Plastic Parts on Beretta 92FS - What's the conclusion?

T

Texas Rifleman

New member
I know Beretta started manufacturing 92FS' with plastic guide rods, safeties and triggers, but is this a bad thing? Now that it's been a while can anyone tell me their experiences? I'm looking into possibly getting one and this might be a deal breaker.

-Thanks and much appreciated.
 
I had Beretta 96 with plastic parts, and I had no issues with them. Some people have very strong feelings on the subject, however, much the same way as certain people feel about MIM parts.
 
I really don't think you would have to worry about the polymer trigger etc... But replacing the guide rod with S/S rod would be a good idea. I have talked to a few gunsmiths for the glock polymer guide rods and all of them showed me all of the broken polymer ones. So the polymer guide rod for sure isn't as strong as a s/s one. but i don't believe there would be as much stress on the other parts compared to what is put on the guide rod. (the guide rod usually broke at the lip that sat into the groove on the barrel.)

I hope that helps any. Someone else may may be able to go into more detail about the other polymer parts.
 
I have not experienced plastic bits on a Beretta yet. ONes I have had are pre plastic. I suppose I would accept those parts being plastic on something like a Glock, you get the whole plastic package and what is a few more little plastic parts on that. But the Beretta being a metal framed gun, I find it harder to swallow plastic bits besides the grips. Seems like a cost cutting move that goes even further than cast metal parts to cut costs. Does not appeal to me but for practical purposes it may be of no consequence. Guess it saves weight besides mfr. costs. I do wonder if they sell cheaper than their metal equivalent parts. If they cost the same, then you know you are getting gypped.
 
Actually, the "plastic" parts are more like plastic coated metal. As mentioned, if there is a weak link in the newer arrangement, it is the guide rod, but multiple aftermarket solutions and old GI parts exist.

The "plastic" trigger, and safety levers, are superior in at least one respect, the black doesn't wear off like the old exposed metal finish did.
 
I have swapped out most plastic parts with metal one. Guide rod, Mag button, trigger...Plastic flexes, a plastic trigger does not allow precision control. Metal parts do not just looks better, they function better.
 
I think they look horrible, especially on the INOX guns. HAving metal parts on a stainless gun is ugly, period. I changed out the guuidrods on my two 92's and one Cougar to metal ones.

I just don't like them. Plastic parts on a plastic gun are to be expected. On metal, they cheapen the whole thing.
 
Just wondering...

What year did Beretta start using plastic parts in the 92 series, and did they start adding plastic parts from that time on, or was it done all at once?
 
As pointed out earlier, the plastic parts on a 92FS are plastic coated metal. The plastic guide rod is is designed to be an improvement for the M9. It has a grove which prevents debris (sand) from binding the recoil spring. It also will not bend if the pistol is dropped with the slide dropped, or if a soldier hits the ground with the slide back. It is also said to be less of a heat accumulator in heavy firing, allowing the pistol to run cooler.
 
Homerboy. I were confused with your points. Ain't you the same person who also said plastic part cheapen the whole thing on a metal gun? Is more expensive look = ugly?:confused:
 
amd6547, did you actually dissect those plastic parts? The guide rod is pure plastic. Mag button's pure plastic except a tiny metal insert on the tip where it is engaging the mags. The trigger is the same as far as I can tell. only the upper part has metal insert. Too flexible to my taste.
 
Platic guide rods.....

Glocks with their plastic guide rods are great, until someone doesnt put it in correctly (on the second step) then racks the slide. If you know what you are doing with a Glock and place the rod in the correct place, it will last forever IMO :D
If you do it wrong and rack it once, you will probably break it, or have problems with it from then on.
In other words, do it right, dont let anyone else (who doesn't know what they are doing) do it ever. SS guide rods are good, but what happens if someone puts a SS rod in the wrong place and racks the slide? I would rather stay with the plastic one and fit it correctly, (maybe have a spare) than fork out for a stainless one and maybe break something else if it were put in wrong :D
 
I have talked to a few gunsmiths for the glock polymer guide rods and all of them showed me all of the broken polymer ones.
Click to expand...
The only reason a Glock guide rod would break is if someone has installed it incorrectly or otherwise abused it.
 
+1 David

And like I said a couple of posts up, what happens if someone puts a metal guide rod in wrong and racks it? what would break/bend then? I think the plastic guide rod is GOOD, like a FUSE.... if you do put it in wrong, this plastic piece ONLY will break, not whatever jams it to break it as well. IMO, LEARN the RIGHT way of putting it in (and maybe carry a spare, just in case)

Murphey's law states, if you have a spare one, you probably will never need it. If you don't carry a spare.......?

IMO, breaking a plastic GR is "pilot Error" ...... Just do it right :D
 
Why bring in Glocks when OP was talking about a Beretta. They are very different kind of guns. A plastic toy vs a metal classic... I doubt anyone has the strength to bend, let alone break a steel guide rod in a 92 by racking the slide..:eek:
 
So confused...

Ok. So is it plastic coated metal or just plastic parts? If it's just plastic is it a bad thing? From what I've researched it seems the plastic guide rod is ok. But on a 92? It's sad, really.
 
They aren't plastic. They are polymer. And they aren't plastic coated. Polymer is stronger than plastic but not as strong as steel.

Polymer is....(courtesy of wikipedia)
A polymer is a large molecule (macromolecule) composed of repeating structural units typically connected by covalent chemical bonds. While polymer in popular usage suggests plastic, the term actually refers to a large class of natural and synthetic materials with a variety of properties.

Well-known examples of polymers include plastics and proteins. A simple example is polypropylene, whose repeating unit structure is shown at the right. However, polymers are not just limited to having predominantly carbon backbones, elements such as silicon form familiar materials such as silicones, examples being silly putty and waterproof plumbing sealant. The backbone of DNA is in fact based on a phosphodiester bond.

Natural polymer materials such as shellac and amber have been in use for centuries. Biopolymers such as proteins and nucleic acids play crucial roles in biological processes. A variety of other natural polymers exist, such as cellulose, which is the main constituent of wood and paper.

The list of synthetic polymers includes Bakelite, neoprene, nylon, PVC, polystyrene, polyacrylonitrile, PVB, silicone, and many more.

Polymers are studied in the fields of polymer chemistry, polymer physics, and polymer science.


So summed up... It is stronger than plastic and lighter than steel, but just not as strong as steel. It's not a bad thing for the little parts that you have mentioned but if you plan to put a few thousand rounds through the gun an investment of $30 for a stainless steel guide rod would definitely be worth it.
 
I cant say that I care much for the plastic coated trigger, and promptly replace them with the older all metal one. In dirty conditions the plastic guide rod does offer advantages, as it gives a place for the debris to go rather than lock up the slide.(the anti sand magazines were a good thing too) In conditions other than military use in the middle east,
there is no harm to either type somebody chooses to use. I still use a Haarts
mercury filled guide rod that i happened to have.
 
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