Smith and Wesson serial number search

1996.
That dovetailed front sight blade was the first thing I noticed. While they do offer that set-up on some of the Performance Center revolvers I'm pretty sure that is not a factory set-up on your gun. I do like it though.

Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks. The reason I wondered is because the length of the ramp is longer than the ones with red inserts or pinned in blades that I've seen.
I always seem to end up with revolvers that have been tinkered with for some reason.:rolleyes:
 
iv got a 32 long that came in to my family in 1988 or so i know its a s&w im would like to know about what year it was made i was guessing 40s or 50s but thats just a guess the number on the butt of the gun is 1947xx i would be greatfull for any help
 
Last edited by a moderator:
s&wfan: Your Smith is a good bit older than that. Based on the SN (difficult to tell much from the photo), you would appear to have a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 - 5th Change. There were 160,499 of them manufactured between 1910 (at SN 102501) and 1917 (SN 263000).
 
flyfish

holy crap i had no ideal it was that old it came into my family in 88 i was 6 at the time it was won in a poker game of all places it was in my gradfathers closet and i got it when he passed thanks for the help
 
hello all im new here i just purchased a smith & wesson 38special with a 6 in barrel looking for year and model i think it might be pre war serial #195xxx wood grips 4 screws on body i shot it for the 1st time today i like it
thanks semperfiman
 
semperfiman: That's not much to go on - can you post a pic of each side of the gun? A .38 Special with a six-digit serial number and no letter prefix would most likely place the gun back toward the turn of the century (the last century, that is), and if you're shooting the gun it sounds like it may not be quite that old.
 
Oh, OK. With an SN of C195XXX, the date of manufacture is between 1948 and 1951, with the latter end of that range more likely (1951 ended with C223998). Knowing that date, and because it's .38 Special, it has to be a .38 Military and Police (pre-Model 10). It should actually be a 5-screw, so-called because there will be 4 screws on the sideplate (3 visible and one under the grip), and an additional screw in front of the triggerguard. Nice gun - please post pics.
 
I'm trying to find the age of a S&W .38 special ctg. Serial number is 260XXX
Click to expand...
38 Military & Police 4th Change. Serial numbers ran from 241704 in 1915 to ~1000000 in 1942.
Your SN of 260XXX would likely be within the first couple years.

Jim
 
Model 617 4" 10 shot 22lr "Day1369" is what I see on it

I haven't taken the grip off yet to see that it matches what is on the bottom of the grip. Is this the right number to tell its vintage
 
Jim,

thanks for the information. I had no idea it was so old. we fired it just a couple of years ago. Now I'm going to have to consider if I should continue to do so.

Bill

38 Military & Police 4th Change. Serial numbers ran from 241704 in 1915 to ~1000000 in 1942.
Your SN of 260XXX would likely be within the first couple years.

Jim
Click to expand...
 
Model 617 4" 10 shot 22lr "Day1369" is what I see on it

I haven't taken the grip off yet to see that it matches what is on the bottom of the grip. Is this the right number to tell its vintage
Click to expand...
Yes, DAY1369 is the serial number. But, the SCSW only covers up to 2004 at prefix CTA (yours is later) so you'll have to contact S&W customer service and they'll give you the manuf. date over the phone for free.
1-800-331-0852 (USA)
Mon-Fri 8:00AM-8:00PM Eastern Time

Jim
 
I have a Mod 4013 and VAT 9506.

Can anyone tell me when this pistol was made?
Click to expand...
If it's a straight 4013, not a 4013 TSW, they were made from 1991 to 1995.
Serial prefix "V" started in 1994 so your DOB would be 1994/95.

Jim
 
Last edited:
wturn: Your Military & Police was made before the introduction of heat treated cylinders at serial number 316648 in September 1919. It also lacks the modern hammer block safety. It would therefore be prudent to only shoot it with standard velocity lead loads, no PlusP or jacketed ammunition. 158 grain lead round nose or 148 grain leads wadcutters should be fine. Due to the lack of a positive hammer block - it does have one, but it can fail - I would leave the chamber under the hammer empty if keeping it loaded. Beyond the above caveats, if it checks out OK (follow the how to check out a revolver thread stickied at the top of the revolver forum) then I wouldn't hesitate to shoot it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top