Froglube fails miserably.....A word of caution.

AK103K said:
Eezox is a great product in regards to rust prevention. I use it as well on certain guns.

I started using it when I got my first Seecamp, as they recommended it as an all around CLP, which I dont think is true. It doesnt do very well in the cleaning department, and I always felt it was lacking in the lube department as well. I have yet to find anything better for rust prevention though.
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I use the eezox for alot of things. It will free a rusty bolt as good as PB Blaster. I use it everywhere on guns except stocks, however on slides-cylinders - bolts etc I use a very small amount of white lithium gun grease
 
Use plain ole' unmarked bottle military issue CLP on all my guns, works just fine. In the 'Stan I used Miltec 1, actually had 2 or three applications on my weapon in 29 Palms before we left. It worked great, didn't attract dust, and what dust the weapon did collect on the internals (it's unavoidable with Afghan moon dust) came off easily with an AP brush.
 
No special oil is needed....

Jug of two dollar motor oil will last forever....

Mix a little stp if you want thicker or red grease if you want grease....

Guns are overpriced hunks of metal and require no more special lube than equipment worth millions.

I know that frog lube is all natural, but most boutique lubes are probably recycled motor oils
 
Of course I would learn about this within a week of buying about $30 worth of the stuff and thinking to myself, "Wow, this ought to be enough to last me for a year or so."
 
Of course I would learn about this within a week of buying about $30 worth of the stuff and thinking to myself, "Wow, this ought to be enough to last me for a year or so."
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Maybe if you dont shoot much.

Did you buy the "kit", or just a large bottle of the liquid?

The liquid tends to go pretty quick, especially if you dont use the misting head on the bottle.

The paste can be used in the same capacity as the liquid, and you tend to use less of it that way, but the liquid has its place. I mostly use the paste in place of grease, so it usually outlasts the liquid 4 or 5 to 1.
 
The only time WD-40 "gums" up or turns to "varnish" is when it has already dissolved a bunch of crap and evaporates.

What is left is the same dirt that was there before, and is the mark of poor cleaning job.
 
what ever happend to the old addage "if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it"? i use light grease on my rails and weapon shield oil on everything else. i also use Eezox on blued guns i dont shoot a lot, fantastic rust inhibitor, decent lubricating properties. i still want to try frog lube but... it seems like the proper application process is a bit more involved than others, and it is significantly more expensive.
 
man, everybody is hitting on rem-oil. Granted I prefer weapon shield or eezox, but i used rem oil before i sound them and had no issues. Now i would NOT use rem oil for rifles, particurlarly DI AR's due to the high heat on the internals of the gun but for handguns I don't have any problem with it.
 
I've used Mobil 1 5W-30 and, sometimes, 10W-30 for years. Great lubricant. There is a difference in Mobil 1 or Amsoil fully synthetic and other "synthetic" motor oils.

The downside to the motor oils is that they may contain carcinogens so you should limit contact with the skin.
 
Agree on avoiding solutions that have carcinogens, that is primary reason I've finally settled in on Ballistol for CLP (biodegradable non-toxic) and Libriplate SFL-0 grease (food grade non-toxic).

Both are effective. In fact, after that last two range trips, I like the Lubriplate grease better than TW25b that it replaced. (stays put better, runs less, same constancy)

Both as edible as FL.

Both cost ~$1 per oz. too. But given they don't cost $10+ per oz. there must be something wrong with them right? :p
 
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Don't mean to be a buzzkill......but........


this product will expose you to lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause [cancer, and] birth defects or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling
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Well.... California cares... Lmao

used oil carries carcinogens, heavy metals, by products of combustion ect.... But any petroleum product carries hazards I say.

Lets all use olive oil, bet it smells divine... Baby seal fat has lost favor as of late.... :D
 
I've been using frog lube as recommended in the instructions, and never had a problem. Cleans up great and faster then ever before and i've never had an issue with gumming things up but then again I followed the instructions :D
 
Whatever you use, keep it out of the striker channel

Froglube works great if you keep it out of the striker channel. I have learned that's one place that should be dry. It will take some new miracle product to get me to change from Froglube.....if then.
 
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