The S&W Model 10 thread...

Never even seen a Model 10 in the flesh,but I must say I like the look of them particularly those I've seen with the bull-barrel look in a 3-5" barrel. Very nice proportions, IMO.
 
I've posted this pic before of my first (and only as of yet) model 10. When I got it, it was a rusty mess but it cleaned up good and is my best (for me) shooting revolver. It sure will put em in there. I'm on the hunt for a pencil barreled 10 now.
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I've posted this pic before of my first (and only as of yet) model 10.
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Now that's what I'm talking about!!

Apologies to the purists, but I much prefer those to the pencil barrels and if one came up for sale here, I'd be sorely tempted!!
 
I only have two left from my collection. A M&P 1905 4th change 38 special and a model 10-7 4 inch. Classic service revolver.



 
I just love all these beauty's. Here is mine made from pieces and parts. Just replaced the barrel because of a split at the forcing cone. Found a brand new old barrel for about $35. No matching numbers but it is still a good shooter with the new barrel.
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Hdonly, I REALLY like how yours looks. I like how there is just bluing on the frame, cylinder flutes, amd bolt notches. The rest looks in the white or no finish at all. Then it all comes together woth those lighter colored grips, nice work, It looks great. Who cares that the numbers dont match, I'll bet it shoots as good as any of them. Thanks for sharing

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deerslayer303, All you have to do is get a used/new blued cylinder and soak it in a 50% mix of white vinegar and 50% water for a couple of hours. Your cylinder will be in the white with little effort

You may know this already. It is a good way to handle any blued item you desire to completely refinish.

No offense to Hdonly, but he may of gotten his beard a little close to the vinegar/water mix too.
 
I purchased two new model 10's in 1974.

The 2" I still carry plainclothes.

The 4" I gave to Bill Davis for conversion to a PPC competition gun… 6" bull with under lug and Arist-o-Crat rib, bobbed hammer, DA only, Coil Main Spring, trigger stop.

Still have both…. Still have to qualify with the 2" regularly.

Last qualification I brought the Davis Conversion along "just for fun" to run a round… Youngest deputy's comment…. "Woah,,,, were'd you get that??? Is that a Snake Pliskin gun?????" Ahhh Youth!
 
Bud's gun shop had what I think was a blued Model 10 in 5 inch a few weeks back. It had pinned barrel, but the cylinder was not recessed. It looked in immaculate condition, the bluing was very shiny. But I wondered if it was pinned, why was the cylinder not recessed? Would that mean it had been replaced? I passed on it. But it was a nice gun.

I like the S&W Model 64 that's the current version of the Model 10 I believe. Nice looking revolver, I'd get some wood grips on it and it'd be good to go!

I prefer the magnums but someday I'll pick up a nice 10.
 
kyguy1 said:
Bud's gun shop had what I think was a blued Model 10 in 5 inch a few weeks back. It had pinned barrel, but the cylinder was not recessed. It looked in immaculate condition, the bluing was very shiny. But I wondered if it was pinned, why was the cylinder not recessed? Would that mean it had been replaced? I passed on it. But it was a nice gun.



I like the S&W Model 64 that's the current version of the Model 10 I believe. Nice looking revolver, I'd get some wood grips on it and it'd be good to go!



I prefer the magnums but someday I'll pick up a nice 10.
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Only .357 magnum revolvers had recessed chambers not .38 specials


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Howdy

I keep telling myself I don't need any more K frame Smiths.

I came across this one on Thursday. Four inch 38 M&P that shipped in April of 1920. Not the greatest lighting for the photos, but as you can see, there is lots of wear on the finish, and lots and lots of wear on the grips. There were two others in the store, newer and with more finish, but the timing on this one was still perfect, the other two the timing was not quite perfect any more. So I bought it. I paid $300, yeah, probably too much, but I have a real soft spot for these old M&Ps with the big mushroom shaped extractor rod cap.

Took it home and popped off the sideplate this morning and took it completely apart. Cleaned out lots of dried old oil and dirt from inside. I did not do any fancy polishing or anything, but the thorough cleaning did remove some grittiness from the action. I was not surprised to see the grips are the originals, numbered to the gun. Put it back together again and took it to the range today.

Still shoots like a charm. Dead nuts at about 30 feet. The trigger is a bit heavier than I would like, but I don't think I am going to do anything about it. And I have no intention of replacing the worn old grips. They are original to the gun and I think they have a lot of class.

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Driftwood,
I love a story like that, where someone rescues an old Classic that might otherwise wind up in a scrap heap somewhere. That gun has character that cannot be faked. Tender love and a little oil is all it needed to start a new life with someone who loves it. I need to close now.... I'm getting all weepy. :p
 
LamarW, Haha. No offense taken. There was a time when my beard was very dark red. That time wasn't recently though. haha Good One!
 
They are out there if you are very patient. I got one on a bid of less than $150 two or three years ago on GB. It took months, but I was determined to get one for that price. The finish is very worn, but it locks up tight and is a good shooter. It was made in 1915 or 1916, I misremember which. I have read of them as a "pre Model 10". Is "Military and Police" the more correct terminology?
 
I have read of them as a "pre Model 10". Is "Military and Police" the more correct terminology?
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Howdy

The name for the 38 caliber revolvers Smith and Wesson makes with a swing out cylinder has varied a bit over time.

Before S&W developed revolvers with cylinders that swung out to the side, the company made what are called 'Top Break' revolvers. To load these revolvers the shooter unfastened a latch at the rear of the top strap, then pivoted the barrel down. As the barrel pivoted down a cam caused the extractor to rise up automatically, extracting the empty brass.

Like this:

unloading-1.jpg




As the barrel reached the end of its downward travel, a spring automatically snapped the extractor back into place. If the shooter rolled the barrel down briskly enough the snapping back of the extractor was enough to eject the empties onto the ground. Sometimes it helps to flick the wrist sideways as the barrel is rolled down, to help spill the empties out of the chambers.




In 1896 Smith and Wesson introduced their first revolver with a solid frame and a swing out cylinder. It was a .32 caliber revolver. Because the method of opening the revolver had changed, it was no longer possible for a cam to automatically actuate the extractor. Instead it had to be done manually by pushing back on the extractor rod, the way we are all used to doing it today. So the name given to the new style of revolver was Hand Ejector, meaning that ejecting empty brass had to be done manually, or by hand.

This .32 Hand Ejector, 1st Model shipped from the factory in 1898.

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The term Hand Ejector was used for a time for the early 22, 32, and later 44 caliber S&W revolvers with swing out cylinders.



In 1899 Smith and Wesson introduced their first 38 caliber, solid frame revolver with a swing out cylinder. In 1902 and then again in 1905 S&W made some changes to this design. I have a reprint of the 1905/1906 S&W catalog. In this catalog S&W referred to these models as the .38 Military Model 1902 and the .38 Military Model 1905, probably because the Military was seen as the principle market for these revolvers. Don't forget, it would be a few years until the Army adopted a Semi-Automatic side arm. However the term Hand Ejector continued to be used for quite a few years for other swing out cylinder revolvers.

A reprint of the S&W catalog of 1927 shows the name of the .38 Military revolvers had evolved to .38 Military and Police. This is the name that these revolvers are usually known by today. Even after S&W changed over to model numbers in 1957, renaming the .38 Military and Police the Model 10 in the process, a catalog from 1968 lists the iconic policeman's revolver as the .38 Military and Police, with the name Model 10 underneath it in smaller print. You will also see the .38 Military and Police model abbreviated as 38 M&P. Collectors will often simply refer to it as the M&P.

Which always strikes me as funny because a few years ago S&W appropriated the term M&P for a line of semi-automatic pistols and rifles. To me, the M&P will always be a revolver. Not a Semi-Automatic.

The term Pre-Model 10 is often used loosely to refer to any 38 M&P, but according to The Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, that term is only appropriate for the postwar .38 Military and Police revolver, produced from 1946 until the name was changed to Model 10 in 1957. I know a collector who insists there is no such thing as a Pre-Model anything. But if you say Pre-Model 10, most S&W aficionados will know what you are talking about.

P.S. If you want to get really fussy about it, you can refer to the various 38 M&Ps as the .38 Military and Police 1st Model (the Model of 1899), .38 Military and Police 2nd Model (Model of 1902), .38 Military and Police Model of 1902 - 1st Change, .38 Military and Police Model of 1905, .38 Military and Police Model of 1905 - 1st Change, 2nd Change, 3rd Change, or 4th Change. But .38 Military and Police is usually good enough.
 
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