Ever have a revolver jam or lock up on you?

OK, I have read through the entire resurrected thread, and a pattern is evident.

Well over half the "revolver failures" reported are not "revolver" failures, but ammunition failures, and most of them would have stopped an auto pistol, as well.

Of the remainder, about half of them are not what I consider "revolver" failures, they are user failures. Failures of not performing proper maint, or failure to use the gun in the correct manner.

Revolver maint is differnt from auto pistol maint. There are many of the same things in common, but something auto pistol (only) users don't know or seldom realize is that the screws on revolvers need to be checked for tightness, and checked often. ALL THE SCREWS need to properly tightened (and you also need to know what is the proper tightness, for certain screws).

On S&Ws with the strain screw, you need to know what is "right" (and bottomed out tight, isn't!) Sideplate screws need to be checked (before use). Sight screws need to be checked (not the adjustment ones, the other(s). Grip frame screws on single actions need to be checked, as well. Its just something you should do, prior to placing the gun in service.

98-99% of the time, you won't find any loose screws, BUT, the time you do, you keep trouble from happening.

The ejector rod backing out on S&W is a long understood problem, and one that is easily prevented with a single drop of the right loctite. Use the wrong loctite product (they have many) and you make trouble if you ever need to disassemble the pieces. I use Guntite, a loctite specially made for guns. Never had any trouble with it.

Recoil eventually loosens the screws of revolvers. Understand that, and live with it, its the nature of the beast. Just like auto pistol recoil springs wear out, eventually. Recoil doesn't loosen ALL the screws, every time, just some of them, some of the time. You may go years shooting hundreds or maybe thousands of rounds (depending on the gun & loads used) and never find a single loose screw. Then you may pick it up after your last range session and find one, or more slightly loose. It happens, and its an easy fix. Why do you think S&W puts a screwdriver in the box, anyway? Its not JUST for the sights!
 
I should mention the transfer bar of my Dan Wesson M-12 broke, the gunsmith I bought it from sent it back to the factory and it has been fine ever since.
 
Yes, two Taurus revolvers. One was a 650 CIA that would bind when it heated up because the barrel cylinder gap was too tight. The second was a Taurus 905IB that would lock up sporadically for no apparent reason. Taurus was unable to fix the problem.
 
I was thrown from my horse and landed on my S&W Model 29. Bent the crane and therefore rendered the gun inoperable.

Of course the top of my thigh bone broke off at the hip socket. I was in worse shape than the gun.

If you think any gun is going to be 100%. You will be disappointed. Plan (and practice) for the worse, hope for the best.
 
I've been having trouble lately with my S&W 65, but I think it's gonna turn out to be an ammo issue.
When firing certain factory .357 loads, the cylinder locks up. I haven't been able to verify this yet, but I believe the primers are "flowing" into the firing-pin hole. So far I've been able to get it rolling again by hand-turning the cylinder while forcing the hammer back--probably not the wisest course of acton I know. S&W issued a recall for this same issue, but my model isn't on the list.
I also had an occasional timing issue with a snub-nosed Taurus .357. I got rid of it because of that.
But if this has become a revolver vs. auto battle, let me be clear: When lives are at stake, there's no debate. When reliability is essential my choice is clear...I'll take the. 357 with an occasional timing issue over ANY auto. The jam prone model 65? ...maybe not.
 
No, but I had a semi auto lock up on me. Taurus 908 9mm, the ejector sheered off and got caught in the slide rail. Froze it up so solid the slide may as well have been welded to the frame.

I did have binding issues with a Taurus 94 (gawd, what a pile). It never did jam/lock up completely because it could be operated in SA.

---

So my worst semi auto and my worst revolver experience both occurred with Tauris. Some of you may conclude that I don't like Taurus, but on the contrary I have a lovely 3" Model 431 .44 Special on my hip as I type this. And I recall a slick 6" Taurus 66 that I stupidly sold 6 years ago.
 
Last edited:
I have had two revolver problems that finally I ended selling both revolver.

First problem: Taurus 627 tracker. After firing rounds, I had to use pliers and a screwdriver to get the shell casings out. My gunsmith looked at the revolver and said to me "worse machining I have ever seen on cylinder bores". He sent the revolver back to Taurus. Six weeks later the revolver came back and still had the problem. Traded the Taurus and cash for a S&W model 28.
Second problem: Bought a slightly used Ruger GP100 Stainless about two years ago. From the start the revolver would hangup and lockup firing live rounds. Dry firing with snap caps I did not experience the problem. I tried everything I can think of to cure the problem including having my gunsmith go through the revolver and smoothing the action. It was better but still experienced the same issue after firing say 18 rounds. I finally sold the revolver on consignment at a local gun store. I did disclose the problem. I could never trust the GP100 as a home defense revolver.
Regards,
Howard
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top