Honestly, I don't really think that a revolver is any more likely to have a "DRT" failure than a semi-auto is; small parts breakage can happen with either.
My experience with revolvers over the years, seems to be different than yours.
Some of them were broken parts, a couple of S&W 940's had broken parts which locked up both guns, and they had to be disassembled to get the remaining live rounds out, so they could be returned.
Some were things that at the time, put the gun out of action, but they were not permanently disabled and the gun didnt have to go back for repair, but would not have been back in action until the problem was remedied.
Things like....
... the ejector rod backed out, and locked up the cylinder.
... the cylinder retaining screw fell out, and the cylinder fell off the gun during a reload.
... bullets jumping their crimps on the wrong side of the rotation, stopping the gun, and requiring the bullet be taped back in to get the cylinder open.
... some out of spec rims on factory .45Colt cases that bound the gun up, dragging on the shield.
... accumulated crap under the extractor star that caused the cylinder to bind up to the point you couldnt pull the trigger, or thumb cock the gun. Something that is not solved by reloading either.
... and squibs, that pushed the bullet into the forcing cone, but not past the face of the cylinder, tying things up until the bullet was tapped back into the cylinder.
Some of the above (actually, all of them) were just part of the revolver learning curve. Things like putting thread locker on screws and ejector rods, learning to reload the gun properly, so you dont get crap under the star, etc.
Ammo, factory or reloads, will always be a hit or miss issue. Most of both are rarely an issue, but when it is an issue, it often puts the revolvers out of action until the problem can be resolved, which usually isnt something done in the moment.
Ive had issues with autos as well, but 99% of the time, the TRB solves it. With some guns, like one of my Glock 17's in just the past week, the gun actually will still work, with the part broken. It broke a trigger spring, which I didnt discover until I was cleaning the gun. Im assuming it happened after I was done shooting, as I think I would have noticed the dead trigger when I let the slide go on a new mag. What I did discover, while cleaning, and trying to figure out what was going on was, if I held the trigger back as the slide went forward, the trigger would continue to reset and work.
Like you , Ive had out of spec rounds lock them up on occasion (didnt have to be disassembled to resolve, but it was a bear in each case, to get the gun open), and youre right, the gun now becomes a "ridge hand" type striking weapon, and actually a quite effective one, assuming youre close enough.
As far as squibs go, with either, normally, I do notice that something wrong occurred, that was out of the norm. Autos generally have a bit of a safety buffer, as the gun usually doesnt cycle. Revolvers dont give that luxury, unless the bullet doenst make it all the way into the forcing cone.
The real difference between the two comes when youre shooting quickly, under stress. There, I think the difference youll see is, the auto stops running, and the revolver stops putting bullets on target, even though you keep pulling the trigger.