Considering a j frame

I use a Remora pouch to hold speed strips. Right behind my carry gun on my right hip. Easy to reach and perfect indexing of the strip. Makes for a damn fast reload with practice, almost as fast as the Glock boys but a whole lot more powerful of a round and about as reliable as a steel anvil.
 
Makes for a damn fast reload with practice, almost as fast as the Glock boys but a whole lot more powerful of a round and about as reliable as a steel anvil.
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Now, now, Lets not get to carried away. :D
 
You can buy a good used 36 or 49 J frame for about same price as these newer ones. I enjoy my older pistols a few more oz in weight But they Handel +P very well and lot better made than the MIM jobs of today. All of my J frames have pinned barrels and a real firing pin . Great bluing and way nicer triggers. . Leave those light weight at dealers carry the real steel . They pocked carried for years before people started crying their heavy at 21 or 22 oz. I started pocket carry in the 70's and never thought about their weight. Back then or today . My pocket holster is leather made by Don Hume several years old and still works fine.
 
Picked up the holster this morning, and wore it for a while. The 642 will definitely be carried and shot often. The only things I may add are some Crimson trace grips and paint the front sight.

Thanks for the advice everyone, it's a great gun and carry option.

Although, between the 642 and my Ruger new model Blackhawk convertible 9/357 Im starting to really like revolvers...
 
oneloudvous said:
Picked up the holster this morning, and wore it for a while. The 642 will definitely be carried and shot often. The only things I may add are some Crimson trace grips and paint the front sight.



Thanks for the advice everyone, it's a great gun and carry option.



Although, between the 642 and my Ruger new model Blackhawk convertible 9/357 Im starting to really like revolvers...
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Good luck!

If you don't care for your trigger, you can always opt for a trigger kit from Apex or Wilson. I didn't need it on a 442 but my 640 did.



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I'm considering a j frame, primarily a 442 or 642.
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I do not own either. However, I own a S&W M36 (Chiefs Special), and have noted that the .38 Special cases do not clear the chambers when pushing all the way down on that short ejector rod. I suspect that the 442s and 642s, also being J frames may have the same issue. While only anying as a range gun, it may seem problematic with a carry gun...you cannot use a speed loader(s) until the empties are clear of the cylinder.
 
I do not own either. However, I own a S&W M36 (Chiefs Special), and have noted that the .38 Special cases do not clear the chambers when pushing all the way down on that short ejector rod. I suspect that the 442s and 642s, also being J frames may have the same issue. While only anying as a range gun, it may seem problematic with a carry gun...you cannot use a speed loader(s) until the empties are clear of the cylinder.
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Slap that ejector rood hard. They'll clear.
 
Slap that ejector rood hard. They'll clear.
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Yep.
I'm right handed and use my right thumb to push the cylinder release. My left fingers push the cylinder all the way out of the frame as my left hand turns the muzzle up. My right palm comes down briskly on the ejector rod and the empties fall out. All this is done with the revolver still up in front of my body and slightly extended.

After the empties are out, I bring the revolver down with my left hand to my belt line with the muzzle down. While doing this, my right hand retrieves the speed loader (Safariland) and jams it in the cylinder releasing the cartridges. I drop the loader, swipe the back of the cylinder with my right thumb and use the left thumb to close the cylinder while keeping the muzzle down. When the cylinder closes, I re-establish my firing grip with the right hand while bringing the revolver back on target.

It sure takes a lot less time to do than to type. Others might have methods that work better for them.
 
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