My 91/30 mossin nagant project

naw id get an m14 or a savage if i wanted to trade this one

the main reason i wanted this gun was its price and the size of the round it uses, ive always shot large battle rifle rounds so im used to the kick anything else seemed like a downgrade.

this rifle was cheap and seems to be reliable and shoots cheap rounds and is easy to clean , i love the bolt on the gun , so smooth and quick its crazy .

id rather just keep modding its other stock im planning to get

but the new front sight thats adjustable is a great way to go
 
Here is a helpful comment. Trade it for a 94 Winchester.
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the main reason i wanted this gun was its price and the size of the round it uses, ive always shot large battle rifle rounds so im used to the kick anything else seemed like a downgrade.
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So why not keep it as a battle rifle, and appreciate it for what it is?
 
Read up above I do PLAN to keep its as a battle rifle it will have quick swap modes to both the original battle rifle stock and parts, and to a sport rifle mode.
so far I plan to use a Boyd's stock with a bipod mounted to it and a long relief scope mounted on a Tri rail setup. The Tri rail system will not alter rear sight mount. I will also have a cheekrest which can hold addition clips and rounds. So basically I'm going to have the rifle as it is but it can become more when the mood hits me. By quick I mean I won't need a gun smith and it can be done with simple setup. Ill post my findings and methods as to how this can be accomplished. Ill post a link to a video of the finished product and how it functions.
Note all mods will be done to Boyd's stock.
 
Are they easy to install?
would I need a gunsmith?
And that would definatly help
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Hammer and a small punch "IF" you do not have a sight adjuster/pusher. I have been told that the sight adjuster for an AK will work for sight adjusting/removal
 
If you are shooting high, then that might be normal for a lot of these rifles because they were zeroed with the bayonet on. This can be easily fixed with a piece of rubber shrink tubing installed over the front post at the correct height. Raise your front sight and it will lower your point of impact. Also, move your target in to 25 yards if you have to until you get your rifle zeroed, then move it out to farther distances. A good site to visit for the correct way to aim these rifles and to zero them out is 7.62x54r.net. There is a lot of info there for these rifles.

I now have a 1929 Tula MN 91/30, hex receiver, ex-dragoon. I came to the realization that the ammo(brown bear)that I was buying had an overall differance in length between one bullet and the next. This overall length differance is as much as 3/32 of an inch shorter from what the original factory specs call for(3.038"). This also makes a differance with how accurately a rifle shoots. I'm thinking about gathering reloading equipment a little bit at a time and reload my own to get the results that I want. Bullet weight sometimes makes a differance too with these older surplus rifles. Find a bullet weight that your rifle likes. That's what I had to do with my .303 British Enfield, Long Branch, number 4, mark 1*. With it, I was able to get my pattern within one inch of the bulls eye at 200 yards using factory loads and iron sights. I brought down a deer with it last year at about 250 yards without a scope.

I'm also thinking about doing some light sporterizations to my 91/30 too. After I get the accuracy problems figured out(I'm still working on getting the inside of the barrel clean!)I'm thinking about putting a NO DRILL scope mount and a scope on it. I'm also thinking about changing the stock too, so I can screw a bipod on the stock. The rifle can easily be put back to original condition whenever I want to. With these changes and the long barrel, I should be able to make a 400 yard plus shot at a deer or an elk and be able to hit it.
 
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More than a few people have told me that the rail that can be installed in place of the rear sight will loosen up and wiggle when one is wanting to use a long eye relief scope and the straight bolt.
 
Ya, I'm going to be taking my time finding a mount for it, but I definately don't want a permanant mount to mess the gun up by drilling and tapping. The 1944 Long Branch Enfield I bought was sporterized by someone prior to me having it. They did a pretty decent job, but I have some drill holes in my receiver. I almost didn't buy it just because of that, but everything else was done good. It has a Marble Arms front sight with a 1/16 bead, with the ramp. It also still has the factory flip up/flip down, micro click, 300 yard to 1300 yard, factory rear sight. It has a 22" barrel(cut off)and the overall length of it is at 41 1/2". It also has the(factory?)2 stage trigger, which is real comfortable to use. It is all matching serial numbers, including the bottom of the magazine too. The dates on these pictures are not correct. I forgot to change the date on the camera after I put new batteries in it.

It's nice, but I have no idea why someone decided to sporterize it when it has completely matching serial numbers. My Mn 91/30 also has completely matching serial numbers, so I don't want to make permanant changes to it too. I had a chance to buy a 91/30 a while back, but on the left side of the receiver someone tried to install a scope mount on it. There was 2 holes driled into it that were about 3/8" round. They only wanted $140.00 for this bubbarized thang(sarcasm!)!! Needless to say, I passed on buying it!
 

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By the way, I figured that I better stay on topic and post pictures of my MN 91/30 too. I've went to 7.62x54r.net to try to find out what some of the markings are on this rifle, but I have some markings that I couldn't find there. It is real easy to see one of the markings in the picture and that is the Roman Numeral number II inside a circle and on the left side of the Tula Star. Does anyone happen to know what this means? There is also another marking that is just to the right above the top point of the star that wouldn't show up, no matter how much flour I used to make it stand out. This isn't stamped very deep, but it is an upside down C with the opening of the C facing to the left. The corners of this C are squared off, but not as much as the refurbishment mark that is below the manufacture date. The C is almost closed off into a rectangle too, but upon close inspection I can see that it isn't closed off completely and there is an opening there. From what I understand, there was 2 tests done to determine whether a rifle qualifies for being a sniper. Does this mark mean that it passed one of those tests? Does anyone have any insight into what these 2 marks are?
 

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The rifle shoots fine. Not high at all it shoots to the right actually. The lower magazine bolt screw was loose a bit. Is tightened maybe that was the cause?
So far my list of sport no damaging mods are easy but pricy all together. Here's a list of the parts I'm gonna go with.
Fiber optic front sight
Tri rail mount Amazon.com
Boyd's thumb hole stock
Black tactile sling
utg. Underrail bipod and mount
Rear stock cheekrest and ammo pouch/holder( holds stripper clips inside and out side has 5 round in loops)
A long relief pistol scope with illuminated cross hairs
This all.together will make a fairly accurate sporter sniper rifle that can be easily swapped back to battle rifle mode.
Easy cheap and simple setup, will make Boyd stock matt black with that black rubber paint. I seem to get sweety hadst when I shoot and I think I should look into grip gloves
 
My mosin is a 1937 non hexagon
I really love my rifle color dark red and its bolt is by far the smoothest I've herd of on a mosin nagant. Its better than my father's bolt action rifle that is newer. The only defect is it had rust on the barrel close to rear ring. It was treated it seems but it is cratered a bit
 
Duzell, sounds like a plan to me! But, could I give you a suggestion? Instead of taking the factory front sight off and putting a fiber optic on, go down to your local hobby shop and get some flourescent model car paint(preferablly an oil based, brushed on paint like Testors). When you go to the range, take some tape with you and wrap a piece of tape around your front post where the bottom of your rear sight lines up with it. Take a few shots with it this way with lining the top of the tape up at the bottom of your rear sight and make sure that you have your tape exactly where you need it for zero. With the tape wrapped around the front post, this will mark the spot for the depth for your aiming point. Take your flourescent paint and paint your post from your tape to the top of your post. If your tape is wraped around your post tight enough, then the paint mark will be exactly at the top of the tape and at your point of aim. Let the paint dry for just a little bit, then carefully take the tape off. If you ever decide on selling your 91/30, then all you have to do is take a pocket knife and scrape the paint off your front post to put your rifle back to original condition. The flourescent colored paint(red, orange, yellow, ect-any color that would stand out)would act the same as a fiber optic sight and might even pick up even more light when it gets to be dusk. Besides that, most of your fiber optic sights(with the shock that's put out, I don't think I'd trust a stick on one!)will require drilling and taping and when you sell you rifle, then the barrel will have holes in it when you try to put it back to original condition.
 
so far..

lol @ rick, me and my father had that idea, we had some old yellow model plain paint that we used on tip of both front and rear site, this tightened my group about .5-1" at 100 and made my group close to 2" at 200


this is the first time i shot it at 100yrds
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i actually havent taken pics of the new grouping buts its better with the paint
this was it shooting stock(nothing added or taken off)

the recoil pad helps all lot when shooting and the cheek pad i find worthless except to store rounds , stripper clips

im looking into getting the Brass Stacker scope mount, nutnfancy has been using his on a bunch of mosins without issue and says its good and alows for adjustable rings

Id also like to post my new project plan so far(scraping the older plan)

1.recoil pad(done)
2.cheek rest(done)
3.scope mount that dosnt need to mod gun* (currently on this)
4.scope/reddot
5.stock(duracoat paint)
6.bipod
7.sling


1> recoil pad (amazon.com)
here

GET IT, this will defiantly help you shoot and actually helps us who are not of russian stature , gives you better a better view to shoot the rifle and makes the recoil very low on your body so less impact
its cheap and easy and does no damage to rifle and its drop in installation. come in black or brown

2>Allen Company Buttstock Shell Holder and Pouch(amazon.com)
here
its nice, small and does what it says, easy to use and no damage or modding needed, i dont use the cheek rest much other than a way to store my ammo. its good and easy to use
 
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we got a regular 1943 mosin to completely redo. i am having the front sight cut off, the rear sight removed an the pins put back then then rounded an the gaps filled to make it look like its not even been there. then its getting drilled an tapped for the Rock Solid mount an red thread-locked permantly into place. then its getting the bolt handle bent instead of cut an welded an we are going to drop it into a boyds walnut an bead the action an free float the barrel. we are unsure yet to have the long barrel cut down an re-crowned to 22" yet. would it be better for accuracy to cut the barrel down? or see were it shoots first then descide?
 
AnIn truth the maximum length of barrel needed to create max velocity for bullet and bot create loss of propulsion is the 22 ,so for accuracy and distance shooting with id do it if its what you want. I like the long barrel look and with brass stacker mount i can still use irons while i have a scope, just in case i damage the scope as i do tactical and wilderness shooting matches with it. I will get the ft stock from boyd as i like the stability and its good for heat displacement due to the high amount of rounds i but out.(like 500 per shooting match and doing so tends to cause my stock to sweat its sealant and stain. But for low amount under 200 its ok. My project is to make a mosin that is interchangeable between standard and sport with no gunsmithing needed. Your project is more permanent just be aware that what your doing cant be undone,so make sure its what you really want because if anything is damaged it will be costly to repair.

If my wording is off sorry i am half asleep
 
There aparantly is a a guy trying to make a 10mosin round magazine for the mosin. He is also talking about makeing a detachable magazine
 
or see were it shoots first then descide?
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Work up some loads with .311 SMK's and see how it shoots first.
Mine was minute of angle, but they are long, thin, "whippy" barrels and can be very inconsistent.

I didn't want a barrel that long, and cut/re-crowned to 22", and it did improve accuracy slightly.

Longer barrels provide more velocity, they may be more or less accurate than a shorter barrel.
 
well as i stated above to reach max velocity the barrel needs a max length on 22, any other length for (30 odd 6, .308 or similar rounds) will just reduce velocity and create drag down the barrel on the bullet and reduce the gas pressure on the bullet while it travels along the barrel(this is easily looked up on the net)

now the problem of doing this is it takes the "historic" quality away.(i personally dont give a darn there are millions of these things)

its just another way to improve accuracy a bit
 
Ummm....

You're really trying to tell me that maximum bullet velocity is reached with a 22" barrel...and this is "easily looked up on the net"??? 'Fraid not...

I guess all of us with 26", 28" and 30" barrels must be nuts.

I'll bite...

Show me.
 
im not saying your nuts or anything of the sort

the typical bullet of a rifle achieves maximum velocity in 22 (30 ODD 6 and similar rounds is what im referring to) that is typically the amount of length needed to burn the gas and propel the bullet, a longer barrel can be handy to keep accuracy higher, but typically the 22 is the minimum range you go to keep accuracy and velocity of a rifle , even a 24 is better in some cases to improve accuracy. now a sniper rifle usually has a long barrel to provide the maximum accuracy and range, but the gas loses its initial momentum and can lower the maximum velocity, but not hamper accuracy, this is a basic ballistic characteristic of a rifle bullet. its just a physics concept that has to do with barrel which is the length to travel from exit of muzzle, and the gas burn rate + amount of inertia placed upon bullet to achieve muzzle velocity. as gas burns it creates energy and applys a force ->, as it travels the gas burns itself out to a point were inertial energy transfer begins to drop. this 22 idea was thought up during the war originally i believe, when extensive test showed rifles of length 22 could still reach the max velocity(look at old war rifles lengths if youd like) so for close combat and weigth loss, the 22 length was easier to use and maneuver with while in combat, unlike a long barreled rifle such as my 91/30 which were typicaly used as sniper long range rifles.

basically its determined by what funtion youd like the rifle to achieve
close combat/ tacticle use that can retain long range capabilities

or

long range and highly accurate at the loss of mobility and inertia
 
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