Smith and Wesson serial number search
- Thread starter Driveout02
- Start date
1953-54; $275-$800
1956-57; $400-$2000
1953; $185-$300
That should be a "pre"-27, and I've assumed that the .38 Special is a pre-10 with regard to the pricing (the other possibility would be a pre-12 "Airweight" which likely would be worth a bit more. There are so many variables involved in estimating value, particularly with older guns such as these, that I've only provided the SCSW-listed range for "fair" to "excellent" to give you an idea. I think you can safely add about 25% or more to those numbers given the increases in S&W revolver values lately. Also, the pre-29 and perhaps also the pre-27 come from the era of "Coke" stocks, and if they have them that would be a significant factor in setting the value.
the 27 and 29 both have the coke stocks. both are also beautiful guns for their age. no rusting or pitting. no scratches etc. i used to know a great deal more about these, but have forgotten most of it. any other info would be great. thanks for the help!
also, how do i tell what type of 38 it is?
also, how do i tell what type of 38 it is?
The pre-12 "Airweight" had an alloy frame and originally an alloy cylinder, later changed to steel due cracking problems. You can test the frame with a magnet. Value range for an Airweight would be $235 to $600 (same caveats as with previous pricing).
If the .357 and .44 have their original Cokes numbered to the gun then you're getting up into some serious money, particularly in the condition you describe (and even more so if you have the original boxes), so I'd advise you to get them properly appraised if you're considering selling. You might also want to post over on the S&W Forum, with pics if you've got any - that's where the real S&W experts hang out.
If the .357 and .44 have their original Cokes numbered to the gun then you're getting up into some serious money, particularly in the condition you describe (and even more so if you have the original boxes), so I'd advise you to get them properly appraised if you're considering selling. You might also want to post over on the S&W Forum, with pics if you've got any - that's where the real S&W experts hang out.
Hard time with a .32 Long S&W
Could someone help identify this revolver? It's a S&W .32 Long. Walnut, checkered, medalion-ed grips. Small S&W logo. Pinned barrel. 6-shot. Blued. Half-circle front fixed sight. Square notched fixed rear. The gun has three screws on the right side, one on the left cylinder release, and one on the top front of the trigger guard. The barrel markings are what's messing with me. Right side, ".32 Long CTG" Left side, "Smith & Wesson"
Numbers on the gun: bottom grip (on the frame, not the grips) 605XXX this number is also visible on the inside of the cylinder swing arm [between the cylinder and the swing arm--when opened--you have to look through the cylinder with a flashlight to see it]. Same number under the barrel---also a small "v" all by itself close to where the barrel meets the frame under the barrel.
With the cylinder open, you can also see some other numbers on the frame: top line "11", second line "907XX" under this you can see a strange mark--an 8 in a circle?
I bought a blue book, but it continues to confound my attempts at verification...
The owner has had it for over 10 years.
*ANY* information would be most helpful, and many thanks in advance for any thoughts on the gun...great shooter btw...
Could someone help identify this revolver? It's a S&W .32 Long. Walnut, checkered, medalion-ed grips. Small S&W logo. Pinned barrel. 6-shot. Blued. Half-circle front fixed sight. Square notched fixed rear. The gun has three screws on the right side, one on the left cylinder release, and one on the top front of the trigger guard. The barrel markings are what's messing with me. Right side, ".32 Long CTG" Left side, "Smith & Wesson"
Numbers on the gun: bottom grip (on the frame, not the grips) 605XXX this number is also visible on the inside of the cylinder swing arm [between the cylinder and the swing arm--when opened--you have to look through the cylinder with a flashlight to see it]. Same number under the barrel---also a small "v" all by itself close to where the barrel meets the frame under the barrel.
With the cylinder open, you can also see some other numbers on the frame: top line "11", second line "907XX" under this you can see a strange mark--an 8 in a circle?
I bought a blue book, but it continues to confound my attempts at verification...
The owner has had it for over 10 years.
*ANY* information would be most helpful, and many thanks in advance for any thoughts on the gun...great shooter btw...
Last edited by a moderator:
TravisBakerUSN
Inactive
Looking for date/approx. value of S&W 39-2...serial: A199040. Thanks a million!
Sgt Pepper
New member
How about this S&W? I believe that it is a Model 1-1/2 in .32 S&W, but that's just me guessing. Serial #18932. Looks terrible, but the action and trigger are fantastic!
Sgt. Pepper:
Looks like a model 1 1/2 to me.
The Serial numbers ran from 1-97,574, and the dates of production were 1878-1892.
The book doesn't break it down any more than that, but since your gun was made 30% into the serial numbers used, we could guess that its around the early to mid 1880's, but without a letter from S&W, its only a guess.
Looks like a model 1 1/2 to me.
The Serial numbers ran from 1-97,574, and the dates of production were 1878-1892.
The book doesn't break it down any more than that, but since your gun was made 30% into the serial numbers used, we could guess that its around the early to mid 1880's, but without a letter from S&W, its only a guess.
Target style grips were not always numbered to the gun because they usually do not require much if any fitting. Magna / service grips are usually numbered to the gun because they had to be individually fitted.
If there are no numbers on your "coke" target grips they could be original or added after the fact. It would take a letter from S&W to know for sure what it orginally shipped with.
Jim
If there are no numbers on your "coke" target grips they could be original or added after the fact. It would take a letter from S&W to know for sure what it orginally shipped with.
Jim