Update
I still carry the orig TCP and it works fine even though I did have slide locking open initially when mag was not empty and fixed it by grinding off the slidestop edge that I'm positive was getting hit by bullets cycling up the mag. I also did a feed ramp job and improved the cycling smoothness. I also caution a few things that I've found on "several" gun makes semi autos.
1)A really "tight" gun may be more accurate, but may also be more prone to jamming due to tightness from fine dirt, dust, powder, lint. There's a reason people say AK's are more reliable in dirty environments. The tighter a gun, the more prone to jamming from gunk.
2)If you think a gun is supposed to malfunction because it needs 300-500 rds to "break it in" fine. Your car doesn't constantly not work the first 1,000 miles because it has to break in or you'd be mad. Excess Grease on a new gun that gather dirt, powder and gun shavings can cause issue when new, but not after cleaned & oiled. 50 rds should be enough to break in a gun unless things are to tight or off during manufacturing and it take several hundred rounds to wear in hardened metal to make it smoother. If a gun is made correctly it should function after 50 or so rnds.
3)If you shoot rnd nose/range bullets, always shoot your defensive loads ie...at least 20-40 rds and 2 diff mags to ensure they work. I've fixed and warned several over the years who had this problem expecially with hollow points and truncated/flatish nose bullets.
4)If you load up a mag 1 shy of full and medium speed cycle the gun smoothly, no stopping or causing resistance and your bullets stop on the ramp or halfway into the chamber, this is a bad thing. If you have to hit the back of the slide to make it cycle, something is contoured wrong either the very top of the breakover of the feed ramp going into the chamber is to sharp of an edge, the extractor hook on the bottom of the extractor has a sharp point, or the feed ramp angle is slightly off. Some would say, it doesn't matter as long as it goes bang during shooting, but I feel the gun is not running smooth as it could and if you shoot weak handed or not a super tight grip could malfunction. Use a Dremel tool and some 1/4 to 1/2 inch around tips (feel like pencil eraser with grit in it, no the ones that feel like 200 grit sandpaper) on your Dremel to take out the sharp edges on the feed ramp breakover into chamber (this one can cause the bullet to be halfway into the chamber. Changing the angle of the feed ramp should not be required and requires more care to do, but a slight polish/contour in some cases can help feeding. Also remember that if all this fails and your bullets still stop in middle of the feed ramp, it's likely the magazine lips on the very front may need to be evenly and slightly bent open. I purchased a SCCY 9mm and nothing worked until I bent the lips, then it fed flawless. This was after doing all the items above with little improvement. Called SCCY after my hours of above troubleshooting & Found both mags with the new SCCY gun were bad for those ser # guns per SCCY and SCCY replaced them (new ones worked fine). Until I bent the mag lips edges open a hair the gun never fed a full mag. The sharp metal pointed edge on bottom of the extractor can bite into the soft brass and also cause resistance. Polishing & rounding, don't grind off a bunch. All gun parts are "hardened" on the outside, no all the way thru solid hardened metal, so if you grind off to much you get into the softer pot metal and can cause issues.
I bought another TCP 2 years later and went to the range and found the magazines were not compatible with each other and had to mark the mags so I didn't mix them up. Be careful and they changed something between models. The mags wouldn't even seat at all and then I found out they changed something between model years.