Jake Chandler
Inactive
Just curious, what are those grips made of and do you know where to get a set?
Thanks
Thanks
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Smith and Wesson serial number search
- Thread starter Driveout02
- Start date
Early Regulation Police?
My father has a K frame with a serial number of 1587xx.
I know it is a hand ejector, chambered in .38 S&W Special, with the fixed sights (blade front), center diamond grips with gold crests, S&W trade mark on the right side, with the S&W markings to include patents (last one= Sep 14. 09
It is in pretty good condition with solid bluing (mior "pitting"), some holster wear, a few very fine scratches, and clean bore.
Could you please help me with proper identification, date of production, and approximate value?
I'm also researching a few of his other weapons that he has from his elders. So far I've worked on his 1915 Winchester Model '94, a 1938 Hunter Arms "The Fulton" 16ga SxS, his 1950 Colt Detective Special .38. I'm working on this Smith and just out of curiosity also an Iver Johnson Arms and Cycle Works break action .32 hammerless 5 shot revolver.
Thank you!
Troy
My father has a K frame with a serial number of 1587xx.
I know it is a hand ejector, chambered in .38 S&W Special, with the fixed sights (blade front), center diamond grips with gold crests, S&W trade mark on the right side, with the S&W markings to include patents (last one= Sep 14. 09
It is in pretty good condition with solid bluing (mior "pitting"), some holster wear, a few very fine scratches, and clean bore.
Could you please help me with proper identification, date of production, and approximate value?
I'm also researching a few of his other weapons that he has from his elders. So far I've worked on his 1915 Winchester Model '94, a 1938 Hunter Arms "The Fulton" 16ga SxS, his 1950 Colt Detective Special .38. I'm working on this Smith and just out of curiosity also an Iver Johnson Arms and Cycle Works break action .32 hammerless 5 shot revolver.
Thank you!
Troy
Jake Chandler:
The grips are vulcanised (hard) rubber. They were the standard grip on your gun, as I mentioned over at THR. Your best bet would be to check with Numrich: http://www.e-gunparts.com/
Christobal65:
Depending on mechanical condition your gun would probably be considered good to very good condition. In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $450 to $600. Please note that these guns were chambered in .22 long, not .22 long rifle and are known to crack the forcing cone when shot with .22lr.
If you can't find .22 shorts or longs to shoot through it, it would be best not to shoot it at all.
TK14SS:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 3rd Change manufactured between 1909 & 1915, serial number range was 146900 to 241703.
In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave values of $285 to $385 for very good to excellent condition.
Note that this gun was made before heat treating of cylinders and it would be prudent to only shoot it with standard velocity lead ammunition. It also lacks the modern hammer block safety so there is a very small risk that it could discharge if dropped on the hammer. Best to keep the hammer down on an empty chamber if it is kept loaded.
The grips are vulcanised (hard) rubber. They were the standard grip on your gun, as I mentioned over at THR. Your best bet would be to check with Numrich: http://www.e-gunparts.com/
Christobal65:
Depending on mechanical condition your gun would probably be considered good to very good condition. In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $450 to $600. Please note that these guns were chambered in .22 long, not .22 long rifle and are known to crack the forcing cone when shot with .22lr.
If you can't find .22 shorts or longs to shoot through it, it would be best not to shoot it at all.
TK14SS:
You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 3rd Change manufactured between 1909 & 1915, serial number range was 146900 to 241703.
In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave values of $285 to $385 for very good to excellent condition.
Note that this gun was made before heat treating of cylinders and it would be prudent to only shoot it with standard velocity lead ammunition. It also lacks the modern hammer block safety so there is a very small risk that it could discharge if dropped on the hammer. Best to keep the hammer down on an empty chamber if it is kept loaded.
adam731432
Inactive
S&W J-Frame Stainless Chiefs Special Stainless
Serial # ALA8347
Serial # ALA8347
Serial # ALA8347
November of 1985
TX Shooter
Inactive
DOB
I would appreciate help knowing year of manufacture for my Highway Patrolman:
N 596XXX
Also, any estimates of value for a 9 out of 10 condition level??
I would appreciate help knowing year of manufacture for my Highway Patrolman:
N 596XXX
Also, any estimates of value for a 9 out of 10 condition level??
adam731432
Inactive
Sweet. I was born Dec1 of 85. So would this Stainless 1985 m60 be safe with the hottest +P .38special? Does it take standard J-frame grips? Are there any quirks about this era model?
I only payed 329 OTD but its a little rough. Looks like it was carried ALLOT but shot a little. Some new grips and the stainless will polish right up. Its still very tight. The cylinder face and cylinder rings aren't very stained and the rifling and forcing cone are still bright and sharp with no powder or jacket fouling.
Thanks
I only payed 329 OTD but its a little rough. Looks like it was carried ALLOT but shot a little. Some new grips and the stainless will polish right up. Its still very tight. The cylinder face and cylinder rings aren't very stained and the rifling and forcing cone are still bright and sharp with no powder or jacket fouling.
Thanks
adam731432:
The first plus P rated Model 60 came out in 1990. Accepted internet wisdom (ie use at your own risk) is that limited use of Plus P in a early model won't harm the gun, regular use will accelerate wear. For the grips, jany round butt J frame grip will fit. If yours is a 60-1 with a three inch heavy barrel and square butt then you will need to look for square but grips.
The first plus P rated Model 60 came out in 1990. Accepted internet wisdom (ie use at your own risk) is that limited use of Plus P in a early model won't harm the gun, regular use will accelerate wear. For the grips, jany round butt J frame grip will fit. If yours is a 60-1 with a three inch heavy barrel and square butt then you will need to look for square but grips.
TX Shooter
Inactive
Thanks very much Radagast!
adam731432
Inactive
I thought mine had the .38/magnum frame and cylinder length but i could be wrong.
I didn't see a -1 on the yoke. The bottom of the the grip frame is flat but with slightly rounded corners. A set of modern 2009 grips from my 642 and 360 airweights fit perfectly. What would that make it?
Do you think a steady diet of the FBI lead HPSWC would hurt?
I didn't see a -1 on the yoke. The bottom of the the grip frame is flat but with slightly rounded corners. A set of modern 2009 grips from my 642 and 360 airweights fit perfectly. What would that make it?
Do you think a steady diet of the FBI lead HPSWC would hurt?
The +P rated frame did not start until 1990 at 60-7. The "Magnum frame" did not start until 1996 at (60-9) when they started chambering for the 357.I thought mine had the .38/magnum frame and cylinder length but i could be wrong.
Jim
adam731432: You have a round butt gun, and possibly you could harm the gun. Certainly regular use of plus P will wear the components and throw the timing out faster than standard pressure ammo. If you want to shoot plus P on a regular basis, buy a 60-7 or later gun. Yours is a 60 'no dash' and has not been reinforced for the heavier loads.