First gun, for protection?
- Thread starter Maxine
- Start date
WAIT one second.
The California CCW situation is about to change - bigtime. Keep an eye on the Sykes case in Sacramento and the other case in San Diego. Short form: the McDonald decision's full impact is about to hit. You need to follow what's going on at the calguns.org forum.
Second, it will take longer to overturn the 10rd magazine limit. That in turn means the FN 5.7 is out. It makes sense as a self defense piece with a 30rd mag. With a 10rd mag, it doesn't. Seriously. You'd be better off in every respect with a 5-shot 38Spl loaded with good ammo.
The California CCW situation is about to change - bigtime. Keep an eye on the Sykes case in Sacramento and the other case in San Diego. Short form: the McDonald decision's full impact is about to hit. You need to follow what's going on at the calguns.org forum.
Second, it will take longer to overturn the 10rd magazine limit. That in turn means the FN 5.7 is out. It makes sense as a self defense piece with a 30rd mag. With a 10rd mag, it doesn't. Seriously. You'd be better off in every respect with a 5-shot 38Spl loaded with good ammo.
Huh.
Well. Maybe what I'll do is get a taser or better pepperspray, go to a gun range, and just see how they feel in my hand, how it feels to fire, and take classes.
When I was a kid, I learned how to fire a simple rifle, I was pretty good at that, but I'm not deluded enough to think that firing low caliber rifle in prone position at a paper target is anything like firing a pistol in a self-defense capacity. If I think I can handle it, and if I still want it, and if I can commit to regular practice (Got THAT message loud and clear!) I'll think about what to buy then.
Well. Maybe what I'll do is get a taser or better pepperspray, go to a gun range, and just see how they feel in my hand, how it feels to fire, and take classes.
When I was a kid, I learned how to fire a simple rifle, I was pretty good at that, but I'm not deluded enough to think that firing low caliber rifle in prone position at a paper target is anything like firing a pistol in a self-defense capacity. If I think I can handle it, and if I still want it, and if I can commit to regular practice (Got THAT message loud and clear!) I'll think about what to buy then.
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Old Chipper
Inactive
Your head should be spinning by now. Lots of advice to look at. I taught my wife to use the S&W 357. but she uses 38 ammo. Later when she is ready she will use the 357 ammo. The last CCW class I attended told the city folks to use the snake loads for safety. Will stop an Intruder but will not go next door. Think of it as a 410 hand gun.
There's a choice that lies between a 4" barrel heavyish K-frame and a 2" barrel J-frame. 4" pistols are service arms; nice for the police, or even the nightstand, but not easily concealed nor particularly lightweight.
S&W made some model 36 and 37 J-frames with a 3" barrel. A very nice compromise, it seems to me. You get a 50% increase in sight radius, less blast effect and muzzle jump, more muzzle velocity, and all in a small, easily-concealed package.
While they're not common, they are around; I just got one of each off gunbroker, and, icing on the cake, they were old enough that I could use my C&R license to buy them.
S&W made some model 36 and 37 J-frames with a 3" barrel. A very nice compromise, it seems to me. You get a 50% increase in sight radius, less blast effect and muzzle jump, more muzzle velocity, and all in a small, easily-concealed package.
While they're not common, they are around; I just got one of each off gunbroker, and, icing on the cake, they were old enough that I could use my C&R license to buy them.
Lost Sheep
New member
Revolvers and safeties
Welcome to the forum and thanks for asking our advice.
In order to be as safe as a revolver, semi-automatic pistols need those safety devices, switches and levers.
This is a very broad generalization and I may be taken to task for saying it, but here is why:
A modern D.A. revolver, when stored or holstered has the hammer down and the firing pin NOT touching the primer (cartridge). The ONLY way to get the firing pin to touch the primer is to have the trigger all the way back (the machinery inside the gun is built that way and is fail-safe if nothing is broken). All springs are "at rest" and there is no spring energy to operate the gun. To pull back the hammer requires several pounds of pressure.
Semi-Automatic guns (and here is where it can get confusing, because there are several modes of operation,
Single Action, (e.g. Colt 1911)
Double Action/Single Action, (e.g. Beretta 92, CZ 75)
Double Action Only, (can't think of an example right now)
and the so-called "Safe Action" from Glock and now emulated by some other manufacturers
Also, some safeties will drop the hammer and some lock the hammer back.
A revolver's lack of a manual safety is not an indication that it is less safe. It is a confirmation that it is by its nature more safe).
Lost Sheep
Welcome to the forum and thanks for asking our advice.
Modern double action revolvers don't have manual safety levers, switches etc because they don't need them.Maxine said:
In order to be as safe as a revolver, semi-automatic pistols need those safety devices, switches and levers.
This is a very broad generalization and I may be taken to task for saying it, but here is why:
A modern D.A. revolver, when stored or holstered has the hammer down and the firing pin NOT touching the primer (cartridge). The ONLY way to get the firing pin to touch the primer is to have the trigger all the way back (the machinery inside the gun is built that way and is fail-safe if nothing is broken). All springs are "at rest" and there is no spring energy to operate the gun. To pull back the hammer requires several pounds of pressure.
Semi-Automatic guns (and here is where it can get confusing, because there are several modes of operation,
Single Action, (e.g. Colt 1911)
Double Action/Single Action, (e.g. Beretta 92, CZ 75)
Double Action Only, (can't think of an example right now)
and the so-called "Safe Action" from Glock and now emulated by some other manufacturers
Also, some safeties will drop the hammer and some lock the hammer back.
A revolver's lack of a manual safety is not an indication that it is less safe. It is a confirmation that it is by its nature more safe).
Lost Sheep
Lost Sheep
New member
Alternative Self-Defense items
Mace or pepper spray are inexpensive. The electronic shocking weapons are more expensive, but carry less legal liability than a firearm (both civil and criminal). In California, you will have to check your local laws about these self-defense tools, for they may be as heavily regulated as firearms.
A 40 to 50 lb dog of one of the protection breeds (think Shepherd, Chow-Chow or Boxer, not Labrador Retriever). I am NOT talking attack dog, either! I did a search for "Canine Protection Breeds" and imeciately came up with this article
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/361704/the_best_guard_dog_breeds_for_families.html?cat=53
or if the link does not work, paste this into your browser
associatedcontent.com/article/361704/the_best_guard_dog_breeds_for_families.html?cat=53
Dogs also provide an early-warning burglar alarm, are great company, provide good physical fitness opportunities, are decent psychiatrists and can even keep your feet warm at night (try THAT with a pistol!) Drawbacks, they are hard to carry concealed - but the upside is that they are self-propelled.
Does your apartment complex allow pets?
They also have a selective intimidation factor. They don't generally alarm non-threatening people, do do somewhat deter bad guys.
Lost Sheep
If you are physically capable, hands, feet and various small striking weapons are good (and cheap, except for the Judo/Karate/etc. classes). Added benefit, physical fitness. Drawback, proficiency is gained in months or years, not weeks.Maxine said:
Mace or pepper spray are inexpensive. The electronic shocking weapons are more expensive, but carry less legal liability than a firearm (both civil and criminal). In California, you will have to check your local laws about these self-defense tools, for they may be as heavily regulated as firearms.
A 40 to 50 lb dog of one of the protection breeds (think Shepherd, Chow-Chow or Boxer, not Labrador Retriever). I am NOT talking attack dog, either! I did a search for "Canine Protection Breeds" and imeciately came up with this article
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/361704/the_best_guard_dog_breeds_for_families.html?cat=53
or if the link does not work, paste this into your browser
associatedcontent.com/article/361704/the_best_guard_dog_breeds_for_families.html?cat=53
Dogs also provide an early-warning burglar alarm, are great company, provide good physical fitness opportunities, are decent psychiatrists and can even keep your feet warm at night (try THAT with a pistol!) Drawbacks, they are hard to carry concealed - but the upside is that they are self-propelled.
Does your apartment complex allow pets?
They also have a selective intimidation factor. They don't generally alarm non-threatening people, do do somewhat deter bad guys.
Lost Sheep
Lost Sheep
New member
For the apartment: Shotgun? And some thoughts about affordable practice
I always recommend a new gun owner buy two guns. A 22 rimfire and the main defensive weapon, both of the same action type and as identical as can be found.
22 ammunition costs about 1/10 the price of centerfire ammunition. Ten times the practice time for the same money? All you really lack is the recoil, and sometimes that is a good thing.
If you buy a 22 first, you get to the range and get to see and talk to other gun owners. Often they will let you shoot their guns. Where I am, there are no ranges that rent guns. But I often let other shooters try my .454 Casull, 44 Mag, 357 or Dan Wesson 22.
Handguns are very difficult to master. Easy enough to operate and operate well and accurately, but to be REALLY proficient takes a lot of practice and dedication. Upside, it can be a lot of fun to practice if you have the personality that enjoys shooting as a sport.
Long arms with a stock are MUCH easier to shoot accurately than handguns. And shotgun ammunition is fairly cheap. 12 Gauge shells in bird shot are practically dirt cheap, and at close range, as, or more, effective than a large handgun bullet. Recoil is much more manageable (because the weight of the shotgun absorbs a lot of energy). Many people recommend the 20 gauge for home defense, but 12 gauge is more common. I cannot fathom why no one suggests the 16 gauge, right between those two. If your action plan calls for a stationary defense, the shotgun is a candidate worth considering.
Shotguns are more controllable, more comfortable to shoot and less alarming to bureaucrats who decide what arms you can and cannot keep and bear. (sorry for the soapbox).
Lost Sheep
I always recommend a new gun owner buy two guns. A 22 rimfire and the main defensive weapon, both of the same action type and as identical as can be found.
22 ammunition costs about 1/10 the price of centerfire ammunition. Ten times the practice time for the same money? All you really lack is the recoil, and sometimes that is a good thing.
If you buy a 22 first, you get to the range and get to see and talk to other gun owners. Often they will let you shoot their guns. Where I am, there are no ranges that rent guns. But I often let other shooters try my .454 Casull, 44 Mag, 357 or Dan Wesson 22.
Handguns are very difficult to master. Easy enough to operate and operate well and accurately, but to be REALLY proficient takes a lot of practice and dedication. Upside, it can be a lot of fun to practice if you have the personality that enjoys shooting as a sport.
Long arms with a stock are MUCH easier to shoot accurately than handguns. And shotgun ammunition is fairly cheap. 12 Gauge shells in bird shot are practically dirt cheap, and at close range, as, or more, effective than a large handgun bullet. Recoil is much more manageable (because the weight of the shotgun absorbs a lot of energy). Many people recommend the 20 gauge for home defense, but 12 gauge is more common. I cannot fathom why no one suggests the 16 gauge, right between those two. If your action plan calls for a stationary defense, the shotgun is a candidate worth considering.
Shotguns are more controllable, more comfortable to shoot and less alarming to bureaucrats who decide what arms you can and cannot keep and bear. (sorry for the soapbox).
Lost Sheep
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Lost Sheep
New member
About calibers and power levels
I don't think anyone has mentioned that any revolver chambered for the .357 Magnum can also shoot 38 specials (but not the other way around). It is because the cartridge case for the magnum is slightly longer than the Special case.
In order of power, commonly carried cartridges are:
(Skipping the various 32 calibers)
380 Auto (also known as 9x17 or 9mm Corto or 9mm Kurz
9mm Makarov (also known as 9x18)
9mm Parabellum (also known as 9mm, 9x19, 9mm Luger, it is the world-wide standard military pistol cartridge)
38 Special (Sometimes called 38 S&W Special, but not to be confused with the less powerful 38 Smith & Wesson)
38 +P This is a 38 Special loaded to higher pressure than standard 38 Special, but far below the power level of .357 Magnum
40 Smith & Wesson (a fairly new Semi-Auto cartridge, VERY popular with police departments nowadays)
44 Special
45 ACP (also known as 45 Auto)
357 Magnum (also called .357 S&W Magnum, guns chambering this can also chamber and shoot 38 Special)
44 Magnum (also called .44 S&W Magnum, guns in this chambering can also chamber and shoot 44 Specials)
This list is not comprehensive, but just so you have a basis for comparing
It is worthwhile to note that the semi-automatic rounds of the 9mm class have diameters almost identical to the 38/357 revolver cartridges (.355" diameter bullets vs .357" in diameter) but the weights differ considerably mainly because the revolvers can have longer bullets (semi-auto 9mms range from 88 grains to 125 grains, but revolvers range from 110 grains to over 200 grains in weight)
I hope you find this information useful (and not something you knew already).
Lost Sheep
I don't think anyone has mentioned that any revolver chambered for the .357 Magnum can also shoot 38 specials (but not the other way around). It is because the cartridge case for the magnum is slightly longer than the Special case.
In order of power, commonly carried cartridges are:
(Skipping the various 32 calibers)
380 Auto (also known as 9x17 or 9mm Corto or 9mm Kurz
9mm Makarov (also known as 9x18)
9mm Parabellum (also known as 9mm, 9x19, 9mm Luger, it is the world-wide standard military pistol cartridge)
38 Special (Sometimes called 38 S&W Special, but not to be confused with the less powerful 38 Smith & Wesson)
38 +P This is a 38 Special loaded to higher pressure than standard 38 Special, but far below the power level of .357 Magnum
40 Smith & Wesson (a fairly new Semi-Auto cartridge, VERY popular with police departments nowadays)
44 Special
45 ACP (also known as 45 Auto)
357 Magnum (also called .357 S&W Magnum, guns chambering this can also chamber and shoot 38 Special)
44 Magnum (also called .44 S&W Magnum, guns in this chambering can also chamber and shoot 44 Specials)
This list is not comprehensive, but just so you have a basis for comparing
It is worthwhile to note that the semi-automatic rounds of the 9mm class have diameters almost identical to the 38/357 revolver cartridges (.355" diameter bullets vs .357" in diameter) but the weights differ considerably mainly because the revolvers can have longer bullets (semi-auto 9mms range from 88 grains to 125 grains, but revolvers range from 110 grains to over 200 grains in weight)
I hope you find this information useful (and not something you knew already).
Lost Sheep
I'd recommend a Ruger SP-101.
Ruger makes a very strong and reliable revolver and they cost less than a comparable Smith & Wesson. It holds 5 shots of either the very powerful .357 Magnum or the low-recoiling .38 Special.
With the snub-nosed 2.25 inch barrel, it's easy to carry and because of its modular, all-steel construction, it will last a lifetime, even with heavy use.
http://www.ruger.com/products/sp101/models.html
Even if you buy it used, it will still probably be extremely reliable.
They're that good.
Ruger makes a very strong and reliable revolver and they cost less than a comparable Smith & Wesson. It holds 5 shots of either the very powerful .357 Magnum or the low-recoiling .38 Special.
With the snub-nosed 2.25 inch barrel, it's easy to carry and because of its modular, all-steel construction, it will last a lifetime, even with heavy use.
http://www.ruger.com/products/sp101/models.html
Even if you buy it used, it will still probably be extremely reliable.
They're that good.
trigger happy
New member
I'd buy a brand new stainless Rossi .38 Special snubnose revolver
Maxine,
I did not recommend a revolver but I will now. The Ruger SP-101 in a 3 inch barrel is legal in California and is a fine revolver. Ruger makes excellent revolvers and are less than S&W. You can conceal a SP-101 and its a very strong revolver. I would recommend over any of the lightweight snubbie revolvers.
Howard
Short of a handgun I would carry Pepper Spray. We have a two ounce limit in California and I like this brand http://www.coldsteel.com/pepper-spray.html I hope the law changes here so we can get CCW permits but I'm not holding my breath.
re: California Gun Laws
On Tom Gresham's Gun Talk radio show today, he had a guy from the California Rifle and Pistol Association (www.crpa.org) saying they were making progress on CCW and self defense issues.... check them out, Maxine. There's lots of information on their site.
Calguns.net would be another place for resources on California laws. Hope you get involved in the fight to fix the screwy laws out that way. Good luck.
On Tom Gresham's Gun Talk radio show today, he had a guy from the California Rifle and Pistol Association (www.crpa.org) saying they were making progress on CCW and self defense issues.... check them out, Maxine. There's lots of information on their site.
Calguns.net would be another place for resources on California laws. Hope you get involved in the fight to fix the screwy laws out that way. Good luck.
Thank you all for answering my question!
I'm thinking for carrying on me, I'll get a pepper spray that's California Legal.... one that has a handle to it rather than just being a cylander. In a moment of duress, I want to make sure I'm aiming it in exactly the right direction, and a handle seems to be a good way for that. At the Mace site, they have something that's legal for my state, that you can load the spray into, and that even has a light to illuminate the stream to help make sure it's going where you want it to go. Although some of the tasers look cool, it seems to me that they have the drawback of being one shot only.... flub it and there's no correcting yourself, you've lost your defense. Anyway, that's my take.
I'm going to be looking for a range where I can rent a gun, and try out a few different things. I still think I want something for home. And you never know; I could end up enjoying a firing range, right?
Alas, I have to go as inexpensive as I can.... I'm one of those people with too much month at the end of my money, and even a $300 handgun would take a lot of saving and doing without for a long time. I'm convinced it could be worth it, but looking at some of the makers, they're entirely out of my price range for anything new, and I'm definately getting wary of buying used when I don't really know what to watch out for, so I'm inclined to buy new. The good news is that my apartment is pretty small (that's good news?) so it won't exactly be long distance use, if I ever need to protect me and mine, God forbid.
I'm confused by a few things..... One thing I see a lot is 'single action' vs. 'double action'..... looking around that seems to be about pulling back the hammer with your thumb? Is that right? What're the advantages or disadvantages of either?
What are things to look for or be wary of in a gun shop owner? Am I gonna be taken advantage of there (like someone buying a car but not knowing much about cars would be)? Are there any reliable online dealers that can be trusted.
It may just be an impression, but it seems automatics are cheaper than revolvers? Is this right? What's the learning curve for gun maintanence like there? How often do you need to clean and look it over? (Heck, question's good for revolvers too....)
And again, for California residents (I may go to the California gun boards someone mentioned and asked this, but someone mentioned they're from California too) do you start by filling out your gun permit first, and where can you do that at?
Thanks again, and thanks for being patient with my many questions.
EDIT: Oh, and everyone says that .22 calibur isn't good enough. Is this true? And if so, why do they even make them?
I'm thinking for carrying on me, I'll get a pepper spray that's California Legal.... one that has a handle to it rather than just being a cylander. In a moment of duress, I want to make sure I'm aiming it in exactly the right direction, and a handle seems to be a good way for that. At the Mace site, they have something that's legal for my state, that you can load the spray into, and that even has a light to illuminate the stream to help make sure it's going where you want it to go. Although some of the tasers look cool, it seems to me that they have the drawback of being one shot only.... flub it and there's no correcting yourself, you've lost your defense. Anyway, that's my take.
I'm going to be looking for a range where I can rent a gun, and try out a few different things. I still think I want something for home. And you never know; I could end up enjoying a firing range, right?
Alas, I have to go as inexpensive as I can.... I'm one of those people with too much month at the end of my money, and even a $300 handgun would take a lot of saving and doing without for a long time. I'm convinced it could be worth it, but looking at some of the makers, they're entirely out of my price range for anything new, and I'm definately getting wary of buying used when I don't really know what to watch out for, so I'm inclined to buy new. The good news is that my apartment is pretty small (that's good news?) so it won't exactly be long distance use, if I ever need to protect me and mine, God forbid.
I'm confused by a few things..... One thing I see a lot is 'single action' vs. 'double action'..... looking around that seems to be about pulling back the hammer with your thumb? Is that right? What're the advantages or disadvantages of either?
What are things to look for or be wary of in a gun shop owner? Am I gonna be taken advantage of there (like someone buying a car but not knowing much about cars would be)? Are there any reliable online dealers that can be trusted.
It may just be an impression, but it seems automatics are cheaper than revolvers? Is this right? What's the learning curve for gun maintanence like there? How often do you need to clean and look it over? (Heck, question's good for revolvers too....)
And again, for California residents (I may go to the California gun boards someone mentioned and asked this, but someone mentioned they're from California too) do you start by filling out your gun permit first, and where can you do that at?
Thanks again, and thanks for being patient with my many questions.
EDIT: Oh, and everyone says that .22 calibur isn't good enough. Is this true? And if so, why do they even make them?
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Go to a gun store and check out some guns. If possible, go to another and check out some guns. Ask some questions. Semi-autos and double action revolvers generally cost about the same for the same "quality." The .22 Long Rifle performs best out of a rifle but is used in hand guns. The longer barrel allows more of the powder to burn and create more velocity and more energy. It is a rimfire and less reliable than a centerfire and lack sufficient power to reliably stop an assulant. Google these terms and any of the other terms you need definitions for as it takes a while to get up to speed. You don't need a permit but have to take a test to get a "handgun card" prior to picking it up after the 10 day waiting period in Kalifornia. The hand gun card is merely a "permit" to buy a handgun - one of the many stupid laws we have here. It will take some time to get up to speed but we are all learning. Did I mention going to a couple gun stores? Compare prices and don't be in a hurry and ask questions - gun stores are not known for patience and kindness but find one that suits you.
You're on the right track. A double action trigger (DA) does 2 things - it pulls the hammer back and releases it, firing the gun with just one action from you, the shooter. The advantage off this is that you can carry the gun without the hammer cocked, which is very safe, but when you need to fire, all you have to do is pull the trigger. No safety to disengage, no cocking of the hammer. It keeps things simple. The disadvantage is that the trigger pull will take more effort than the single action (SA), and the trigger will have to move further - this affects your accuracy.
With a SA, the trigger only does one thing - releases the hammer to fire the gun. Something else has to cock the hammer. In the case of a SA revolver, that something would be you. With an automatic, the slide on the top cocks the hammer. The idea is, you pull back the slide manually when you load the gun. Then every time you fire, the slide will automatically move back, throwing out the empty shell, cocking the hammer, and loading a fresh round from the magazine. The advantage of SA is a very light, sensitive trigger, making it easy to shoot accurately.
Most modern revolvers are both SA and DA - you choose. If you want to use it in SA mode, you cock the hammer with your thumb. If you prefer DA, you can just pull the trigger and it will cock and fire the hammer, but you'll notice it's harder to pull the trigger that way. You'll get used to it though.
Many automatics are both SA and DA. The idea of this is, you pull back the slide manually, loading the gun and cocking the hammer. Then you de-cock the hammer, to make the gun safe to carry. Now, your first shot will be DA, because the trigger has to cock the hammer - but once you fire, the slide cocks the hammer for you on every subsequent shot, so subsequent shots will be SA (light trigger pull). When you're done shooting, de-cock the hammer and put the gun away.
And just to confuse things a bit more, there are some automatics that are DA only and have no external hammer. So you manually pull back the slide to load the gun, then just holster it and carry it like that. No de-cocking necessary. But every shot will be DA, as opposed to just the first shot in the case of the ones I previously described.
Edit: I should add that despite the extra effort involved with DA, just about anyone can learn to shoot a DA accurately enough for self defence, so don't be put off by that.
Taser model X3, DA only handguns...
I saw you looked into the light/OC spray type units, www.USCav.com has small gel type pepper sprays with white lights in the cap,
, the retail price is about $24.95. www.QMuniforms.com , a CA based company has a lot of great kit too.
As for the handgun terms; a DA only revolver or semi auto pistol would work well for your uses. A police trade-in or LE surplus would do best. They can be hard to find but I've owned 3 DA only law enforcement sidearms(new, unfired). 2 Beretta 96D .40S&W pistols and a Ruger GPNY .38spl revolver(a 4" barrel NYPD duty weapon).
DA only handguns are safe and unlike other models, you can avoid bogus or false claims of firing by accident or being reckless. The pistol or revolver would only fire because you pull the trigger & discharge the weapon. Most DA only handguns have a heavy trigger pull but that will add to the safety. "hair" or "light" trigger pulls are not a good choice for carry/protection weapons. Concealed carry & personal protection are not like target shooting or matches.
I go by the 3x3x3 Rule; the concept that most armed citizen or use of force incidents for CWP holders will involve 3 fired rounds, last approx 3 seconds and be at a range of 3 feet or less. Now, to be very clear, I'm NOT saying every critical incident or shooting will meet all or part of these conditions but under real world conditions, the 3x3x3 Rule is something to plan around or prepare for.
I saw you looked into the light/OC spray type units, www.USCav.com has small gel type pepper sprays with white lights in the cap,
, the retail price is about $24.95. www.QMuniforms.com , a CA based company has a lot of great kit too. As for the handgun terms; a DA only revolver or semi auto pistol would work well for your uses. A police trade-in or LE surplus would do best. They can be hard to find but I've owned 3 DA only law enforcement sidearms(new, unfired). 2 Beretta 96D .40S&W pistols and a Ruger GPNY .38spl revolver(a 4" barrel NYPD duty weapon).
DA only handguns are safe and unlike other models, you can avoid bogus or false claims of firing by accident or being reckless. The pistol or revolver would only fire because you pull the trigger & discharge the weapon. Most DA only handguns have a heavy trigger pull but that will add to the safety. "hair" or "light" trigger pulls are not a good choice for carry/protection weapons. Concealed carry & personal protection are not like target shooting or matches.
I go by the 3x3x3 Rule; the concept that most armed citizen or use of force incidents for CWP holders will involve 3 fired rounds, last approx 3 seconds and be at a range of 3 feet or less. Now, to be very clear, I'm NOT saying every critical incident or shooting will meet all or part of these conditions but under real world conditions, the 3x3x3 Rule is something to plan around or prepare for.
Lost Sheep
New member
What's a 22 good for?
Target practice
Practice
Mossad used (uses) them quite effectively for assassinations, I am told.
It's more effective than mace or pepper spray.
Excellent for pest control (rats, feral cats, etc.)
as I put in an earlier post, hey are 1/10 the cost per shot to shoot, making for more affordable practice, and practicing trigger control, sight acquisition, stance, breathing control etc is important.
While it is true that the 22 rimfire has FAR less than optimal power it still packs more stopping power at a distance of 20 feet than any punch.
A 22 is more concealable than most larger caliber guns, if you have a limitations in your concealment wardrobe.
Every dog has his day and every caliber and chambering has its purpose for which it is better suited than any other.
Lost Sheep
Maxine said:
Target practice
Practice
Mossad used (uses) them quite effectively for assassinations, I am told.
It's more effective than mace or pepper spray.
Excellent for pest control (rats, feral cats, etc.)
as I put in an earlier post, hey are 1/10 the cost per shot to shoot, making for more affordable practice, and practicing trigger control, sight acquisition, stance, breathing control etc is important.
While it is true that the 22 rimfire has FAR less than optimal power it still packs more stopping power at a distance of 20 feet than any punch.
A 22 is more concealable than most larger caliber guns, if you have a limitations in your concealment wardrobe.
Every dog has his day and every caliber and chambering has its purpose for which it is better suited than any other.
Lost Sheep