My choice to carry a revolver CONFIRMED in a big way...

I use LOTS of oil (after LOTS of Hoppe's #9) on both my 1911 AND on all my revolvers. Never has caused me any problem ... and my first handgun purchase was back in the mid-sixties ... a Ruger Blackhawk .41mag, for $67.50 NIB.
 
I use LOTS of oil (after LOTS of Hoppe's #9) on both my 1911 AND on all my revolvers. Never has caused me any problem ... and my first handgun purchase was back in the mid-sixties ... a Ruger Blackhawk .41mag, for $67.50 NIB.
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Repent while there is still time. : )
 
I dont mean to be a jerk but I call BS. UNLESS every one of those people were shooting keltecs and cheap 1911s. Ive shot many idpa matchesand can count on two hands the number of malfunctions Ive seen in matches. 90% of which were 1911s. Personally (with a glock, not a fan boy) Ive experienced one malfunction which was due to my own reloads being to long overall.

And to make a point, the downside to revolvers is when they do go down, its usually all the way to the gunsmith unfortunately. Ask me how I know.
 
Got my first CF semi auto pistol in Feb of 1973 (still have it). Over the past 42 years I have owned and shot Colt 1911s, clone 1911s, S&W 39s and 59s, Walther P38s, Lugers, a CZ 52, a Hungarian 380, A PPK, Hi-Power clone, and God only knows what else. Can't EVER recall having a failure with any of them.

Tens of thousands of rounds fired with no jams, failures to feed or fire...nothing.

I have had numerous failures with revolvers.

I guess my experience differs from that of the instructor.
 
Man, you're really lucky with all that shooting. I'm surprised someone who shoots that much can experience not one jam in an autoloader, especially shooting a luger ;) ....hasn't been my experience though.
 
"You are correct but, as I remember, the star was "wet behind the ears" and the flakes stuck to the lubricant. A further caveat might be to keep this area as dry as practical."

Good point, and yet another reason why I use cleaner burning ball powders for the majority of my reloading.
 
"Finally, resist the temptation to lube the cylinder, extractor, crane/yoke, and/or ejector rod. These parts don't need to be lubed and all lubrication will do to them is leave unwanted residue and/or attract dirt and grime. At best, dried oil or grease will make the cylinder turn sluggishly and negatively affect the feel of the action. At worst, it will attract dirt, unburnt powder, and other debris and cause the dreaded "junk under the extractor jam.""

Actually, I disagree with that, but only in as much as I use dry teflon lubes in those areas.
 
saxonpig said:
Got my first CF semi auto pistol in Feb of 1973 (still have it). Over the past 42 years I have owned and shot Colt 1911s, clone 1911s, S&W 39s and 59s, Walther P38s, Lugers, a CZ 52, a Hungarian 380, A PPK, Hi-Power clone, and God only knows what else. Can't EVER recall having a failure with any of them.

Tens of thousands of rounds fired with no jams, failures to feed or fire...nothing.
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You either have a very selective memory or have seriously wasted your life by not buying lottery tickets. You could own the world with that kind of luck.

Too bad you didn't help the US Army out in the 1984 pistol tests. The manufacturers themselves couldn't duplicate your performance and they were only trying to fire hundreds of rounds, not tens of thousands!

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I bet if you send the Army your name and history of perfect semiauto firearms operation, they would be eager to learn your secrets for the upcoming pistol tests!
 
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Sax,
No offense, but I find it impossible to believe you've burned off tens of thousands of rounds in that wide a spread of pistols over 42 years, without a single malfunction. :)

I go through several brand new pistols a year as part of my job, and occasionally even those will misfeed, misfire, or just plain get balky.
Talking quality stuff from premium makers.

Besides the which, I got my first centerfire pistol, a Colt Commander, in 1976, and during all the years since, I've had personal pistols that occasionally didn't want to feed, extract, or eject, too.

If you've truly never experienced a malfunction in a centerfire auto-pistol, you have the most utterly phenomenal luck in the world. :)
Denis
 
And a knife is far more reliable than a revolver. I still prefer to have a semi-auto when it hits the fan.
Preferably Glock. 9mm. 19 or 26. Maybe 43 if my wife starts carrying one. Having the same gun is probably more valuable than a double stack.

Even so, I'll always take my FS II pattern knife anywere I expect to be using a gun. As long as I don't let go of it, it will work. If it has a catastrophic failure(broken blade) it is trash.
 
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I dont mean to be a jerk but I call BS. UNLESS every one of those people were shooting keltecs and cheap 1911s. Ive shot many idpa matchesand can count on two hands the number of malfunctions Ive seen in matches. 90% of which were 1911s. Personally (with a glock, not a fan boy) Ive experienced one malfunction which was due to my own reloads being to long overall.

And to make a point, the downside to revolvers is when they do go down, its usually all the way to the gunsmith unfortunately. Ask me how I know.
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I disagree. Add in new gun owners that probably exhibit a weak grip and no gun control, new guns that have never been cleaned, cheap ammo, and wind driven dirt, you get a lot of problems.

Besides, wheel guns rule the roost. Every one knows this. Some are just slower to realize it! God Bless men
 
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Originally posted by Chainsaw
And to make a point, the downside to revolvers is when they do go down, its usually all the way to the gunsmith unfortunately. Ask me how I know.
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You know this gets repeated like it's gospel, but having owned or shot revolvers made by Colt, S&W, Ruger, Taurus, H&R, and Webley, Astra, Iver Johnson, Freedom Arms, and probably one or two others I've forgotten ranging in age from brand new to 90+ years old, I've only once ever had a revolver go down in a way that required a gunsmith (in that particular case I returned the gun to the manufacturer under warranty). That single incident (broken firing pin) was also the only time I've ever had a revolver malfunction so badly that it wasn't able to at least fire all the rounds in the cylinder.

I've also owned or shot semi-autos made by CZ, Colt, Browning, Walther, Beretta, Norinco, Izhevsky, Radom, S&W, Glock, HK, Sig, Star, Taurus, Ruger, North American Arms, Llama, Colt, Astra, and probably some others I've forgotten ranging in age from brand new to 100+ years old. I've seen at least one failure of some sort with every single one of those brands of gun. Most were easily fixed, but certainly not all. I've had an out-of-spec cartridge stick so tightly in the chamber of my CZ-75 that I had to disassemble the gun to get it out. I've seen a Star BM with a worn sear that allowed the hammer to follow to half-cock each time it was fired and, when the shooter would attempt to re-cock the hammer, it would fall and fire the gun (giving the shooter a nice blood blister on his thumb in the process).

It's not as though revolvers commonly just lock up out of the clear blue sky, they usually give the shooter some warning that something isn't right before they give up completely. If, for example, the ejector rod is backing out or dirt is accumulating under the extractor, the trigger will usually become noticeably heavier and rougher prior to no longer being able to be pulled. If a strain screw is backing out, you'll usually get intermittent light strikes before it stops popping primers all together. So long as the shooter has enough sense to stop shooting when something strange starts to happen and find out what's going on, the great majority of catastrophic revolver problems can be avoided.
 
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And to make a point, the downside to revolvers is when they do go down, its usually all the way to the gunsmith unfortunately
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For a mechanical failure I would agree with you. My only mec failure over years of shooting (mostly Single Action Rugers), was a transfer bar broke right in the middle of bench testing... Glad I wasn't in the woods defending myself! Anyway, that required a trip home and replace the transfer bar. Have had misfires though due to bad primers or light hits though. Different solutions here.

I prefer my .44Spec Bulldog for my CC. No slide to pull, no safety to unlatch (except the one between the ears) ... just pull the gun and pull the trigger if needed. However if I was going to war, or a border patrol man or ... A semi-auto would be preferred, maybe several. The right tool for the right job.
 
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