First gun, for protection?

Modes of operation

divil said:
And just to confuse things a bit more, there are some automatics that are DA only and have no external hammer. So you manually pull back the slide to load the gun, then just holster it and carry it like that. No de-cocking necessary. But every shot will be DA, as opposed to just the first shot in the case of the ones I previously described.
And to confuse things EVEN more, some semi-auto guns with no external hammer have every shot single action.

To Concur with divil's point, I will expand the thought: There are only two modes of operation for 99% of modern revolvers (Double Action, Single action, and if you want a third, Double Action Only). For any semi-automatic pistol, you should verify its mode of operation before or at your first opportunity after picking it up. There are just that many.

Lost Sheep
 
I'm hearing you. I'll need to practice.

Although, if I can't carry, I'm not sure I need one anyway. I mostly feel unsafe on the street at night. That's where I feel like I need protection the most. =/ I don't know about home invasions, if I need to worry about that. I'll have to think about it.

EDIT: jimbob86 Faults or no, I'd never leave California. It's home.

Maxine, once you make your decision and buy what "feels right to you" (very important in my opinion), chances are it can beome your "nightstand firearm for home invasion" (referring to your above quote). Remember for CCW get something snug and something that won't hamper you in your everyday activities.
 
I'm unable to post as yet on the http://www.calguns.net forums, so please forgive my questions to the Golden State folk about California specific issues.

Where can I go to get a Personal Firearms Eligibility Check (PFEC) application filled out? I see it has to be notorized, and you need to leave a thumbprint. I've been thumbprinted in California before for my job, and I know that's not something they want you doing at home with an inkpad. Your print has to be legible, and that can be tricky. Where can I go for all this?

I see some place that 'California legal firearms' are listed as being "legal to sell" but I can't find any good info about if they're legal to own. I also see that every gun listed has an 'expiration date' when the legal status will lapse. If I get a handgun that lapses, will I have to get rid of it when the time's up, or can I still have it?

Thanks for bearing with me this far. :o
 
Forget the "eligibility" thing. Not sure what it is and you don't need it. Go to a gun store, pay them for your handgun and either that day or anytime during the ten day waiting period take a simple test at the gun store and get the "hangun card" which they issue on the spot and then pick up your handgun. At this point you just need to go to a couple three gun stores and look and ask questions. Here is link to Turners which has a link for all DOJ (California Approved Hand Guns) Also has links to California firearms sites. http://turners.com/ Here is link to DOJ list as well but I think it will just confuse you. http://certguns.doj.ca.gov/ The guns stores will only sell you California Approved handguns. Please go to a couple Gun stores and look and ask. Most sell pepper spray as well.
 
Wow.... they REALLY don't want you to have a gun in California.

Says something about them, does it not? Thay don't trust you ..... and such distrust should be mutual: work to vote them out.

------------

A simple way to remember the difference between single action (SA) and double action (DA), whether revolvers or semi-automatics:

With SA, pulling the trigger does one single thing: drops the hammer. The hammer must be pulled back either by you (as with a SA revolver- think cowboy guns, or a DA revolver my be cocked manually in the same manner) or the slide (as on a 1911). Most SA trigger pulls are light and short, requiring an external saftey to be engaged in order to be carried safely.

With DA, pulling the trigger does double duty, first cocking the hammer and then dropping it. The trigger pull is much longer and generally much heavier.

Then there are "striker fired" guns like the Glock or Springfield XD, which function much like a DA- pulling the trigger compresses the striker and then releases it....

Good luck, welcome to the shooting world, and stay safe!
 
I don't want to veer off subject but since you are willing to carry a larger canister, check into the kinds sold as Bear Repellant. Depending on the brand it can sometimes be a more potent blend of irritants and shoot a little further stream. ;) Not your fault you ran into a mugger instead of bear.
 
Taser X3, "best gun for you"...

To add/explain my last post, the Taser X3 model is designed to offer a "warning arc" and to handle multiple subjects. A medium size LE agency near me with about 200 sworn officers just issued X3s.
The X26c may work better for concealment & carry. If you use it for home protection you can add the small video camera unit, ;).
As for "the best gun", a smart choice would be a CA legal handgun that you can safely load fire and carry. Many pistols or revolvers may look good or "feel right" but as a new or entry level shooter, there are more factors to consider.
As I posted before a well made .357magnum or .38spl +P in a DA only format seems like the best choice. A Ruger LCR or SP101 revolver is a good start.
 
Legal rooster of approved handguns

I also see that every gun listed has an 'expiration date' when the legal status will lapse.

maxine, I think what you are referring to is the approved handgun list for California, and the expiration dates listed on the rooster.

To put is simply, each handgun sold in california as new has to be approved with certain requirements. Those guns get an approved status with an expiration date. That date only applies to the legality of selling them new. Once a gun expires, it is still legal to own and sell to another private party or back to a gun shop as long as all tranfers are done according to the law. When selling a gun that has been expired, or as they say, grandfathered in before the approved list or expiration date, they the sale must be face to face at a dealer for all the legal paperwork.

Since you stated you are only interested in purchasing new, you don't have to worry about anything, because whatever that shop sells (as long as it is a reputable shot) will be legal, or it is their business at risk. When the gun goes off the approved list, then they will no longer be able to sell that gun new, until it is re-submitted for approval again.

If the gun is on the approved list, and it must match exactly, then you can even purchase out of state and have the out of state dealer (as long as they are approved also) mail to your local dealer for legal transfer. It is getting harder and harder!

At least that is my limited understanding of the law.
Other may clarify further.
 
The Taser X3 looks *incredible*. Wow! Not sure how I'd carry it without a very heavy goat, as you say, but....

As for dogs... If I could have one in my apartment I so very much would, but nope. =p

EdInk: California limits the canister size you can carry, so......

I'm really frustrated with all the regulations. It's crazy. Some guns you're only allowed to buy in a certain finish but not another. That doesn't even make sense.

I'm a peaceable person, I don't even step on a bug if I can help it. And it's like there's a crazy maze to navigate just to get what I might need to protect me and mine. I'm not sure whether to give up or to be stubborn about it and press on.
 
I'm not sure whether to give up or to be stubborn about it and press on.

Don't give up!

The War of Independence was hard- should the nation have quit before it started?

WW2 was hard- should we have let Hitler run rampant?

The Civil Rights movement was difficult- should Dr. King have stayed home?

Most things in life worth doing are not easy, but that does not make them not worth doing.
 
3" J Frame

Get a 3" J frame Smith. Buy a set of grips that fit your hands.
Go to a range and get some basic firearms training.
Once happy with it, acquire the means to carry it comfortably

Call a Realtor and sell, a move some where you can still enjoy the rights of being an American.

I will leave the whole Californiction of the second amendment to the folks that understand it better.
 
jimbob86 said:
If you don't live in a location that allows you to be a self reliant, resonsible citizen, you can always vote with your feet!

You could, but if everybody did that, then there probably would be a lot fewer places we could all cram into by now.

jimbob86 said:
Or you can work to change your local government....

We're working on it here. It'll take a bit longer, but remember that concealed carry wasn't so common in the rest of the country not so long ago, and then of course there had been more federal restrictions, too. We simply had no other country to run to, and frankly I don't like running away from anti-gunners because if they're so successful in one place, then eventually they'll chase after you. Now that they're making a final stand in the few havens left for them, I'd rather eradicate them than run. Well, not literally eradicate them--you know what I mean! ;)

jimbob86 said:
Try to get a CCW permit- you might find that you can get one. If you are denied, then you have a political target come election time!

It may cost a substantial amount of money to merely apply, and it's not worth the risk unless you have a lot of discretionary income to play with. In CCW-unfriendly counties (it's generally done by county here, usually decided by the sheriff), you'll most likely need to show, using concrete, tangible evidence, that your need for personal protection is above that of the average civilian, otherwise they'll almost certainly reject your application, and they may not refund your application fee. I'd rather put the money toward things like a gun, ammo, and training first, and get the CCW after the stupid laws are done away with, which actually may not be all that long from now (knock on wooden stock).

Lost Sheep said:
In order of power, commonly carried cartridges are:

(Skipping the various 32 calibers)
380 Auto (also known as 9x17 or 9mm Corto or 9mm Kurz
9mm Makarov (also known as 9x18)
9mm Parabellum (also known as 9mm, 9x19, 9mm Luger, it is the world-wide standard military pistol cartridge)
38 Special (Sometimes called 38 S&W Special, but not to be confused with the less powerful 38 Smith & Wesson)
38 +P This is a 38 Special loaded to higher pressure than standard 38 Special, but far below the power level of .357 Magnum

9mm Parabellum is generally more powerful than .38 Special+P--certainly with factory loads that most people will be using.

Lost Sheep said:
40 Smith & Wesson (a fairly new Semi-Auto cartridge, VERY popular with police departments nowadays)
44 Special

With standard factory loads, reverse these two.

jimbob86 said:
On Tom Gresham's Gun Talk radio show today, he had a guy from the California Rifle and Pistol Association (www.crpa.org) saying they were making progress on CCW and self defense issues....

Every RKBA organization should be in attack mode right now after the US Supreme Court's decisions on the Heller and McDonald cases. In California, there is virtually no doubt that the only real progress (anytime soon) will be made in the courtroom--via striking down existing unconstitutional laws--rather than the legislature (although that's being worked on, too, through the upcoming election and in the long term). San Diego County couldn't even elect the right sheriff, choosing by far the worst candidate in every respect, not just regarding the CCW issue. :rolleyes:

Maxine said:
I'm going to be looking for a range where I can rent a gun, and try out a few different things.

Great idea, and hopefully it will answer a lot of questions that frankly we cannot answer for you.

Maxine said:
I still think I want something for home.

Don't completely give up on CCW, though, in choosing your gun. At the risk of sounding overly and uncharacteristically optimistic, I think that "Shall Issue" is coming to California and eventually everywhere else in the country before long. The case against San Diego County Sheriff Bill Gore's refusal to recognize personal defense as a valid reason ("good cause") for issuing CCW permits (the Peruta case) is rock-solid, and the presiding judge, Irma E. Gonzalez, seems to recognize that it is fundamentally incompatible with the Heller decision. With the McDonald decision now making the 2nd Amendment and the Heller interpretation of it apply at all levels of government, only a rabid anti-gun judge (like four of the US Supreme Court's justices :rolleyes: ) would not decide in our favor, and in my opinion that is hardly the case here.

Maxine said:
And you never know; I could end up enjoying a firing range, right?

Shooting guns is fun! :D

Maxine said:
I'm confused by a few things..... One thing I see a lot is 'single action' vs. 'double action'..... looking around that seems to be about pulling back the hammer with your thumb? Is that right? What're the advantages or disadvantages of either?

For defensive shooting, generally you'll be using a revolver in double-action mode, which means that all you have to do for each shot is pull the trigger (then release it for the next shot). The disadvantage is that such a trigger pull is necessarily fairly heavy, and while most people can handle it and still maintain good accuracy and speed with some practice, a few people struggle with being able to pull the trigger at all. In those cases, they may have to resort to the more accurate but slower single-action mode, where for each shot you have to cock the hammer back with your thumb first (virtually everybody who has a functional thumb could do that) and then pull the trigger, which will now be very light and short.

What you'll learn at the range is how well a revolver in double-action mode works for you. If it doesn't, then there are still some "old school" single-action-only revolvers that are better suited for that mode of firing (allowing rapid fire, among other things), albeit most are not the best for CCW unless you're on the large side physically.

By the way, there are also double-action-only revolvers that have no exposed hammer spur to cock (or get snagged on things), although most modern-style revolvers can be shot in either single- or double-action mode (per individual shot) at the shooter's option.

Maxine said:
It may just be an impression, but it seems automatics are cheaper than revolvers? Is this right?

It sure seems that way these days to me, too.

Maxine said:
What's the learning curve for gun maintanence like there?

If you're mechanically inclined at all (even minimally), then it shouldn't be an issue, as most autos are pretty easy to field strip (i.e. separate the major components). I think they're also a bit easier to clean because the barrel and other parts that need cleaning are easier to manipulate and access once disassembled, and there is only one chamber to clean.

Revolvers don't need to be field stripped and reassembled, which may seem like a big advantage for those who are intimidated by the process (and people do occasionally screw it up, which can bind their guns up good and tight :eek: ), but detailed cleaning is more crucial for proper functioning, and each chamber (or "charge hole" as they're sometimes still called) needs to be cleaned, which makes for more work.

Maxine said:
How often do you need to clean and look it over? (Heck, question's good for revolvers too....)

If you keep your revolver clean (like cleaning it after every range session, which you should do with a defensive gun), then you could completely ignore it for years and it should still work. Some tout this as an advantage of revolvers, but with a good service auto, I bet that you could do the same. With either you'll want to treat them for corrosion resistance, and occasionally check them for signs of rust. Some feel more comfortable when they unload and reload their auto's magazines every few months, but that shouldn't be necessary, in my opinion.

For guns that are used more frequently for practice, I'd say that revolvers, despite their well-deserved reputation for reliability, cannot withstand as much crud building up as the most reliable autos can (albeit some autos don't tolerate being dirty any better). This is not a real issue for defensive weapons because you should clean and lube them after every range session anyway.

Maxine said:
And again, for California residents (I may go to the California gun boards someone mentioned and asked this, but someone mentioned they're from California too) do you start by filling out your gun permit first, and where can you do that at?

I think that many if not most dealers can administer the Handgun Safety Certificate test and issue the certificate themselves, and you should be able to take the test and buy your first gun on the very same visit if you prefer, or you could do it ahead of time if you're ready. Of course, there will be a nominal fee charged, as with practically everything else. Read through the following guide to see what's involved:

http://ag.ca.gov/firearms/forms/pdf/hscsg.pdf

Maxine said:
EDIT: Oh, and everyone says that .22 calibur isn't good enough. Is this true?

Well, most everybody these days says that with handguns, shot placement (exactly where and what the bullet hits) is what really counts, and I consider penetration a close second because it makes shot placement count. According to industry-standard ballistics tests, .22 LR (short for .22 Long Rifle, which is what people usually mean by .22 caliber), with the right loads, can penetrate deeply enough to make your shots count in human targets, so in theory it is effective. However, the same group of people will often say that .22 LR isn't good enough because the bullets are small and do less damage than larger calibers, which makes them slower to stop people. Then again, the same people will claim that only precise (or lucky) shot placement (plus adequate penetration) can actually stop people quickly, and that the so-called "stopping power" (dropping people with hits almost anywhere on their bodies) of pistol calibers is a myth.

Yes, there are some contradictions here that have yet to be resolved to everybody's satisfaction, and that's because first of all it is difficult if not practically impossible to quantify caliber effectiveness, and that for most people it is moot because they'll just select a larger, more popular (for defense, not target shooting), more proven defensive caliber anyway. Even so, in my opinion .22 LR should be considered for personal defense by those (particularly beginners) who can currently shoot it faster and more accurately than larger calibers due to its light recoil, which helps shot placement, the most important factor in defensive shooting. Additionally, in a revolver it'll give you a higher shot capacity of 8-10 rounds (and there's even a 12-round single-action revolver now).

Unfortunately, there is no clear-cut, surefire way to choose between calibers. First go to the range and try .22 LR (in a revolver) and some larger calibers such as .38 Special for comparison. In my view, defensive shooting includes being able to shoot fast when necessary while keeping on target, and by fast I mean multiple shots in rapid succession. Sometimes just showing a bad guy your gun is enough to make him flee the scene, and sometimes a single shot gets the job done--in either case, a .22 LR revolver would be enough. But sometimes you have to keep shooting, possibly at more than one target, and that's where ease of shooting can help. If .22 LR makes you a better shooter, then despite being so small, it may be the best option. Use something bigger if you can because bigger is generally better on a per-round basis, but don't entirely discount .22 LR for defense as many people do.

Maxine said:
And if so, why do they even make them?

Because .22 LR is far cheaper than any other caliber (the ammo, not necessarily the guns), and is easy and fun to shoot. Plus some folks use it to shoot pests and varmints, although it can be lethal against humans (and many other largish creatures), as noted above.

jmortimer said:
The .22 Long Rifle performs best out of a rifle but is used in hand guns. The longer barrel allows more of the powder to burn and create more velocity and more energy.

While that is true, for some perspective certain hyper-velocity loads can attain similar velocities out of handguns that standard-velocity loads attain out of rifles. One such example is the CCI Velocitor, which has 40 grain (i.e. standard rather than reduced weight) bullets, no less. I'd definitely recommend this load for defensive purposes, if .22 LR works best for you, as it seems to penetrate adequately when used in a wide range of weapons, including handguns and rifles with barrels of varying lengths.

jmortimer said:
It is a rimfire and less reliable than a centerfire

That may be true of ultra-cheap bulk ammo, but premium .22 LR ammo such as the Velocitor has been very reliable in my experience. I'd only use .22 LR in a revolver, by the way, as in my opinion autos aren't reliable enough for defense with this specific caliber (partly because the cartridges are rimmed, unlike normal ammo for autos).

jmortimer said:
and lack sufficient power to reliably stop an assulant.

And sometimes multiple shots from far more powerful calibers can fail, too, if you didn't hit anything vital, while .22 LR can potentially kill with a single shot if you did. Like people keep repeating over and over (but evidently do not necessarily believe 100% ;)), the most important factor is shot placement.
 
As many have suggested, and rightly so, a 4” barreled 38 special should be just what you need. Smith and Wesson's are still considered, by many, to be the standard in revolvers, so Smiths carry a premium price tag though. If you are able to order on line a company named J&G sales that often offer used police trade in revolvers at what appears to be fair prices.
 
Get a S&W Jframe... you can get them pretty cheap.


The are also top of the line.

I would get a Model 36... BTW I have a Model 36
 
Maxine;

If you can handle the recoil, an S & W J Frame (mod 642) is great. My wife handles it well (she has the Crimson Trace Laser Grip) although she is petite and against my advice never practices. You can load it with straight 38 specials or +P's if you need extra stopping power. Safariland makes an excellent speedloader.

Right now, Florida Gun Exchange has them for $399 ($379 if you see them at the gun show) plus a $50 rebate from S&W. Ask for Laura...she has taken great care of me.

I hope you are happy with your final choice.
 
After reading your post and all the replies I would have to honestly tell you that our best bet would be to save your money and don't buy something as serious as a handgun if your not going to be comfortable carrying it let alone using it in maybe a life or death situation. I would advise you to learn how to be safe. Meaning, know your surroundings, don't put yourself in situations that could cause problems and be with other people when traveling. You say your not a gun enthusiast and it sounds like your not comfortable with them. Don't buy a gun unless that changes. Try sport shooting first to get comfortable. A women league is ideal. Be with others who may share your concerns.
 
EDIT: Oh, and everyone says that .22 calibur isn't good enough. Is this true? And if so, why do they even make them?

You should get the highest caliber you can handle. That means shooting the different calibers and seeing if the recoil is just too much for you to handle. I am very comfortable with a 9 mm. The size of the gun will play a part in what you choose. A smaller size gun will be harder to shoot in the same caliber than a larger size. I have a little .380 Taurus TCP. It's a nice gun but to shoot it a lot hurts my hand. That's because the gun is smaller in size and weight and has a heavier recoil that a larger size .380 gun. Sounds like a lot to learn but I will say this. If you are deadly accurate with a .22, your better off than me trying to shoot a .357 magnum. Too much gun for me. Good luck and be safe.
 
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