Ever have a revolver jam or lock up on you?

I bought a Rossi 877 .357 snub new in 1997. It is a polished stainless model. First range trip I fired two cylinders of .357 and on the second round of the third cylinder the gun locked up tight. I took it back to the gun shop and they shipped it back for repairs. I still have it and it has been fine with both .357 and .38s but will I not carry it. It was this experience that convinced me of the value of carrying a BUG. :rolleyes:
 
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I bought a NIB Taurus M85 that siezed up solid somewhere between its first 200 to 250 rounds fired. Total POS. My first and last Taurus.
 
Pietta 1851 Navy Colt jammed up from an expended percussion cap falling between the ratchet and recoil shield ring. This was my first cap 'n' ball gun. I learned to make sure the caps fit the cones and it's never happened again. RWS caps seem to be the least troublesome.

First SASS shoot, borrowed Ruger Baby Vaquero in .32 H&R Magnum jammed up, still not sure why. I handed it off to the timer and another shooter took it apart and got it working. I suspect it was a timing problem.

Couple times I've worked the hammer on new cap 'n' ball revolvers and the hand and ratchet bound up, but carefully setting the cylinder back in place and continuing to work the action seems to wear in the parts and make them smooth.
 
Yup. My (brand new) 686SSR. Turned out to be a bad trigger rebound spring. Smith fixed it free of charge and had it back to me within a week. It works splendidly, now, and it's my favorite gun, by far.
 
Yes, New Rossi 461, shooting .357 3rd or fourth shot. I still "Like" the gun, but I now mainly keep .38s in it, and it's a BUG, of a BUG.
 
Tight Cylinder Gap

I have an S&W Model 60 that locks up after about 30 rounds of factory ammo due to a tight barrel/cylinder gap. Rub the cylinder face down with a brush and solvent and it's fine again.

Folks say to send it back to Smith, but I keep it completely clean when I use it (rarely) for a carry gun. There is no conceivable SD situation where I would be able to reload four times. However, I figure a tighter cylinder gap means more velocity for the bullet, so it stays like it is.
 
I've had three causes of malfunction from revolvers:
- Ejector rod backed out
- Powder granules under extractor star
- High primers from my (early) reloads
 
Yes, a Taurus M-85 Titanium snub. tightened up after a couple of shots somertimes, sometimes not. someone elso owns it now.

Roger
 
You know, I just saw someone mention SP101 somewhere, and I now remember, I could not rapid fire DA with it without it sometimes malfunctioning from that. I never had a Smith do what it did. It was an earlier one but I read of someone else doing a gun test and getting the same effect of the thing stopping rotation or whatever it did, when fairly rapidly DA firing as you might in an emergency. Therefore I parted with it. Have no idea if the larger frame models can do that. Smiths work for me great if I do fast DA just like the demo or competition shooters did. OK I should say it is SMiths that I have full faith in.
 
madmag said:
Yes, hard even for me to believe, but my GP100 locked up due to the cylinder latch spring ball (plunger) tip coming off. It fell into the works. Easy to fix, just ordered a new plunger part from Ruger. I was willing to pay but Ruger shipped it free...no charge.

A GP100 failing..now that's something to write about!:D
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Unfortunately I, too, can write about that. It wasn't my GP100, but an acquaintance's. The pawl would push on the ratchet/star in such a way it could sometimes make the trigger pull extremely heavy or simply immobile. I'm not sure if he tried to fix it himself or simply sent it to Ruger for repairs.

Although Ruger isn't my favorite company for a few reasons (some political), I hear they're good about standing behind their products. They deserve credit for that.
 
S&W 686+ ejector rod backed out after MANY .357 mags. Opened up the gap, too. Took to the gunsmith. Smith tightened and has not come loose since - probably loctite. Have a Ruger 161 now for full bore loads with 296 and Blue Dot. S&W now shooting lead .38's. Gap is still open but I can live with it.
 
I had a S&W 19 lock up when some Blazer ammo was splitting the aluminum cases. It would back up,expand and lock up the cylinder. :( I had to tap the cases back in from behind,open the cylinder,and tap them back out. Problem solved by not shooting any more .357 magnum Blazer.
 
I've had some trouble with an old cheapo German single action .22 before. Sometimes it's in time, and sometimes it's out. It's also locked up a few times.
 
Sure have.
I have had S&W and Colts lock up on me.
But, I have yet to have a Ruger lock-up on me.
That's why I sold all my S&W and Colts and bought Rugers. :)
 
Yes, I've had it happen several times over the years. It has happened with a 686 and with a 629. Each time the guns were completely disabled and could only be returned to service by disassembly and being cleaned.
 
Ruger Super Black Hawk .44, shooting super light .44 Special target reloads, about the 10th or 15th time I'd loaded the old cartridges. I found out after the fact that if you reload more than a few times primers start to get a bit loose. One of the primers jammed back and stopped the whole shebang from banging. :o
 
1996.....SW 13. bought it new and it locked up on the 5th shot. brought it back to the dealer and he noticed that the ejector rod had a slight bow in it. was sent back to the Dist and he replaced it. shot great after that.

that's why any new pistol needs to have some rounds put down range before trusting it for SD.
 
AK103K said: You always dump the empties "muzzle up", otherwise, your asking for troubles.

How come? I'm not familiar with this.
 
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