Smith and Wesson serial number search

My question is: does having a nickel finish preclude the gun from being a police model? I have a .38 special, serial #470866 (no letter prefix) square butt I think, from granddaddy. It has a nickel finish (whats left of it), and I have no idea how old it is?
Couldn't tell you on the nickel thing.
If it's a 6 shot, SN 470866 would make it a 38 Military & Police 4th Change.
Serial numbers ran from 241704 in 1915 to 1000000 in 1942.

Hi. I have a Mod. 36 s/n J592xxx can you help me with the date?

Can one easily tell if it is nickle as opposed to stainless? Also, I noticed that the frame provides for a fuller grip than my other Mod. 36. What is the deal with that?
1977. A 36 would be blue or nickel. A 60 would be stainless.
It sounds like one has a square butt grip frame and the other a round butt.
One's better for shooting the other better for concealing.

Jim
 
MORE:...Need help dating a Smith & Wesson M&P .38 spl

Yesterday, I asked about the manufacturing date for my: "...Smith & Wesson Military Police revolver in .38 Smith & Wesson Special caliber .38 serial number "S 822018".

Shortly afterward, laytonj1, Senior Member, responded: "S822018 = 1945". Thank you for the fast response.

I had given up on Smith & Wesson, having sent an email a while ago asking about it. I wasn't interested in a full historical letter, just a date. Then, I asked this forum for help. For that I am grateful.

However, this morning S&W finally responds: "it was manufactured in1942".

Now what? Actually, two dates separated by World War Two? I can see where there might be some confusion.

1942 - 1945? Close enough. Thank you for your help.
MAK
 
However, this morning S&W finally responds: "it was manufactured in1942".

Now what? Actually, two dates separated by World War Two? I can see where there might be some confusion.

1942 - 1945? Close enough. Thank you for your help.
MAK
Well, I'm not going to argue with S&W. I went by the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson which shows serial numbers S811120 to S999999 ran from 1945 to 1948. It shows the ones made from 1942 to 1945 had serial numbers V1 to V769000 and SV769001 to SV811119.

Jim
 
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Thanks for input, I appreciate the interest.
I guess my choice is between the information gathered from the book or that sent to me via e e-mail. Since I live in a "house with a thousand books", I'll go with the printed version (no disrespect to the guy whose turn it was to answer the emails at S&W). 1945 it is.
My M&P revolver came to me some years ago from the estate of the original owner. The original box (I believe it to be) is gold in color, has an figure of a revolver embossed into the top, and instructions on the inside. The front sight is a narrow half-moon, the barrel 5 inches long. The revolver's finish could best be described as an "elegant satin"; it is not the highly polished shiny blue many commercial Smiths had. But perhaps this was the standard finish for that period. The action is as it was when it left the factory. The case hardening of hammer and trigger is muted but easily identified.
I'm become more infatuated with this revolver. It looks good, and has a nice feel to it. I've not fired it, being otherwise occupied with other projects. I believe a better set of grips would enhance the shooting experience. Another spring/summer project.
Again, I am indebted to your help in adding depth to the guns personality. Yes, I anthropomorphise; if I can't "bond" with my shooter, I let someone else try to do so.
Thanks. MAK
 
S&W .22cal long rifle revolver
serial number K-58271
K58XXX = 1948. It would be a K22 Masterpiece which went on to become known as the Model 17 when S&W started assigning model numbers in 1958.

Jim
 
19-3 questions

Hi, I see you've been nice enough to look stuff up for others so I thought I'd ask :)

My girlfriend's father recently died and she has his S&W 357 Magnum Model 19-3
the Serial# is 7K302xx. I believe it has a 6" barrel.

Can you tell me how old it is? Maybe it's generic ballpark worth (we're not selling it just curious)?
Any idea where I can get a specific user manual for the 19-3, I did download a generic S&W revolver manual from scribd.

Also I have seen alot of comments saying not to shoot .357 shells in it. Why is that, and what shells would you recommend?

I see the thread title is serial# lookup, is there another thread for the other questions?

thanx in advance,
Lonnie
 
My girlfriend's father recently died and she has his S&W 357 Magnum Model 19-3
the Serial# is 7K302xx. I believe it has a 6" barrel.

Can you tell me how old it is? Maybe it's generic ballpark worth (we're not selling it just curious)?
Any idea where I can get a specific user manual for the 19-3, I did download a generic S&W revolver manual from scribd.

Also I have seen alot of comments saying not to shoot .357 shells in it. Why is that, and what shells would you recommend?

I see the thread title is serial# lookup, is there another thread for the other questions?
Your model 19 was made in 1975. Value depends on condition but ballpark is about $400 for one with a little bluing wear.
You can shoot 357's with it. However, The smaller "K" frame magnums were designed at a time (mid 50's) when it was believed most folks would shoot 38 specials and reserve the 357's for defense and such. While the gun won't blow up or anything like that from shooting 357's it will wear out of specs faster then a more modern design 357. Shooting 38's it will last a looooooong time.
You can get a reproduction manual for your 19 here:
http://www.rediscovered-shooting-treasures.com/smith&wesson.htm

You can learn a lot more about your gun and S&W's in general here:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/

A great reference book for S&W's is the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson. On it's 3rd edition and available at many book stores or search online.

Jim
 
Hi. I have a Mod. 36 s/n J592xxx can you help me with the date?

Can one easily tell if it is nickle as opposed to stainless? Also, I noticed that the frame provides for a fuller grip than my other Mod. 36. What is the deal with that?
1977. A 36 would be blue or nickel. A 60 would be stainless.
It sounds like one has a square butt grip frame and the other a round butt.
One's better for shooting the other better for concealing.

Jim

Thank you, Jim. I appreciate your taking the time to look up the gun and respond.

I just bought the S&W book from Amazon in hardcover for like $13. It might not be the latest edition but I think that it will serve.

Thank you again.

Ed
 
need help

n366xxx. my father (deceased) bought it in 1977. I never asked about the weapon. Now i have it. Now i want to trace it.You guys seem to know alot so could you help me.
 
I have inherited a weapon. Serial is 185x. It's a 44 caliber
Does the cylinder swing out to the side, or does the gun open by pivoting the barrel down and the cylinder up?

The first style is known as a "Hand Ejector" and is the configuration used on the vast majority of S&Ws made since the end of World War II. The second style is known as a "top-break" and made up the majority of S&W production during the latter half of the 19th century. They were regularly catalogued until 1941, but by then the Hand Ejectors had eclipsed them in popularity, and S&W didn't bring them back after the war.

If it has a swing-out cylinder chambered in .44 Special (not .44-40 Winchester), it's a .44 Hand Ejector 1st Model, otherwise known as a "New Century" or a "Triple Lock". The "New Century" moniker was applied by S&Ws marketing department to signify the fact that it was the first all-new model introduced in the 20th century; the "Triple Lock" moniker is a nickname applied by collectors because it's the only S&W model with a third locking lug under the cylinder support, known in revolver nomenclature as the "crane". (The other 2 locking lugs are at the front end of the ejector rod and at the rear of the cylinder; almost all S&Ws have these.) This gun was the first model to use S&W's "large" frame size, known as the N frame. Your gun was built in the first year of production, 1908. This is among the most valuable of all Hand Ejector models; its value is in the mid 4-figure range if it's all-original and in good condition. OTOH I'll give you $250 for it. Let me know where to mail the check. ;)

(If it's chambered in .44-40 Winchester, it might be something else, and I'll have to get back with you.)

{EDIT} Make sure you're reading the serial number off the butt and including any alphabetical prefixes. If you're reading it somewhere else, it could be an assembly number, and my ID could be incorrect! :(

If it's a top-break, you will have to post pictures of it to get a positive ID because S&W produced a number of different .44 top-break models with overlapping serial-number ranges. Tens of thousands of these guns were sold to the militaries of the USA, Imperial Russia, and Japan, and IIRC S&W often restarted the serial numbers with each contract. (These were produced 80-100 years before the USA passed a law prohibiting gunmakers from repeating serial numbers in the same caliber.) .44 top-break models are differentiated by features, some of which are very subtle. Pictures are a must!
 
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The cylinder swings out to the side, and it is chambered in .44 special. The finish is worn, but other than that, it is in excellent condition. All engravings are clear and there is no pitting. The barrel is VERY clean. The pistol is all original. Sorry for the so-so pics, I took them with my phone.

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The number on the butt is 112. I got the 185x from behind the hinge. Also, it does have the third lug under the cylinder.
 
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The number on the butt is 112. I got the 185x from behind the hinge. Also, it does have the third lug under the cylinder.
WOW. An original Triple Lock with a low-3-digit serial number! Droooool. :cool: Whoever willed that gun to you has given you something really special.

FWIW the finish wear isn't a big problem on a gun this old. The important parts are that (a) it's original and (b) it's not rusty. Many owners of guns refinished them over the years. Many owners also modified these guns, typically by installing different sights, shortening the barrel, or installing new stocks (aka grips) and throwing the original ones away. However, your gun looks 100% original.

I'm upping my bid to $300. ;)
 
Thanks for the info. What would be a fair value to put on this? I don't know if I would really want to sell, but it would be nice to know. Keeping options open and all that, ya know. Especially since I'm not a collector.
 
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Zengaya,

Auction prices from 2006 shows 1st Models selling in the $4000 range in excellent condition (very minor finish wear). I'm sure they gone up since then. Yours appears to have a lot of bluing wear which would reduce value significantly, but a low first year serial number of 112 would bring a premium from a collector.

Jim
 
Thanks for the help. I really think I am going to sell it now. I collect other things, so I know what it is like to see something that is wanted in the hands of someone who can't really appreciate it. I like the pistol, but I know that a true collector would enjoy owning it a lot more. I just need to come up with a good starting price. Thanks again for all the info.
 
My grandfathers S&W Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman - 357 Mag. with box and papers and original rapper. From what I know.....It has NEVER BEEN SHOT. Condition is 100%

SER.NO. 3966

How much do you guys think its worth (not going to sell) ?
When was it made?
I was told it was a low production number.........is this true?

Any other information would be great also!


THANKS SO MUCH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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