Home Depot cart a Mossberg 500 barrel cut job?

12 gauge can have a nominal diameter of .725 to .750. Whatever it is, that is its cylinder dimension and when you cut off whatever fixed choke was at the end of the barrel, you have a Cylinder choke.
 
I don't pretend to be a shotgun expert.
I don't know much about backboring. Feel free to correct me.
There is the old school chamber,short forcing cone,bore dia.

Then,for steel shot,came chamber,long forcing cone,bore dia

Somebody decided modern wads obturate so well,they could eliminate the forcing cone.

Actually they increase bore dia to chamber dia.
I don't know all the why's and wherefores.

It may be that when you cut the barrel,it will be considerably larger than a normal cylinder choke.
I know,both are zero constriction.

I just wonder how an unchoked backbored barrel will perform,
 
A cylinder bore on a shotgun is limited in and of itself in what it is good for simply because it is a cylinder bore. There is no 'choke' involved regardless of bore diameter.

I don't believe that whether or not your barrel has a forcing cone or doesn't have a forcing cone is going to amount to any notable difference in it's performance, but I've been wrong before.

If you'd like to know though, just shine a light down the barrel from the chamber end, you'll certainly be able to see if it has a forcing cone at the end of the chamber or is simply straight walled from the chamber itself on through.
 
they could eliminate the forcing cone
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Forcing cones exist. Geez, this is not hard to grasp. The diameter of the barrel is cylinder. Whether it is .725, .729, .735, .740, or .750 - typical diameters. Whatever your barrel is, cutting off the choke will leave you with a cylinder choke - perfectly lousy for most applications, but can do OK for HD, maybe slugs (but IC is usually better)

If you don't understand or feel comfortable then take it to a competent smith (NOT some Glock parts changer) and have it done.
 
Reading these post makes me want to go hug my lathe.
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I want to hug your lathe, too.



Having done barrel chops without one - squaring the muzzle of one of them with just a file, even - it makes one greatly appreciate a lathe.
 
Can I ask one final stupid question before I make up my mind to cut the 28" barrel?

Given all this over/back bore stuff, can we make any assumptions if this cut barrel would perform (pattern) equal or worse than a 18.5 cylinder barrel? (I have the 18.5" barrel and it does appear much wider throughout until the muzzle "cylinder" bore.

I sincerely appreciate all the information being shared. Thank you.
 
Nothing stupid about that question.

If the 18.5" barrel that you have is a 'cylinder' bore, then you already have a pretty good idea how your vent rib barrel should perform once you've cut it down to 20".

If you're not happy with the performance after you've cut it, you always have the option of having it cut for a choke tube by a smith to improve it.
 
wild cat mccane said:
Can I ask one final stupid question before I make up my mind to cut the 28" barrel?



Given all this over/back bore stuff, can we make any assumptions if this cut barrel would perform (pattern) equal or worse than a 18.5 cylinder barrel? (I have the 18.5" barrel and it does appear much wider throughout until the muzzle "cylinder" bore.



I sincerely appreciate all the information being shared. Thank you.
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The standard 500 barrel is not overbored... the 835 is.

If you have a 835 barrel next to a 500 barrel, the bore of the 835 is actually the diameter of 10 Gauge. Cannot fit a 10 Gauge in the chamber, but the larger diameter supposedly makes the pattern better/less recoil.

If you cut down your barrel, and compared performance to a similar length cylinder barrel... it would be close (there is always slight differences between fixed choke barrels). Could also be that the cylinder choke could be more improved cylinder...
 
Assuming screwball is correct when he posts that a 500 is not back bored, since you have a 500 you needn't worry about whether or not back boring will affect the use of your shotgun for HD. Still, I looked up what Browning says about back boring and if anyone is interested it can be found here.
 
If you're doing this to learn something, I'm all for it. You might mess up a shotgun barrel, you might learn something, you might do both. As long as you're okay with those outcomes, why not?
 
Given all this over/back bore stuff, can we make any assumptions if this cut barrel would perform (pattern) equal or worse than a 18.5 cylinder barrel? (I have the 18.5" barrel and it does appear much wider throughout until the muzzle "cylinder" bore.
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No, a Cylinder bore is a cylinder bore.. The choke is the constriction for the last inch or so at the end. You won't notice much difference as choke is measured in tenths of thousands of an inch, and you're about to cut off whatever choke your barrel currently has.
 
If you think you can cut it taking into account the barrel taper, etc. have at it - if it goes south, just buy another barrel for $200 or whatever. I personally, would have a smith do it, because I don't trust my ability to take a straight saw blade and cut a round object perfectly square to the bore.

IF you intend to put the bead back on, I would use the current bead as a guide before you cut and mark your center position on the rib. You'll then need to drill and tap, remembering the rib is mostly likely soft aluminum.
 
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