FrontierGander
New member
completely worthless! Ive never touched one in all the years of muzzleloading.
muzzle loader ?
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
maillemaker
New member
I'd say you certainly *can* clean the fire channel without removing the screw, it's just easier if you do it.
Steve
Steve
Can't trust clean-out screws !!!
Another thing to watch out for, is when the threads of the screw, come into contact with the threads of the nipple. ....
Be Safe !!!
The only channel screw I trust is the one that on a "new" rifle. For the most part, I wish they were not there and yes, I have broken enough of them to learn a lesson. The slotted heads are the worse. ......
Totally agree and can be done very effectively once you get a technique that works for you. ....
Another thing to watch out for, is when the threads of the screw, come into contact with the threads of the nipple. ....
Be Safe !!!
How do you clean the fire channel without removing the screw ?
I found out today that all #11 nipples are not the same, they have different threads. I bought a T/C #11 today and when I got home to put it in found out its the wrong threads, I need a 6MMx75 for investarms.
How do you know when you need a new nipple ? Or do you change them after so many rounds etc ?
I found out today that all #11 nipples are not the same, they have different threads. I bought a T/C #11 today and when I got home to put it in found out its the wrong threads, I need a 6MMx75 for investarms.
How do you know when you need a new nipple ? Or do you change them after so many rounds etc ?
Nipples generally need replacing for two reasons:
- The flash hole through the bottom grows in diameter to the point that ignition becomes unreliable.*
- The owner "dry fires" w/o a cap and gradually peens the nipple wider to where it's hard to seat a cap.
* Sometimes nippls are supplied in which the flash hole is wide open (as for re-enactors). But if it works, use it.
postscript: If you can, replace the #11 nipple with a musket nipple -- and use musket caps (heavy-duty ignition surety)
If you choose not to disassemble the rifle barrel each cleanining (I don't), the barrel's flash channel can be cleaned without removing the cleanout plug by putting one end of a foot-long piece of Tygon tubing tightly on the nipple, and the other end in a pot of hot soapy water. Using a tight patch, pump the soapy water back and forth through the nipple/flash channel and it'll be OK.**
**(Don't forget to then remove/clean/oil the nipple itself (etc) afterwards.)
- The flash hole through the bottom grows in diameter to the point that ignition becomes unreliable.*
- The owner "dry fires" w/o a cap and gradually peens the nipple wider to where it's hard to seat a cap.
* Sometimes nippls are supplied in which the flash hole is wide open (as for re-enactors). But if it works, use it.
postscript: If you can, replace the #11 nipple with a musket nipple -- and use musket caps (heavy-duty ignition surety)
If you choose not to disassemble the rifle barrel each cleanining (I don't), the barrel's flash channel can be cleaned without removing the cleanout plug by putting one end of a foot-long piece of Tygon tubing tightly on the nipple, and the other end in a pot of hot soapy water. Using a tight patch, pump the soapy water back and forth through the nipple/flash channel and it'll be OK.**
**(Don't forget to then remove/clean/oil the nipple itself (etc) afterwards.)
maillemaker
New member
Yup, like Mehavey, said, you can clean the barrel by flushing. I think mechanical cleaning is more sure, but I don't do a complete teardown every clean either.
Steve
Steve
Soak, flush, brush and Q-tips
I use Q-tips, pipe cleaners and I have a small round brush that I can bend around corners. When you flush and pump a non-wooden rod in down the bore the vent in the nipple created a high pressure venturi and it does a pretty good job of flushing the channel. Also the channel hole, into the main channel is not as large as you might think. It too creates a venturi effect into the main powder chamber. ...
Once you have thoroughly cleaned this channel, from neglect a Pipe-Cleaner with some Ballistol or equal, will keep it so. ....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect
I soak, flush and brush. .....
I use Q-tips, pipe cleaners and I have a small round brush that I can bend around corners. When you flush and pump a non-wooden rod in down the bore the vent in the nipple created a high pressure venturi and it does a pretty good job of flushing the channel. Also the channel hole, into the main channel is not as large as you might think. It too creates a venturi effect into the main powder chamber. ...
Once you have thoroughly cleaned this channel, from neglect a Pipe-Cleaner with some Ballistol or equal, will keep it so. ....
When it tells you, there is a problem starting. ....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect
I forgot to say in my last post. I bought some .010 patches and I was able to start the ball in the barrel with a hard push with my thumb then it pushed down quite nicely with the ramrod. Is that too easy and I should stay with the .015 patches ? I mean I really had to push with my thumb and with the ramrod it went all the way down just pushing it, I didn't have to tap it down.
Try going back to the 15-thou patch.
It should take a light tap with a rawhide hammer/block of wood to get flush w/ the muzzle to start.
Then smack the short-starter with the palm of your hand to get it further down to the 4-5" point.
Finally short strokes with the ramrod to get it down to the powder.
Patched-ball should be "smoothly stiff" in seating.
BREAK BREAK: Have you tried Minieballs yet? They start freely, take no patch,
and go to the powder w/ easy ramrod strokes
It should take a light tap with a rawhide hammer/block of wood to get flush w/ the muzzle to start.
Then smack the short-starter with the palm of your hand to get it further down to the 4-5" point.
Finally short strokes with the ramrod to get it down to the powder.
Patched-ball should be "smoothly stiff" in seating.
BREAK BREAK: Have you tried Minieballs yet? They start freely, take no patch,
and go to the powder w/ easy ramrod strokes
FrontierGander
New member
only your patch can tell you if its right or not.
I've had some that loaded like a mother and shot like crap.
Start with the .015" patch, shoot, check the recovered patch for rips or holes. If there are any, you need to go to a thicker patch.
I've had some that loaded like a mother and shot like crap.
Start with the .015" patch, shoot, check the recovered patch for rips or holes. If there are any, you need to go to a thicker patch.
Patches
Rebs: Patch thickness is one of those elements of muzzleloading that is a continuing source of discussion (kinda like asking for a moose milk recipe).
Since you now have both 0.010 and 0.015 patches, you can try them both.
I have six 50 cal. guns - two rifles and four pistols - I use the thinner patch in all of them. They work for me. No burn through. Accurate.
Ymmv.
Pete
Rebs: Patch thickness is one of those elements of muzzleloading that is a continuing source of discussion (kinda like asking for a moose milk recipe).
Since you now have both 0.010 and 0.015 patches, you can try them both.
I have six 50 cal. guns - two rifles and four pistols - I use the thinner patch in all of them. They work for me. No burn through. Accurate.
Ymmv.
Pete
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Another question, I bought a three pack of Lyman nipples #11 with the metric threads for my Italian made ML. When I put a cap on the nipple and shoot the gun the cap doesn't fire until I fire it the second time. If I put the cap on and push the hammer on it to kind of seat it then it fires on the first shot. Is this normal or did I get a defective nipple ? This did not happen with the old nipple.
Normal as rain !!!
Be Safe !!!
It is normal and if not, one could say that your caps are defective. This fit will change with time and going to a different cap. If you like, prefit the cap by pushing them down with your thumb. You could also dress up you cone and later complain cause your nipple are now loose. This is all part of this great adventure. ....
Be Safe !!!
Rebs,
Your nipple is too big for the caps you use. Try one of the other nipples from the 3 pack to see if the cap goes on easier. Often caps are inconsistent in their dimensions. You might also get a larger sized cap. If you are using a Remington#10 then try a CCI#11 (CCI#10s are way smaller than the Rem#10 or the CCI#11) or a Remington #11 cap.
What is happening is your cap is not seating all the way down onto the nipple. The first strike of the hammer is seating it down to where it is contacting the priming compound and the second strike is setting it off. Using the hammer to seat it shoves it down harder onto the nipple cone to seat it but you are risking an accidental discharge. If the range safety officer saw you doing that you'd get tossed out. Get bigger caps. Another option is the RWS#1075 which is close to the Rem#10 & CCI#11 in size.
Your nipple is too big for the caps you use. Try one of the other nipples from the 3 pack to see if the cap goes on easier. Often caps are inconsistent in their dimensions. You might also get a larger sized cap. If you are using a Remington#10 then try a CCI#11 (CCI#10s are way smaller than the Rem#10 or the CCI#11) or a Remington #11 cap.
What is happening is your cap is not seating all the way down onto the nipple. The first strike of the hammer is seating it down to where it is contacting the priming compound and the second strike is setting it off. Using the hammer to seat it shoves it down harder onto the nipple cone to seat it but you are risking an accidental discharge. If the range safety officer saw you doing that you'd get tossed out. Get bigger caps. Another option is the RWS#1075 which is close to the Rem#10 & CCI#11 in size.
I bought a CVA brass powder flask with a 30 gr tube, the problem is it only dispenses 27 to 28 grains not the 30 it is supposed to. Is it defective or this just the way they are, not real accurate ?
Also seen a breech plug cleaning brush, it says it works better than a scraper. Do you guys use the brush, does it work better ?
Will a 50 cal bullet puller work in a 58 cal barrel ? It seems the screw is a little bit smaller and wouldn't expand the ball as much, true or false ?
I truly appreciate all you guys helping me out here. Hope I don't wear out my welcome with all my questions.
Also seen a breech plug cleaning brush, it says it works better than a scraper. Do you guys use the brush, does it work better ?
Will a 50 cal bullet puller work in a 58 cal barrel ? It seems the screw is a little bit smaller and wouldn't expand the ball as much, true or false ?
I truly appreciate all you guys helping me out here. Hope I don't wear out my welcome with all my questions.
Just purchased a Investarms .58 from a member on another forum. I wanted one for hunting purposes and .58's in other than musket form seem pretty hard to find. The Big Boar TC's are getting pretty pricey, and I really wanted something other than a Renegade.
I still have a good supply of round balls for it from previous encounters and it will see hunting experience in a couple weeks if all goes well with it.
I still have a good supply of round balls for it from previous encounters and it will see hunting experience in a couple weeks if all goes well with it.