Cost:Benefit Looking at Reloading

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Depending on the equipment you purchase you will not see any savings for 3,000 + rounds IMHO. I started reloading recently. I load only handgun for now and my break even point on 45, 9mm and 38sp is 3500 rounds give or take depending on caliber. At that point the equipment cost will have been covered by the cost per round savings by reloading. I bought a Lee turret press with 3 sets of dies, turrets, powder measurers, tumbler, etc...

You have to remember you will also have to buy components locally or buy in bulk to save on the hazmat fees. In the short term you will pay a lot more for your ammo but the longer you reload the more you hypothetically will save but as others have pointed out most people don't really save $$$ reloading.

They simply shoot more. They buy more equipment. They buy more components and spend lots of time to build specialized loads etc... Almost no one ever accounts for the time they put into reloading. Time that could be spent making $$ or doing other activities.

One thing you do not mention is how much do you currently shoot and how much do you want to shoot once you are reloading. IMHO if you are not shooting 500-1,000 rounds a month just buy ammo when it is on sale in bulk.
 
I haven't saved any money hand loading.

I have had a great time, learned a lot, and crafted ammunition I am proud of that is as accurate as I can make it.

In an effort to save money on bullets I shot commercially cast bullets for awhile. Got lead fouling issues, which I incorrectly attributed to the nature of cast bullets.

I bought a casting setup. I'm pretty sure I'm ahead of the cost curve by now, but more importantly I get stellar accuracy and no barrel leading. I remember shooting my cast bullets through a 7BR at IHMSA matches for nearly nothing and shooting some of my best scores. It is a source of pride.
 
Yes, redo the math carefully. For 9mm, using FMJ or plated, you should be in the 14-18 cent range. I don't reload .223, but for most rifle rounds you should be able to reload for at least half the cost of factory. Currently, you will save money round for round when you reload, but you will probably spend more in the long run because of the amount you will shoot will probably be more. You will also need to factor in your time and what it is worth to you vs buying new.
Example: I can reload 9mm, 38 special, and 357 magnum for about the same price (357 Mag. is a few cents more due to powder increase). 9mm, right now, can be had for @ $10/100, 38 Spl. @ $18/100 and .357 Mag. @ $25/100. So obviously I save more over factory prices by reloading the .357 Mag than 9mm though components are all the same price (assuming you are using your own brass). My point is, what you reload will dictate how much you will save over off the shelf prices.
I don't cast, but I know you can save even more by doing that, especially if you can get the lead free.

Having said that, I would probably reload even if it cost a bit more than factory because I get so much enjoyment from creating my own. If it is something you won't enjoy, don't do it. That is a recipe for frustration, mistakes and ultimately disaster.

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For anyone suggesting you won't save money reloading 9mm, I highly disagree. The best I have been able to find on factory loaded 9mm lately (and this is as good or better than pre-panic prices) is around $10 per box of 50. Final cost after adding shipping and/or taxes is closer to $12.50 per 50. I can reload 9mm for $6.65 per 50. So I am reloading for nearly half what it would cost me to buy factory loaded.

I buy much of my supplies in bulk (8# of powder, 5-10K primers, etc.), but this can be done in smaller quantities if you put in the effort to organize a group buy with other fellow loaders so that you can split the costs of shipping, hazmat, etc.

Another thing to note here is that you don't need to drive yourself crazy finding the powder that is $xx cheaper because a significant increase in powder cost is relatively insignificant in the overall cost per round. I was playing with the numbers, and even a 50% increase in powder cost would only raise the cost per round by a negligible amount.

Fly
 
I don't consider the cost. I enjoy reloading as much as shooting. I find my self going to the range to free some cases up for a new and improved batch.
 
I agree with your post 100%.

For anyone suggesting you won't save money reloading 9mm, I highly disagree.
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I don't think anyone is saying you won't save money by reloading 9mm. I understand them to say that saving @$3 a box is not worth their reloading time since if it takes them 1/2 hour-1 hour (including set-up time) to reload 50 rounds, they would just as soon pay the extra $3.

You will save round per round, but will cost you more if you shoot more because of your reloading over just buying and did not reload.
 
I don't consider the cost. I enjoy reloading as much as shooting. I find my self going to the range to free some cases up for a new and improved batch.
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Funny. I thought I was the only one who felt the frustration to run out of cases and then burdened to go shooting, just so I could get some empty cases. I sometimes wonder what aspect I enjoy more.
 
I definitely save money loading 38/357 and 44. That being said I do it because I enjoy it, because I like the science of it, and because I've stumbled into a few rounds that I can't buy off the shelf that I really like. Plus, yes I do shoot more. It's not always about "the dirty dinero" :D
 
NINEX19 said:
I don't think anyone is saying you won't save money by reloading 9mm. I understand them to say that saving @$3 a box is not worth their reloading time since if it takes them 1/2 hour-1 hour (including set-up time) to reload 50 rounds, they would just as soon pay the extra $3
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9mm is probably the cheapest ammo you can buy off the shelf, and very often you won't see significant cost savings, specially when your time is considered.
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Not picking on this poster, but I would say that saving half the cost or more on a vast majority of any caliber that you reload IS worth the money. One exception is if you shoot very little of a particular caliber. If I only shot a couple hundred of 9mm each year, then no, it would not be worth it. Another exception would be your equipment limitations. Again, I have a Dillon XL650 and my time to reload will be a LOT less than those with single stage or non-auto indexing presses. If I didn't have such a press, I might think otherwise.

If you aren't cutting your cost per round down to about half as much as quality factory loads, then you could probably do better. As you say, NINEX19, you have to decide what your time is worth.

Fly
 
I am reloading 9mm for between $50 and $60 a thousand rounds.
I also reload all my 7.62x39 stuff too. I can beat the Steel ammo cost by quite a bit.

Now I am not saying if I was a new reloader and all I shot was 9mm and 7.62x39?

I doubt it, Cost saving compared to the learning curve, and equipment cost.
Although still there, may never have reached a point I would have gotten off the sni.

But since I was already reloading for calibers that its the only way you can afford to shoot them.
Adding a new caliber is easy and cheap.

As a matter of fact a 9mm was the last caliber I ever got into. Did not want to just shoot what every one else shoots.

If you only shooting 9's and you just like going to the range once in a while. Not really interested in other calibers/ guns/ their history, ect.

Just go buy you 9mm and be happy. If you get into reloading you will just hate it. And I will get another good deal on a press.:D

If you are a gun guy and shooting 9mm because the others cost to much to feed.
Come on in!!! The gun world is your oyster. Nothing is unavailing.
Heck I even reload for the old 32long rim fire. Try buying ammo for that one.
 
I too have a Dillon XL650 with case feeder/collator and can load 400 per hour at a leisurely pace. I also cast my own bullets and I get 9mm loaded for around $3 per 50. I usually wait until I have 1000 cases for each caliber I load and spend a day loading and then don't worry about it for a while.
 
I'm a Hornady progressive press guy (LNL) you wont save doesn't matter whos equipment you use.....You shoot more:D:):o

thewelshm
 
if the overall equation is going to make sense for me or not. A lot of that will depend on the cost savings, but I know that's not the only factor.
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No it does not make sense. You will be spending a LOT more money on equipment and components than you have calculated. And let us not forget the shortages on powder, primers, bullets we encounter every now and then.

I doubt you will save a dine, but you will shoot up a lot more ammo.

If you shot about a thousand rounds a month, you will see some savings, but if only 500 rounds per month, you will not.

Good luck and stay safe.
Jim
 
The single most expensive thing I've ever done associated with shooting is getting into reloading. Yes, I'm able to produce a round superior to good factory ammo at a lower per-round cost IF (and that's a big IF) you ignore the cost of equipment and other costs associated with making hand loads. If you consider how much "stuff" I now own, I figure I'll amortize the equipment if I live to be 200 years old, give or take a few years.

Naturally, a big part of reloading is load development. The fact is, that in order to develop a good "recipe" you have to do something like load five rounds of five or six different charge weights in hopes of finding one out of the five which shoots well. That means that 80% of the development rounds are junk with only 20% good, and that's if you're lucky.............. real lucky.

Then you get to repeat that process for half a dozen different powders, several types of primers, several different cases, and who knows how many different bullets. All the while you are expecting success out of only a small percentage of what you produce and you're expecting the rest to be junk. They say "You won't save money but you'll be able to shoot a lot more". That's true because, to begin with at least, most of the ammo you produce will be junk as you search for the key to making "the good stuff". Filtering through that takes a lot of shooting, mostly missing the target. That's the part they don't tell you.

By the time you find the best recipe you've worn out your barrel and spent a fortune on range fees too. Naturally, when you do eventually discover enhanced accuracy associated with hand loading, you find yourself addicted to precision shooting as surely as if it were a drug. You are unable to resist the urge to upgrade your front rest, you "need" a roll of expensive Teflon tape, you "require" a good chronograph, you "must" have a good spotting scope, and you need a more powerful rifle scope........... the upgrades are endless.

Obviously all this new equipment needs testing too, requiring more ammo and more time at the range.

By now you're so deep into reloading that you've discovered that storing your ammo and doing your reloading in your garage isn't a good idea so you hire a contractor to build a special reloading room as an addition to your house. Building costs, permits, fees, insurance, and increased property taxes associated with your reloading room shouldn't run more than fifty thousand bucks, not including the extra presses, automated powder dispensers, and dies you are unable to resist.

Of course, it goes without saying that the divorce is the most expensive part of reloading.

Anyone contemplating reloading better enjoy it 'cause it's going to cost you a bundle. Me personally??.......... I love it.
 
I dont factor in the cost of equipment. Unless you break it, its always worth some thing.
If you buy correctly any loss will be nill when you sell it.

Example: My 1st progressive was a RCBS Rock Chucker with the Piggy Back 2 attachment. I did not buy it all at once I picked it up over time when I found deals on the shell plates and other parts.
All told I had all the equipment to reload 5 calibers along with the case activated linkage upgrade. My total cost was $300.
I picked up a Hornady Projector progressive for $150.

I sold the RCBS equipment for $400 and took advantage of the Hornady trade in. They gave me $200 off a New LNL AP.
SO I made money on the other two presses and traded up to a new LNL AP
SO unless I break it I will always be able to get out what I have in it.

I look at it as just a place to store the money I would have wasted on ready made ammo. I can then sell the tool and get most of it back.

Even if you paid full blown retail for your tools. They will always be worth no less than 1/2 that.

The best buy one could ever make, is to buy a used RCBS rock chucker.
Wait till you find one for $100 or so. RCBS will cover it for life. Use it 20 years. Then sell it for the $100
 
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Mozella, your post could not be more true.

Your scenario reminds me of the children's book, "If You Give A Mouse A Cookie". :)

For most people, it kind of snowballs, and before you know it, you are in way deeper than you realize as far as investing. I know feel I have enough components to open a small reloading shop. Not by plan, just by accident. There is always a new bullet weight/profile mixed with a different powder vs charge weight vs gun that you just have to try to see if it is the "perfect" one for this application or that application. I love experimenting with new combos. My wife does not understand... a bullet is a bullet. Right? :D
 
I have looked at the cost of reloading and have decided that it doesn't matter to me. Because the rounds that I reload are much more accurate than any thing I can buy. That is more important than any savings.
 
Gunpowder - $126.99/8 lbs (no tax, no shipping, no hazmat included)
Small Pistol Primers - $143.99/5000 (no tax, no shipping, no hazmat included)
115 Grain 9mm Bullets - $97.99/1000 (no tax, no shipping included)
185 Grain .45 Bullets - $115.99/1000 (no tax, no shipping included)
55 Grain .223 Bullets - $518.99/6000 (no tax, no shipping included)
Small Rifle Primers - $153.99/5000 (no tax, no shipping, no hazmat included)

Assuming I can reuse my own brass, the cost/round comes to $0.39 for 9mm, $0.56 for .45, and $0.24 for .223.

Lots of good info in this thread.
I will use 4 gr per round for powder as an average. It will of course depend on the type powder you select. Usually, most pistol powders will work in both calibers listed with a few exceptions. Rifle will require a different powder.

I would like to point out that I believe your math is way off.
Based on the prices you give here, all rounded up to the nearest dollar,
your per round cost for components is;
Powder: $.0023 per gr (4 gr per round = $.0092)
Primers: $.029 per round
Bullet: 9mm .098 per round

So for 9mm. your cost is 12.9 per round. (and depending on powder, your charge per round could be slightly less.

.45 - Bullet cost listed is $.116 per round, so .45 cost would be 14.7 per round.


FYI, there are 7000 gr of powder per pound. so at 4 gr per round you can load ((7000 gr X 8 lbs) / 4gr) 14,000 rounds.

Currently, local prices for factory ammo runs approximately $.30 per round for 9mm, $.40 per round for .40 S&W, and $.50 a round for .45 ACP.

I don't load .223/5.56 (yet) I have plenty for my personal use.
Local prices seem to be running $.36 to $.55 depending on quantity and mfg.

Your powder prices will be higher for .223/5.56, but buying 6K bullets puts your per round cost at .086, which is really pretty good.

Good luck on your adventure.:)
 
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think anyone is saying you won't save money by reloading 9mm. I understand them to say that saving @$3 a box is not worth their reloading time since if it takes them 1/2 hour-1 hour (including set-up time) to reload 50 rounds, they would just as soon pay the extra $3.
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Exactly. I still do 9mm but don't consider it a savings.

Compare that to .454 Casull that has to cost $100 a box by now that I can load for about $10-$12 or .44 magnun that costs(guessing) $35 or $40 a box that I can load for $8-$10. Now THAT is savings!

As for equipment costs, its what you want to spend. You can easily put togther a basic setup to load a pistol round for under $300, and if that round is .454 or .44 mag, it doesn't take long to start coming out ahead.
 
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