German Short Haired Pointers

We had a dog who didn't like men in particular, and really disliked either black men (though not black women), or men in brown uniforms. My family most definitely did not teach the dog such dislikes.

In that area, the power company meter readers wore brown, as did UPS. UPS guys didn't tend to go into back yards, though, while meter readers tended to take shortcuts through adjacent properties. So, I suspect a meter reader may have kicked or sprayed our dog at some point.
 
Hansam and buck460XVR have given you some very sound advise. The only thing I can add is to look at the pedigree, if it is stacked with lots of field champions you are going to have a very high energy dog, if the pedigree is stacked with AKC show titles you are more likely to get a mellow dog, not certain, but more likely. As a general rule I have noticed this trend with dogs that we breed and have begun to use it to our advantage.

Likes buck460XVR said a quality breeder is of the utmost importance. Nothing is worse than getting attached to a dog only to find out is has a liver disorder and watching your dog have seizures for the rest of its life or wind up having bad hips or some other problem. I have talked with a lot of people who have had this problem and it is hart breaking for them.

You can probably guess from my user name that I breed labs, and we put a lot of effort into insuring that the pup we supply has the best chance of being a happy healthy dog that will fit with you and your life style. If I don't think I can supply what you need and want in a dog I tell you right up front. A dog is a very long term commitment and it needs to be right for both of you.

This last winter I started looking for a upland dog and was seriously considering a GSP until I did some investigating. The first red flag came up when I started talking with the breeders here in Idaho and Utah and all but one had no idea what I was talking about when I started asking about health clearances.
The second and final came up when I consulted my vet and she informed me that the breed is known for having some temperament issues. While not every dog is going to have issues, she has seen enough of it that she felt concerned enough to say something to me. She said the ones that have problems either start out with them or they develop them as they age. I can't help but believe that this is yet another issue resulting from the incredibly poor standards set by the AKC, the only minimum standard is that both parents have papers.
It appears that some of the posters have experienced this range in temperaments from first class dog all the way to having to put one down.

I would not take getting a high end hunting dog lightly. If they are true hunters you will have more issues than you know what to do with.

By the way I settled on getting a Deutsch Drahthaar, they are the German registered version of a GWP. The breeding standards are very strict.

I do not mean any disrespect to your friend but if he is not a regular breeder then you really need to get a copy of the pedigree and go visit with a reputable breeder before taking a pup. You should also spend some time around the parents and make sure that they acceptable. If you have any questions or concerns please contact one of use and ask away. Its way better to find out know before its to late.
 
Grubbylabs is correct regarding pedigree.

When I'm looking for a puppy to purchase I ask a lot of questions regarding pedigree and health clearances. I also expect that I'll be furnished with these answers in writing - proof basically that what I was told is correct. If these prove to be false later on I have something I can fall back on to correct the issue.

The problem with AKC and other kennel club certs is that for the most part dogs were never really bred to very strict standards. Basically if your dog LOOKS like the breed you claim it to be a you can have "experts" claim your dog is that breed you can get at least a provisional registration for the dog as being purebred. A couple generations later you can start breeding the progeny of that dog so long as you'd bred it with other purebreds of that breed... there is no scrutiny regarding genetic defects, diseases etc. I know that each club has standards that one must adhere to if one is to compete with the dog but there is nothing within those rules and standards regarding the breeding of dogs that are genetically defective. The other thing is that those standards regarding the breeds tend to be nothing more than cosmetic and does not truly address the issue of genetic problems.

That being said I won't purchase a puppy UNLESS its AKC registered or registerable. At least then there's one more layer of assurance that at least the dog is considered a purebred.

As grubbylabs said if you're getting a high end hunting dog there are a whole host of issues you as an average dog owner may not be able to handle. High energy levels is one of them. There's also the very high prey drive. Add a high level of intelligence to the mix and well that's a good recipe for trouble. Be aware of that and know the fact that you will be getting that - and if there are any genetic problems or diseases with your puppy then you can add that to the mix too.
 
That is good info, and confirms what I heard from other people also. I had him give me a few references and I talked to two of them, who both say their dogs are doing well and they have had no problems with them @ 2 & 3 yrs old. Of course I have no way of knowing if the references were legit or not, but for the moment I'll take it as truth and get to see more when I visit him tonight and pick my dog and talk with him.

I will get to meet both parents today too. I should be able to tell how serious he is by his facilities and the look of all the dogs. He isn't my friend, he was referred to me by a colleague of my son whom he works with and has one of his dogs also.

I'm getting the dog with all papers & everything. I wouldn't think of breeding it myself, but it's nice to know that I could and that the papers help to legitimize the transaction.

It's nice to hear the same exact things from you guys that I heard elsewhere about the breeds temperament. I am going to work with this dog a lot. I live about 3 blocks from a park so he'll get plenty of exercise. My goal at first is to get him interested in his job (training) and get him to where I can walk him without a leash (like my Mastiff will). My Mastiff may give me slight problem, he's a big baby and will want to be included in whatever we're doing.

I'll have some pics up pretty quick of him. Thinking of naming him Riggs.:D
 
Here's a bit of advice about training - keep the dogs separate while you're working with them.

If you're working with the GSP keep your mastiff inside/locked in a different room etc. Don't let them interact while you're training or else your training will not be very fruitful. Likewise when you work with your mastiff.

Having multiple dogs and training them at once can be a handful and even for experienced trainers can be a big obstacle. That's when you have dogs of the same temperament and energy levels. Dogs of such different temperaments and energy levels can be even more difficult.

Don't buy a puppy unless you can see a verified pedigree (3 generations or more) and medical proof that the parents aren't carrying any genetic defects and/or diseases that will come up in the puppy as he/she grows. I'm not an expert on what afflicts GSP but in labs you want proof that they're clear of things like EIC, CNM and PRA and hip/elbow displasia. Also definitely get a health guarantee - 2 years is typically acceptable. This is always a must too when you're paying anything more than a couple hundred dollars for a puppy.

In regards to the pedigree make sure that the pedigree shows plenty of documentable and trackable hunting titles (such as MH, AFC, FC etc) and the like... or whatever titles are used in pointing breeds (as they are somewhat different from flushing retrievers). If you're paying more than a couple hundred dollars for a puppy you'll want at least some titles within the grandparents and at least a SH title in both parents. If you're paying more than $500 you'll want some champion titles (AFC, FC) in grandparents and/or parents and definitely look for MH titles in one or both parents. Anything close to $1000 or more and you'll definitely want lots of championship titles and MH titles throughout the pedigree. Basically you'll want lots of MH titles in parents, grandparents and great grandparents on both sides. Also a bunch of AFC and FC and perhaps Master National Champion in the parents and grandparents. In the hunting field this is quantifiable proof that the puppy has good genetics and is capable of accomplishing what you ask of him/her. Even with all of this you're taking a gamble... just less of a gamble than if you bought a puppy with no pedigree or just a plain jane pedigree.
 
Find out how old both parents are and interact with them. Make sure that both parents have good temperaments, if either one is cranky then you have a high probability that the pup will have problems also. If the dogs pedigree is jammed packed full of field titles and hunting titles then generally speaking, not always but generally they make bad house pets because they have so much drive. We cater to the family guy that wants to hunt the family dog so we have found some good combinations that produce dogs with good hunting drive, but behave well and work great as house pets. Of course they also require lots of training. As Hansam suggested no matter what the health and pedigree say it does not guarantee any thing, it just gives the dog the best chance possible.


If you plan on spaying or neutering your dog don't let your vet talk you into doing it as soon as possible. For males do it around a year and for females do it shortly after her first heat cycle.
We have been doing some research on this and we are finding that pups have fewer health issues if you let then develop into adult dogs fully intact. Plus if your dog does have a great pedigree and proves to be one that has more good to pass on than bad it will give you the opportunity to work with a good breeder.

All in all it sound like you have been doing some good homework and on your way to getting a good pup.

Good luck and if you have any questions before you commit to a pup let us know.
 
That being said I won't purchase a puppy UNLESS its AKC registered or registerable.

My last 5 GWPs were FDSB registered. Never bothered with AKC, altho the last 3 could have been registered thru them also. Thirty five years ago, AKC would not allow continental breed pups that were 1st or 2nd generation in this country to be registered with them. But these dogs(I had a couple) could be registered FDSB. This is the route that breeders that imported their sires or dams from German stock had to take. Kinda why I have a sour taste in my mouth for AKC. I believe this rule has now been changed. FDSB is still preferred by many bird dog breeders the same way UKC is preferred by many houndsmen. Many breeders of hunting dogs feel that AKC dogs are breed more for show than for the hunt. It is also the registry used most by casual breeders as it is the best known, thus being AKC registered does not always ensure selective breeding(but then, none of the registries do). Altho it does ensure being purebred and there are many great dogs and breeders that are AKC. All 3 registries now require DNA samples to ensure pedigree before posting of titles. Years ago it was dependent on breeders word.
 
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Hansam, If you could see the goin's on in the hog dog trading you would see how little providence a piece of paper makes...

We want to know the performance of the dam and sire and their ancestors... Papers be danged...

If there was "crossing" in or out going on we want to know what was the traits sought after and how that turned out...

We have so many varying terrains and styles that no one dog breed can excel in all...

For instance we have a style of dog we call a "runnin' catch dog"... Often used 100% solo this dog must find and stop his own hog and stay caught like a bulldog...

One style of cross is "Bird Dog" X Pit... The BD of choice is often a GSP or mostly GSP for the bird dog side...

Many hog doggers have bought bird dogs of proven stock just to use in breeding programs...

But if AKC is mentioned... most hog doggers will have nothing to do with that dog as the AKC is all about watering down performance dogs to look like a real dog but behave like a house mutt...

Also, any TRUE hog dogger does not breed to sell pups... we breed to replace our own yard and if any are left over they may be offered up...

Your previous performance with dam and sire usually sets the price range but many part with dogs for $50 to a real hunter while turning down $1,500 from suspected dog peddler types...

Brent
 
I brought him home last night. He's a little stressed because his family of 20 or more is not here anymore. He smells my dinosaur all over and is afraid and keeps looking for him. I had my son take him for a day or two and then bring them together for the first time in the park and then bring them home together.

He's much better this morning and pretty much sticks to me. He's going to be fine I think. I met the dam and sire and they both look good but the sire is the biggest pointer I've ever seen. He's all stocky and tall and looks like a champion. The breeder has nice facilities and it's real clean and organized. His paperwork was complete. I got a real good impression of it overall. He's had all his shots but rabies and even came microchipped.

I'll put up some pics in a few days after he settles in some more.
 
I think you misunderstood my post Brent. Let me explain.

I won't purchase a dog that isn't AKC papered because I have no guarantee of the dog's pedigree otherwise. That being the case its actually the pedigree (and certification of the pedigree and the accomplishments of the parents - which is tracked, maintained and verified by the AKC) that I'm really interested in.

See I won't purchase a puppy from someone who claims they have a purebred lab/golden/springer etc. and claims they came from great hunting stock but has no proof thereof. I want proof and I want it in paper so if the dog turns out to be worthless I have something I can fall back on to take up with the seller of the dog.

To me AKC registration doesn't mean that its worthwhile just because its AKC registered. The AKC registration means to me that I can actually follow up on the dog's pedigree which is kept and verified BY the AKC and NOT by the breeders. In that pedigree the titles and accomplishments of the parents and other ancestors are kept and recorded. These are not something that can be falsified since these titles and accomplishments must be achieved in AKC sponsored hunt trials and tests. These then are recorded with the AKC and as such a breeder cannot falsify them because the records to not reside with the breeder.

I am also only interested in what a dog can do and what its parents, grand parents and other ancestors did. I really don't care if a dog is AKC registered in itself but that registration brings with it what I REALLY want - verification of a quantifiable history of success within its pedigree.

Now in regards to hog dogging - I fully admit I know nothing at all about it. I don't know how to train a dog for it and wouldn't even dare try. I also don't train dogs for pointing - something I've already pointed out in previous posts. I train specifically flushing retrievers which is a different test and trial than pointing retrievers. As such I only know the basics of pointers and wouldn't consider myself a very proficient trainer of pointers. I could be wrong but I would suspect the same to be true of you and flushing retrievers and their training. Unfortunately though in comparing what you do to what I do we're not really talking about the same thing - more like we're just talking about different types of fruit - say apples and grapefuits. They're both fruits and they both grow on trees but that's about it where the similarities lie. Same with what we each do. Honestly the only things that are similar in what we do (which again I could be wrong but I'd wager I wasn't) are that we use dogs to find our quarry and in looking for a future hunting dog we look for performance based breeding programs rather than show and conformation based breeding programs. Aside from that what we do with our dogs seems quite different. Of course I could say, "Brent, if you could see what goes on in the world of flushing retrievers... etc." Basically what I'm trying to say is that we both are trying to find the best performing dogs however your quickness to throw away the importance of registration with the AKC is considered foolish in the flushing retriever world.

I do wonder how it is then that you quantify the ability of a dog you're purchasing... do you just go by the breeder's word and take a gamble (not saying that the breeder is falsifying the dog's capabilities but really what each person considers to be a good hunting dog is different from someone else) or do you look for something that is verified, quantifiable AND could not easily be falsified? I mean think about it; if I went down the road to Farmer Joe's farm because he has a litter of say purebred labs for sale in search of a hunting dog I'd want a puppy that had the genetics to be a good hunter.

Of course in my mind a good hunter needs to have a really good nose, a keen intelligence so he/she can learn all the commands I want to teach him/her (sit on command despite the proximity of the handler, hand signals to go left, right, back to the left, back to the right, straight back or come in) being steady on the flush and on the shot (which means sitting still after the bird is flushed and shot till ordered to give chase or retrieve) and being able to be called off a mark if the dog is on its way there but there is a different bird we want the dog to get first. Most average hunters don't require this of their dogs and if they can get their dog to find, flush and retrieve a bird (no hand signals, no control of the dog once its off on a search etc.) and do so on a fairly frequent basis for a couple months out of the year then that's a great hunting dog for them. For me if a dog could only do that the dog is worthless. My dogs work every day all year long. They must be trainable to the degree that I need them to get to because I do run trials and tests with them. The other important thing about AKC registration is that a dog without that registration can't earn titles and accomplishments that are trackable and quantifiable. That being the case these dogs and their progeny will be worthless to other trainers and hunters who require the same of their dogs as I do of mine. As a dog trainer I have to be able to show in my dogs what I am capable of training a dog to do. In order to do that I have to have a dog that can do what I require of it.

Without that little piece of paper that you consider worthless I'd be taking a huge gamble that I could make my work pay off. As for doing it for money - absolutely I'm doing it for the money. Yes I genuinely love working with dogs and training them. I love seeing a well trained dog do its work and for me that's a fulfilling experience but I also use this hobby as an income source to supplement my lifestyle and other hobbies. That being the case I can't afford to just take someone else's word on how good a hunter a puppy's parent(s) is/are but I NEED to make sure that this is truly the case. I learned this the hard way in the past doing exactly what you had outlined - purchasing a dog without registration. After working the best I could with the dog I had to sell him off for $50 or $100 as a well trained house pet and nothing else. All the money, time and effort I'd invested had been lost. Make enough losses and you can't stay in business for long.

So in my world that little piece of paper ISN'T worthless and if anyone said to me they couldn't provide registration papers with their dog I would walk away from the deal no matter how good they said the parents were as hunters... even if they were giving me the dog for free I wouldn't take it because I wouldn't have any way of knowing what I could do with it. Its not so much the piece of paper but what it brings with it that is of the utmost importance to me and that is the case with other trainers in this sport - this I can say with assuredness because that is what I've learned from talking with other trainers while I was still learning the trade.
 
While I agree with Hansam about having a dog registered so that you can have proof that said dog is indeed from a quality lineage, I have to say that the AKC has probably done the largest disservice to registered dogs since man started keeping records of them.

If you look at the German version of the German wire hair pointer for example. It is called a Deutsch Drathaar it was breed for a variety of tasks, a specific coat quality to help it do its jobs, and a certain temperament. They (the registering agency) keep careful records of breeding and accomplishments of these dogs. In fact the pups are even tattooed and inspected before they leave the breeders kennel. If any of the pups do not meet the breed standards as a pup then they are registered as a non breed-able dog. For example the breeder I am buying my pup from and one from a past litter that is missing a tooth, that dog cannot be breed. Once the pup is old enough the current owner may then start entering the pup into hunt tests and conformation shows. In order for the owner to be able to breed the dog their dog has to pass several hunt tests where it not only has to point and retrieve, but they have to track a fur bearing animal as well as a few other tasks. If the dog fails to pass these hunt tests they are not allowed to breed. They even have rules on how the two available colors can be breed. Plus the dog has to pass several health tests. Hips eyes elbows and some genetic disorders. All these tests are sent to Germany and can only be cleared by the breeding agency in Germany.

In short they put quite a bit of effort into insuring that the dogs they produce meet the breed standards and are able to do what the breed was intended to do.

The AKC on the other hand seems to be only interested in making money. Their hunt tests for dogs are about as unrealistic as they get, and as far as breeding goes, they could care less what you breed so long as both dogs are registered. They don't check or require any documentation other than their registration.

I do not know about some of the other breed registration agencies but I would not count them out just because they are not AKC. In fact the GSP also has a German registered cousin who's breeding is just as stricktly controlled as the DD.
 
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I do agree that the hunt tests sponsored by the AKC, UKC and other registries are VERY unrealistic (portraying basically the worst case scenario a hunter and his dog could encounter and then some worse ones yet) but at the same time if you want to play the game you have to play in someone's arena. I choose to play in the AKC's arena.

I do despise the AKC's breeding policies - which really are non-existent. Basically if your dog is registered as a purebred and the other dog is also registered as a purebred of the same breed you can breed them. There are no required health clearances, no requirements for performance based qualifications etc. As long as they look like the breed they're registered as and can be bred the AKC will accept them and allow them to be bred for registered puppies. Frankly I think its BS and I do agree its a huge disservice to the dog world. Of course its not just the AKC. Look at "The Kennel Club" operating out of Great Britain - they endorse similar breeding policies however they strive for conformity in only looks - and look what that has done to many of the breeds they register.

I'm not of the mind that a dog HAS to be a purebred to do its job well however if I were purchasing a mutt I'd have to have assurances of the capabilities of its parents, grandparents and great grandparents... and these accomplishments MUST be documented and proven - verifiable. That said its extremely difficult to document and verify such accomplishments unless the dogs are registered with a kennel club of some sort - which means they have to be purebred. I HAVE trained mutts in the past and they HAVE turned out to be very good hunters. I've also owned mutts in the past that have turned out to be very good hunters. That said though my business is based almost entirely on purebred dogs that have a verifiable pedigree of success and excellence.

I do wish that the AKC's breeding policies would be similar to other clubs from say Germany and other countries however I believe that in adopting such policies they'd loose a lot of registries and as such loose a lot of revenue. That of course is not in the AKC's business plan and they won't allow it. If in this country there were a club or registration organization that also sponsored events in the area of my expertise and also tracked and verified accomplishments of individual registered dogs while also adopting more restrictive breeding practices so that the breed/species is actually helped more than it is hampered I would gladly hop aboard.

At the moment though there isn't any such body so I choose to play in the AKC's arena. Some choose the UKC others choose other smaller and less well known clubs but in the end everyone has to play in someone's arena.
 
Well since I breed, sell and train Labs I also am stuck with the AKC. I wish that they would seriously look at their standards and what they can do to improve them rather than what they can do to increase their bottom line. I especially wish they would re evaluate how they run their hunt tests. many times the way I have to train my dog for a hunt test is counter productive to real life hunting. Never in my life time or any one else that I have talked to have they had a hunting situation similar to what the AKC sets up for water foul dogs.

But my point is that I hope people don't pass up something just because its not AKC. There are other registration clubs out there that really are trying to improve what ever breed/s they are involved with.
 
Huh. Interesting. My breeder gave me AKC papers and showed me the momma & poppas papers and some of the poppas trophys and stuff. It's a good dog and has a good attitude.

He seems like he's already housebroken, he peed one time the first night and not since. He goes sniffing at the back door and its clear he wants out to go potty. He wont bark yet though. He chewed up my sunglasses but it was my fault for leaving them in reach of him. :(

He's still skittish but is a lot more comfortable today. He responds well and seems to know the word no. He does not like the leash though. He's never had one on. He wont even walk with it, he lays down and I'd have to drag him to go anywhere. How do I get him to walk on a leash?
 
When you get into higher end sporting dogs, breeders have to justify why they are charging so much for a pup or started dog. That's likely why the guy you bought from has an organized set up. I deal with it quite a bit. People see adds for $50.00-$300.00 labs in local want adds all the time and want to know why mine are at least twice as much. Most people understand the price difference once I explain to them What all we put into our breeding.

Plus like Hansam looks for,(as do many others) we provide a written guarantee. The thing about that though, is that even with all the precautions we take it does not guarantee that every puppy we sell will be the next field champion or be 100% healthy. It just means that they have better odds of doing really well and being healthier than the less expensive pup who was bred by Elmer and his cousin brother in their back yard.

Their are some good breeders breeding AKC dogs, I would like to think I am one since I put so much effort into what I breed. But Their are way more people breeding dogs who have no idea of what they are doing than there are of good breeders who breed for a reason. My reason for breeding the dogs we do may not be the best reason, but we do have a reason beyond money. We want to be able to supply the average family guy with a family pet that is truly a good retriever. You cant do that if you just shoot from the hip and skip the research. If the breeder cares about what he/she puts out, it will show in their facility and breeding practice as well as the pups and started dogs they sell.
 
How do I get him to walk on a leash?

Forgot to address this.

I personally do not take a new pup off a leash when I first get them. They are either on the leash or in their crate. The leash gives me a way of always having control over the dog and being able to give an instant correction. I give a sharp tug and a strong "NO" and pull the dog to me. As soon as it gets to me I give them lots of praise. Soon they learn that if they stay with me life is good. However for an upland game dog this may not be the best way to go.

One of the best training aids I have found is the bag of carry out treats at Wal-mart or about a $1.00 a bag. They are soft, easy to eat, and easy to break up into small pieces so that they last a long time. Small pups are easily bribed by such stuff.

I would put the leash on it and have some one give it a taste of the treat. Then back up a few inches and coax it forward with another small morsel of treat. Pretty soon ( a day to three) the pup should be happily going across the room with a leash on to get a bite.
 
How to get the pup to walk on a leash?

As grubbylabs said, keep the leash on the pup any time he's outside of his crate. Always keep the other end of the leash in your hand. Do this till he's fully house broken and also has the here/come and sit commands down pat. By then he'll have also learned to live with the leash and walk on it. If he starts to pull away while on the leash give a good sharp tug back and issue a stern, "No!". When I want to walk with him I snap my fingers, clap or make noise so he looks at me then issue the "here" command and wait for him to start coming to me. Then I start walking with him following. In time he learns that the leash is there but its not something he has to fight against. I know there are harsher techniques for leash training and older dogs that have never been leash trained may require them but a new puppy shouldn't need more than what I described.

Oh and some people use edible treats as a reward - I don't. Not saying its a bad thing to use food/treats as a reward but I don't do it myself. I find that physical petting and verbal praise is good enough to get the idea across. The problem that I find with treats is that dogs tend to want to do things to get the treats and even when you're done training they'll go pick up that leash so they can get a treat or start to beg for activity to get that treat. This leads to a whole other problem with dogs that most people believe is ok but really isn't... Anyway for me this sort of behavior isn't acceptable so I don't even give it a chance to start. I know that many trainers use treats though and there are those trainers that have great success with treats but there are many who don't use treats and still have great success without them too.
 
He sacked out now so I'll put the leash on him in the morning and leave it on him. That's a good idea since we're together all day anyway. He conquered the back steps today and now goes up and down them with ease. He's not ready for that long flight of basement steps yet though, perhaps tomorrow. I noticed when he goes on alert he lifts up his nose and his front paw. It's not a full point but I can tell he's got it in him and would train real easy.

He did say that if I have a problem with him that he would help or that I could bring him back for another one, I'm not sure if its in writing but (I know where he lives lol!)

I was impressed with his setup and as far as I could tell he had everything to indicate he is a professional and not just some bubba making money selling pups. He had many kennels and fenced areas and even a pigeon coop, he raises pigeons to train the dogs with. He seems totally legit. Even his pricing, base price for the dog was 800 bucks!

He will be exposed to gunfire at some point. Is there a prescribed way to do this other than just open up with the dog at ground zero? :D
 
My friend trained his horses for cowboy action shooting using a starter pistol at a distance, and a grain bag. Horses associated the noise with food or treats. Seemed to work pretty well.

Haven't tried it, yet, myself.

Of my three dogs, two of them are curious about gunfire, and one hides.

I'm not sure how much would ultimately be a matter of training, and how much would be a matter of personality, if I were to try to train them for hunting.
 
I generally introduce gun fire at a distance. Generally the dog will be inside a vehicle or tied a distance away. In both instances generally the dog naturally will want to be there beside you anyway. After a few shots the dog is allowed to come to where you were shooting. I will then throw a toy the dog is used to fetching(ball, frisbie, dummy). I get them fired up first so they are excited and shoot with the object in the air and the dog a ways away. First with a .22 and then later on with a shotgun. Most times if they are focused on the toy, they never even react to the gunshot. Shooting with them close by the first time without having them focused on something else is a good way to spook 'em. Once they are gunshy, it's a hard road back. Expose them to guns before hunting with them. Sometimes a dogs first experience with guns is their first experience with hunting. They've been hollered at to go find, they get bellered at to get back here, then this loud boom goes off and then they get bellered at to go find something they have no clue about. Then after all the scolding, they relate the gun shot to the negative experience. Get the dog into a pattern he knows and enjoys to introduce gunfire. That way he relates it to a positive experience.
 
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