Slide Jammed Bad on 1911

I wasn't about to hit my brand new gun with a rubber mallet and chance making any marks on it
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Whacking a 1911 with a mallet isn't for the faint-of-heart - but, it can be done without damaging the pistol.

If you take a terry cloth towel and fold it so that you have 3-4 thicknesses on top of where you're going to smack the gun - you won't damage the gun or finish.

I've had to get a jammed slide off of a hard chromed Les Baer Monolith and a full custom gun that was electroless nickel plated using a 3 pound shot filled mallet. Neither of the guns was damaged in the process.

If you don't feel comfortable doing that - the best thing for you to do is send it back to the manufacturer.
 
Did you try using the Dreml to adjust the link? Could may-be got it movin................................................may-be not....................................
 
Although this is my first 1911, I have had a good amount of experience with the 1911 platform. I have taken 6 handgun classes at the Sig Sauer Academy using their 1911 and 229 guns. The slide stop pin was inserted correctly. Before I sent the gun back to DW, the dealer that I bought the gun from put microfiber cloth over the end and tapped the slide forward with a rubber hammer hoping that it might free it up. We then started to take the gun apart hoping it would relieve some pressure. The slide stop came out just like normal and after that, the barrel and guide Rod moved freely inside the slide like normal. However the slide was still glued to the frame. I did more research on this issue and it seems like a lot of people have had problems with DW Cbobs galling over the years. The gun is now at DW. I will update everyone when I get the gun back.
 
You said you degreased/regreased it.I'm guessing,you maybe used a chlorinated hydrocarbon such as Brake or Carb cleaner?
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You'd have a hard time finding any "chlorinated" brake cleaner on the consumer market now.
 
stupid question but why degrease a brand new gun
now I know its not soaked in cosmolene those I have sprayed out with brake cleaner

but I would figure a brand new gun most likely has good enough lubing to shoot it
then use the normal gun cleaners and apply whatever lube you use


I would of never know brake cleaner could gall certain stainless materials
but I would of never used that type of spray anyways
I would of used some gun specific cleaner
 
When I bought my CBOB a few years ago, the slide seized tight during field stripping. After I got the slide off (rubber mallet), I did two things. First, I made sure there were no tiny burs -- a few passes with some jeweler's rouge on a cloth is good for this. Second, I switched from Breakfree CLP to another lube (I used Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic). I had read the CLP was a common lubricant in others which had seized. Whichever it was, it worked and I haven't had that trouble since.

The CBOBs at the time were ridiculously tight (mine was made in 2008). I even saw a comment from gunsmith Dave Severns at Severns Custom about how tight they were. I don't know if they are still made that tight or if that was the OP's problem. I'm just verifying that this is a potential problem for those who don't think it's possible in this day and age.

BTW, still love my CBOB.
 
It's helpful in threads like these if posters who would like help with a particular issue can provide as much information on the problem encountered as possible. It also helps people learn.

On page one we learned that the slide on a new gun was stuck. On page 2 we learn that the local gun dealer that the op bought the gun from did whack the slide with a mallet. We also learn that the slide stop was released and removed from the gun after the mallet work. The slide was still stuck to the frame though. The op also reports on page 2 that they tried to field strip the gun after that. Which may mean that they removed the bushing but could not go further.

This information, along with a couple of pics would have been helpful up front in the first post. It could of helped the op and helped fellas here learn. But we have it now (minus any pics), so we can pull from it what we can. The op sent the gun back to DW.

Sometimes there is a thin line between wanting help with something and wanting to vent. Nothing wrong with the latter, it has it's place.

Normally, in things like this one, most folks assume a problem in reassembling the gun. We look at that because it's the most likely. Most likely because it's the most common cause of problems like this.

The next most likely is a failure like the barrel link pin coming loose and possibly the link itself somehow tying up the action. It's happened.

The other is a catastrophic failure like the barrel link pin housing itself shearing off, or a barrel locking lug failing and coming off.

Galling it the slide to frame so tightly that a mallet won't release them is not common at all. But we'll see.

tipoc
 
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Sorry for the confusion. On day one when I posted this, I hadnt taken the gun apart yet but had already called DW and the gun store. On day 2 after I had already posted this I took it to the gun store I bought it from and they attempted to disassemble. The recoil spring, barrel bushing, and slide stop came right out so I don't think the jam had anything to do with those. I would have added all of that information in the beginning if I had it at the time. I honestly wasn't trying to vent and was wondering if anyone has had any recent problems like this or with falling in general.
 
Thanks, I tried joining the 1911 forum 2 weeks ago but it still won't let me post... It says someone still needs to approve my membership for my posts to show up. It wouldn't even let me send a pm to a moderator asking for approval. And I meant GALLING! Not falling lol
 
Dan Wesson wanted me to pay the shipping cost to send it back to them. Theres no way in hell thats going to happen on a brand new pistol.
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Two things:

So here's how shipping a gun back to the manufacturer often works.

For every genuine warranty problem with a gun, there are a bunch of new gun owners who screwed something up themselves, had trouble with Uncle Bob's "special" reloads, are worried about a non-issue or are in possession of a perfectly good gun but think there's a problem for some unknown reason.

It is common for a manufacturer to require the owner to pay shipping back to them if there's any question about the circumstances for two reasons:

1. It weeds out a lot of the worrywarts who don't really have an issue but just want the factory to look at the gun again if they can get them to do it for free.
2. It prevents the company from having to pay shipping costs on the 20 guns out of 21 that are in perfect working order that are shipped to them for no good reason.

HOWEVER, if the gun does, in fact, have a warranty issue, the company will reimburse the shipping costs upon request. If the problem is not a warranty issue, well then they haven't wasted the money paying to ship a perfectly good gun back to them. That keeps costs down which ultimately is a good thing for everyone.

If it's obvious that it's a warranty issue--e.g. slide cracked in two parts while cycling the empty gun before having ever fired it--then they will pay shipping because there's no question that there's a warranty problem.
...brand new pistol...
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... the malfunctioning pistol is brand new...
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Playing the devil's advocate here... The gun worked when it was brand new. It only stopped working after 8 rounds (of as yet unidentified ammunition) had been fired through it. In addition, the gun had been disassembled and reassembled by the user prior to the failure.
 
I spoke with Keith from Dan Wesson today in another Dan Wesson forum. He said galling happens sometimes and they will make it right and fix it. He said unfortunately it can happen to anyone and it has nothing to do with user error. Although the possibility of using fp-10 could have helped. It might not have been a complete solution. Thank you for all your responses in ideas of what it could be. I will be using fp-10 from now on to oil the gun just because that is what is recommended. The turnaround time from DW is fairly quick. I will let you all know how it looks and turns out when I receive the handgun back.
 
DW has had several with galling . I thought they were supplying a lube for break in with their new guns Suppose to use evey 50 rounds till your at least 500 rounds. .

Mine is a older one I ran it wet till was broken in. . They are built tight no question about that Mine is a tack driver .
 
Snyper,on chlorinated brake fluid,I just did a brake job.My local Autozone has multiple brands of both types on the shelf.
The Green cans of Brakleen are non chlorinated.The red cans are not.

And tipoc,in post 28 I was doing my best to help folks learn.
 
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HiBC,

I thought your post 28 was informative.

I think though that most issues with galling in stainless guns was worked out by the 1980s. AMT and Randall began making 1911s in stainless and both ran into galling issues. Colt began making guns in stainless following their lead and worked out the galling problems.

If DW has had an issue with this it's a throw back. meaning they didn't learn from the others and maybe are making the guns tighter. Also I may not be current with their guns and haven't been following their forums so it could be a more serious issue with them than I'm aware.

But I still think that a gun that galls so several after one magazine that it freezes up and that a tap with a mallet won't free it...pretty rare if that's the case.

tipoc
 
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