GP100 or 686? Help me decide which 4" .357

I have some of both, and some of my Ruger triggers are better than the S&W's. The guns are either new or have hardly been fired. I think some just like to repeat what they have seen others say.....
 
I will also say I like the gp100 more than the 686...
I bought a used S&W Model 15 a few years ago, and that started me on a S&W kick. Eventually, I got a 4" 686.
However, in comparison to the Model 15, it just didn't thrill me...and finally sold it.
But, I still wanted a 357mag in the collection.
I ended up finding a good deal on a 3" fixed sight GP100. This is a revolver I really like. The trigger is fantastic on mine...easily the equal of my well used Model 15, and better than the 686 I owned previously. I think that Ruger has improved the trigger on late model GP's.
I can't seem to miss with the GP, and shoot plates at my club...hitting the 10" plate at 80yds is easy.
 
The difference in triggers is significant compared to the Taurus and S&W.

*in my experience, my PPQ had a 50% lighter pull and travel than the GP100 in single action. How is that even possible? Revolvers are suppose to be the tops for SA? I found it that frustrating. I sold it.

686 can equal 7 rounds.

Taurus 66 offers 7 rounds and a trigger almost exactly of the S&W. Great trigger. Lower price than the GP100, better finish all around. I've had no problems.

I've owned all three. (GP100 6", 686 6", Taurs 66 6" and 4")
 
Between a ruger GP100 and a decent S&W, I would choose the S&W. I never liked the trigger on the GP100's. As I remember, it felt loose and gritty. I'm sure the GP100's are rugged and last a long time, but they seem too heavy and I just don't like the trigger.
 
Which one fits your hand best? Nothing else, triggers included(they both need a trigger job out of the box. No weird parts needing a special tool in the GP though.), matters.
The GP fits smaller hands while a 'K' frame Smith doesn't quite fit. Tried for years to get a 19 to fit my short hands. The GP I've had since they first came to Canada fits like it was made for me.
 
The 686 is superior and worth the extra money. Ruger DA revolvers have terrible triggers compared to Smith revolvers. The 686 has better balance and also can offer a 7th shot. Try to go to a commercial range where you can rent both and shoot them side by side. Or borrow them if possible.
 
I don't doubt that that has been your experience, but I do doubt that there is a question of a significant difference in intrinsic accuracy between the two fine revolvers being compared. However, subjective things like sights and trigger pulls can make a big difference in a given shooter's ability to be "good shot" with one or the other.
 
I have two 686s - one 4" and one 6", and a Gp100 match champion.
All three are outstanding revolvers, and built to last a lifetime of normal use.
For me, the smiths are easier to shoot well, and have better triggers.
 
WyMark,

If you can find a 4 inch GP100 with half lug barrel that is the way to go. I think the new Champion would do you very well.

Deaf
 
As others have stated, it is your money and your decision.

I like the post that stated after the money is spent you will forget it. You will have the gun hopefully for a long time, and it is best buy the one you like the best.

I believe you will find the 686 will retain it value better a little better over the years. I bought my used 686-1 five years ago. According to the new "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson", it is now worth over three hundred dollar from my purchase price. It does not matter since I bought what I liked and would not sell it.
 
See, I disagree.

Ruger GP100s start 50 dollars less. That means there are likely more people able to buy a used GP100.

In my experience, I have sold 2 GP100s for $30 or less from what I paid.

A 686, a better gun in my opinion, is more expensive. I believe that limits the potential buyers. Those buyers are likely more discerning and sensitive to just buying new.

Same goes with cheap Taurus guns. I have always lost more cash, percent or cash, on more expensive guns than I have one cheap guns-when purchasing cheap guns at great deals.
 
WYMARK,

I too had the same question last year and the Forum gave me a ton of advice.

It finally came down to which felt better in my hands. The cost had no bearing on my purchase. I bought the GP100 4". I use it 30% as my carry and my SP101 2.25% 357 mag as my main carry when I lived in Tn. I carried it 90% .Since I moved to a concealed State only, I carry as stated above.

Good Luck.
 
I stopped by Sportsman's today and got to fondle both the GP100 and a 6" 586. The Smith is definitely the prettier gun, but I think I'm going with the GP100 model 1702, 4.2" blued for $599 at a local LGS. I couldn't really tell that much difference between the triggers, both seem way better than that SP101 I tried last weekend.

So, as soon as I pay the bill for the BHP I'll be picking up a GP100. Thanks to everyone for all the feedback and advice. Much appreciated.
 
Not too concerned with resale value, this will join all the other guns I've bought, with two notable exceptions. Twice in my younger years I needed money badly enough to sell guns. One was a Ruger Single Six that I gave up to settle a ~$100 debt, the other was an 870. I replaced that soon after with an 870 Express, but that Wingmaster I sold was a pretty shotgun.

My local LGS owner thinks that, just maybe, a 4" blued GP100 will show up at his store on Tuesday. I already bought the holster for it.
 
Can't argue with a good used GP100. Broken in and taken care of a used GP is better than a new one these days.

Anyway, I think the extra steel in the GP's make them more robust compared to S&W and more enjoyable/comfortable to shoot.
 
Have both but in 6 inch and they are not recent. A 686 no dash and an early GP100. The S&W has a better trigger but would pick the GP100 to shoot heavy hand loads with or take in the boonies.

 
I have a stainless 3 inch GP100 and a 4 inch 686, I like them both but the 686 resides in the safe and the GP100 stays in my home office desk drawer ready to go. I paid $450 for the LNIB 686 six or seven yrs. ago and $300 for the good condition GP100 about fours yrs ago at my local gun pawn establishment.
 
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