Jammer Six
New member
Took me about six months.
The hammer strut and thumb safety that I broke were both MIM.
Order of Fit: slide, frame, barrel & bushing
- Thread starter Shorts
- Start date
The hammer strut and thumb safety that I broke were both MIM.
Dean Taylor
Inactive
I am also curious about the hammer strut that broke. What brand in what?
I have shot 1911s over 50 years and easily over 1 million rounds and have never broken a hammer strut. Why have I not had tgrouble when it only took Jammer 6 months to break one?
Bob - you have made it clear you do not like CMC parts. Specifically whose trigger group parts do you like? I am an amatuer metal worker. Thank you in advance for your answer.
Dean
deanrtaylor@att.net
410-952-7848
I have shot 1911s over 50 years and easily over 1 million rounds and have never broken a hammer strut. Why have I not had tgrouble when it only took Jammer 6 months to break one?
Bob - you have made it clear you do not like CMC parts. Specifically whose trigger group parts do you like? I am an amatuer metal worker. Thank you in advance for your answer.
Dean
deanrtaylor@att.net
410-952-7848
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Alrighty, I ordered a CMC sear and hammer from Brownell's, so......
And sometime this afternoon my Novak sights arrived. I didn't realize how hefty they were. I know they don't go on until later later, but I thought I'd show 'em off.
Bill Z, my camera is a Nikon 4800 I just picked up a few weeks ago. It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I found it for a pretty good price after some searching.
And sometime this afternoon my Novak sights arrived. I didn't realize how hefty they were. I know they don't go on until later later, but I thought I'd show 'em off.
Bill Z, my camera is a Nikon 4800 I just picked up a few weeks ago. It was a little more than I wanted to spend, but I found it for a pretty good price after some searching.
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Well, while I was talking about hammer and sears if you would have read the entire statement, not struts and safeties, I have a broken Ed Brown laying around here that came off of a pistol and a really bad C&S safety. The breakage on these can sometimes be attributed to poor fitting. I've never had a strut fail or seen one fail, that is why I am curious as to where they break. I could see where poor fitting, or I should say the lack of fitting one/checking one would cause undo stress and cause this, but would like to know the weak point to see if my theroy makes sense. Same for the thumb safety, where did it break? The EB I have broke at the pin, but appeared to be caused by the lifting action 90* to the frame as in when it's dissasembled. I think there muxt have been a bind somewhere.
Shorts, that camera seems to be worth the bucks. I use a Sony DSC-85, probably discontinued by now, and use the manual settings. I don't think I can get nearly that close with the macro though, especially with that clarity. You get what you pay for and that camera may be one I look to upgrade too in the future.
I think so, I'm really loving it. I never tried the macro on our other camera, so I can't compare it to this one. Although the optical and digital zoom on it was 3-4x. The optical zoom on this Nikon is 8.3x. The features on it are nice. Normally I don't use the "froo froo" buttons for different scenes and conditions, although on this camera, I am. I can definitely see the better quality in the pics. Coupled with a 256mb card, the possibilities are endless! .....until I kill the battery 
Alright, I got my vise set up today on my work table. I forgot how much I enjoy putting stuff together
I punched the center with my cool spring loaded punch, drilled a pilot w 5/32", then 3/8" and finished with 1/2". I got everything secured with parts from my garage bucket. I did have to deal with too fat, too long or too short, hence the stacked washers on the 2x4. We'll see if they break and I catch the flying debris, but so far so good. Maybe later on when I hit Home Depot I'll get some new hardware and switch them out. I also have leather straps curing in the jaws to protect the work.
Alright, I got my vise set up today on my work table. I forgot how much I enjoy putting stuff together
I punched the center with my cool spring loaded punch, drilled a pilot w 5/32", then 3/8" and finished with 1/2". I got everything secured with parts from my garage bucket. I did have to deal with too fat, too long or too short, hence the stacked washers on the 2x4. We'll see if they break and I catch the flying debris, but so far so good. Maybe later on when I hit Home Depot I'll get some new hardware and switch them out. I also have leather straps curing in the jaws to protect the work.
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Dave Sample
Moderator
Listen to me very carefully, Shorts. When I had to put the Online1911 Class together I had to select parts that would work for a first time builder. There is no way I know of to teach you or anyone else to do Sears , Disconectors, and Hammer Hooks over the Internet, period. It would entail a very expesive Bob Marvel sear and hammer jig jig and add $150.00 to the price of the tools and the resulting trigger pulls would be very erratic. I would not know where to begin to tell someone where to set the set screw or rollers or whatever on a jig. They would have to follow Bob's instructions to the letter and use expensive parts that would be ruined daily. My sear jig remains the same as it has been for 20 years. It is a Wilson that used to cost about $20.00 landed and it is great for me.
People who have not spent 20+ years learning how to do action work like to use pre-fit trigger groups that go in pretty easy. I have done that myself lately with a Dane Burns trigger group that he sent me a few years ago to test. It is in the 400 Cor Bon EAGLE III as we speak. That one is unfired as yet because I have been casting bullets and ordering various stuff so I can do some up to date load development for that load. Peter Pi seems to be stuck there and there needs to be some more messing around with this cartridge.
The new C E LE MAY 45 has a Ted Yost trigger group in it that was a hard one to use for me, as the holes in the sear and hammer were too small and the hammer hooks had to be re-cut on the mill to get rid of the wire cut on the 90 degree angle. I am picky about this and i called Ted before we cut it abd asked his permission to do it. He gave it freely and I made them work with a beautiful 3 lb trigger pull using a stock black short plastic trigger that was in the spart parts bin.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME OR AT THE OFFICE!
Pistolwrench quoted me on another forum and said:
"Yesterday I couldn't spell pistolsmith, and now I are one!"
I am sure Chip will get along fine without selling his parts to Bob Hunter as he has done very well in the parts business with pals like me who do not like to denigrate suppliers for no reason. I am buying 24 sets of parts this year not including the extra stuff I use personally.
Bob Marvel told us his new jig reallky is the hot ticket to sucess with trigger work. We has a long talk with him at The Shot Show. His work is very beautiful and he is a very sharp man.
Here is Bob and Bruce at the Caspian Booth in late January talking about 1911's? He builds some really fancy Caspians that have a lot more Bling than ours. They are also very accurate and have wonderful trigger pulls that I will never come close to. Mine work OK and are long lasting, but Bob is light years ahead of me in the trigger pull department.
I have an Old Nikormat 35mm that I love dearly. It cam used from the Denver Post and it is an antique now. I love your camera, Shorts.
I have shot about 500,000 and have never broke a hammer strut. I am amazed at the talent it must take to do that! Wow is me!
People who have not spent 20+ years learning how to do action work like to use pre-fit trigger groups that go in pretty easy. I have done that myself lately with a Dane Burns trigger group that he sent me a few years ago to test. It is in the 400 Cor Bon EAGLE III as we speak. That one is unfired as yet because I have been casting bullets and ordering various stuff so I can do some up to date load development for that load. Peter Pi seems to be stuck there and there needs to be some more messing around with this cartridge.
The new C E LE MAY 45 has a Ted Yost trigger group in it that was a hard one to use for me, as the holes in the sear and hammer were too small and the hammer hooks had to be re-cut on the mill to get rid of the wire cut on the 90 degree angle. I am picky about this and i called Ted before we cut it abd asked his permission to do it. He gave it freely and I made them work with a beautiful 3 lb trigger pull using a stock black short plastic trigger that was in the spart parts bin.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME OR AT THE OFFICE!
Pistolwrench quoted me on another forum and said:
"Yesterday I couldn't spell pistolsmith, and now I are one!"
I am sure Chip will get along fine without selling his parts to Bob Hunter as he has done very well in the parts business with pals like me who do not like to denigrate suppliers for no reason. I am buying 24 sets of parts this year not including the extra stuff I use personally.
Bob Marvel told us his new jig reallky is the hot ticket to sucess with trigger work. We has a long talk with him at The Shot Show. His work is very beautiful and he is a very sharp man.
Here is Bob and Bruce at the Caspian Booth in late January talking about 1911's? He builds some really fancy Caspians that have a lot more Bling than ours. They are also very accurate and have wonderful trigger pulls that I will never come close to. Mine work OK and are long lasting, but Bob is light years ahead of me in the trigger pull department.
I have an Old Nikormat 35mm that I love dearly. It cam used from the Denver Post and it is an antique now. I love your camera, Shorts.
I have shot about 500,000 and have never broke a hammer strut. I am amazed at the talent it must take to do that! Wow is me!
Jammer Six
New member
So was I, Bill.
I broke a MIM hammer strut and thumb safety (both stock parts on a Springfield Milspec), I replaced the stock hammer and sear with McCormick parts (are they the same as "CMC"?) because they were cheap, and wore them out in about six months.
I'm not sure we're helping Shorts with all this foolishness, but I would like to know if CMC is the same as McCormick, it would explain a lot of other things I've read recently.
The strut I broke snapped almost exactly in half.
The thumb safety broke right next to the pin, that is, the unbroken pin remained in the hole, but the lever and the rest of the safety snapped off it, at the juncture of the pin and the lever.
I was on the firing line in both instances, with the thumb safety, I loaded the weapon in the middle of a stage, racked the slide, and tried to put the safety on, but it wouldn't go, because it was broken.
With the hammer strut, again in the middle of a stage, the hammer was suddenly no longer under tension.
I broke a MIM hammer strut and thumb safety (both stock parts on a Springfield Milspec), I replaced the stock hammer and sear with McCormick parts (are they the same as "CMC"?) because they were cheap, and wore them out in about six months.
I'm not sure we're helping Shorts with all this foolishness, but I would like to know if CMC is the same as McCormick, it would explain a lot of other things I've read recently.
The strut I broke snapped almost exactly in half.
The thumb safety broke right next to the pin, that is, the unbroken pin remained in the hole, but the lever and the rest of the safety snapped off it, at the juncture of the pin and the lever.
I was on the firing line in both instances, with the thumb safety, I loaded the weapon in the middle of a stage, racked the slide, and tried to put the safety on, but it wouldn't go, because it was broken.
With the hammer strut, again in the middle of a stage, the hammer was suddenly no longer under tension.
Dave Sample
Moderator
Metric gun with CMC parts installed. Very Interesting to me. But what do I know?
Handy: I think that MIM is a very poor choice of metal for a hammer strut. On the other hand, I don't know what an Ed Brown hmmer strut is made of. All I know is that they work fine for me and have worked fine for a good many years. I have not been happy with anything else. I have never had one break but we work them over and install them with compatable parts. I teach my students to install a hammer strut and do not view them as "Drop In's". If done incorrectly they can hit the back of the beavertail and cause a twang noise everytime the hammer is dropped. We had a Colorado smith that was famous for this.
Less you don't understand, Pistolsmithing is a highly skilled occupation and in my opinion, takes years to learn.
We are helping Shorts because I like her Spirit and her trying to do something neat for herself. I like to help others if they want my help and until she tells me to get lost, I will be on her team. You can take that to the bank! She has undertaken a project that I would never even try , but I will try to help her anyway I can with the small details here and there. It is my pleasure, Sirs amd Madames.
Handy: I think that MIM is a very poor choice of metal for a hammer strut. On the other hand, I don't know what an Ed Brown hmmer strut is made of. All I know is that they work fine for me and have worked fine for a good many years. I have not been happy with anything else. I have never had one break but we work them over and install them with compatable parts. I teach my students to install a hammer strut and do not view them as "Drop In's". If done incorrectly they can hit the back of the beavertail and cause a twang noise everytime the hammer is dropped. We had a Colorado smith that was famous for this.
Less you don't understand, Pistolsmithing is a highly skilled occupation and in my opinion, takes years to learn.
We are helping Shorts because I like her Spirit and her trying to do something neat for herself. I like to help others if they want my help and until she tells me to get lost, I will be on her team. You can take that to the bank! She has undertaken a project that I would never even try , but I will try to help her anyway I can with the small details here and there. It is my pleasure, Sirs amd Madames.
Well, it breaking in the middle would fit my theory. Sometimes the geometry between the parts will be bad and the strut will hit in the MSH or as Dave says the grip safety. I can see where tis could add stress to the part, especially during a recoil cycle while being fired, and causing the break. The material it is made out of wouldn't matter much here I don't think.
I always invisioned one breaking at what I would consider the weakest point, the ring at top. I have serrated these in the past, removing material from here, and have never had one break, so it is interesting to me that one wouild break at the thickest portion. That is also the general area you would get the impact or rub though.
Now, splain me the wearing out of the hammer and sear. What wore out? Were they altered? Were they checked for even contact when they were installed? Was it even wear or one side ot the other? The MIM is normally very hard, so I find this curious also.
I always invisioned one breaking at what I would consider the weakest point, the ring at top. I have serrated these in the past, removing material from here, and have never had one break, so it is interesting to me that one wouild break at the thickest portion. That is also the general area you would get the impact or rub though.
Now, splain me the wearing out of the hammer and sear. What wore out? Were they altered? Were they checked for even contact when they were installed? Was it even wear or one side ot the other? The MIM is normally very hard, so I find this curious also.
Hunter Customs
New member
First I want to apologize to Shorts as I do believe this thread has drifted off topic. That being said seeing that my name is being thrown around with things some seem to think I said I feel I must respond to this.
Dave and Dean,
Not once did I name CMC parts when I made reference to MIM parts. If you go back and read what I said I'm sure you will see this. As a professional I do not come to a public forum and bad mouth manufactures or other smiths as some seem to take pride in doing on this forum. By the way Dave MIM is not the type of steel but the process in which the part is made.
Dean,
You ask what parts I use, I believe I can see where this is going. However just in case you are sincere I've used several different manufactures parts over the years again being a professional it will serve no purpose to post their names. I will say that some parts were cast some were barstock some were forged all have served me well. Brownell's (not name dropping Bill just fact) does a pretty good job of listing the manufacture process of the parts they sell. However if it's not listed contact the manufacture of the part you are interested in I believe most will tell you the process in which the part was made.
Seeing that you are a student of metallurgy I do believe what would better serve Shorts or anyone thats reading this thread is if you would explain the difference between ways to manufacture parts such as, die casting, investment casting, drop forging, and hammer forging. If you would be so kind to do this I'm sure they would have a better understanding of the MIM debate and see why you believe it's structually surperior or even as good as the other processes in manufacturing parts.
To all that may be concerned,
It's plain to see that Dean, Dave, and Bill prefer to use and endorse using MIM parts when building their guns. I have no bones with this as that is their business.
My business is to give my customers the best value for their dollars spent without handing them a substandard gun.
Here's a little food for thought. If MIM is such a great process in manufacturing parts I wonder why the major players in the industry are not using it to manufacture barrels, slides, and frames? Barrels, slides, and frames have been made from the process of casting and forging.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
Dave and Dean,
Not once did I name CMC parts when I made reference to MIM parts. If you go back and read what I said I'm sure you will see this. As a professional I do not come to a public forum and bad mouth manufactures or other smiths as some seem to take pride in doing on this forum. By the way Dave MIM is not the type of steel but the process in which the part is made.
Dean,
You ask what parts I use, I believe I can see where this is going. However just in case you are sincere I've used several different manufactures parts over the years again being a professional it will serve no purpose to post their names. I will say that some parts were cast some were barstock some were forged all have served me well. Brownell's (not name dropping Bill just fact) does a pretty good job of listing the manufacture process of the parts they sell. However if it's not listed contact the manufacture of the part you are interested in I believe most will tell you the process in which the part was made.
Seeing that you are a student of metallurgy I do believe what would better serve Shorts or anyone thats reading this thread is if you would explain the difference between ways to manufacture parts such as, die casting, investment casting, drop forging, and hammer forging. If you would be so kind to do this I'm sure they would have a better understanding of the MIM debate and see why you believe it's structually surperior or even as good as the other processes in manufacturing parts.
To all that may be concerned,
It's plain to see that Dean, Dave, and Bill prefer to use and endorse using MIM parts when building their guns. I have no bones with this as that is their business.
My business is to give my customers the best value for their dollars spent without handing them a substandard gun.
Here's a little food for thought. If MIM is such a great process in manufacturing parts I wonder why the major players in the industry are not using it to manufacture barrels, slides, and frames? Barrels, slides, and frames have been made from the process of casting and forging.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
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Well Bob, if you read my posts, I did say I used different parts and am trying different parts.The CMC parts that we spoke about are what we use for our first time builders, exactly what Shorts is doing. I know, the Devil's in the details and everything needs reading. There is even a very clear and consise reason for using those parts given. Sorry that was lost on you.
Now, the use of MIM is not practical for all applications. It seems to work well in the automotive industry in making crankshafts but not in engine blocks. Your reasoning as to feel it is not suitable for use in some parts of a pistol because you shouldn't make a barrel out of it isn't really a fair comparison. For your comparison to be valid, any polymer gun would self destruct immediatly. Any lightweight alloy or aluminum gun would just self destruct. I've got a Glock on my bench for replacement sights I know has several thousand rounds through it and doesn't look the worse for wear and a Kimber TLE with over 20,000 rounds through it that's not even battered or loose, just dirty as hell since the shooter felt like a boresnake and some gunscrubber was adequate to clean the pistol. While it's a great testimony to the design, it atarted to have a few issues that have been readily resolved. (BTW, didn't have to replace the first part on this pistol, save for the springs, which are not MIM
) We did do some really cool sights on it though.
Now, the use of MIM is not practical for all applications. It seems to work well in the automotive industry in making crankshafts but not in engine blocks. Your reasoning as to feel it is not suitable for use in some parts of a pistol because you shouldn't make a barrel out of it isn't really a fair comparison. For your comparison to be valid, any polymer gun would self destruct immediatly. Any lightweight alloy or aluminum gun would just self destruct. I've got a Glock on my bench for replacement sights I know has several thousand rounds through it and doesn't look the worse for wear and a Kimber TLE with over 20,000 rounds through it that's not even battered or loose, just dirty as hell since the shooter felt like a boresnake and some gunscrubber was adequate to clean the pistol. While it's a great testimony to the design, it atarted to have a few issues that have been readily resolved. (BTW, didn't have to replace the first part on this pistol, save for the springs, which are not MIM
) We did do some really cool sights on it though.Well, I've read a while back the difference in forging, casting, MIM and stamped. My take on the MIM parts is that quality in the production process will yield quality in the perfomance. While MIM is easier to 'screw up' and make the part weak right off the bat, when done right, it should perform well.
Hunter Customs
New member
Bill,
Does your plastic gun have plastic rails? Have you ever seen a Aluminum frame fail? I have, it's a well known fact that aluminum frame guns are great for carry but it always seems the concensus is to not shoot an aluminum frame gun a lot. This holds especially true with high pressure loads such as plus P loads. For general information there is an alloy on the market that's as light as T6 but twice as strong and is as easy to machine as T6 but that's another story. Anyone who does not think the hammer in a 1911 style pistol is a high stress part might want to take another look at the hammer and what happens when the gun is fired. I've seen and replaced MIM hammers with the hooks sheared off, I don't find this to be a good thing.
I also don't find 20,000 rounds as that much of a test. When the test gun gets past 100,000 rounds of ammo that's making a 210 plus power factor (no powder puff loads) and about 200,000 dry firings let me know.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
Does your plastic gun have plastic rails? Have you ever seen a Aluminum frame fail? I have, it's a well known fact that aluminum frame guns are great for carry but it always seems the concensus is to not shoot an aluminum frame gun a lot. This holds especially true with high pressure loads such as plus P loads. For general information there is an alloy on the market that's as light as T6 but twice as strong and is as easy to machine as T6 but that's another story. Anyone who does not think the hammer in a 1911 style pistol is a high stress part might want to take another look at the hammer and what happens when the gun is fired. I've seen and replaced MIM hammers with the hooks sheared off, I don't find this to be a good thing.
I also don't find 20,000 rounds as that much of a test. When the test gun gets past 100,000 rounds of ammo that's making a 210 plus power factor (no powder puff loads) and about 200,000 dry firings let me know.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
Dave Sample
Moderator
All pistolsmiths have their own opinion about parts. To imply that I do not know what the MIM Process is interesting since I have posted that process of taking metal and plastic in a very fine mixture and the amount of each strictly measured, getting it really hot, and then injecting into molds, letting it cool popping it out, and then machining it, is kind of silly. Bob does not have any idea of what I know or don't know, but I can assure you that if I didn't know, I would not say anything.
Shorts is a first time builder by anyone's standards. She has not indicated to me that she has built a bunch of other guns so I am trying to help her get her First Project done to HER satisfaction, not mine. I am a 45ACP Man and She is a 9mm Woman. So be it. I have built 9mm's in a 1911 configuration and have built 9mm Majors for IPSC Shooters. I have also built a couple of .40 S&W's but will not longer waste my time with that caliber which I deem a poor choice for high end 1911 work. I like the.401 bullet size in my 400 Cor Bon, but that is a fun thing with me and is a Toy Gun. I don't pretend that it is anything else. It will never be for sale and will go to my son who likes wildcats like I do. I really wish some days that I still had the 10mm Centaur instead of that beautiful diamond ring, but a trade is a trade and we cannot snivel and whine about getting $4000.00 worth of diamonds for a shooter. I had converted it to 400 Cor Bon before I traded it.
I have to apologize for wandering off topic and it is not intentional. I am an old man now and love to ramble on about nonsense that is not pertainent to the subject.
Shorts! You go Girl!
Shorts is a first time builder by anyone's standards. She has not indicated to me that she has built a bunch of other guns so I am trying to help her get her First Project done to HER satisfaction, not mine. I am a 45ACP Man and She is a 9mm Woman. So be it. I have built 9mm's in a 1911 configuration and have built 9mm Majors for IPSC Shooters. I have also built a couple of .40 S&W's but will not longer waste my time with that caliber which I deem a poor choice for high end 1911 work. I like the.401 bullet size in my 400 Cor Bon, but that is a fun thing with me and is a Toy Gun. I don't pretend that it is anything else. It will never be for sale and will go to my son who likes wildcats like I do. I really wish some days that I still had the 10mm Centaur instead of that beautiful diamond ring, but a trade is a trade and we cannot snivel and whine about getting $4000.00 worth of diamonds for a shooter. I had converted it to 400 Cor Bon before I traded it.
I have to apologize for wandering off topic and it is not intentional. I am an old man now and love to ramble on about nonsense that is not pertainent to the subject.
Shorts! You go Girl!
Well, gee Bob, I never said that the hammer wasn't high stress, but is it high stress at the hooks or at the strut hole and hammer face and neck? Consider the hole on a hammer strut. Jammer had a strut break, but not at the hammer pin hole. I serrate these on occasion to 'sign' my work depleting the material by about 30%. Still never had one break.
You've never seen a forged hammer break? I have. I've also seen a forged frame break. This is all a matter of semantic's I think. Hell, these use MIM on internal parts of an engine that will see more cycles in a week than any gun will ever see in a lifetime. MIM may not be great stuff, but it sure ain't bad stuff. Cast parts can be victim to the same problems MIM can be, and heat treating can be bad on any parts. Ask Novak about there adjusting screws on the forst batch of Combat adjustables they sent out. They got screwed by there heat treater and had sight adjusting screws breaking. (BTW, they made good on every one and solved the problem. It's a great sight that I'm working with right now on a big project and like the sight.)
I have ntohing against forged or tool steel parts, I use them regularly. I also have a great deal of experience with the proper parts selection for first time builders that are learning over the internet, and what works for them. I would dare say that I am amoung the few that have the most experience doing this. Shorts is a first time builder and it was mearly suggested to her to use these parts. They work very, very, well. Hell, Kimber puts them in 50,000 guns a year, more than you and I and Dave and any dozen one or two man shops will ever build in a lifetime combined. I'd say for the failure rate, that's a pretty good test. Of course, I haven't seen a Kimber hammer or sear fail, and have only heard of a few, but no more than Colt or SA or anyone else.
Bob, I wish you continued success in your endeavors, you have great business practices and I like a fellow that sticks by his guns, but do you really think that it is better for a first time builder to play with a hundred dollar trigger group without the benefit of proper training that really has to be done first hand?
You've never seen a forged hammer break? I have. I've also seen a forged frame break. This is all a matter of semantic's I think. Hell, these use MIM on internal parts of an engine that will see more cycles in a week than any gun will ever see in a lifetime. MIM may not be great stuff, but it sure ain't bad stuff. Cast parts can be victim to the same problems MIM can be, and heat treating can be bad on any parts. Ask Novak about there adjusting screws on the forst batch of Combat adjustables they sent out. They got screwed by there heat treater and had sight adjusting screws breaking. (BTW, they made good on every one and solved the problem. It's a great sight that I'm working with right now on a big project and like the sight.)
I have ntohing against forged or tool steel parts, I use them regularly. I also have a great deal of experience with the proper parts selection for first time builders that are learning over the internet, and what works for them. I would dare say that I am amoung the few that have the most experience doing this. Shorts is a first time builder and it was mearly suggested to her to use these parts. They work very, very, well. Hell, Kimber puts them in 50,000 guns a year, more than you and I and Dave and any dozen one or two man shops will ever build in a lifetime combined. I'd say for the failure rate, that's a pretty good test. Of course, I haven't seen a Kimber hammer or sear fail, and have only heard of a few, but no more than Colt or SA or anyone else.
Bob, I wish you continued success in your endeavors, you have great business practices and I like a fellow that sticks by his guns, but do you really think that it is better for a first time builder to play with a hundred dollar trigger group without the benefit of proper training that really has to be done first hand?
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