What lubricant do you guys trust/use normally?

LOL. Yeah, maybe the original CLP for household use. I think I have a can in the workshop somewhere, probably 30 years or so old.
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I remember as a kid using it on my bike chain for crying out loud!...Wonder if they still make the stuff?

Anyhow I have used the rig gun grease and Remoil for the finer workings but I found something new for that....drum roll.....

Full synthetic 2 cycle oil! Really I haven't used it but I have wondered how well it will work?! It is great for casting molds. Guess it depends on how much it gunks up....?
 
I used to use Hoppe's #9 with Weather Guard. Never had a problem, but it was a little messy and picked up lint. I have switched to the M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX. This stuff is amazing. It doesn't take much, and doesn't pick up as much lint. I use it on all my firearms now.
 
Tetra Myths

Tetra Gun Grease was invented almost 30 years ago as one of, if not, the original synthetic fluoropolymer lubricant protectant grease.

Having worked in the gun care industry for 20 years, I thought it was important to dispel the perception (as mentioned on this discussion) that Tetra Gun Grease causes rust. This is impossible.

Tetra Gun Grease has no solvent, and is a non-reactive chemistry. You can only have a problem with the results in two scenarios. 1. You over-lubricate, which is not recommended. And 2, you do not thoroughly clean off pre-existing solvent residue or other buildup.

I have heard of people who say that over time, the grease turns brown or rusty over time when wiped from gun parts. That is a misinterpretation. The lubricant, even though it is not a cleaner, actually helps to draw out fouling. Solvent sitting in the pores of metal will continue to leach out over time until it is all gone.

Solvents (cleaners) do their job, but then you want to get them off. Solvents will eat up lubricants. That's what they do.

I can assure you, if you apply Tetra Gun Grease to clean, dry parts, there will not be rust. But, if you apply it to metal surfaces that are saturated with high pH cleaner residue, you will be causing your own problems.

The Tetra fluoropolymer technology is based on spherical particles that are as few as 4 microns in size, combined with synthetic base oil and corrosion inhibitor. Like other synthetic "LP" lubes on the market, you will protect parts and smooth our your action while preventing future buildup.
 
Froglube

I've been using froglube for about 2 years now, both the CLP and the solvent. I rarely have to use the solvent. I won't be switching to anything else until something comes along that shows to be better for my purposes.
 
drcohen said:
Tetra Gun Grease was invented almost 30 years ago as one of, if not, the original synthetic fluoropolymer lubricant protectant grease.

Having worked in the gun care industry for 20 years, I thought it was important to dispel the perception (as mentioned on this discussion) that Tetra Gun Grease causes rust. This is impossible.

Tetra Gun Grease has no solvent, and is a non-reactive chemistry. You can only have a problem with the results in two scenarios. 1. You over-lubricate, which is not recommended. And 2, you do not thoroughly clean off pre-existing solvent residue or other buildup.

I have heard of people who say that over time, the grease turns brown or rusty over time when wiped from gun parts. That is a misinterpretation. The lubricant, even though it is not a cleaner, actually helps to draw out fouling. Solvent sitting in the pores of metal will continue to leach out over time until it is all gone.

Solvents (cleaners) do their job, but then you want to get them off. Solvents will eat up lubricants. That's what they do.

I can assure you, if you apply Tetra Gun Grease to clean, dry parts, there will not be rust. But, if you apply it to metal surfaces that are saturated with high pH cleaner residue, you will be causing your own problems.

The Tetra fluoropolymer technology is based on spherical particles that are as few as 4 microns in size, combined with synthetic base oil and corrosion inhibitor. Like other synthetic "LP" lubes on the market, you will protect parts and smooth our your action while preventing future buildup.
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I apply grease in the sear engagement surface in rifle. I had been using tetra grease for that forever, until I tried moly graphite grease for car repair. I gave that small, over priced, white tube of tetra grease to my friend the next day, lest it would take up my space.

General cleaning and lubrication: breakfree clp.

Bore cleaning: Gunzilla and copperzilla. Trying mpro-7. Still inclusive.

-TL
 
I clean with Hoppes #9 and M-Pro 7.
I lube with M-Pro 7, Slide Glide and Tw25b.
After clean and lube I wipe the assembled gun with Rem Oil Wipes.
 
Kinda shocked that, at this point, no one said K-Y.... ( at least not that I saw...)
After all, we're a snarky bunch.... Just sayin'...
 
Wessonality. Lubricates just fine, Tastes Great. If it's good enough for KFC Its good enough for S&W
 
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MPRO7 oil and Action Lube Plus moly grease.

Rem Oil. Been made for 100 years. Laugh, but it works
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So does Singer sewing machine oil, but neither are optimal. Rem Oil in my opinion is far too thin to be a good lubricant.
 
I think people way over think lube. Unless you are in a extreme harsh conditions for extended shooting sessions most stuff on the market will work.

You need to think about how to lube a particular firearm more then the lube of choice. For example Sigs like grease on the rails and like to be run wet. Glocks do not need to be as wet.

I find that ease of use is a major factor!
 
Mobil 1 rem oil and rem dry lube One quart of Mobil # 1 will last you a long time even when your friends use it .
 
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