muzzle loader ?

I think I measured the barrel wrong, I measured 1 flat of the barrel. When I measure across the flats I get 15/16"
 
I took what you said before to be 1 1/16 which isn't odd for an original but is for a modern rifle. 15/16 is a little odd since most .58's are one inch but not unheard of.
 
My Investarms Carbine (since sold) and 28" rifle are 15/16 across the flats. I expected they would be 1" but not.
 
Looks like you got a great deal on a fun to shoot muzzle loader. As far as your question "Is the 58 cal muzzle loader obsolete ?", that is pretty much dependant on your purpose. If you want the most accurate, centerfire like hunting rifle that shoots jacketed bullets atop discs of not so black powder, equipped with modern optics.....Yes, it's obsolete. But the afore mentioned aberations to "muzzle loaders" have also made black powder deer season obsolete it's self in my state. Replaced by an "alternate methods" season that includes not only muzzle loaders, but modern, centerfire handguns as well.
As far as availability of supplies, for around fifty bucks you can get bullet or round ball mold, lead pot, and dipper. With a heat source, and supply of scrap plumbers lead you will have a lifetime of "supplies".
Kinda like they old timers did it!:D
 
But the afore mentioned aberations to "muzzle loaders" have also made black powder deer season obsolete it's self in my state. Replaced by an "alternate methods" season that includes not only muzzle loaders, but modern, centerfire handguns as well.

Ms primitive weapons seasons have become so perverted it's not funny. If you hunt private land and have a sportsmans licence it's rifle of choice and you can now bait deer.:mad:
 
Fortunately Oregon got ahead of the innovations of muzzle loaders and has ruled out in-lines unless they have open (exposed to the elements) ignition of flint or percussion cap only, loose powder (no pelleted powder, loose subs OK), no scopes (irons only), and all lead projectiles (no sabots or plastic bullet parts). When I see these hunt shows with some guy with pelleted powder, covered shotgun primed scoped in-lines I feel sad. They might as well just call it a "single shot rifle hunt" and let guys with their Sharps, rolling/falling blocks, & trapdoors have a go at it too. That is not a primitive hunt. Just a single shot hunt. I have all kinds of respect for the rock lock guys. So, the big 58s are only "obsolete" if your state allows modern designed firearms in their "muzzleloader seasons". Here in Orygun it is just perfect. I have 4 different 58s.
 
No black powder to be found in my area so I bought 1 lb of Pyrodex RS which it says is equivlent to FFG black powder. Is this ok to use and would the charge be the same ? I also bought a 6 pack of charde tubes but didn't notice until I got home that is says on the back of the package or Blackhorn 209. Can I use them for the Pyrodex FFG or do I need to take them back and get different ones ?
 
Use the Lyman Minieball/Crisco suggested above,
the powdered Pyrodex, and 55-60gr by blackpowder
volume measure.
2q3rfk4.jpg
 
The only balls I could find were Hornady #6120 58 cal .570 lead round for muzzle loaders. 228 grain.
 
meheavy - that part that rises behind the nipple is to limit the flash of the cap and protects the shooter and the stock from sparks.
 
Thank you.
These balls are .570 so do I need a .030 patch ? If so can I use 2 patches of .015 or would one be enough ?

Does anyone have a source for mail order mini balls with decent price and shipping ?
 
yeah if you use .030 patch you'll be crying at how your hand feels trying to load them.

Start with a .018" patch and see how that does.

As for your powder tubes, they'll work for all powders but do NOT use the granule chart thats printed on them, that is for blackhorn209, not pyrodex. Get yourself a powder measure.

These videos might help you along the way,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=VEho5cMXsOg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJ0hq_YLcRM

tradit10.jpg

percus10.jpg


Cleaning your muzzleloader,
http://www.frontiermuzzleloading.com/t8832-cleaning-you-traditional-muzzleloading
 
Patches

If the round ball is .570 and you use one patch that is 0.015 thick, you will end up with a ball/batch combo that is .600 in diameter.
You are gonna hafta hammer the dickens out of that to seat it in a .580" bore.
In my 16 gauge smooth bore, .660 bore, I load .640" lrbs with 0.015" patches. Final diameter is .670". I have used 0.010" also. The combo works just fine
 
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a .570 ball and a .015 patch will load nice and smooth in an investarms/lyman barrel. It will also be to thin and show signs of being to thin with holes or blown in half.
 
Rebs,
If you either buy or cast minies be sure to WEIGH EACH ONE as there is a high degree of voids in them. I remember looking at a bag of 58 minies for sale at a gun shop that I would have thrown back into the melt pot. Most had a visable "bubble" inside the hollow base. They are hard to get quality castings and I end up tossing at least 1/3 of them back into the pot. You need a very hot mold to get consistant throws. So weigh them out into groups: plinkers (light), match/hunting (within a couple grains of each other in the mid range of weights), and heavy (probably good for hunting or targets too since there won't be voids if they are heavy). The civil war minies were swaged not cast so there weren't the voids in them.

I get 3-4 inch groups at 100 yds using 90grs FFg and a heavy skirted hunting minie (Lyman 577611 530gr) Target loads with thinner skirted minies are 30-50grs FFg or FFFg. Service load was the 575213-OS and 60grs FFg.
 
Hellgate, I used to get those base voids all the time....:mad: Then I discovered that free pouring
the lead (instead of contact pour) solved all the problems as air could escape as the lead
settled from the skirt up.
 
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