Slide Jammed Bad on 1911

" does anyone know why they might have had to replace the ejector?
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Possible while test firing it they decided it was a little on the short side. Hopefully it will work well for you now, just to be safe I would keep it well lubed for several hundred rounds.
 
Isn't galling a form of automatic welding of the stainless slide to the stainless frame? How did they ungall it? After ungalling, aren't the finishes affected? If so, did the restore the finishes? It sounds like they did. Wouldn't lubricating the slide rails prevent galling?
 
Isn't galling a form of automatic welding of the stainless slide to the stainless frame?
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Not exactly. There are numerous definitions of galling on the web, the one here is fairly good...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling

Galling is a form of wear caused by adhesion between sliding surfaces. When a material galls, some of it is pulled with the contacting surface, especially if there is a large amount of force compressing the surfaces together. Galling is caused by a combination of friction and adhesion between the surfaces, followed by slipping and tearing of crystal structure beneath the surface. This will generally leave some material stuck or even friction welded to the adjacent surface, whereas the galled material may appear gouged with balled-up or torn lumps of material stuck to its surface.
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Galling can be easily prevented by choosing the right metals where sliding is required, and the right degree of hardness.

tipoc
 
Galling can be easily prevented by choosing the right metals where sliding is required, and the right degree of hardness
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on each.

fixed that for you. By choosing different grades of metals or different hardness, galling can be avoided.

Back when I worked with SS fasteners a lot, we would often run into galling on the threads. By using different grades of Stainless Steels on the bolts vs the nuts we virtually eliminated the problem.
 
Dan Wesson 1911s have, for the most part, very tight slide to frame fit. This would help the "compression" of the steel to enable galling where the same steels used by another manufacturer might not gall because they're not as tightly fit as DWs.
 
This would help the "compression" of the steel to enable galling where the same steels used by another manufacturer might not gall because they're not as tightly fit as DWs.
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And, as I mentioned, if you select the proper grades of steel and hardness you can have a tight fit without the galling.

This problem was generally worked out with guns a few decades back. If DW has run into it again it's a mistake they can overcome.

DWs as a rule aren't as tight that this shoulda been a problem maybe the machining was off a bit as well.

tipoc
 
" does anyone know why they might have had to replace the ejector?
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Only the Shadow knows.Seriously,do the gravity test: the slide should smoothly
fall when tipped forward if it don't then more galling's in the future.
 
Polyphemus said:
Seriously,do the gravity test: the slide should smoothly
fall when tipped forward if it don't then more galling's in the future.
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Or just lube better -- or with a different lube. There are a LOT of Dan Wesson 1911s out there, and this is the first case of galling I've ever heard of for the brand.

Perhaps something like Brian Enos Slide Glide is appropriate.
 
Or just lube better -- or with a different lube. There are a LOT of Dan Wesson 1911s out there, and this is the first case of galling I've ever heard of for the brand.

Perhaps something like Brian Enos Slide Glide is appropriate.
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Oh it happens with them. Not the first time I have heard of a DW galling. Keith of DW certainly knows it happens from time to time. Sometimes it is user error sometimes it is the factory. :cool:
 
There are a LOT of Dan Wesson 1911s out there, and this is the first case of galling I've ever heard of for the brand.
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Wow, I've heard about more than a few of them, not quite as many now compared to four or five years ago but too many not to take some precautions. As another poster mentioned I also am a fan of a of hand cycling new tightly fitted 1911s, along with shooting using a good amount of oil.

If I had to guess some of the problems are with newer shooters, to the platform, that think two or three drops of oil will be sufficient.
 
Seems really weird to me that a high quality weapon like the DW would experience SS galling problems. This problem first came up back in the '70s when SS became all the rage.(probably known long before that) The engineers scratched their heads for awhile , then they "discovered" similar grades of stainless would tend to gall when rubbed ( insert technical term here) together. They changed the grades and I thought all was well. Strange to see it's still a problem.:confused:
 
Gun buyers demand 'tight" and the gun makers give it to them.
Even if they only last eight rounds before they seize.
Metal to metal will gall,there has to be some gap for the lubricant to get in between, no amout of oil or anything else will help if there's no space between surfaces tight contact will just push it out and friction will win.
OP's pistol came back with an idiot mark,nice going.
 
If I had to guess some of the problems are with newer shooters, to the platform, that think two or three drops of oil will be sufficient.
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1-2 drops of oil per rail is sufficient. Much more than that and it just runs down the frame and does no good. The tighter the slide fit the less room for an abundance of oil. Any excess oil or grease gets rapidly squeezed out.

I gotta say though that I've seen alot of DWs and none have a slide to frame fit as tight as Les Baers or Ed Brown's guns which are tight. It's always easy to hand cycle a DW. Tighter than most Springfields or Colts but nothing extraordinary. Kimber produces a number of well fit guns but no galling problems.

If DW actually has an issue with galling on it's stainless guns it's due to a mismatch in the materials and/or trying to get the metals to do something they don't want to do. Fit too tight for the metals they are using.

Most tight fit guns by Brown or Baer are built on carbon steel frames and slides. That steel does not gall. It is not as ductile (gummy) as stainless.

I may mosey over to the dw forum and ask about this.

tipoc
 
Pics don't help ...
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For galling - unless you're good at macrophotography and lighting, you wouldn't be able to see the galled areas. If DW simply lapped the frame and slide to fix the problem, the galling was not severe.

Galling looks like a surface area on the rails that is not as shiny as the ungalled area. It won't be for the entire rail, but only a very small area or areas. You're dealing with a surface deviation that is 0.001 or less - you can't see that in a photo.

I've had one 1911 with this problem after having the pistol electroless nickel plated.

I had to confirm the problem by putting black marker on the frame rails, lubricating the rails, and very carefully putting the slide on the frame and moving it until it felt difficult to move - and then pushing the slide past the galled areas and taking the slide off of the frame.

What I found were two areas about 1/8-inch in length on one side of the frame with the marker taken off.

After cleaning the marker off of the frame, I looked at the areas though a 10x loupe, and you could barely see that the rail was damaged - it just didn't look as shiny.

I fixed the problem by detail stripping the gun, and then running through lapping compounds from 400 grit through 1400. It took about 1 hour to fix the problem, and the pistol runs reliably with no accuracy difference after lapping the slide.
 
You can often visually see galling.

Galling is also different from a mismachined slide or frame. If a pic was available it might, might not, show us something else that was off.

tipoc
 
Is there any evidence that zero rail to slot clearance makes a pistol more accurate than .001" or .003" or .005" for that matter?
One of my pistols rattles,another you can barely notice any play and yet another one with no discernible play.They all shoot the same.
M1911's that's what I got.
 
Is there any evidence that zero rail to slot clearance makes a pistol more accurate than .001" or .003" or .005" for that matter?
One of my pistols rattles,another you can barely notice any play and yet another one with no discernible play.They all shoot the same.
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All depends on what you consider accurate. Never in my life have I heard any top notch 1911 smiff, that builds a pistol for accuracy, say slide to frame clearances don't matter.


Sure it's been passed around the erronet, for the last 20 years, that it doesn't matter but tell that to any number of top 1911 bullseyes smiffs and they will laugh at you. :confused:
 
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