Will Jacketed Bullets Clean Lead

Status
Not open for further replies.
Put the bullet in backwards - cleans the lead off the bore and deposits it back on the bullet.

Now clean your gun and don't believe all you read on the internet, unless Al Gore told you personally.
 
oldmanFCSA said:
Put the bullet in backwards - cleans the lead off the bore and deposits it back on the bullet.
Click to expand...

You forgot to mention you have to drill a hole to glue a magnet into the bullet and then spit on it just before firing for that to work. Spinning the magnet in the rifling induces the current that does the reverse plating using saliva as the electrolyte. :D
 
Popiel Pocket High Performance Pistol Barrel Deleading Projectiles with Exclusive Grab-a-Lead hypoallergenic coating. (Batteries not included. Allow 6 weeks for delivery.)

:D
 
Unclenick said:
You forgot to mention you have to drill a hole to glue a magnet into the bullet and then spit on it just before firing for that to work. Spinning the magnet in the rifling induces the current that does the reverse plating using saliva as the electrolyte.
Click to expand...
I thought you had to pee down the barrel for it to work.
The other people at the indoor range didn't take too kindly to it though.

higgite said:
Popiel Pocket High Performance Pistol Barrel Deleading Projectiles with Exclusive Grab-a-Lead hypoallergenic coating. (Batteries not included. Allow 6 weeks for delivery.)
Click to expand...
By Ronco
That man is a marketing genius.
 
Find a cast load that doesn't lead the bore and your problems are over.
Click to expand...

Why that's so crazy it just might work! ;)

It has always worked for me, but has not been internet validated.
 
Well, these days I just use the Chore Boy but in years past I was told by some very old old timers that the best way to get the lead out was fill the bore with mercury, let stand for about 5 minutes, then drain the barrel. One tight patch and the lead was gone. Take my word on that, it works without you having to do a lot of work. Of course these days, I suppose possession of mercury is probably illegal.
Also years ago the was a treatment for head lice called Blue Ointment. The main ingredient was supposed to be mercury and was supposed to get the lead out quite nicely but Big brother outlawed that as well.
SAs was said, just use the Chore Boy or a Lewis Lead Remover. One way to alleviate the leading problem is get away from super hard bullets that won't bump up, especially at handgun pressures and use bullets properly sized for your firearm. I've been using bullets as soft as 8BHN but normally prefer 11 to 12 on the BHN scale. I've shot an 8 BHN bullet from a .357 Mag. at full power with no leading and great accuracy. They're sized at .359" for my revolver. In all honesty the bullets also have a gas check but the same bullet at 22 BHN, same sizing and check would lead the barrel badly. Naturally, YMMV.
Paul B.
 
Find a cast load that doesn't lead the bore and your problems are over.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea.... The only time I have leading problems anymore is a) wrong bullet hardness b) constriction in barrel or c) throats not set correctly. Once all is corrected, no need for 'chore-boy' and lewis lead remover (yes, I have them just in case on new guns). All I shoot is lead.
 
A piece of copper Chore Boy scrubbing pad wrapped around a bronze brush works wonders for removing lead. Just make sure it's copper and not copper plated SS.
Click to expand...

I used a Lewis Lead Remover for nearly 50 years before trying the ALL COPPER chore boy...it's really a miracle...a cpl passes and you're good to go. Try the internet for a source for ALL COPPER Chore Boy...one pack of them will last you years. The steel plated with copper variety scare the hell out of me how ever. Sharp edges and all that.

Rod
 
I must admit that 35 yrs ago I was told the same thing. I can remember when I was 17 or 18 shooting my 44mag and ending the session with a few silver tips. :rolleyes:
 
It is true that mercury was used as a lead remover. When a person got a gun so packed shut that it couldn't brush out, a Smith could cork the barrel with an ounce of mercury, and move it around a bit. Mercury attached itself to the lead, then formed a brittle amalgam.

You could clean out a pitted, streaked,ruined bore, but the idea of taking lead tainted mercury into my home or office gives me the wobblies. Alloy or compounds are more dangerous than elemental mercury, and fumes are really problematic.

This is all generally speaking. It's a l so true that mercury was used in a lot of medicines and boy, was that a mistake.
 
I was shooting Lead in an old Ruger 44 carbine of mine. I shot a JHP to clean it out and the muzzle split and peeled like a banana.

Some old collector said that is all too common and there are no old Ruger 44 mag barrels left. We had to make one by drilling a gas hole and welding a gas block onto a 44 barrel blank.
 
That could happen to a lot of barrels that are too thinker have weaker steel. If you plate the barrel so badly that you can't even see the lands you'll have over one hundredth taken off of the bore. A tapered bullet going to have to deform to push through, but the other possibility is that it could loosen that lead and push some out ahead of itself..it's already oversized, and picks up a little more as it pushes out through that undersized bore.

Very unlikely, imo, except in extreme cases. Personally, I've never seen a blown barrel.
 
In my 357 mag I shoot 100 hard cast 38 special followed by 50 357mag each week. Someone at the range told me that by shooting the jacketed bullets after the hard cast that the harder jacketed bullets will clean out some of the lead residue left by the hard cast bullets. I have never heard anything like this before. Is there any truth to what he told me?
Click to expand...

I have heard that, to make sure I am welcome back I always respond with 'FANTASTIC'.

Picture this; lead in in the barrel, you chamber a jacketed bullet and pull the trigger. And then I ask; "How fast do you think that lead can get out of the barrel before the jacketed bullet runs over it?" Had I been at the range I would have suggested you shoot the jacketed bullets first then shoot the lead.

I have two complete slides for three of my SA pistols. I shoot lead then change the slide. I do not like the ideal of anything being in the barrel I pull the trigger. If it has weight and takes up space is matter. All I want in my barrels is air. Air is fluid, air flows and air can be compressed.

F. Guffey
 
And then, there are those that seat the bullet backwards. I do not seat bullets backwards for the purpose of cleaning the barrel. And there are times I find it necessary to lie. I was asked if I had mercury that could be used for removing lead; I said no.

F. Guffey
 
I have read this whole post and in the Lyman cast book 3rd ed.,on page 94,it say you can remove the lead barrel in 2 ways, one is to shoot jacket bullets and the other is by scrub it out.I had my 44mag lead up from factory lead rounds and it started to shoot bad and then check out the barrel and it had lead up bad.I had recheck my book, I stated and did the jacket bullet and it clean it out to the point that I just had to clean the cooper out.Then i cast my own boolits and I do not have the leading like I did with the factory rounds. Like was stated, you match the alloy and size and charge to what you are shooting and you will not have a problem with leading, also use a lube that will match for what you are shooting.
 
Yeah, it's an old idea. It took them awhile to figure out it could also blow up a gun, as Clark described. It's because they didn't have convenient ways to test pressures back then. Now you can glue a strain gauge to a barrel and see what's actually happening, and it often isn't pretty.

Regarding bullets that don't lead, go to the Bullet Casting sub-forum linked to at the top of this forum's page and read the thread on powder coating bullets.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top