Smith and Wesson serial number search
- Thread starter Driveout02
- Start date
redhologram
New member
I'm pretty certain this is the S&W M&P (Model of 1905 - 4th Change) based on the SN - 271xxx.
It has been handed down in the family.
My question is does anyone know anything about the scrollwork and grips?
I know Wolf & Klar did a small handful but I can't find anything indicative to tell me if this is a possibility or done later by someone else. The grips aren't telling me anything either. I know, obviously, they aren't the usual walnut that typically come on this usual model.
I've got paperwork to send to Mr Jinks for a history but I don't know what he could tell me beyond what I already know, unless he can pinpoint that it was indeed shipped out to TX.
It's a keepsake and special to us because of the family history.
Sorry my pics aren't the best quality. It has Smith & Wesson on the left side of the barrel and the circle Trade Mark on the right side of the frame.
It has been handed down in the family.
My question is does anyone know anything about the scrollwork and grips?
I know Wolf & Klar did a small handful but I can't find anything indicative to tell me if this is a possibility or done later by someone else. The grips aren't telling me anything either. I know, obviously, they aren't the usual walnut that typically come on this usual model.
I've got paperwork to send to Mr Jinks for a history but I don't know what he could tell me beyond what I already know, unless he can pinpoint that it was indeed shipped out to TX.
It's a keepsake and special to us because of the family history.
Sorry my pics aren't the best quality. It has Smith & Wesson on the left side of the barrel and the circle Trade Mark on the right side of the frame.
Well I went to Newington Gun Exchange in CT, where I bought the model 37 that cracked, and they did right by me 100%. Apologized for the gun, gave me a Blue Steel model 36 in 9/10 condition with original box and papers. I will never not go there for future purchases. Their customer service was A1. SN: ALB1***, (so early-mid 80s?)Lesson learned, no more aluminum guns. Thanks for taking the time, Jim.
I'm seeing early 1992 for the BKY9xxx revolver.
For the "maybe" Model 686, the last three digits don't give us the info we need. We need the first three digits -- alpha characters, actually. They can be found on the frame behind where the cylinder yoke closes also on the bottom of the butt, and is often covered up by the wood stocks or rubber grips. They often need to be removed to see.
To be a Model 686, it WILL be marked "Mod 686" on frame behind the yoke and it must be stainless, adjustable rear sight and with a full-length barrel underlug that runs all the way from frame to muzzle.
For the "maybe" Model 686, the last three digits don't give us the info we need. We need the first three digits -- alpha characters, actually. They can be found on the frame behind where the cylinder yoke closes also on the bottom of the butt, and is often covered up by the wood stocks or rubber grips. They often need to be removed to see.
To be a Model 686, it WILL be marked "Mod 686" on frame behind the yoke and it must be stainless, adjustable rear sight and with a full-length barrel underlug that runs all the way from frame to muzzle.
S&W 357 info
"For the "maybe" Model 686, the last three digits don't give us the info we need. We need the first three digits -- alpha characters, actually. They can be found on the frame behind where the cylinder yoke closes also on the bottom of the butt, and is often covered up by the wood stocks or rubber grips. They often need to be removed to see.
To be a Model 686, it WILL be marked "Mod 686" on frame behind the yoke and it must be stainless, adjustable rear sight and with a full-length barrel underlug that runs all the way from frame to muzzle."
Under the rubber grips my 357 has numbers 21659 759 on one side and B1 on the other, no Mod 686 on it. I think it is stainless
"For the "maybe" Model 686, the last three digits don't give us the info we need. We need the first three digits -- alpha characters, actually. They can be found on the frame behind where the cylinder yoke closes also on the bottom of the butt, and is often covered up by the wood stocks or rubber grips. They often need to be removed to see.
To be a Model 686, it WILL be marked "Mod 686" on frame behind the yoke and it must be stainless, adjustable rear sight and with a full-length barrel underlug that runs all the way from frame to muzzle."
Under the rubber grips my 357 has numbers 21659 759 on one side and B1 on the other, no Mod 686 on it. I think it is stainless
Attachments
harobe,
From the picture it is a model 686. See pics below for location on serial number and model number.
Jim
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd194/laytonj1/swstandard.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd194/laytonj1/mod-1.jpg
From the picture it is a model 686. See pics below for location on serial number and model number.
Jim
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd194/laytonj1/swstandard.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd194/laytonj1/mod-1.jpg
Model15guy
Inactive
S&W Model 15-2 Problem
Recently, after about 20 rounds, the cylinder locked on my Model 15. It took a while for me to get it open. The gun is from the early 1960s, so I'm not shocked if it may need some new parts. Does this sound like an issue with the cylinder stop, or cylinder stop spring? This is the first malfunction I've ever had with this gun, and I've had it since 1973. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Recently, after about 20 rounds, the cylinder locked on my Model 15. It took a while for me to get it open. The gun is from the early 1960s, so I'm not shocked if it may need some new parts. Does this sound like an issue with the cylinder stop, or cylinder stop spring? This is the first malfunction I've ever had with this gun, and I've had it since 1973. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
