So much for the promise Ruger will fix their firearms

Buy the new Ruger for $389.00 Keep it unused. Send it to my FFL dealer and I will give you the $389 plus $50.00 for your trouble. Thanks!:D
 
When you load on a Dillon progressive press, you can load large amounts of ammunition fairly quickly. Have read where some people know the exact number of rounds they shoot. I don't keep track. Have a general idea of how many primers I buy each year. Estimates are based upon the number of primers I purchase and how much I fire a particular firearm. Can't do better than a rough estimate. The GP101 is simply the model number for the blued version of the 357 with the 4" barrel. Each variation is technically a different model number. The website will give info for each variant. The GP100 was the first double action I owned. After sending it back to Ruger to have the cylinder gap repaired (prior to ever shooting the revolver), I found the revolver doubled on me. There is a part of me that says this is not possible. It happened perhaps 50-100 times. Quite a surprise each time it happened. Heard 2 reports but know I only pulled the trigger once. As the revolver started freezing up, the doubling went away. Was at one match where a spring compressed. The trigger would pull but the firing pin never engated. Took out the trigger group and massaged the spring - is that a crime? Spent most of the time shooting in competition. When at the firing line, had no idea how bad the revolver was spitting lead. Only realized it was spitting lead when I was doing a little informal shooting and my shooting partner started to complain. The pin to hold the grip to the rear frame can hardly be considered a major modification. Simply holding the grip onto the frame. The cylinder had to be polished out. The chamber hadn't been properly polished at the factory - a not uncommon occurance. Pay a local gunsmith $20 to polish the chamber or pay $78 shipping to ship back to Ruger. A no brainer for me. Yes, I replaced springs. Perhaps not as reliable - unsafe? No. Still doesn't affect the safety of the revolver or damage the revolver in any means. I never took a stone to the hammer or trigger. The cylinder latch definitely showed wear. A little flame cutting from using W231 but just starting. Have talked with numerous people at the gun club that have sent Smiths back for repair due to shooting heavy loads. Never heard of anyone being offered a new Smith. Cylinder probably needed replacing and the barrel set back or have the cylinder shimmed to decrease the cylinder gap. From what I'd heard, Smith somehow shims the barrel to reduce excessive cylinder gap. When it was sent back the cylinder gap was 0.009" I asked that it be returned to 0.004 to 0.006", as I planned on shooting it another 25K to 50K Revolvers are much like cars. In the 60s a 100,000 miles was a guarantee the car was at the end of its life. Today I expect my Ford F150 to last 250,000 miles with a little maintenance. You don't generally replace a vehicle because certain parts need replacing. The GP100 was thoroughly cleaned and lubricated each time it was shot. If a Glock will go 100,000 rounds, why not a sturdy revolver?
 
Without knowing the quality of the cylinder polishing job, it's hard to say whether you'd have been better off paying the shipping... but I suppose you would have been better off doing exactly that - assuming you couldn't get Ruger to send a shipping label.
 
Remember that time I bought that car for $20,000, then drove it 50,000 miles, then it was getting rickety so the car company offered me a new car for $10,000?

Me neither. Because that's not how businesses work.

Ruger did more than they had to, and I still consider their customer service easily in the elite tier. Sorry you don't.
 
Sorry to hear that you had an unsatisfactory interaction. Is it maybe because they've worked on the gun before?

I know that my experience with Ruger customer service has been exemplary. I had a minor problem, they went out of their way to fix it on their dime, and in an expedient and comprehensive fashion no less. Because of that I'm more than happy to tout their CS as being supreme.
 
Well, sounds like we are 'second' guessing here as Ruger never said 'why' the revolver needed to be replaced. We can infer (or can we?) the cost (Labor and Parts) of 'fixing' was more than the cost of a new one from Ruger's point of view. Either way the cost would (should) be passed onto the consumer unless it was a 'defect' problem.
 
"After sending it back to Ruger to have the cylinder gap repaired (prior to ever shooting the revolver), I found the revolver doubled on me. There is a part of me that says this is not possible. It happened perhaps 50-100 times. Quite a surprise each time it happened. Heard 2 reports but know I only pulled the trigger once. As the revolver started freezing up, the doubling went away."



I'm not exactly sure how this can occur :eek:, but it sounds as though the OP should have sent the revolver to Ruger for repair before now.

There is too much to this story which doesn't add up, so I'm just enjoying the ride and not taking any of this too seriously. ;)

Monty
 
The earlier statements that some manufacturers would not have received the same amount of support from readers, or would have been slammed, are undoubtedly true. Ruger just seems to be almost "bullet-proof" when it comes to criticism. I would suggest that the reason is probably that Ruger offers one of the better, if not the best combinations of fair price and good quality. That tends to foster brand loyalty. That's a good thing.

Given the circumstances, I would imagine that Ruger determined the firearm was beyond repair, and felt that a replacement at cost was a fair settlement. I can't believe that Ruger would make that offer if the firearm could have been repaired. It just wouldn't make sense financially.
 
Unless I missed it, I don't believe that you have called Ruger.

I'd call them and find out exactly what the problem is and why they won't fix it. Is the revolver dangerous or are their other reasons why it can't be fixed?

Once you get some more information we can all form a better opinion on Ruger's reaction to your revolver.
 
I wouldn't blame Ruger especially since you made some modifications to the pistol. I would jump on the new pistol price and walk away a happy man.....
 
Slamfire, the round count doesn't matter. He did his own mod to springs, fabricated his own pin, and had a gunsmith polish the cylinder.
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Springs, springs. People are better off using the factory springs. Been there and malfunctioned that.

Polishing the chambers, not necessarily a bad idea. My S&W's, Colts, USFA's, and modern Taurus, have mirror finishes. My Ruger single actions, the surface finish is rough, lots of reamer marks. That makes for stiff extraction.


I don't remember the pin thing.

Ruger revolvers are built like tanks and should shoot 250K rounds without having to replace anything but springs. Or grips if they crack. Transfer bars break, that's ok because they are highly stressed.

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I think talking about Ruger that way is like cussing your parents it shouldn’t be done …… I cracked a stock on a rifle sent it to them no questions ask sent me a new one.. You can please some of the people some of the time and some of the people none of the time... :rolleyes:
 
Slamfire said:
When do the posters in the thread consider a pistol worn out?
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Disregarding the non-Ruger modifications, IMHO "worn out" is when the frame has stretched enough that the barrel-cylinder gap is unsafe.

What's your definition?
 
I found the revolver doubled on me. There is a part of me that says this is not possible. It happened perhaps 50-100 times. Quite a surprise each time it happened. Heard 2 reports but know I only pulled the trigger once. As the revolver started freezing up, the doubling went away.
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That, I find highly suspect. The only time I've ever heard of a revolver doubling was when the S&W 500's first came out, and inexperienced shooters would pull the trigger a second time during the heavy recoil. As far as I know, it's damn near mechanically impossible for a revolver to double fire with a single pull of the trigger.

As another poster said earlier, there's always 3 sides to every story. We are only hearing one of them here, and it's a little suspect to say the least.
 
With Rugers big parts inparticular the cylinders it takes alot to get em going & alot to stop em !

If this GP was used primarily for speed shooting most likely the ejector & pawl was worn & latch notches beat out , now lets look at the other major components like the crane & cyl & the point where endshake is controlled .

Worn to the point where squaring it up would call for too many bushings (as there thin & wear qwikly)

Frame possible damage at the latch slot from stopping the cyl qwikly , cyl stop worn

Barrel throat erosion & they see possible metal fatigue around the barrel area that would render the frame unsuitable when installing a new 1.

& shooting 38 ammo does`nt matter ,ya can do the same damage sitting in the easy chair dry firing it

Trigger/hammer sear wear .

I did the same thing to a Colt Python , I paid .

I did the same thing to a S&W 586, I paid

Wish I was young enuff to try it on a GP100 !!

All GP100s are GP100s the model numbers for the 4" is 141, 6" 161 ;)

& I`m not Biased !!! I like all Rugers :p
 
That's a lot of reading I had to do.

I wonder if the OP read all that? I know he didn't fallow up on all the questions or comments.

My comment was, I didn't approve of him defacing the Rugar name, and then make them out to be the bad guys.

+1 - We have a winner. Anytime you modify a stock gun with non-OEM parts, you have voided any warranty. Ruger's inspection seems to have determined that and that MAYBE those modifications were part of the issue. Why should THEY fix something YOU did for free?
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I sent in my SP101 with a Wolff 9lbs hammer spring installed, they repaired it and replaced the Wolff spring with there 15lbs factory spring, and sent everything back to me no questions asked.

Any gun I treat as a "project," using non-OEM parts, and doing my own work, is one for which I assume full liability. Any possible damage done by a gunsmith that I, and not the manufacturer, chose is also on me.
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Yep, don't go out and buy a Ford Mustang, and then put a blower supercharger in it, and bring it back for warranty after you blow the motor.:D
 
After reading all the comments, I've decided to accept the offer of a heavily discounted new revolver. If the general sentiment is correct, it was a generous offer. PS. I'm not a person that dry fires for practice. 50K is absolute highest number. Actual number is probably closer to 25K. When I called up to accept the offer, was told the barrel and all internal parts need replacement. Seems only the receiver was deemed safe. Even the firing pin was deemed to be in need of replacement.
 
redbeard55 said:
After reading all the comments, I've decided to accept the offer of a heavily discounted new revolver. If the general sentiment is correct, it was a generous offer. PS. I'm not a person that dry fires for practice. 50K is absolute highest number. Actual number is probably closer to 25K. When I called up to accept the offer, was told the barrel and all internal parts need replacement. Seems only the receiver was deemed safe. Even the firing pin was deemed to be in need of replacement.
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Seriously one of the only times on Internet forums I've seen someone genuinely consider the options instead of just digging their heels in. Good call!

Leave the new one stock, and enjoy!
 
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