Froglube fails miserably.....A word of caution.

I've seen mixed reviews of Froglube. I've got a small sampler of it, and have been tempted to try it. Now, not so much.
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Like anything else, if you use and apply it as its intended to be used, I doubt youll have any issues.

Ive used many of the other products available over the years, and most worked OK, "if" you followed the directions. I never remember any of them recommending that you slather it on and leave it that way. If youre using ANY of them, and applying their product like that, then youre doing it wrong.

As I said earlier, many dont bother to read the directions, and/or, think they know how to better apply them. None of my guns ever had enough lube on them that there was anything "showing" or "flowing" when it was applied. Ive shot next to people who had so much crap on their guns, that they actually sprayed crap on me with the first couple of rounds fired. Im sure others here have been there too.

As a plus, if you insist on doing the "slather" thing, FrogLubes smell at least wont readily give you away like the usual gun cleaners. Thats another sign youre using to much too, by the way. The smell of Hoppes in aisle 3, is a dead give away. :)

Sounds like it behaves a lot like WD-40 over time.
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Again, improper application, give poor results. Over the years, before better things arrived, I literally used gallons of WD-40 on my guns and other things, and never once had any of the problems Ive been told I should have had.
 
And there are always exceptions to everything, but the majority of folks have had issues with stickiness and gumming up the works.....sounds like this product might be doing the same.....if it works for you, great - it hasn't for many
 
AK103 - that was directed towards the WD-40, not the Frog Lube,

and in that regard, it is based on many folks having issues with gummed up actions and the varnish-like residue WD leaves
 
BigD,

As I said before, I used WD-40 on my guns for years, and never had any of those issues. Never knew it was a problem until the internet came along. Always made me wonder what I was doing wrong. :)
 
ClydeFrog said:
You should try those T&Es with a few other web favorites; IGG(Italian Gun Grease), Eezox, LPX, SEAL1, Gunzilla....

Id be interested to see how those well known CLPs stand up.

Im happy with Ballistol & LPX for now. ;)

Clyde
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I'm a loyal user of Eezox and have no plans of changing. Although I have heard good things about ballistol too. I've gotten used to the smell of Eezox, but if Ballistol works as good without the smell, I'd try it.
 
AK103 - for cleaning, I agree, it works as good as anything else, but I have seen a few friends who spray it on and leave it on have issues (these were Win Model 42 410s) that were sticking and had a serious varnish-like residues that hampered functionality - after a serious degreasing and cleaning, they were working like new again - only conclusion from that was the WD causing the issue. If that hasn't happened for you, that is great........
 
Eezox is a great product in regards to rust prevention. I use it as well on certain guns.

I started using it when I got my first Seecamp, as they recommended it as an all around CLP, which I dont think is true. It doesnt do very well in the cleaning department, and I always felt it was lacking in the lube department as well. I have yet to find anything better for rust prevention though.
 
but I have seen a few friends who spray it on and leave it on have issues
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I would guess so, and thats my point about using it improperly. All thats needed (and wanted), is a very light film.

The only time Ive used it on guns in the "spray on" capacity, was with gun parts coming out of the parkerizing rinse tanks. Sprayed on liberally, but wiped nearly dry for assembly.
 
In cold weather, like 20 F, I would remove all traces of oil and grease as I have seen mechanisms run sluggish in temperatures below freezing. It is my considered opinion that the Army’s phobia about over lubricating comes from the cultural memory of Korea. There in minus 40 F weather Garands/Carbines/Sub guns jammed when oil gummed up. Every Vietnam veteran I have met was told to run their firearms dry, be they M1911’s or M16’s. It took until the invasion of Iraq, nearly a half century later, to finally convince some in the Army that AR’s run better wet. At least in hot weather. In cold, I would remove all lube.
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That is not my experience. Having lived and worked carrying various semi auto pistols and AR's in the desert southwest ( El Paso, TX) and the northern plains (North Dakota) I have experienced the 100 + sandy environment and the -40 snow and ice environment. The enemy of firearm function in the cold is not oil, it is moisture, which then turns to ice. Non synthetic oils absorb moisture at a much higher rate than synthetics.

When I was in the Army I was taught to use a light coat of oil on M-16/M-60 and 1911 they all ran fine. I guess MP's are just smarter than grunts.
 
Aquila Blanca said:
If memory serves, I believe John Browning intended the M1911 to be lubricated with whale oil. Which, of course, is not available today.
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Actually, sperm oil (spermaceti) is still used by NASA to lubricate bearings in space. Almost any telescope launched is lubricated with sperm oil. However, I believe that you're correct that it is not offered to individual consumers. A few whales are killed each year for scientific research and to obtain oil for the space program, but we simple consumers are forced to use more pedestrian lubricants.

For my purposes, I've never found anything better than white lithium grease or ATF. Those two are about all I use as gun lubricants.
 
Lube

The solution to firearm lube is.... much maligned "RemOil" and "Sentry High Slip Grease" (Special Forces/Seal Team Approved) where grease is appropriate. Sentry will not thicken at minus 60f and lubes all the way up to approx. 700F. RemOil migrates well and lubes LONG after the appearance of oil is gone (the Teflon remains). I'm no scientist or lube expert. However, my experience is this combo will lube until the firearm melts. This combo will continue to lube in "storage" for many many months. The firearm will run as though you lubed it 12 minuets ago, when you actually lubed it 12 months ago. Both are easy to apply and not very expensive.
 
Again, improper application, give poor results. Over the years, before better things arrived, I literally used gallons of WD-40 on my guns and other things, and never once had any of the problems Ive been told I should have had.
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I'm glad for you but your experience with WD-40 has been entirely different than mine. I used the stuff religiously and "properly" for several decades until I began experiencing mysterious malfunctions with some firearms. A closer examination of the affected guns revealed a hard to remove, varnish-like residue left by WD-40 in parts of them that had seeped down (though I used the stuff sparingly, some of it invariably found its way "down" with the assistance of gravity) into their mechanisms and congealed over time. Especially affected were a couple of o/u shotguns. Removal of the WD-40 aftermath and using something else rectified the "problem". No more WD-40 for me.
 
If more gun owners/users would learn to apply most of the good quality oils & greases to their guns properly, meaning not excessively or insufficiently for the make/model, they'd probably be happier.

As an armorer I've had to correct more "gun problems" than I can remember that had actually been caused by an excessive - and usually repeated - application of some solvent, CLP or lubricant (oil or grease).

Insufficient lubrication runs second.

Read the labels.

As an armorer I've called and spoken with company reps in order to learn some details and discuss products, and in one case, I was transferred to the head chemist of a company, who obligingly spent some time on the phone answering my questions.

I've listened to the experiences of techs & engineers from some of the gun companies, as well as the experiences of other armorers during classes (and I've been to more than 20 classes, so I've met a few armorers now & again).

I've had, and still have, a number of products at my own bench. Things I've "always used", wanted to try, received as gifts, etc. Our various instructors & armorers are always looking at new products, comparing them against existing stock and the various conditions experienced by our folks.

Over the years I've come to prefer to look at minimizing unnecessary risk of exposure to hazardous chemicals.

There are a number of good quality products being offered for use on firearms.
 
Another vote for automatic transmission fluid.
A very high quality oil that holds up well to heat, pressure and friction.
It seems to be just fine for guns, too.
And it's inexpensive by comparison.
 
ATF

Another vote for automatic transmission fluid.
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I very much agree. I think the major issues new shooters have with it is that is does not cost enough compared to "gun" oils and it is too easy to get. If there is something better, I have not found it yet.
 
WD40, gun care....

My good friend who shoots often & reloads ammunition as a hobby uses WD40 for his firearms.
I don't see any harm in it if it works well for you but Id rather go with a well engineered CLP that's been shown to work effectively. Products like Weaponshield, Gunzilla, LPX, Slip2000, Hoppes Elite, Ballistol, etc.
I wouldn't use auto industry fluids or oils for firearms but that's just me.

There are multiple gun care products & websites out there. Some work better than others but most will clean/protect your firearms.

Clyde
 
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