Jim Watson
New member
Florida Vet, can you say where this match is to be?
I was under the impression that there was no regulation 1000 yard range in Alabama, that the Alabama Long Range Championships have been held in Tennessee for some time.
Calling all Experts
- Thread starter Doc Hoy
- Start date
Florida Vet, can you say where this match is to be?
I was under the impression that there was no regulation 1000 yard range in Alabama, that the Alabama Long Range Championships have been held in Tennessee for some time.
May have been here but I didn't think the 1000 yard range was open yet.
http://alabamatacticalshooters.com/
http://alabamatacticalshooters.com/
Jim Watson
New member
The ATS range was shut down by noise complaints enforced against them because they were in the "police jurisdiction" and supported by the League of Municipalities.
The owner is suing to recover his sunk costs and moving to a new location, but that is going to push back operations a good deal.
The owner is suing to recover his sunk costs and moving to a new location, but that is going to push back operations a good deal.
Okay...I am ready to start making bullets....
I am going down to cut on the lead pot.
I'll wind up with a 200 grain RNFP with two grooves made from relatively pure lead (I think above 98%.)
I am going to use my standard lube in the two grooves and I am going to crimp the bullet such that both of the grooves are in the case.
I am going to use a wad with my standard lube over the powder.
I will not be using a paper between the wad and the slug (and this is where I need your advice)
I am going to use FFFg grade of Triple 7.
I am going to fill the case such that I get about 1/8 th inch compression. This gives me right at 30 Gr of powder.
I am using a WLP primer.
I am going down to cut on the lead pot.
I'll wind up with a 200 grain RNFP with two grooves made from relatively pure lead (I think above 98%.)
I am going to use my standard lube in the two grooves and I am going to crimp the bullet such that both of the grooves are in the case.
I am going to use a wad with my standard lube over the powder.
I will not be using a paper between the wad and the slug (and this is where I need your advice)
I am going to use FFFg grade of Triple 7.
I am going to fill the case such that I get about 1/8 th inch compression. This gives me right at 30 Gr of powder.
I am using a WLP primer.
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
What happens if its compressed to much? or too much open gap left between the powder and the bullets base. What happens there? Just another one of those learning experience for me Hawg. I got a jug of Triple 7 in 2FF loose I've never opened here. I didn't know if it would work for my application of it. That's why it's still sealed yet after 3-4 years since I bought it.
robhof
If there's an air gap, there will be a serious pressure spike as with real b/p, too much compression and ignition is inconsistant, but it handles light compression quite well. I've used triple7 in 45Lc and 45ACP rounds in my BH convertable and I get consistant shots with repeatable results. I load on a single stage and seat bullet til light resistance is felt.
If there's an air gap, there will be a serious pressure spike as with real b/p, too much compression and ignition is inconsistant, but it handles light compression quite well. I've used triple7 in 45Lc and 45ACP rounds in my BH convertable and I get consistant shots with repeatable results. I load on a single stage and seat bullet til light resistance is felt.
Howdy, Doc...
I load for BPCR, and use only Goex or Swiss powders.
Here's what I have learned...it might help.
1. Black Powder likes compression. heavy compression will give you a bigger flash--more unburnt powder coming out--but less recoil. Medium to light compression will burn more efficiently, but recoil will increase.
2. I have found that SPG bullet lube works well for my purposes. I know that there are some excellent recipes for home-made BP lube, but I haven't tried any yet. And, remember the primary purpose of bullet lube for BP guns--it is not so much for lubing the bullet, but softening the fouling left behind upon firing.
3. Your best friend at the range is a can or pan of soapy water. Dump your fired cases straight into them right after firing. If you want to go the extra mile, you can wipe the cases down after your range session is finished. it will make cleaning later on easier.
4. Make sure that you clean your revolver VERY well right after firing. The residue left behind is hydroscopic--attracts moisture.
5. Finally, it will be a good thing at the range to take a rag that you can dampen with soapy water. Periodically pull the cylinder and wipe down the front with the soapy water; follow that with a good oil. (Usually you would use absolutely NO petroleum products around black powder--however, since the cartridge is sealed it won't hurt.
If you have any more questions, I highly recommend Buffalo Arms Company. They will help tremendously in all aspects of BP shooting.
I load for BPCR, and use only Goex or Swiss powders.
Here's what I have learned...it might help.
1. Black Powder likes compression. heavy compression will give you a bigger flash--more unburnt powder coming out--but less recoil. Medium to light compression will burn more efficiently, but recoil will increase.
2. I have found that SPG bullet lube works well for my purposes. I know that there are some excellent recipes for home-made BP lube, but I haven't tried any yet. And, remember the primary purpose of bullet lube for BP guns--it is not so much for lubing the bullet, but softening the fouling left behind upon firing.
3. Your best friend at the range is a can or pan of soapy water. Dump your fired cases straight into them right after firing. If you want to go the extra mile, you can wipe the cases down after your range session is finished. it will make cleaning later on easier.
4. Make sure that you clean your revolver VERY well right after firing. The residue left behind is hydroscopic--attracts moisture.
5. Finally, it will be a good thing at the range to take a rag that you can dampen with soapy water. Periodically pull the cylinder and wipe down the front with the soapy water; follow that with a good oil. (Usually you would use absolutely NO petroleum products around black powder--however, since the cartridge is sealed it won't hurt.
If you have any more questions, I highly recommend Buffalo Arms Company. They will help tremendously in all aspects of BP shooting.
Thanks Powderman
I was at the blinkin Pass Pro Shop yesterday and was standing in front of the GOEX and Opted to leave it on the shelf. Oh Well.
Can I get enough lube by using only the lube on the bullet or is it essential to use the wad too?
If I use the wad is it essential to use a paper between the wad and the slug to make sure the wad separates from the slug?
I was at the blinkin Pass Pro Shop yesterday and was standing in front of the GOEX and Opted to leave it on the shelf. Oh Well.
Can I get enough lube by using only the lube on the bullet or is it essential to use the wad too?
If I use the wad is it essential to use a paper between the wad and the slug to make sure the wad separates from the slug?
Jim Watson
New member
You don't have the lube requirements with 777 that you do real black.
The one batch I tried worked fine with hard wax lubed smokeless bullets and cleaned up with clear water.
I only load real black for single shot rifles. The blow tube or wiping rod keep the gun at stable condition for every shot.
The one batch I tried worked fine with hard wax lubed smokeless bullets and cleaned up with clear water.
I only load real black for single shot rifles. The blow tube or wiping rod keep the gun at stable condition for every shot.
Wad, grease cookie etc.
Doc Hoy,
Sorry, I've missed the post for a few days. The grease cookie I use is not a felt wad soaked in lube, it is pure lube. I use a over powder card to protect the powder from the lube. It's a cardboar/fiber card, maybe 1/16th of an inch. You can get them from all the major BP sites. I still use the over powder card even if I don't use a grease cookie. It helps protect the base of the bullet from the heat, etc.
I do sometimes worry about the grease cookie sticking to the back of the bullet, and I'm pretty sure that has happened to me once, as I once found a small portion of the grease cookie lodged in the bullet hole at the target.
My overall intent is to get away from the grease cookie with .45 Colt, and am working up several loads to see which will work without. I ordered some Big Lube bullets, so we'll see.
I have not tried the paper over the primer, but I think you can probably dispense with that. If I find a load that shoots well for me, I may then try the paper over the primer to see if that reduces group size. That's a ways down the road.
Cheers,
chowmi
Doc Hoy,
Sorry, I've missed the post for a few days. The grease cookie I use is not a felt wad soaked in lube, it is pure lube. I use a over powder card to protect the powder from the lube. It's a cardboar/fiber card, maybe 1/16th of an inch. You can get them from all the major BP sites. I still use the over powder card even if I don't use a grease cookie. It helps protect the base of the bullet from the heat, etc.
I do sometimes worry about the grease cookie sticking to the back of the bullet, and I'm pretty sure that has happened to me once, as I once found a small portion of the grease cookie lodged in the bullet hole at the target.
My overall intent is to get away from the grease cookie with .45 Colt, and am working up several loads to see which will work without. I ordered some Big Lube bullets, so we'll see.
I have not tried the paper over the primer, but I think you can probably dispense with that. If I find a load that shoots well for me, I may then try the paper over the primer to see if that reduces group size. That's a ways down the road.
Cheers,
chowmi