Smith and Wesson serial number search

pearlhandledmama, your gun sounds like a .38 Special Hand Ejector M&P. The serial numbers fall between the years 1915-1942, with the serial number range being 241704-700000. The book doesn't narrow it down any more than that.
 
A retired detective gave me his original duty weapon and and another revolver. I am trying to find out a little more about them; mfg. date, est. value. Both revolvers are in very good condition.

38 Special K549XXX

Model 66 89K2XXX

Can anybody help me?

Thanks.
 
38 Special K549XXX

Model 66 89K2XXX

K549XXX = 1963.
89K2XXX = 1980.
Value for each could be between $300 and $600 depending on actual condition, barrel length, model number on the 38 special, original grips/boxes/accessories, etc.

layton it is a 6 shot pearl handled crome or nickle plated im not sure which
Then, as tyusclan noted, it is a .38 Military and Police, Model of 1905, 4th Change. Your serial number of 537562 would be ~ late 1920's.

Jim
 
I have a Model 64-3, Serial number A14 814xx. Any help would be great.

I wouldn't mind hearing what the book list its value as. I paid 250 for it, and I'm happy with it regardless of what the book says. I would say its in fair condition, there is certaily some wear, on the grip and outside, but the barrel looks to be in great condition.

Here is a pic if anybody is interested.
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9945/dsc00158fh.jpg


Also, is this gun rated for +P ammo. My assumption would be yes, but I don't want to shoot any +P out of it until I can make 100% sure its rated for it.
 
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I have a Model 64-3, Serial number A14 814xx.
That's not the serial number. Remove the grips and it will be stamped on the underside of the frames grip butt.
Value is ~$350. Your grips, K/L frame square butt combats, are worth a few bucks themselves.
Per S&W: K frame revolvers chambered for 38 Special made prior to stamping of model numbers (pre 1958), "do not use +P".
Post 1958 is okay. Yours is post 1958.

Jim
 
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Lotsa stamps

I've had the grips off a few S&Ws before, but don't remember there being that many stamps. This is a Model 60 (no dash) in nickel or chrome or SS (I don't know which) with an assembly no.? of 68xxx. On the grip frame butt under the grips this no. is preceeded by A15 in a different 'font' entirely. Just above that is an A23. The S/N has an A18 after it, with an A14 above that where the A has been overstamped by an upside down S. There is another number stamped above this that is I12 (or the letter just too much off the edge of the grip frame to make out). All these markings have any meaning other than its having cleared various stages in the manufacturing process?
 
I've had the grips off a few S&Ws before, but don't remember there being that many stamps. This is a Model 60 (no dash) in nickel or chrome or SS (I don't know which) with an assembly no.? of 68xxx. On the grip frame butt under the grips this no. is preceeded by A15 in a different 'font' entirely. Just above that is an A23. The S/N has an A18 after it, with an A14 above that where the A has been overstamped by an upside down S. There is another number stamped above this that is I12 (or the letter just too much off the edge of the grip frame to make out). All these markings have any meaning other than its having cleared various stages in the manufacturing process?
A model 60 would be stainless steel. The serial number is stamped on the underside of the grip butt (see pic). The other numbers are assembly numbers.
swstandard.jpg

Can someone post some info on S&W revolver serial no. C532482---model, year of manufacture, etc?
C532482 would be 1961/62. "C" prefix SN's were used on model 10, 11, 12 and 45. If you open the cylinder you'll see the model number stamped on the frame (example in pic is a model 629-1).
mod-1.jpg

Jim
 
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I am new too. I need help

I purchased a Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 Serial Number D370XXX with a 4" barrel. I would like to find answers to 3 questions:

1: About what year was this gun made?

2: Can it handle the +P+ ammunition?

3: Should the firing pin wiggle some in the hammer or should it be tight?

Thanks for any response: In Georgia
 
CraCZ: Your 19-3 dates from 1973.

Pensrollei: 1. 1971-72. 2. I wouldn't fire +P+ ammo in any of my guns as it doesn't necessarily meet SAAMI specs for peak pressure, but that's me. I don't think your Model 10 is going to kaboom if you try it, but I still wouldn't recommend it. If you want another opinion, you could call S&W - my guess is they'll tell you the same (and you might get some other opinions here as well). 3. The firing pin is designed to pivot up/down but shouldn't have much movement at all side to side.
 
Dating a pair of S&W Model 60 snubbies

I recently obtained a pair of S&W Model 60 stainless steel snubbies in .38 Special. The serial numbers are R665xx and BBF07xx. Can anyone give me an idea of when these two revolvers were manufactured? Many thanks.
 
I purchased a Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 Serial Number D370XXX with a 4" barrel... Can it handle the +P+ ammunition?
If it's one of the rare Model 10's chambered from the factory in .357 Magnum, yes. Such a Model 10 will say ".357 MAGNUM" on the side of the barrel and will readily chamber a .357 Magnum cartridge.

If not, NO. It is a gun-destroying kB! looking for an opportunity to happen. :eek:

Some commercial +P+ is loaded to near-.357Mag pressure levels, nearly double .38Spl pressure levels. The only factory S&W revolvers chambered in .38Spl that are generally strong enough to handle it are N frame .38/44s, which are ridiculously overbuilt; however, even then, I'd be hesitant to fire it through one of these rare and valuable collector's items.

OTOH +P (without the "+" suffix) is safe in most postwar steel-frame .38Spl S&W revolvers, including your Model 10.
 
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