder (dry) and then put just a little bore butter over the top, then seat the ball and that has worked wonders for keeping the gun lubed up while I'm shooting, (no more locked up cylinder after 10 or so shots).
I'll leave a cylinder loaded that way for a week or so and then shoot it out and see if it goes BOOM or pop, and let you guys know the results. I'm hoping that the dry wad insulates the charge from the lube as long as I don't use so much grease that seating the ball oozes it past the wad into the powder.

edited to complete my thought process, :)
 
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I think this is the big thing with the pills, they ain't Bore Butter, I mean so soft that the blast from the chamber fired blows it off the adjacent chambers.

If you have to force the balls into the chambers, shave lead, I don't think there is a chance in hell you will get a chain fire from the chamber end of the cylinder.

Loose caps, the other end, more likely. Think I have read a few posts on other sites to say so. Loose caps can blow off, leave the nipples open, fire can enter, fire the next chamber.

Cheers,

george
 
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