Home Depot cart a Mossberg 500 barrel cut job?

Back in the day CDNN was selling Saiga-12s for $199 each, this was right when the Federal AWB expired via sunset in Sep 2004. I bought 2 in Aug of that year and then the day after the ban expired converted both of them to a regular AK pistol grip configuration..........part of which required cutting the barrels down to 18", I think originally they were 22' or 24". Over the next 6 months I did another 6 conversions. I did all the cuts with a pipe cutter from Lowes dressing the cuts with a dremmel or file. Never had any problems or issues.
 
Could someone look on homedepot.com and post the link of what file should be used to straighten the hacksaw blade? Just picked up the Dewalt 32-TPI blade.

I've used a deburrer before, but I don't know the differences between files.

Thank you!
 
I did all the cuts with a pipe cutter from Lowes
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Using a pipe cutter, as has already been mentioned, constricts the bore as you cut. If it constricts it enough, you may run into issues.

Besides, in the OP's case, his barrel has a rib on it.
 
Perhaps you made a mistake in your post.
You don't want to file the hacksaw blade-you want to file the muzzle.
You want a fine-cut mill bastard file.
You can easily deburr the inside of the cut with a sharp pocket knife.
 
And, worse comes to worse, if you screw it up, a new barrel isn't that expensive to replace.... (although I still opt for the smith performing the work)
 
Ah. "Bastard" removes the most material. The HD guide helped.

Should I pick up a bastard and another one to clean? Second or smooth?

Not sure what to expect the file will do to gun barrel steel.
 
You might be overthinking it a bit.
Try to get a fairly fine flat file that is wide enough to cove the muzzle.

There is no magic tool.Its what you do with it.
 
As others have said, it's not a hard thing to do. I've done several and they all worked out great...and I am exceedingly particular about both aesthetics and function.

If you're hesitating, cut it long...one vent rib post north of where you really want it, and see how it comes out. Learn what you did right...or wrong. Then make the final cut, still giving yourself as much leeway as the vent rib will allow for finishing work with a file to get it squared up.

If you don't trust yourself even after the practice cut, then take it to a smith. He's not going to judge you about the prior attempt.
 
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You got a Go-Pro?

While I hope it goes well, in the off chance it doesn't, comments might be a little entertaining. [emoji41]
 
So it does appear Mossberg barrels are "overbored" or "back bored." The diameter inside the bore is larger than the area at the choke.

I think this might be true to even the 18.5 cylinder choke.

http://www.mossberg.com/customer-service/faqs/
(under the slug question)

Using the information from another site it appears their mossberg barrel cross section is at a Full.
http://rifleshooter.com/2015/07/shotgun-back-boring-explained/

As Mossberg states, anything above Full for buckshot isn't recommended. As I can't guarantee my barrel, I might be risking more than Full.

Looks like this cut isn't hard to accomplish, but mechanically isn't a good idea.

Dang it (until someone corrects my reading)
 
The diameter inside the bore is larger than the area at the choke.
Click to expand...

Of course it is, otherwise there wouldn't be any choke.

As Mossberg states, anything above Full for buckshot isn't recommended. As I can't guarantee my barrel, I might be risking more than Full.
Click to expand...

How do you figure this? If you're cutting more than a few inches off the barrel, there is no choke; i.e. Cylinder, no matter what you started with.
 
I believe that you're misunderstanding what you're reading and have no need for concern.
Your shotgun, or any shotgun, should be (roughly) the same diameter from the front of the chamber to the choke at the end of the barrel.
You are cutting the choked portion of the barrel away.
What you will wind up with is a cylinder bore. In other words .000 constriction.
No worries.
 
Cylinder bore is cylinder bore.

If loads were not recommended before the cut, then they'll remain the same after the cut.
If loads were fine before the cut, then they'll be fine after the cut.*

*Whether they'll perform the same is a question you'll have to answer through testing.
 
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