And heres my first question ?

[Hawg]

I may be missing it on yours but there should be a flattened area on the arbor where the hand passes it. I had a new Navy that was not done, it would work but was tight.

Uberti has a flat spot. Pietta has a step down in arbor diameter there.

 

[Ricekila]

Started blending the grips

Maybe a little contouring ?

 

[Ricekila]

On this ASM - where the arbor is into the frame ( threaded & pinned ? ) - its .430 - on the hand side the slot is just shy of the arbor edge

 

[Hawg]

You should be polishing the rough casting smooth instead of filing it. You're going to end up polishing it anyway.

 

[Ricekila]

Learning from another kit I did years ago starting with "The Dremel" -- it came out to wavy -- this I started draw filing then file backed #400G emery - then tapping the frame with the grip installed -- 100G paper till the tape starts to show signs of wearing through -- this way the wood is still 1/2-ish a credit card thickness proud -- then I'll hand sand it off the frame - check fit gaps -- hot wet towel -- check -- then final brass polishing --

And I leave in the screws to prevent dishing -- then they get dressed & polished

 

[Ricekila]

And here's my second question

I took the brass down so everything is nice and flat / true -- then worked the grip close to the wood with filing and very little Dremel work

Sanded -- hot towel to bring up the fuzzys - lite sanding -- its ready to stain

The question ?

It fits snugly but not over tight -- is there any reason / benefit to back filling with J-B Weld to close up the inner gaps ?

This kit is from the late 1980's -- I ass-u-me the wood is dried out by now

 

[44 Dave]

Got the pictures put in post # 19.

 

[Ricekila]

Yep -- I got the slightly smaller arbor threads and the brass in one smaller section is thinner for the hand to slide in

 

[Ricekila]

One coat Minwax Dark Walnut #2716 / 8 + hour dry / #0000 buff / another coat / dry / #0000 buff / first lite coat of polly

What ever kind of wood this is -- nice grain

And my spare showed up

Interesting -- when I just looked at this pic -- the pin screws in -- mine is a loose press fit ?

 

[Ricekila]

At some point I gotta stop trying to polish what isn't there -- I work down one imperfection in the casting - two more pop up

And Its hard to put back wood that wasn't there to begin with --- if it was worth it - I've carve one out from a chunk of Maple

After a finale polish / clean up -- "it is what it is" --

Up next -- "Barrel spinning"

Maybe the cylinder too -- I cant tell the difference between the ships and scratchs

 

[Ricekila]

This time I opted for a wood dowel - the slowest I can get my vertical milling machine ( drill press ) is 760 RPM -- way to fast

Two wraps of scotch tape every inch got it tight enough to turn it with the rifling when I pushed it in --

So chucking in a drill motor & a support block for the other end -- I can spin it at about 25 - 30 RPM -- slow enough to count

After about 10 minutes & one sheet of #400 G --

The deepest chatter grooves are about 1/2 a needle thickness on my calipers -- just deep enough to see & feel ---

When I get it all smoothed out with #800 G -- then a lite buffing with a green scotch brite for painting --

 

[4V50 Gary]

As Hershel House said in one of his videos, Kentucky Lathe!

 

[Ricekila]

Just wait till I tighten the quill on this thing -- or at least find a bearing that fits better

 

[Ricekila]

Cap sucker filled in --

Ready for paint

Wedged just enough so the safety clip grabs the outside of the barrel -- back of the barrel filed and polished so theres .10 clearance to the cylinder --

Cylinder cleaned up nicely - just lite scratches - ships show up nicely --

Ready for paint :thumb:

 

[Ricekila]

So thinking ahead a wee-bit to which cylinder might become the safety one --- theres a guy on YouTube who checks for chamber equal-ness by filling each one with powder then measuring the volumes --- the only thing about that I question -- ( even if its only by minute amounts ) -- it could be just a little off ?

So - oiling up the nipple threads - putting a small amount of plumbers putty in the capping holes --- my syringe is measured in ML -- ?

Utilizing my Wifey's favorite Tea cup ( pink ) with water --

Filling the syringe up to the 4 line --- each cylinder filled equally too -- two lines above empty --

Still -- if one consistently throws a flyer --- that's my safety chamber -- no nip installed :

And I dressed some screws --

 

[drobs]

Looks good Rice.

I might have 1 for the goon. I bought a Pietta 1860 steel frame (stripped frame) off gunbroker & a complete brass framed "1851" Pietta Sheriff model 44 from Cabela's last big sale.

Finding that either the hand it too long or I have a take off Pietta frame with a short arbor. Could be a reason it was for sale on gunbroker. Something aint right and I quickly gave up on it. Seems my shade tree gunsmithing might need some more work.

 

[Ricekila]

 

[Hawg]

I have a take off Pietta frame with a short arbor.

A Pietta with a short arbor? Pietta has used at least four different Colt hands that I know of.

 

[drobs]

Somethin aint right with this one...

Maybe I should try a couple more hands before giving up. With the barrel off the action works just fine all the clicks are there.

Put the barrel on and I find I don't have all the clicks or can't fully cock the hammer back.

Edit: Now that I think about it. There's a couple other things I should've tried 1st - was using the 51-44 cylinder on the 60 frame. That might be issue.

Should've also tried a 60 cylinder and 60 barrel / wedge on it to see if that would solve it.

Now I'm back in Africa...
Will have to revisit it in a couple months.

 

[Hawg]

If the bolt locks in but it won't go into full cock the hand is too long. I have seen one doing that where the hand was the right length but it needed an angle on the tip.