CZ 75

RE: The Single Action ONLY versions.

There are some important differences.

The internal mechanisms are the same -- but the disconnector is missing on the SA version.

The BIG difference between the DA/SA an SA only 75Bs, is that the SA version can use the two-way adjustable trigger, which is straighter, and can be adjusted for both take-up and overtravel. That greatly reduces the trigger pull length!! If you get it tuned, that gives you the potential of a 1911-like trigger, if its done right.

Both the 9mm and .40 SA versions have a slightly different frame, with 1) a longer, up-curved beavertail, and 2) ambi safety levers, Those levers are easier to use because they are bigger.

The SA slide is slightly different: with a full-length guide rod in the .40 version (which requires an open front-end on the slide). Another slide difference is that both have full-length rails ( which seem to be mostly decorative: as the rail is lower near the front than at the rear of the slide, and it can't do much functionally.) Then, too, the bullet is out of the barrel before the slide has moved far at all -- about a 1/10th of an inch or so -- and CZ's lockup design focuses on the rear of the barrel around the chamber; I don't know how the longer rails can do much.

Some of the 75B SAs seem to have slightly better triggers out of the box, but not all of them. (They should be the same, but they aren't always.)

I had a used 75B SA that had been tuned up by a gunsmith before I got it, and it felt as though the slide was running on ball bearings. It still had the firing pin block in place, but it was NOT noticeable.

Many of the folks who go the SA route, removing the firing pin block, but that requires some adjustments, and I'm not sure they all do it right.

Great guns, if you like SA, but the standard DA/SA can be tuned to be just as crisp. But, because the standard DA/SA doesn't have ambi-safeties, you can't use the larger safety levers unless you get the stainless models, which have a similar frame (with extended beavertail) and ambi-safeties.

If you're seriouis about a SA 75B, check out the CZ Custom Shop and look at some of their TUNED guns, and buy directly from them. They'll ship to an FFL in your area. Also check out Cajun Gun Works for parts and tuning, too, if you decide NOT to go with the Custom Shop.
 
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Walt,

because the standard DA/SA doesn't have ambi-safeties, you can't use the larger safety levers unless you get the stainless models, which have a similar frame (with extended beavertail) and ambi-safeties.
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It's my understanding that the extended safety --

http://czcustom.com/index.aspx/ImageGallery/Index?productId=2097 --

can be used on a regular 75 B. The post that extends through the frame to which the right side extended safety lever attaches just has to be bobbed so it doesn't protrude. I have yet to see a photo of one modified this way, but it can supposedly be done.
 
Limnophile said:
It's my understanding that the extended safety...can be used on a regular 75 B. The post that extends through the frame to which the right side extended safety lever attaches just has to be bobbed so it doesn't protrude.
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I had not wandered through the Custom Shop listings in a while, and that was added since my last excursion. That's good to know.

Kind of pricey if you screw it up, though.

I had thought about replacing the ambi-controls on my 85 Combat until I saw the price tag.
 
Let's talk trigger tuning....is it as easy as a new hammer, sear and short reset kit from Cajun or will I need to do some work? I'm wanting 3-5 lbs and pretty crisp. Most stock quality 1911's are good enough for me...
 
Let's talk trigger tuning....is it as easy as a new hammer, sear and short reset kit from Cajun or will I need to do some work? I'm wanting 3-5 lbs and pretty crisp. Most stock quality 1911's are good enough for me...
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Using CGW drop in parts I was able to achieve a 3.0 lb. SA on a CZ P-01 that was quite good in terms of break, though the reset isn't in 1911 territory.
 
I have a Pre-B and B 75 SA and they're both awesome guns. Ergos, reliability, and accuracy are as good as any production gun made. What's not to like :D
 
TunnelRat said:
Using CGW drop in parts I was able to achieve a 3.0 lb. SA on a CZ P-01 that was quite good in terms of break, though the reset isn't in 1911 territory.
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It's the nature of the trigger design. If you kept the DA function in place -- not clear from your comments above --a longer reset is necessary. The new kits that shorten trigger pull and reset (from the CZ Custom Shop and CGW ) might improve it a good bit, though. I don't know of any DA/SA gun that will have a reset similar to a 1911 -- but a 1911 can't do DA, either. :)

A CZ 75B SA with the two-way adjustable trigger - and good tuning (and maybe with the firing pin block removed and timing tweaked ) -- can have a very good trigger with a very short reset.
 
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It's the nature of the trigger design. If you kept the DA function in place -- not clear from your comments above --a longer reset is necessary. The new kits that shorten trigger pull and reset (from the CZ Custom Shop and CGW ) might improve it a good bit, though. I don't know of any DA/SA gun that will have a reset similar to a 1911 -- but a 1911 can't do DA, either.

A CZ 75B SA with the two-way adjustable trigger - and good tuning (and maybe with the firing pin block removed and timing tweaked ) -- can have a very good trigger with a very short reset.
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Yea I know with the DA function in place it's not possible, I just wanted to address his comment about a stock 1911. Of course he is going the SA model so he won't have that problem. I'm really tempted to pick up a SA model and play around with it. I have no philosophical gripe against safety models, I just have stubby thumbs that make getting to the safety not always that easy. :(
 
TunnelRat said:
I just have stubby thumbs that make getting to the safety not always that easy.
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It IS a problem.

I've had a SA and loved the larger safety levers.

Recently, the right-side release on my 85 Combat went walkabout -- never found it (or figured out why it came loose) and seriously considered installing the SA levers, which are compatible with that model. Just replacing the stock 85b/combat safety lever was $35 plus shipping, and the idea of spending $150+ for the better levers just didn't add up for me. I love my 85 Combat, but don't shoot it that much anymore -- too many other, newer guns (including aSphinx SDP, two FNS-40s (one a 40L), and a Springfield XDm Competition in .45...

The safety levers on the P-07 and P-09 are even less friendly for some folks.
 
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For a 75B SA model upgrades to improve the trigger I would suggest CGW Race or CZC Comp hammer and CGW SRS-2 kit and using the 11.5# hammer spring. The CGW sear isn't completely necessary. The stock CZ sear is just fine after a good polish, but the ear will have to be filed some for the safety to work correctly. The CGW sear has a set screw for getting the safety to engage correctly. I would also suggest polishing up the internals. Adding a CGW floating trigger pin, reduced power return spring and a lower weight recoil spring as well. These mods would most likely put the SA trigger pull in the 3-4# range while still keeping the FPB. If you ditched the FPB the reset could be even shorter.

And, on a side note a CZ keeping DA functionality will never have a super short reset with drop in parts. The only way to get a short reset is with an oversize disconnector that requires hand fitting. I have two FPB equipped CZ's where I hand fitted a CGW disco and they both have incredibly short resets while still keeping the functional FPB. But, my shortest most awesomest trigger is on a pre-B I converted to SAO. The others I consider approaching a 1911 trigger. The Sao pre-B is better than any 1911 I've shot.
 
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^^^^^^^That may be because the Pre-B lacks a firing pin block. I have a pristine 1991 Pre-B that I will keep totally stock, but I may get a surplus one to do an SA conversion.
 
Pilot said:
That may be because the Pre-B lacks a firing pin block.
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The firing pin block certainly adds something to the mix, but when polished and with lighter springs, it can be almost unnoticeable. It's still there, however, and still a physical drag. When the FPB is removed, other adjustments (some of which I don't fully understand, never having done it) must be made, too -- but David Milam at Cajun Gun Works has discussed it on this forum.

I think somewhere along the line, CZ may have changed the hammer/sear geometry a little -- which led to the "camming" (i.e., the hammer moving back a bit before releasing in SA mode). The "camming" has seemed to become more pronounced over the years -- but that could be my imagination. You never heard anyone commenting about camming with the first B models; it's something almost everyone complains about, nowadays. It seems to be mentioned less often with the SAO models, but that doesn't really make sense, however, as the hammer/sear parts should be the same.

Some of the guns bought retail from the CZ Custom Shop come already "tuned," and that may account for some lack of complaints. It may also just be that some folks pay more attention to THAT trait of the newer 75B guns.

(It was only after a couple of years of CZ ownership and a new interest in "tuning" my guns, that I even noticed/paid attention to the movement of the hammer when firing in SA mode.)
 
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tallball, agreed. I have owned 4 Tanfoglio CZ-75s over the years (3 9s and 1 .40). Tanfoglio makes a great gun. I still have a Government model in 9. They were all steel frame, felt great in the hand and shot great. Still sorry I let the .40 go...
:(
 
Nathan said:
Just throwing it out there....Am I better off looking at a CZ P09 Duty?
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There is no right answer to that question. The P-09 (just P-09 - the 'Duty' model is the old, Gen 1 version) is a great pistol in its own right, but has a different feel from the original 75B.

Pros: lighter, higher capacity, less expensive, better trigger out of the box, can be converted from safety to decocker
Cons: Thicker slide, expensive mags, limited mag compatibility with the rest of the CZ lineup
 
In addition to the above I will add if you plan to tune up a P-09/07 it won't be as good as a tuned 75B IMHO. I own a P-09 with a bunch of CGW parts and it is a great especially for the price. But, all tuned up the trigger isn't as light or crisp as my tuned up 75B models. There is also a lot of pre travel take up in SA and a longer reset as well.

Even with all of that said I still plan to eventually get a P-07 in the future. My P-09 with the CGW parts came out to about the same price I paid new for my SP-01.
 
BigMatt said:
(re the P-09 vs. the 75B) There is also a lot of pre travel take up in SA and a longer reset as well.
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You must have a very nice 75B if you've really reduced the pre-travel and take-up in a DA/SA model.

As I understand it, the extra trigger pull and reset length is needed for a DA/SA model, if you choose to retain the DA function. The kits offered by the Custom Shop and CGW can shorten both, but they're both still there and a bit longer than some other guns even after the kits are installed.

SAO versions of the 75B can be made be as nice as some of the nicer 1911s -- thanks to the two-way adjustable trigger which lets you reduce over-travel and take-up. That trigger 2-way trigger, however, won't work in a DA/SA model.

I haven't encountered a SAO P-07 or P-09, yet, or heard about anyone doing the conversion. I'm sure there'll be parts for that, if they don't already exist.
 
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I have the CZ 75 SA and it is an excellent gun. It's quickly becoming one of my favorite range guns for sure. I love the flat trigger and it handles just like a 1911. I usually shoot it side by side with my Citadel 1911 9mm and the ergonomics feel just as good in hand. I did add the VZ grips, which are much thinner and look/feel amazing! The only snag I have had with it is figuring out the reloads. With CZs, the chamber is slightly shorter I believe. So you have to make the c.o.a.l a little shorter so the bullet doesn't hit the grooves. Not a problem if you don't reload, as I have never had issues with factory stuff.

Also, I have the P-07. I really enjoy the Omega trigger with the nice clean break. Just has a little too long a reset as others mentioned, not a deal breaker for me.
 
My comparisons of my own tuned 75B models vs a tuned P-09 are with similar parts upgrades in each. The 75B models (SP-01 and a P-01) both have the SRS-2 kits and a CGW disconnector. The P-09 has the CGW short reset kit that includes a new disconnector. The SRS kits along with the "drop in" type 2 disconnector really shortened the reset and reduced some of the pre travel take up in SA.

Eventually I went a step further on the SP-01 and installed a Type 1 which had to be fitted and it yielded the shortest possible reset while keeping DA and the FPB functional. If there were some over size parts that required fitting available for the P series omega trigger I would buy them in a heart beat. I have the most rounds through my SP-01 as it is my competition gun. When shooting the P-09 fast I often mess up and don't let the trigger out enough to reset properly. That is because I am so use to shooting my other CZ's that have a shorter reset.
 
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