338 win mag vs 375 h&h

.338 or .375 for Sitka deer to coastal brownies? Either would work. But, bullet construction is going to play a major role in effectiveness. The Sitka deer are relatively small thin skinned animals. A heavily constructed bullet designed for penetration through large game isn't going to expand significantly on a broadside shot on a Sitka deer. Something like a Nosler partition in a .338 may be versatile enough to cover both.
 
i bought my Model 70 375 in 1974. I was living in Alaska and decided I needed a "big" gun.

I was trying to decide on the 338 or 375 also. I just happened to have a friend that had both so I got to try both.

They were the same rifle, both Model 70. Regardless which caliber I wouldnt buy anything but a Model 70.

Spent all day at the range shooting both and decided on the 375 H&H.

Reasoning, the recoil was lighter on the 375. And I found the 375 to be more accurate. At the time I hadn't hunted with either. My friend told me for Coastal Alaska hunting the 375 was better because for some reason, it didnt open up on the little Sitka Black Tails, the 338 did. but the 375 bullets would open up on heavier game.

Not sure I believed that at the time, but later, hunting deer with the 375 I found that to be true. With heart/lung shots the 375 would do its job on deer without undo damage.

Still have the 375 H&H. I have used it for elk here in Wyoming, but the weight difference I prefer my Model 70 Featherweight in 270.

I did wimp out and put a muzzle brake on it. Now its a pleasure to shoot, even heavy bullets.

My kid did take it out last year, he got an elk, handed t to his hunting partner who also got his, both out of the same herd.

I'll never get rid of the 375 H&H, but in Wyoming there isnt nothing that need shot that cant be handled with my 270 or of late, my 6.5 CM.

I built a 338 Model 70 for a friend of mind. It too kicked more then my 375. He wished he went that route but the action we used wasn't long enough.

Regardless which you choose, I highly recommend a muzzle brake. Less recoil means less fatigue, flinches and better shooting.
 
Thank you for the replies so I'm leaning toward the 375 h&h i can find ammo easier for it or borrow some from my grandpa in a pinch how bad is recoil compared to 225 grain 338 win mag or 3.5 inch 12 gauge slug
 
Avery, the 12 gauge slug will recoil considerably more. The 338 and 375 aren't terribly different from each other. That based on studying recoil tables vs actual experience. I have shot a lot of 2 3/4 inch 12 gauge slugs, and off the bench they bother me more than a 375 H&H which I have shot but a couple of dozen times.

You can't talk about hunting brown bears and not tell us where you hope to do so!
 
The hunt would be when my grandpa has a break from tractor pulling to hunt in alaska his last time so he knows where i don't but i do know the hunt will be within 5 years
 
* * * Regardless which you choose, I highly recommend a muzzle brake. Less recoil means less fatigue, flinches and better shooting.
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Can't agree with that.

For the limited amount of shots you'll get to take on game in the field (i.e., when actually out hunting, not shooting at cute pictures of paper animals off a bench), a muzzle break is unnecessary.

Many hunting camps here, and most in Africa, prohibit muzzle breaks on big-bore rifles due to the ear-damaging, lateral concussive blast which these devices are known to inflict on any fellow hunters, guides, and/or PHs standing next to you.

Solution: put your Big-Boy pants on, man-up, get out to the range, and learn to shoot your .338 or .375H&H properly (yeah, I've got a .375 BRNO 602), ... or else limit your hunting to a .22lr for squirrels and such. :rolleyes:
 
Recoil - the 375 H&H has higher recoil energy , but lower recoil velocity than the 333WM. High recoil velocity gives a punch rather than a push ! That explains the recoil difference.:)
 
You are going to love brown bear hunting. I was stationed in Kodiak for 3 years and was able to hunt brown bear there two of those years. I never tagged one, but I have a few very memorable hunts. Heck, just being in the woods with animals that can turn you from the hunter into the hunted is a thrill.
 
I would imagine if you get a brown bear in your crosshairs recoil will be the last thing on your mind.
Just make sure the gun fits you and you have a scope that can be set up properly to afford generous eye relief. Perhaps a 2 x 7 or a 1.5 x 6; most of those can be mounted to give a clear "picture" with plenty of relief.
 
Measured, objective recoil is one thing, perceived recoil is another. I have never dreaded my .338 WM, although 60 rounds of load workup from the bench can wear a guy out. I did dread sighting in my 870 with Brennke KO slugs. Which one has greater recoil? And which one has a narrow buttstock designed for wingshooting? I certainly wouldn't choose one medium bore over another because of the recoil. They're all going to give a pretty good thump. You make the choice to deal with it when you choose one over, say, a .270.
 
About Muzzle Brakes:

I agree that you wont notice the recoil while shooting at a Brownie

HOWEVER, hopefully that's not the only shot you'll fire out of your kicker.

One needs to shoot it to sight it in, then shoot it a lot more to get proficient and comfortable with what ever you shoot.

Doing that, is going to cause fatigue and more then likely flinching. That will carry forward, whether you like it or not, to you shots at game in the field.

If you dont want to use the brake in the field, fine, take it off, put on a thread cap and problem solved.

The thing is the habits you develop practicing, will carry forward to the field.

You will develop a flinch if you do any shooting at all, a brake will help eliminate that. Its a lot easier to prevent the habit of flinching then curing a flinch.
 
how bad is recoil compared to 225 grain 338 win mag or 3.5 inch 12 gauge slug
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If we are talking about a 9 lb .338 rifle .vs. a 6 lb 12 gauge, 3 1/2 inch using slugs, single shot I'd say the 12 gauge will be a BEAST you won't want to shoot again.

Deaf
 
Brakes are only useful when shooting for long periods off the bench, and only then if everyone around you is wearing double ear-protection and standing well back of the shooter. :rolleyes:

If you dont want to use the brake in the field, fine, take it off, put on a thread cap, and problem solved.
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Not really. :rolleyes: You've increased the "problem" of felt-recoil, which is actually less important than the second problem you've just created ...

By removing the brake (and attaching a threaded cap), you've just altered the harmonics of the barrel. That, in turn, will change the POI of the bullet unless you go back to the range and re-zero the rifle for the new POA/POI without the brake attached.

Folks who use suppressors see this POI variance all the time - first shooting a group with the can on, and then shooting a group with the can off. Both times with the same ammo. The POI will change.

The difference in POI can vary from a slight change to a large one, depending on whether the barrel is thin or thick (pencil v. bull), and whether the can is a fast attach unit on a QD mount, or whether it's a thread-on type (e.g., OPS/Allen Eng). In a hunting situation, even a slight change in POI can result in a clean miss if the game is far enough away or moving.

Muzzle brakes are shooting "crutches" with limited use. For hunting applications, most camps won't allow them, nor will some shooting and training schools, at least not without first obtaining special permission.

Word to the wise, my dudenals.
 
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I've never shot a 12 gauge load that delivers 2.5 tons of muzzle energy--but my 375 ruger can.
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The shooter does not feel the muzzle energy unless he is on the wrong end of the gun.

I have shot some 12 ga loads that make you feel as though someone hit you on the shoulder with a sledge.
 
I have shot some 12 ga loads that make you feel as though someone hit you on the shoulder with a sledge.
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Amen!

I've shot .458 Winchester Magnum rifle (a Ruger 77), 416 Remington, and owned and shot .338 Winchester Magnum. Also shot Mossberg 500 18 inch 12 gauge shotgun with 3 inch magnum buckshot.

I assure you the 12 gauge Mossie hurt much more! I could not even fire all five of the shells I had.

Deaf
 
I have shot some 12 ga loads that make you feel as though someone hit you on the shoulder with a sledge.
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Absolutely--I've used an 870 for many years for both high velocity steel turkey loads and slugs for deer; and yes it delivers a sledge hammer to the shoulder. The weight of the gun(s) of course do make a huge difference in felt recoil. When I put a heavy high power load in my 375 ruger--it's a bit like being rear-ended in a car accident if you aren't holding on and pulling in right.:)
 
I'm happy with my 338 Win Mag. Down loaded a bit it still shoots very well and proved quite good for mule deer. Nothing wrong with the 375 H&H, and it's a better choice for big African game.

If I were choosing between them today I'd still choose the 338 unless a hunt in Africa was on the horizon. The difference in recoil between the two is minor and wouldn't affect my choice. The gun particulars will affect perceived recoil much more than the caliber choice in this case.
 
If you are hunting deer, anywhere, either one is major overkill. There's no game in North America that requires a magnum of any kind to kill. Including big bears. However, the real issue is how much are you going to practice with cartridges with excessive felt recoil? Plus the ammo is really expensive. .375 H&H starts at $60 per 20 on sale.
A Sako Kodiak with a 21.25" barrel weighs 7.9 pounds.
A 9.0 pound .375 H&H Mag. using a 235 grain bullet at 2700 FPS has 29.5 ft-lbs. of recoil.
An 8.5 pound .338 Win. Mag. using a 225 grain bullet at 2780 FPS has 33.1 ft-lbs. of recoil.
A 7.5 pound 12 gauge, using 1 1/2 ounces of shot or a slug at 1260 FPS has 45.0 ft-lbs.
"....338 WM is a cartridge people love to hate..." Nearly blown off the bench shooting next to a guy with one. But I don't hate the cartridge. Dislike the guys who shoot 'em instead of a cartridge they can shoot.
 
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