Smith and Wesson serial number search

Sometimes you'll see it on .45 Colt... but that is not to a SAAMI standard. And unlike the other +P's, "heavy .45 Colt", the kind of modern ammunition built specifically for Ruger and Freedom Arms revolvers are way beyond original spec, which was is a cartridge that has it's roots in black powder. But the "market" and fanbase for "heavy .45 Colt" is probably large enough that if I had to guess... it could be or might be the next actual SAAMI standardization of a +P rating.

.38 Super is often labeled +P also, but there is no SAAMI standard for .38 Super+P and it's often been said that some makers label .38 Super as +P simply to help denote the fact that it is not the much older .38 Auto. And in fact... some .38 Super (and marked +P at that!) is simply loaded to lower than allowed peak pressures. I personally believe that Magtech's .38 Super+P product does this.

Buffalo Bore does it to some of their ammo...
They shouldn't. :mad:
 
Scholfield serial number?

I have found a schofield model 3 Smith and Wesson and would like more info on the serial number if anyone can help that would be great it's pretty beat up and not in firing condition but the serial number is 3794 it does have the "us" stamp on the butt and you can just make out the side markings on both sides of the gun any info or websites to find info would be great thanks in advance!
 
Model 19-5

Advise on year made for a Model 19-5 serial number ACS0828, strange the box it came in says it is a Model 19-4 but no matter.
 
Yours was built somewhere between January and October, 1983.

All of the 19-4's had a pinned barrel and recessed chambers in the cylinder. The 19-5 arriving in 1982 eliminated both of those.

Does the box show a serial number that links it to the revolver, or was it simply a box that someone had laying around?
 
I have found a schofield model 3 Smith and Wesson and would like more info on the serial number if anyone can help that would be great it's pretty beat up and not in firing condition but the serial number is 3794 it does have the "us" stamp on the butt and you can just make out the side markings on both sides of the gun any info or websites to find info would be great thanks in advance!
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This one is way, way out of my league. Hopefully, others may come to help.

I would suggest that you open a specific new thread in the Revolver area of the site and if at all possible, include pictures. And be prepared to answer questions when folks ask you to look for this, that, or the other thing.

I only have a book... it's a phenomenal book and I highly recommend it, it's The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson[ by Supica and Nahas, and it's currently in it's Third Edition. The book is worth every penny you might spend on it.

If I've looked it up correctly, your revolver was made between 1870 and 1872. That's if you found & properly identified the actual serial number. ;)

I would imagine that even in lousy shape, there is some collectible "value" to that particular revolver.
 
Manufacture year and more please!

I was currently given my mothers Smith & Wesson .32 Long CTG Police Model. I was hoping someone could help me with a few questions I have.

1. Would it be okay to fire a few rounds through this piece, and if so is there any particular ammo I should look for, or stay away from?

2. The handle grip seems to be cracked on the bottom, is there anywhere or anyone that can replace or fix it?

3. What would be the best procedure to clean/restore this revolver?

4. Manufacture date of this revolver?

Bottom handle model number: 230607
Under barrel model number: 230607
Inside hand ejector hinge: 10 67
Under hand ejector hinge: 10 67

Thank you in advance....
 
I was currently given my mothers Smith & Wesson .32 Long CTG Police Model. I was hoping someone could help me with a few questions I have.
On older guns, pictures are often the SLAM-DUNK that "we" need to properly identify them. And I say "we" because I'm doing little more here than looking up serial numbers in a fantastic reference book but other folks know far more about old Smith & Wesson revolvers than I do, and they can help a lot more with these older ones.

1. Would it be okay to fire a few rounds through this piece, and if so is there any particular ammo I should look for, or stay away from?
When you single action cock the revolver (when you draw the hammer back with your thumb) check to be sure the cylinder rotates freely and locks in to place all on it's own. If the timing isn't right and the cylinder doesn't get where it needs to go -AND- locks there, all on it's own, that gun is absolutely dangerous to shoot. Also, check the bore, inside the barrel and be certain that it's totally free of obstructions. Check the cylinder for cracks. Check the rear-most portion of the barrel for cracks. The .32 S&W Long is a relatively weak cartridge by today's standards, so I wouldn't worry all too much about the safety of it as long as there are no major issues. You can also use the handy guide at the top of the this area of the site that teaches you to "check out" a used revolver.

As for ammo, the big companies still make small runs of .32 S&W Long. You can shoot it or, if you don't find it, .32 Smith & Wesson. The .32 S&W (not long) is a shorter round but it will work just find in any .32 S&W Long revolvers. The ammo will not be cheap in price simply because it's a product that isn't sold in large volume. The bullets should be regular old lead... not jacketed bullets.

2. The handle grip seems to be cracked on the bottom, is there anywhere or anyone that can replace or fix it?
Gun show dealers often have tremendously large piles and boxes of old grips for these guns at varying prices. Also, if it's absolutely properly identified here, someone in our forum may offer suggestions. The original grips (in better shape) absolutely enhance it's "value" so be careful with those grips no matter what condition they are in right now.

3. What would be the best procedure to clean/restore this revolver?
Is it blued or nickel plated? I wouldn't do anything excessive to it as far as cleaning goes. FAR more guns, especially old guns, are ruined by cleaning than by neglect or lack of cleaning. You can really do damage here if you don't know what you're doing. Ensure the bore is clear of obstructions and use some patches to make the chambers clean. As for a full-on restoration, there are people who can do that, but the time and money ends up being -FAR- more than most any rational person would consider.

4. Manufacture date of this revolver?
If I am reading my book correctly and I have the right gun...
It's a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903, 5th Change, and the book says it was made between 1910 and 1917 according to that serial number.

If you want more detailed information, you can contact the Smith & Wesson historian, Mr. Roy Jinks at S&W and request a factory letter. This is not a free service, I believe the cost is $50, but Mr. Jinks will look up the serial number and return back a display-grade letter that gives you a date of when it was shipped from Smith & Wesson, all the features and options it was shipped with and it will even tell you to WHERE it was shipped. It's a very interesting letter that comes back, but you'll have to decide if it's worth the money. You needn't send the gun to Mr. Jinks for this service.
 
Model 19-2, ser K490476
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Shows as a 1962 build. I would imagine you have a 4-inch barrel as the book suggests the 6-inch and the 2.5-inch weren't introduced until 1963.

Should also have the cool old Diamond grips.

Bet that's a very cool revolver.
 
Up-Dated Post

I was currently given my mothers Smith & Wesson .32 Long CTG Police Model. I was hoping someone could help me with a few questions I have.

1. Would it be okay to fire a few rounds through this piece, and if so is there any particular ammo I should look for, or stay away from?

2. The handle grip seems to be cracked on the bottom, is there anywhere or anyone that can replace or fix it?

3. What would be the best procedure to clean/restore this revolver?

4. Manufacture date of this revolver?

Bottom handle model number: 230607
Under barrel model number: 230607
Inside hand ejector hinge: 10 67
Under hand ejector hinge: 10 67

Thank you in advance....
Click to expand...
I would like to thank Sevens for helping me with the research of my firearm here is a pic to help narrow the year it was manufactured.

What would you estimate the value of the piece at?
 
I am not good at doing values. In the picture, a couple things come to mind.

First... it sure looks pretty good! :D
But the picture makes you ask... "hey, I wanna see MORE pictures, higher resolution, many angles, so I can look for all the little minor details that eat away at price/value, etc."

Secondly... those are not original grips. They may have some value all on their own, but as the revolver itself goes -- it's a hit to "value" or collectibility when it's missing original equipment.

Also, I have no idea what your comfort level in guns and collectibility is, but a "value" is a wide, WIDE scale. It runs from the lowest of the low... if you take it to a pawn shop to sell it... to the highest of the high-- if you found a gentleman who is looking to replace a gun he lost that was his Grandfather's and he will pay whatever it takes to get as close as he can.

And at the end of the day, putting values on guns is not at all something I do well, especially OLD guns.

So I wish you luck, but I will say that if it looks like it's in REALLY nice shape, you should really consider spending the $50 and getting a Roy Jinks letter. The history will be interesting and the letter will HELP the "value" of the revolver, whatever that "value" happens to be.

And other folks active here on these forums can do far better to throw numbers at you... but none of them would do great job without more, more, more pictures, of larger and better quality.

Make a whole new thread in the Revolver area of the site, not just in this topic, and you'll gather other interested people who may help.
 
Thanks for the help Sevens, you have really helped me determine what I have. I would like to find some original grips if at all possible... The search is on!!!
 
S&W .32

I inherited a mystery pistol a while back. I have looked around on the big 'ol WWW, and I think it is a S&W D/A 4th Model. It has a Serial # of 693XX. Can you please help put an approximate date with this gun. The gun isn't in great shape, I would say a 4 out of 10, but to have an antique like this is cool.
It's funny, I thought it was an old cap gun when I received it. It has the "feel" of an old toy cap gun.
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I believe you have identified it correctly, but I must always add that these old ones are well out of my comfort zone so I hope that's correct. The serial number range is correct for a .32 Double Action 4th Model.

The book says there were roughly 239,600 of these made over a 26 year period between 1883 (sn: 43406) and 1909 (sn: 282999). Not knowing exactly how Smith & Wesson produced these and on what schedule, we could only assume by the numbers that it "averaged" 9,215 units yearly... yours may have been made in the 3rd year of production, so 1884 or 1885 is as good a guess as I could make.

The picture is confusing me so far as the grips are concerned; they are supposed to be hard black rubber grips and yours appear almost pewter. Perhaps they were (gasp!) painted silver?

I wouldn't worry all too much over the grips or the overall shape of this cool and historic piece, the book I have (very outdated, actually) shows that even -NEW- examples of this gun aren't incredibly valuable. Which is hard to imagine for Smith & Wesson craftsmanship that is THIS old.

Neat revolver!
 
Thank you for the info! I was really hoping it was a 19th century gun. :DAs far as the grips, they look very suspicious to me. They are a pewter and appear to have been hand made. Almost like they made a cast of the old grips and poured these. The aligning holes are not what I would expect from the factory.
 
Sorry, I have only the 2nd Edition of the SCSW. 3rd Edition is what's "current" now. If they come out with a 4th Edition, I'm planning to buy it. Your revolver is newer than 2000. But maybe this thread bump will get a better answer for you.
 
I think there have been only a very select few models (very few!) that have been produced since the ILS that specifically didn't have an ILS. I would guess that yours is just pre-lock, but I can't be sure.
 
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