10MM for Woods Gun?

Nuff said.

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You simply cannot get more foot lbs of energy in one magazine than a 10mm. With the glock 20, you have 15+1 rounds of energy similar or greater than a 357mag. You would have to go to a .41mag or .44mag to obtain more ft/lbs.
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My main worry in the woods, which is to say, my yard, is a sudden attack by a bear or moose. In that situation you're probably going to have time to fire one or two rounds before you become airborne. I don't want to become airborne, nor do I want to carry a revolver. Everything is a compromise. Mine is a 5" Kimber souped up to 45 Super (230 gr. FMJ at 1,100). Fairly lightweight and concealable for EDC, but packs a considerable punch.

Of course, having skinned out a 9' grizzly once years ago the thought of taking one on with even a .44 Magnum is somewhat terrifying. So, I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. There's going to be some luck required, not matter what you are holding. Steel nerves help, too. Bud Helmericks killed a charging grizzly with a single .22 shot to the forehead while grouse hunting near his Colville River homestead in the 60's. I'm not sure my nerves are that good. :)
 
It really doesn't take much to safely shoot 45 super from a full size, all steel 1911. I'd recommend an EGW square firing pin stop, Wolf heavy duty fp spring and 22 lb. recoil spring, though a 20lb may suffice.
 
Game Over.

Okay, all you doubtin' dude-skis on this thread need to wake-up, man-up, and take yourselves a big ol' whiff of some 10mm coffee. ;)

The "ultimate" 10mm woods gun is here. So let's get serious.

Hear me now and believe me later .... It's game over.

10mm Glock 40 MOS ***


:cool:





*** And this Glock 40 model is absolutely not to be confused with that other "Glock Fortay" model which certain federal agencies are said to issue. :eek:
 
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If it wasn't vaporware at the time--that's what I would have bought. Now, correct me if I'm wrong--but it looks like the cartridges are presented by a less acute angle at the lips of the mag than say on a 20--it's that true?
 
super from a full size, all steel 1911. I'd recommend an EGW square firing pin stop, Wolf heavy duty fp spring and 22 lb. recoil spring, though a 20lb may suffice.
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If you are going to push them up to 1,100 fps you will need more than that. After experimenting I settled on a 28-lb. recoil (and matching FP spring) and a 30-lb. mainspring. I added a flat EGW FPS but I could not tell that it made any difference whatsoever. I left it in, though. All the flat FPS does is make it very slightly harder for the slide to lay the hammer back out of the way. Increasing the mainspring weight makes much, much more difference.

I went mainly by how far the brass was ejecting. I figured if they were hitting the ground more than 15 feet away I needed more resistance. With the current setup they land 10 - 12 feet away.

These loads are not fun to shoot the way .45 acp are in a steel 5" 1911, but they are what I want to carry.
 
Now, correct me if I'm wrong--but it looks like the cartridges are presented by a less acute angle at the lips of the mag than say on a 20--it's that true?
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Possibly, because the 3 mags that came in the case with the G40 had followers marked with a '4'.

But I have to tell you, I shot at least 2 full mags thru the G40 that were the older, "drop-free" mags for my G20. Their followers are marked with a '2' or '3' (can't recall which), but there were NO malfs of any kind during the 100-rds or so I had time to run thru the gun.
 
pray

As My 20 or whatever semi u have comes out of its holster u drop it, onto the leaves, dry dirt,wet dirt,leaves, twigs a partridge bones get caught somewhere inside, what do we have to do?
Don't tell me, tell yourself.
There you are silently walking thru thigh high scrub and in front of you momma bear stands up sniffin the wind,her pup stands along side her, you crap in your head,run,shoot, fly,she's 35 yards away, you draw your big single action ruger 44 magnum, dropping it, u pick it up, look, pull the cylinder, wipe out, close before its on target the cyl is closed, the bear shoves the cub and runs away, you look at the ruger, it has 6 180 grain hard jacked bullets at 1800 fps.
Do you feel that way about your 20 or 25 whatever you think about semis, think again.
Can you fire and hit a 4 inch target coming at you 40 mph, HUH. Thats what you got coming at you bad breath and all, the 4 inches is the front legs of the bear, did you practice that, hitting one of two moving legs or how can I fly. Your bullets have to break down that bears legs before his open jaws close on your head to crush it. They loove to do that, cause they know your not going to move after that. Read many of your comments, your not ready, a 1911 won't cut it, neither will your glock stop a griz or a big back bear.
 
As My 20 or whatever semi u have comes out of its holster u drop it, onto the leaves, dry dirt,wet dirt,leaves, twigs a partridge bones get caught somewhere inside, what do we have to do?
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I think my chances of doing six head-shots out of my 275gn 1200fps .44 on the coordinated attack by 6 grizzlies are greater than a semi like a Glock jamming up after being dropped on the forest leaf-litter floor, even if I have stumbled upon a secret partridge cemetery.

Besides, if a bear has 4" legs I can probably out-walk it.
 
scliclee said:
Can you fire and hit a 4 inch target coming at you 40 mph, HUH. Thats what you got coming at you bad breath and all, the 4 inches is the front legs of the bear, did you practice that, hitting one of two moving legs or how can I fly. Your bullets have to break down that bears legs before his open jaws close on your head to crush it.
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The few real-world examples I've read about of bear attacks -- I sure have never been attacked by a big bear, personally -- the shooter's weren't aiming at a running bear's legs at a great distance, but were aiming for something larger like it's chest -- you know: center mass. If they hit a leg or the head, great, but if they miss a leg and hit something more substantial, even better.

Most of the encounters I've read about don't give you the time you'd have in a 30-40 yard charge -- the bears seemingly come at your through heavier brush or cover, at almost the same speed, but generally from a closer starting point. (If I could see a bear 30-40 yards away, I'd be doing my best to make it more than 30-40 yards away as quickly as I could.) If the bear is close and I've got something to aim at, it's not going to be a moving leg, but the more stable center mass of the beast, as it comes at me. (Think big, bad guy on drugs...) Its almost always a surprise from a much closer distance.

I might be flustered or frightened enough to drop a handgun while being charged by an angry bear, but I hope not. But the likelihood of getting crap inside either weapon ought to be relatively small, but even much smaller in the case of most semi-autos.

I acknowledge that I'm a semi-auto guy, not a revolver guy, and that clearly colors my thinking, but if I've shot to empty using 6 rounds (and the threat is still coming), I'd much rather have started with 10-15 rounds than 6. Another 10-15 rounds (or more) in a holder on the belt is comforting, too, but IF you still need to shoot after the first 10-15 rounds, you're probably going to be an afternoon snack, either way. (The bear is coming quickly, don't forget...)

.
 
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I know guys that hunt black bears--BIG black bears--up here in Maine with homemade primitive bows that are sending wooden arrows at maybe 150 to 175 fps. They need to get within 30 yds to take the shot.
 
As My 20 or whatever semi u have comes out of its holster u drop it, onto the leaves, dry dirt,wet dirt,leaves, twigs a partridge bones get caught somewhere inside, what do we have to do?
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I've considered dirt, leaves, and twigs but I never imagined anything getting jammed up with partridge bones! Thanks for the heads up.
 
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