Mosin barrel slugging gone horribly wrong

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A better tack is to heat that brass, aluminum, or steel rod and use the hot poker to burn out the center of the wood and melt the lead out.

TCB
 
I have been thinking about this. You could take the barrel off. Take it to your local hydraulic shop and buy a fitting that will fit it. Hook the fitting up toa high pressure hand pump. Then pump the wood and slug right out the end of the barrel. It WILL work. If it does not work, get a higher pressure hand pump.

The funny thing is we are talking about doing this for a $150 barrel that takes 15 minutes to swap.:rolleyes:
 
That's funny. I've used the grease method on Muzzleloaders and it works just fine.

It probably wouldn't be my first thought with a rifle but it's a good thought.
 
This is starting to turn into one of those mastercard ads.

Slug stuck in barrel $0.30, dowel chunks stuck in barrel $0.99, Spending time talking about how to remove it... Priceless.
 
That's funny. I've used the grease method on Muzzleloaders and it works just fine.
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It works on ML's because you already have a place to screw a Zerk fitting

I suspect you won't find fittings to fit a rifle well enough to hold up to the pressure
 
Another shooter fired five .357 lead bullets into his S&W Mod 27, but forgot to add powder, so four stuck in the bore and one only made it half-way out of the cylinder.

He brought it to me to see if I could take the bullets out, so this is what I did and think it should work on the Mosin barrel.

I unscrewed the barrel from the action, then, putting the barrel vertically in a vise, heated it with a torch just enough to melt the first bullet, then the second, etc. It worked very well and didn't damage the barrel because lead bullets melt at temperatures well below that which would damage the barrel.

In this case, I'd mount the barrel muzzle-upward and apply heat until the lead slug melted out and dropped into a pail. Once that's out, heat may loosen the wood by drying it out, but if not, and it's possible to insert a fired case, use one as a drill guide to drill out some of the wood, using a small pilot drill with the side flutes ground off or taped, so they don't touch the rifling.


That's my best advice, for what it's worth.
 
Why not just take the torch and cut the barrel in half at the area of obstruction and just take whats left of the lead and charcoal out?

To each his own, but there is no way I would shoot a barrel that had a torch put on it hot enough to melt lead out.
 
I'm not saying to heat the barrel to a red state. Remember that machine gun barrels turn red hot and don't blow up, so uniform heating with a blow torch or heat gun shouldn't damage the integrity of the barrel steel.
 
Remember that machine gun barrels turn red hot and don't blow up,
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Nope- they won't blow up, but you've pretty well ruined it.

You shoot a machine gun barrel until the outside is glowing red hot and you've ruined it- the inside is hotter yet ( and subject to very high pressures during firing- even if it's chrome lined, it'll wear much faster like this).

Conversely, if you are heating the barrel with a torch from outside, the outside will be much hotter than the inside, I would think ...... how do you controll the heat such that the inside gets above the melting point of lead (622+F) and stays uniformly hot enough long enough that the wood burns out, yet the heat treatment is not affected?
 
You heat it slowly and turn it, so it's an even heat, and play the torch forward and back, so it isn't a hot spot in one location.

Hey, it's either melting out the lead, pulling it out, or scrapping the barrel. We're talking a cheap Mosin here, not an expensive and fine sporter. It should be fine, if done carefully.

If he has any concerns after clearing the barrel, he could always load some proof loads and fire them with the rifle clamped in a vise or tied to a tree. I might do it on a customer's rifle, but it's probably not necessary if he is careful to not overheat the barrel.

(Lead melts at 621.5°F, which is not going to damage steel, which becomes soft at 1,000°F, nearly twice as hot.)
 
I think we lost the poster or should I say secondary thread starter.

The first was about a mosin.

The Second was a guy with a 308 savage which is 3 pages deep.
 
I know this thread is oooold, but just out of interest:

I'm not sure I'd feel confident in trying this but would a case loaded with just a primer not work?

Needless to say you'd need to point the muzzle in a very safe direction, but could it work? And if not, would it still be powerful enough to do any damage to the gun?
 
I'm not sure I'd feel confident in trying this but would a case loaded with just a primer not work?
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No, because a "squib load" won't usually push a bullet the full length of a barrel, and the brass wouldn't seal the chamber and hold in the pressure

The only way to push it out without a rod of some sort would be hydraulically

The biggest problem is the wood that has split and turned into wedges which will tighten no matter which way it's pushed
 
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