Have I ruined my Mosin-Nagant?

Yeah I did. Only thing I had on hand was a hair dryer. I heated the outside of the barrel with the hair dryer on high for about 10 minutes. The end of the hair dryer was almost up against the barrel while running. It probably wasn't sufficient heat to help.

-Wintrymix
 
A hair dryer doesn't put out enough heat for that. You need to nearly melt the plastic part inside for that and the barrel will have to be almost sizzling hot to do that.

Tony
 
Where do you live? Because if you're near I'll be more than happy to give you a hand, and if not near me someone else will help you!

And you're not trying to drive it out the muzzle are you? Because if I read your post right you got it stuck as you were pulling it from the breech to the muzzle, you want to drive it out the way it went in.
 
And you're not trying to drive it out the muzzle are you? Because if I read your post right you got it stuck as you were pulling it from the breech to the muzzle, you want to drive it out the way it went in.
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+1 ^

I assumed it was stuck near the breech, and also assumed you would be driving it out from the muzzle end...
 
Might sound stupid.... but what if u borrowed a torch... and sent the flame up the barrel.... That should burn the patches... and melt the plastic enough to hammer & dowel it right out of the barrel.:confused:
 
I like the torch idea!

If he can't borrow a torch, can he put some lighter fluid in there light it and melt it (if wood trim removed)
 
I would definitely push it towards the breach, not the muzzle. Some barrels taper down very slightly (very, very slightly) towards the muzzle (not sure if Mosins do).

Just make sure to protect the muzzle.
 
Ideal tool, what I meant is that if money is as tight as he has indicated, then it is more important for him to be at work earning money than fretting over an easily replaced $90 rifle.
I was working on a soft hillside about five years ago in a brand new $100k john deere tractor. I was cleaning cattle pens and as I raised the loaded bucket, the left front tire sunk and over I went. Couldn't get the loader down in time to save it. Luckily I walked away from it unscathed & was able to go home that night to my family. Tractor was trashed. Point being you were harder on this guy over an honest mistake on a cheap rifle than anyone was on me over a six figure machine. Some things matter. Some things don't. This predicament falls into the second category as long as he learns from (& doesn't repeat) his mistake.
 
The jag must be bored out--CHEMICAL RESISTANT NYLON

I don't intend to throw a wet blanket on the fire, but the OP won't be resolving this easily. The company I work for molds these Jags and swab ends for Michael's of Oregon and Hoppe's.
The jags are made of high temp chemical resistant nylon. Outside of Drano or caustic soda, there are very few chemicals that the OP can use to disolve them.

Back to the 2 main options. A brass rod or a gunsmith.

The material these jags are made from is BASF Nypel 2314C HS BK.
Here is the official description of the nylon

Nypel 2314 HS BK6 is a black pigmented, low viscosity, heat stabilized, semi crystalline, injection molding compound based on recycled PA6 feedstocks. It also offers the following: good chemical and thermal aging resistance, good flow and processability, as well as good dimensional stability.
Typical Profile:
Melt Temperature 240-285 degC (464-545 degF)

Best of luck.
Gearchecker
 
I am sure everybody here would love to take a look a the OP's rifle and help him out.

I think that the chances that he permanently damaged the bore is low.
The only concern that I have is the use of the stock steel cleaning rod, but he stated that he put it back before it got out of hand.

I dont think that any amount of cloth, plastic or brass would damage it.

Without any outside help I think he could sooner or later get it out. just have patience and keep at it without getting frustated.

if I understand the thread, the obstruction is near the breach, and he was pulling toward the muzzle, so, I would try to go toward the breach.
 
New question:
I found a place on-line where I can buy a replacement barrel (no receiver) for about $35. If I were to buy this barrel and screw it onto my receiver and re-assemble my rifle, would it be likely that the headspace would be close to spec?

Aside from remote-firing the rifle and inspecting the spent cartridge for damage, is there any way for me to check the headspacing without taking it to a gunsmith or buying a field gauge?

Thoughts?

-Wintrymix
 
is there any way for me to check the headspacing without taking it to a gunsmith or buying a field gauge?
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Not that I have personally tried.... But others might have some novel ideas involving rubber cementing soda-can shims (0.005" each) to the bottom of a unfired factory cartridge and closing the bolt (no extractor) to find out where NO-GO is relative to the un-shimmed (SAAMI minimum) case dimension.

BREAK, BREAK...

Have you tried that earlier idea of dumping Kroil down the breech to fill the barrel, and letting it sit for several days/a week?
 
If you get your barrel off send it to me and I'll get the block out for you for an extra barrel.

I think your giving in too early, it's going to be a real pain in the arse to get that block out. Get crafty but use brass or wood in the barrel.
 
I found a place on-line where I can buy a replacement barrel (no receiver) for about $35. If I were to buy this barrel and screw it onto my receiver and re-assemble my rifle, would it be likely that the headspace would be close to spec?
Click to expand...
Not likely and getting that barrel off the receiver will be very difficult even if you had the right tools. You will definitely ruin the rifle attempting that yourself.
 
If it is near the breech, then how about an improvised "drill" ..... kinda like the bullet pullers that come with patch and ball rifles? A sharp screw brazed onto the end of a cleaning rod? Screw it into the offending patch/plastic jag a little bit, rip it out ...... repeat to take it out peice at a time ....... maybe a very small peice, but it would be progress ....... pounding on it is just compounding the problem, is it not?

Best of luck to you, and I wish you were closer..... I had a hell of a time getting started reloading, and it seemed nobody wanted to help ...... you don't know how to do anything until you know how, and there are two ways to go about finding out: trial and error and finding a teacher/mentor ....... trial and error is by far the more expensive route.
 
Have you tried soaking the barrel in WD 40 If you have it oiled up really well it may be easier to get it to move with your dowel.
I wish you were closer, Im sure I would be able to get it out for you.
 
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