Smith and Wesson serial number search

".38 Safty Hammerless 4th Model. Serial numbers ran from 116003 in 1898 to 220000 in 1907.

Jim"


Jim, Thanks so much!

Joey
 
Need Help ID revolver

The barrell has several stamps on the underside. .38 Caliber, 1-150, 4 tons per [] ", crown BNP. Thanks

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I was given a S&W revolver six shot that is in pretty good shape. I can't find a model number anywhere on it. It's got a short barrell and has a crown and BNP stamped on it. The serial number is 8393XX. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Gurn: Those are British proof marks. What you have may be a .38 S&W British Service revolver (WWII made on the K frame, concurrent with the Victory model) that later has the chambers bored through to allow .38 special to be chambered. If the there is a slight taper to the rear of the chambers then this is possibly the case. If so stick to standard pressure loads as there is a chance that that higher pressure ammunition will split the cases.
 
delkcerf: Assuming you have a swing out cylinder gun, the it is a Regulation Police (Model 31 after 1957) or a .32 Hand Ejector (Model 30 after 1957). Built on the I frame, it was a six shot .32 long revolver with fixed sights, built in the serial number range 536000 to 712953 between 1946 & 1960. Serial number 640980 is recorded in 1956, so your gun predates that.
 
Gurn: Those are British proof marks. What you have may be a .38 S&W British Service revolver (WWII made on the K frame, concurrent with the Victory model) that later has the chambers bored through to allow .38 special to be chambered...
Click to expand...
Gurn never said it will chamber a .38 Special cartridge. ;)

OK, a little history lesson about these guns... a lot of this is rehashed from earlier in the thread, but I'll save people the trouble of searching back. :)

Great Britain received hundreds of thousands of S&W revolvers during WWII, both through the Lend-Lease program and outright purchase. All were chambered in .38 Smith & Wesson (.38S&W), which was called .38/200 by the Brits; it's an old low-powered round used in 19th-century S&W top-break revolvers. (The reasons for adopting such a wimpy round as a military service cartridge have been hotly debated ever since it first happened, but we'll leave that for another thread. ;) ) Most of these guns originally had 5" barrels, dull black phosphate finish, and smooth walnut grips.

The British military converted to 9mm Luger semi-autos after the war and sold all of their S&W revolvers, mostly during the 50s and 60s, although a few trickled out later. Most went to the USA for commercial sale but some others went to European police agencies; many of these were subsequently resold again in the USA. During the 50s, there was a booming market in milsurp firearms through American mail order houses and neighborhood businesses such as gas stations and hardware stores, and most of these revolvers were sold through these outlets for dirt cheap prices. Most wound up in cash drawers and sock drawers in the bad parts of town. Some were sold relatively unmolested, but others were modified by the importers to increase their commercial appeal; typical modifications included reaming the cylinders out to accept more powerful and widely available .38 Special cartridges, refinishing, shortening the barrels, and replacing the grips with aftermarket ones. Depending on the importer, the quality of these modifications varies from pretty good to abysmal, but tends towards the latter. :( These guns are generally considered undesirable by collectors.

.38S&W cartridges use a case that's shorter than a .38Spl, but actually use a slightly larger-diameter case and bullet, .361"-caliber rather than .357"-caliber. (Contrary to what you might assume, the .38Spl round, despite also being developed by Smith & Wesson, is based on the .38 Long Colt and not the .38S&W.) If .38Spl cartridges are fired in one of these reamed-out .38S&W revolvers, the cases will usually bulge due to the excess chamber diameter; this can lead to hard extraction and split cases, especially if you handload and try to resize them. These guns usually also suffer from subpar accuracy due to the "oversize" barrel; however, they'll shoot better with lead bullets than harder jacketed bullets because the softer lead will expand and grip the rifling better. If you decide to shoot one, stick to standard-pressure non-jacketed rounds, and expect patterns rather than groups. :rolleyes:
 
Have a question for you guys, today I was at my buddies gun shop when an old S&W came in on trade, I bought it on the spot for the right price now the question is , it is an old K frame 22 Model 17 master piece 6 inch serial number 42XXX nothing else on it all original no cracks in the grips and checkering is like new no signs of wear only bluing wear is at the muzzle and only one little spot on one side any Idea as to age and value? my buddy was tickled to see me get this one I have collected smiths for years now and this is the 1st time I lucked into a nice one like this. Thinking of getting a letter on this one. I'll try and post a pic tomorrow
Thanks guys
 
Cartman, I think you have quoted an assembly number, not the serial number. Assembly numbers are often stamped on the frame under the crane, it was a number for keeping track of parts at the factory. The serial number should be on the underside of the grip frame, you may have to take off the grips to see it.

If it is a prewar K22 Outdoorsman then the serial number range is 632132 to 682419. If it is a prewar K22 Masterpiece then the serial number range is 682420 to 696952.
If it is a post war K22 Masterpiece then it should have a K prefix to the serial number.
If it is a post 1957 Model 17 it should have a K prefix or within the serial number and have model 17 stamped under the crane on the frame.
 
Pics of 38

I have uploaded the pics to see if that helps in id. Thanks for all the help.


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Gurn,

You have a British-contract military .38/200 revolver. It's basically the same as a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, 4th Change. Many collectors would call your gun a "pre-Victory" because it predates the "V" serial number prefix that S&W started using when serial numbers passed 999,999 (they restarted at V1).

It's wearing the original matte grey-black phosphate finish, but the stocks (grips) are either aftermarket or creatively redone originals. The front sight is not original. Judging by the barrel stamp, it has been rechambered in .38Spl. Unfortunately, the barrel has been cut, and the 'smith hacked off the front locking lug that holds the front of the ejector rod in place. This was often done by importers because it's easier and cheaper than repositioning the locking lug and installing a shorter ejector rod. The front locking lug is essential for proper lockup and cylinder alignment. The accuracy of this gun will probably be quite subpar if it's safe to shoot at all. Get it checked out by a gunsmith. It may be a wallhanger. :(

I hate to be the bearer of bad news... :rolleyes:
 
S&W serial numbers

Hi, I have 3 revolvers I am interested in finding when they were made.

1. S&W model 36 Serial number J4492XX

2. S&W model 10-5 Serial number 561XX

3. S&W 38 Special OTG Serial Number 3499XX I know these were made from 1915 to 1947 curious as to when this one was made.

I appreciate it.

Tyson
 
1. S&W model 36 Serial number J4492XX

2. S&W model 10-5 Serial number 561XX

3. S&W 38 Special OTG Serial Number 3499XX I know these were made from 1915 to 1947 curious as to when this one was made.
Click to expand...
1) J4492XX = 1976/77
2) There should be a letter prefix of "C" or "D" on your 10-5.
3) All the book list is 241704 in 1915 to 700000 in 1942.

Jim
 
A big thanks Jim:) for this look-up service you're doing for us Firing Line members!!!

Saying that.........:p can you look up my newly aquired today pinned and recessed Model 29-2 Serial # N70225x.
 
Quote:
1. S&W model 36 Serial number J4492XX

2. S&W model 10-5 Serial number 561XX

3. S&W 38 Special OTG Serial Number 3499XX I know these were made from 1915 to 1947 curious as to when this one was made.

1) J4492XX = 1976/77
2) There should be a letter prefix of "C" or "D" on your 10-5.
3) All the book list is 241704 in 1915 to 700000 in 1942.

Jim
Thanks Jim Stamped under the serial number is what appears to be a Q follwed by G-5 underneath the Q
 
Take the serial number off the bottom of the grip butt.

I guess it has been removed. There is no blueing on the butt and its not exactly flush with the bottom of the grips. They did a good job grinding it off though only numbers are in front of the chamber. MOD 10-5 on the frame connecting the barrel. 5617X on the chamber arm with Q then G-5 underneath the Q.

Tyson
 
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